>RADO, 
Rocky    iVlountams, 

MAM  MOT' H    CAVu. 


j;^H4uiri«»e J  ^^^rHlf^lB!il« « 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/detaileddescriptOOgausrich 


Detailed    Desci^iption 


OF 


The  Scenes  and  Incidents 


CONNECTED  WITH 


A  Trip  through  the  Mountains 
and  Parks  of 

COLORADO, 

AS   ACCOMPLISHED   BV 

H.  B.  B.  STAPLER,  and  HARRY  T.  CAUSE. 

July  21 — August  20. 

1871. 


JAMES  i  WEBB,    PRIXTERS,    WILMIXGTOX,   DEL. 


i^den^ea  /o 


TO 

MY  SISTER  HELEN, 

THE   BRIGHT   SUN-SPOT   IN   OUR    HOME   CIRCLE, 

'       THE  JOY  OF  PARENTS 

AND   THE   PRIDE   OF  BROTHERS, 

THIS   LITTLE   WORK   IS   AFFECTIONATELY 

INSCRIBED 

BY 

THE     AUTHOR. 


CONTENTS, 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  Start. —  The  Pennsylvania  Central. —  The  Prairies. —  The 
Garden  City. —  The  Boulevards. — A  Mob  Fight. —  North- 
Shore  Drive. —  The  Water  Works. — Enterprise  of  Chicago. 

—  The  Ride  through  Illinois.  —  The  Missouri  River. — 
Council  Bluffs  and  Omaha.  1 3 

CHAPTER    II. 

Chickasaw  Indians.  —  Line  of  Cultivation. — A  Storm  on  the 
Plains.  —  Effects  of  the  Wind.  — Pawnee  Indians.  —  Their 
Costume. — An  Instance  of  Stoicism. — Platte  Valley  Bottom. 

—  A  Western  '^  Happy  Family.'' — Cheyefme.  —  Denver. — 
The  First  View  of  the  Mountains. — Farming  in  Colorado. 
— Entering  the  Mountains. — Passing  the  Range.  31 

CHAPTER    III. 
Idaho. — Its  Springs. —  The  Georgetown  Valley. — Georgetoivn. — 
Character  of  its  hihabitants. —  The  A  scent  of  Grey  s  Peak. 

—  The  View  fi'om  the  Summit. — A  Storm  among  the  Moun- 
tains. —  The  Descent.  5' 


viii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    IV. 

The  Burleigh  Tunnel. — Machine  Drilling. —  The  Compositio7i  of 
the  Silver  Ore. —  The  Reduction  Process. — Our  Mountain 
Party.— Scenery  along  the  New  Trail.— Crossing  the  Range. 
—  The  First  Mountain  Rabbit. — Lost  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  — A  Comic  Seme —  The  Head  of  the  Platte.  — 
A  710 1 her  Funny  Adventure. —  The  Ride  to  Hep  bom's 
Ranch.  65 

CHAPTER    V. 

,  The  Fronticrman' s  Home. — Once  more  iyi  the  Saddle. — Enter- 
^  ing  South  Park. —  The  Hill  of  the  Espaiiola. — Fair  Play. — 

The  "  Comfortable'  Room. — Our  Mountain  Outfit. —  The 
Ride  to  Horse  Shoe  Gulch. — First  indications  of  Master 
''  Brui?i.'' — The  First  Buck. — A  novel  Bear  Trap. —  The 
Forest  07i  Fire. — A  cold  Morning  Hu7it. —  Up  the  Valley 
again. —  The  Camp.  81 

CHAPTER    VI. 

Stalki7ig  Antelope. —  Dinner  on  the  ''Divide.'' — The  Horse  Shoe 
«  Basi7t. — Stinset  from  the  Divide. — Atmospheric  Tempera- 

ture on  the  Mount  ai7is. —  The  Ascent  of  ''Silver  Heels'' — 
View  fro77i  the  Summit.  —  Mountain.  —  Quail  Shooting. — 
Master  Brui7i  at  Camp. — Farewell  to  Camp  Life.  99 

CHAPTER  VII. 

/;/  Fair  Play  Again. —  Three  of  Colorado's  Great  Me7i. —  The 
Baker  s  Ranche  Imposition. — A    Characteristic  Speech. — 


CONTENTS.  ix 

Miss  Elegance. —  The  View  from  the  Summit  of  the  Raftge. 
One  Link  in  the  Chain  of  Western  Life. —  The  Ride  down 
Turkey  Creek  Canon. — Denver  once  more.  1 1 5 

CHAPTER    VIII. 

The  Real  Plaiiis  of  the  West.— The  First  Buffaloes.— The 
Plains  on  Fire. — A  Buffalo  on  the  Track. — Kansas  City. 
—  The  Ride  from  Cave  City  to  Mammoth  Cave. — Mammoth 
Cave  and  its  Surroundings. —  Temperature  of  its  Atmos- 
phere. 127 

CHAPTER    IX. 

White's  Cave. — Contrast  of  expcrie7ice  within  and  without. — 
Entering  the  Mammoth  Cave. —  The  Wonders  wit hiii.     140 

CHAPTER    X. 

The  Giant's  Coffin. —  The  wooden  Bowl  Cave. —  The  Side  Sad- 
dle Pit  and  Minerva! s  Dome.—  The  Bridge  of  Sighs. —  The 
Bottomless  Pit. —  The  Fat  Man's  Misery, —  The  River  Styx. 
— Music  on  Echo  River. —  The  Eyeless  Fish.  151 

CHAPTER   XI. 

A  Subterranean  Concert  Room. —  The  Highest  Dome  in  the 
Cave. —  77^!^  Fly  Chamber. — Marthas  Vineyard. — A  Ro- 
majitic  Meal. —  The  Last  Rose  of  Summer,  {before  last.) — 
Diamond  Grotto. — An  Undergroimd  Moufitain. —  The  End 
of  the  Cave  and  the  Maelstrom. — Music  on  Echo  River. — 
Once  More  Above  Ground.  169 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    XII. 

The  Short  or  Extra  Route. —  The  Giant  Group. —  The  Star 
Chamber. —  The  Greatest  Natural  TuJinel  ifi  the  World. — 
Chief  City. —  The  Labyrinth  and  Gorin's  Dome. — Entering 
Pensacola  Avenue. —  The  Great  Crossing. —  The  Trip  to 
Mammoth  Dome. — Corinthian  Columns. — Roaring  River. 
The  New  Discovery. —  The  Gothic  A  rcade.  1 8 1 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

A  Curious  Mumfny. —  The  First  Echo. — Register  Room, — 
"  Where  there's  a  Will,  there  s  a  Way!' — A  Love  Story 
founded  on  Fact. —  Vulcan's  Smithy  and  Napoleon's  Breast- 
works.—  The  Lover s  Leap. — Lake  Purity. — Adieu  to  the 
Mammoth  Cave. — Once  More  in  Louisville. —  The  Queen  City 
of  the  West. — A  Cincinnati  Park. — An  Odd  Tight  Rope 
Performance. —  The  Ride  over  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio. 
— A  lone. —  The  Last  A  dventure. — Home  at  Last.  1 93 


PREFACE 


In  publishing  this  Journal,  I  have  acted  from  two 
motives,  namely  ;  to  accommodate  the  many  friends  who 
have  kindly  expressed  a  desire  to  peruse  it,  and  to  pre- 
serve, for  future  retrospection,  my  impressions  of  the 
sights  and  scenes  connected  with  our  trip,  that  merits  to  be 
recorded  in  even  a  more  elaborate  and  detailed  manner. 

It  is  not  the  result  I  had  wished  to  produce;  there 
may  be  much  wanting  both  in  description  and  narration, 
but  I  trust,  for  any  appreciation  of  which  it  may  be 
worthy,  in  a  measure  to  personal  interest,  for  only  those 
who  are  our  friends  will  care  to  know  what  concerns  us. 

From  many  reasons  this  little  work  has  been  rather 
hastily  compiled,  which  may  account  for  an  occasional 
over-sight  which  otherwise  might  have  been  corrected. 

I  have  dwelt  at  length  upon  the  description  of  Mam- 
moth Cave,  because,  to  any  of  those  who  may  read  these 
pages,  and  who  may  now  contemplate,  or  in  future  ac- 
complish the  trip  through  it,  it  may  prove  of  service  in 


Xll  PREFACE. 

showing  them  just  what  to  expect,  and  so  enable  them  to 
lay  their  plans,  for  sight-seeing,  to  better  advantage. 

One  other  point  before  I  close. 

I  have  spoken,  perhaps,  in  too  severe  a  manner  of 
the  farming  advantages  of  Colorado,  but  have  done  so 
in  the  hope  of  disabusing  any  honest  minds  of  the  er- 
roneous impressions  of  this  country  to  be  derived  from 
most  of  the  extravagant  colorings  of  travelers,  who  have 
written  books  to  sell  or  to  please.  But  I  am  in  doubt 
whether  to  express  the  opinion  that  more  good  might  be 
done  by  underrating  a  country,  so  that  an  agreeable 
surprise  awaits  those  who  visit  it,  or  by  overrating  it 
and  disappointing  and  vexing  all  tourists.  But  as  I 
hesitate,  the  bell  taps,  the  curtain  rises,  and  the  play 
begins. 


JOURNAL 

Of  a  Summer  Trip  to  Colorado  and  the 
Rocky  Mountains. 


CHAPTER    I. 

The  Start. —  The  Pennsylvania  Ceittral. —  The  Prairies. —  The 
Garden  City. —  The  Boulevards. — A  Mob  Fight. —  North- 
Shore  Drive. —  The  Water  Works. — Enterprise  of  Chicago. 
—  TJie  Ride  through  Illijtois.  —  TJie  Missouri  River. — 
Council  Bluff s  and  Omaha. 

Bright  and  early,  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-first  of 
July,  1 87 1,  we  were  called,  to  prepare  for  our  start  which  was 
to  take  place  at  ten  minutes  past  eight  o'clock.  At  the  dfepot 
we  met  several  of  our  friends  who  had  kindly  come  down  to 
see  us  off.  We  had  enjoyed  but  a  few  moments  pleasant  con- 
versation, when  the  bell  sounded  and  we  stepped  on  board 
the  train.  The  last  we  saw  of  them,  was  a  number  of  hand- 
kerchiefs and  hats  waving  in  the  air.  We  reached  Philadel- 
phia at  9:30  A.  M.,  so  that  we  had  ample  time,  and,  in  fact, 
more  than  was  sufficient  to  accomplish  several  errands  in 
the  city.  This  duty  over,  we  met,  according  to  agreement, 
at  the  West  Philadelphia  ddpot,  and,  after  a  hearty  dinner, 
embarked  for  the  West,  full  of  bright  anticipations  for  the 
future  and  our  trip. 


14  THP:    PENNSYLVANIA   CENTRAL. 

We  both  having  traversed  this  section  of  country  many 
times  previous,  found  no  special  pleasure  in  gazing  through 
the  car  window,  so  entertained  ourselves  in  a  much  more 
agreeable  manner  by  discussing  our  plans  and  arranging  many 
little  points  connected  with  our  trip.  As  we  proceeded, 
conversation  flagged  and  we  betook  ourselves  to  books  and 
papers  to  beguile  the  time.  When  we  wearied  of  reading, 
we  slept  ;  when  tired  of  sleeping,  read  again.  In  this  manner 
all  of  Friday  afternoon  was  passed.  In  the  evening  at  about 
9:5^Hve  reached  Altoona  and  had  a  good,  substantial  supper, 
after  which,  as  the  cars  rattled  away  again,  we  composed 
ourselves  for  the  night,  as  vye  were  already  a  little  fatigued 
by  the  monotony  of  the  ride.  During  the  night,  unfortunately, 
we  passed  through  the  most  beautiful  portion  of  the  country, 
crossing  the  Alleghanies  a  little  west  of  Altoona. 

In  the  morning  we  were  awakened  by  the  bustle  and  con- 
fusion about  us,  for  the  train  had  just  stopped  at  a  station, 
ninety  miles  beyond  Pittsburg.  After  enjoying  a  second  nap, 
we  rose,  washed  and  arranged  our  toilet,  then  sauntered  about 
listlessly,  sometimes  standing  in  the  vestibule  of  the  Pullman 
car,  and  at  others,  seating  ourselves  upon  the  railed-in  plat- 
forms to  observe  the  points  of  interest  which  we  passed. 

At  nine  o'clock  we  reached  Crestline  where  we  break- 
fasted ;  then  returned  to  the  car  and  read,  slept  and  talked 
for  the  remainder  of  the  morning. 

At  three  o'clock  we  dined  at  Ft.  Wayne  and  passed  the 
afternoon  in  precisely  the  same  manner  as  we  had  done  the 
fore  part  of  the  day.  Soon  after  dinner  we  began  to  traverse 
the  prairies  which  surround  Chicago  for  many  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. This  was  a  new  experience  to  us  and  we  enjoyed 
it  with  a  zest.  Almost  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  was 
nothing   but    a    broad,   flat    expanse   of  waving  grass,    upon 


THE   GARDEN   CITY.  1 5 

which,    we  noticed,  here  and  there,    herds  of  cattle  quietly- 
grazing. 

At  six  o'clock  P.  M.,  we  approached  the  Garden  City, 
which,  at  first  sight,  was  only  visible  by  a  long,  low  line  of 
black  smoke  hanging  just  above  the  horizon.  Soon,  objects 
became  more  distinct,  and  before  we  had  ridden  another  half- 
hour,  we  could  easily  discern  the  spires  and  smoke-stacks  of 
the  city.  We  arrived  at  the  depot  at  6:42  and  took  a  bus  up 
to  the  Sherman  House.  Having  obtained  good  rooms,  we  re- 
paired thither  and  indulged  in  sundry  ablutionary  processes, 
which  very  materially  contributed  to  the  respectability  of  our 
appearance.  Having  discussed  a  well-timed  supper  we  ad- 
journed to  the  reading  room  in  order  to  peruse  the  various 
periodicals  and  newspapers.  I  sat  down  to  write  some  letters, 
but  had  just  begun,  when  my  friend  Stapler  came  and  dragged 
me  off  for  a  moonlight  walk.  We  strolled  down  to  the  shore 
of  the  lake  and  seating  ourselves  upon  some  piles  of  lumber  that 
strewed  the  wharf,  enjoyed  the  beautiful  surroundings.  On 
one  side  we  looked  out  upon  that  broad  and  apparently  limit- 
less expanse  of  waters,  reflecting  from  a  thousand  wave-tops 
the  flood  of  soft  moonlight  that  poured  down  upon  it,  only 
dispersing  the  darkness  sufficiently  to  cast  a  wierd  indistinct- 
ness upon  the  surrounding  objects.  In  this  mysterious  light, 
a  train  of  cars  became  a  long,  dense  line  of  soldiers  marching 
with  wonderful  order  ;  a  lamp-post  became  a  tall  man  with  a 
large  head,  and  the  vast  city  lying  before  us  seemed  like  some 
huge,  breathing  creature  with  a  hundred  thousand  eyes.  We 
lingered  long  to  enjoy  these  sights  which  were  so  new  to  us, 
but  at  length,  feeling  somewhat  chilled  by  the  cool  breeze 
from  the  lake,  we  retraced  our  steps  to  the  hotel,  where  in 
a  very  short  time  we  were  dreaming  a  continuation  of  the 
evening's  walk. 


l6  THE   GARDEN   CITY. 

We  arose  on  Sunday  morning  rather  late,  as  might  have 
been  expected,  but  not  too  much  so  to  attend  divine  ser- 
vice held  in  the  large  Methodist  Church  in  Chicago.  It  is 
a  beautiful  building,  constructed  upon  the  Gothic  style  of 
architecture,  with  two  spires,  which  are  finished  a  la  Cath- 
edral de  Milan.  The  material  used  in  this  building,  in  common 
with  most  of  the  other  public  edifices  in  the  city,  deserves  a 
word  of  explanation.  It  consists  of  a  soft,  light  colored  stone 
which  is  brought  from  the  North,  somewhere,  I  believe,  near 
the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan  at  its  upper  extremity.  It  is  al- 
most cream  colored,  but  gradually  wears  darker  with  age  and 
exposure.  As  no  considerable  amount  of  stone  can  be  pro- 
cured directly  about  the  city,  the  surrounding  section  of 
country  being  nothing  more  than  a  flat  prairie,  all  the  build- 
ing stone  is  transported  from  a  distance  to  meet  the  ever 
increasing  demand.  After  church,  as  we  were  returning  to 
the  hotel,  who  should  we  meet  bnt  Grover,  of  Yale,  in  Stap- 
ler's class,  and  a  mighty  good  fellow.  He,  of  course,  was  both 
surprised  and  pleased  to  see  us  and  said  he  would  call  around 
after  dinner  and  show  us  the  city.  According  to  agreement 
he  was  on  hand  promptly  at  the  hour  appointed,  and  after 
spending  an  hour  in  pleasant  conversation,  a  walk  was  pro- 
posed and  readily  assented  to.  He  escorted  us  through  the 
principal  streets  immediately  adjoining  the  hotel,  pointing 
out  the  various  public  buildings  and  other  objects  of  interest, 
until  at  last  we  found  ourselves  out  on  Michigan  Avenue, 
which  runs  directly  along  the  lake-shore,  occupying,  conse- 
quently, a  most  beautiful  site.  Between  it  and  the  water, 
there  is  stretching  along  for  some  distance,  a  series  of  lawns 
where  a  great  number  of  people  usually  congregate  to  enjoy 
a  quiet  Sunday  afternoon  ;  but  unfortunately,  being  mostly  of 
the  laboring  classes,  they  do  not  enhance  the  pleasure  of  the 
surroundings.     Here  we  saw  quite  a  crowd  assembled  and  ap- 


THE   GARDEN   CITY.  I7 

parently  engrossed  in  some  excitement.  Presently  we  saw 
everybody  running  toward  the  spot,  so  we  followed  suite  and 
after  climbing  up  on  the  backs  of  some  benches,  from  which 
high  station  we  could  command  a  good  view  over  the  heads 
of  the  crowd,  we  ascertained  that  there  was  a  mob-fight  in 
full  blast,  sustained  on  one  side  principally  by  a  big  Dutchman 
in  his  shirt  sleeves.  He  was  a  powerful  man  and  seemed  fully 
competent  to  withstand  the  combined  attacks  of  his  many 
assailants  ;  but  at  last  numbers  conquered  and  he  was  obliged 
to  run.  As  you  may  well  imagine  there  was  a  general 
stampede.  We  joined  the  hurrying  crowds,  for  it  was  right  in 
the  direction  in  which  we  would  have  gone,  even  had  we  been 
alone.  He  ran  up  Michigan  Avenue,  along  fourteenth  street 
to  Wabash  Avenue,  and  turned  down  ;  but  having  eluded  his 
pursuers  for  sometime,  they  overtook  and  arrested  him  some- 
where in  eighteenth  street. 

As  Grover  had  invited  us  to  take  tea  with  him,  we  took  a 
bus  and  after  riding  for  some  distance  toward  the  southside, 
we  alighted  before  a  large  sand-stone  front  building  with  a 
flight  of  wide  stone  steps  leading  up  to  the  front  piazza. 
There  was  a  beautiful  lawn  extending  from  the  house  to 
the  avenue  and  covered  with  large  trees,  in  all,  making  a 
very  aristocratic  looking  establishment.  We  sat  upon  the 
stoop  for  sometime,  chatting  pleasantly,  when  Mr.  Grover 
came  down  and  joined  us.  He  is  a  very  handsome  man, 
gentlemanly,  with  refined  manners  and  courtly  address. 
He  is  the  principal  of  a  young  ladies'  boarding  school  in 
Chicago.  Presently  we  adjourned  to  the  supper-room  where 
we  met  our  friend  Grover's  maiden  aunt,  who  proved  to  be  a 
very  cultivated  and  entertaining  lady.  After  tea  we  spent  an 
hour  very  pleasantly  in  the  parlor. 

After  having  passed  a  most  agreeable  evening  or  portion 
of  an  evening  with  them,  Grover  proposed  taking  us  over  to 


1 8  THE   GARDEN   CITY. 

the  North  side  to  hear  the  minister  at  St.  James'  Episcopal 
Church.  Right  here  let  me  explain  this  term  "North  Side". 
Chicago  is  divided  into  four  grand  divisions,  viz  ;  the  ''  Center," 
South  Side,  West  Side  and  North  Side,  meaning  those  parts 
of  the  city  enclosed,  or  bounded  by  the  different  branches  of 
the  Chicago  River. 

Upon  leaving  Mr  Grover's  residence,  we  rode  in  a  bus 
as  far  as  the  river  where  we  alighted  and  were  compelled 
to  wait  some  time  for  the  closing  of  the  draw-bridge  that 
spanned  the  stream.  St.  James'  Church  is  situated  but  a 
short  distance  from  the  water,  so  we  accomplished  the  remain- 
er  of  the  crossing  on  foot.  We  enjoyed  the  service  exceed- 
ingly, for  not  only  did  we  hear  a  good  sermon  but  most  exqui- 
site singing.     This  choir  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  city. 

After  service  we  stepped  over  to  see  that  thoroughly 
German  institution  called  the  "Turne  Halle"  or  in  English 
Turner's  Hall.  We  entered  the  imposing  looking  building 
by  a  broad  staircase,  purchased  our  tickets  and  passed  into 
the  audience  chamber  of  the  Hall.  Strains  of  magnificent 
music  by  a  full  orchestra,  greeted  us  as  we  were  ushered. 
On  the  stage',  sat  the  musicians  arranged  as  in  the  Theo. 
Thomas  Concert.  In  their  execution  they  are  said  to  rival 
the  former  troupe,  and  we  certainly  concur  in  this  opinion 
after  hearing  their  performance  that  evening.  Seated  at 
the  small  tables  that  covered  the  floor  of  the  house,  were 
the  Germans,  with  their  wives,  daughters  and  innumerable 
children,  all  drinking  beer.  It  was  no  uncommon  sight  to 
see  a  baby  who  could  not  yet  stand  alone,  sipping  beer 
from  a  glass,  held  to  its  little  lips  by  its  mother.  These 
children  drink  before  they  talk.  It  would  not  express  the 
idea  to  say  that  the  room  was  full.  It  was  literally  packed  ! 
One   could   scarcely  crowd   through   the  aisles   between   the 


THE  BOULEVARDS.  I9 

rows  of  tables.  Even  upon  the  side  of  the  stage  it  was  a 
difficult  matter  to  obtain  seats.  We  enjoyed  this  grand 
musical  treat,  the  programme  of  which  I  carried  away  with 
me  as  a  **  memorabil,"  until  ten  o'clock,  when  there  was 
a  general  scattering.  The  Germans  never  keep  such  en- 
tertainments open  to  a  late  hour  for  they  are  very  temper- 
ate in  everything  but  beer.  I  have  no  recollection  of  having 
ever  seen  a  more  orderly  and  less  noisy  assemblage  of  people 
any  where.  They  seemed  to  be  perfectly  happy  to  sit  and 
sip  beer  and  listen  to  good  music.  This  appeared  to  be  their 
idea  of  earthly  bliss.  After  the  performers  left  the  stage, 
we  walked  back  to  the  hotel  where  we  bade  our  kind  friend 
good  night. 

On  the  following  morning  after  making  some  arrange- 
ments previous  to,  and  concerning,  our  departure,  and  visiting 
the  ticket  office  of  the  Chicago  and  North-Western  Rail 
Road,  we  ordered  a  carriage  and  drove  down  to  Grover's, 
where,  according  to  our  engagement,  he  was  awaiting  us. 
We  first  rode  along  Michigan  Avenue  to  obtain  a  good 
view  of  the  lake  ;  then  through  Calumet  Avenue  to  the 
tomb  of  Stephen  A.  Douglass,  which  is  situated  upon  the 
summit  of  a  little  knoll  that  commands  an  uninterrupted  view 
of  the  lake,  as  well  as  the  country  for  miles  around  the  city. 
We  unanimously  declared  that  it  occupied  the  most  beau- 
tiful site  for  a  grave  of  any  that  we  had  ever  seen.  A 
magnificent  monument  is  in  course  of  erection,  which,  at 
present,  is  only  half  finished.  A  few  rods  from  the  grave 
there  stands  a  large  hotel  that  is  named  in  honor  of  this  illus- 
trious statesman  and  politician. 

Returning  to  the  carriage  we  drove  out  the  Boulevards 
which  is  a  splendidly   constructed,  and  wide  street  that  ex- 
tends around  the  entire  city,  joining  the  different,  distinct  divi- 
C 


20  THE    BOULEVARDS. 

sions.  It  is  laid  with  Nicholson's  pavement  throughout  its 
whole  length,  and  presents  a  very  gay  appearance  when  filled 
with  the  beautiful  summer  equipages  of  pleasure  seekers. 
Most  of  the  way  this  avenue  was  lined  on  either  side  by  elegant 
residences,  which  contributed  to  make  it  one  of  the  handsomest 
drives  in  the  West.  As  it  is  over  ten  miles  long,  it  occupied 
more  than  an  hour  to  accomplish  the  entire  distance.  We  re- 
turned by  South  Park  Avenue  and  turning  into  Wabash 
Avenue  arrived  at  the  hotel,  in  good  trim  for  the  excellent 
western  dinner  that  awaited  us. 

It  was  not  until  five  o'clock  that  we  adjourned  to  our 
rooms,  though  not  to  remain  long,  for  Grover,  who  had  order- 
ed a  carriage,  made  us  accept  of  its  use  ;  so  we  entered  ^nd 
drove  off  on  our  way  over  to  the  West  Side.  We  stopped 
for  a  particular  friend,  a  young  lawyer  named  Bartow,  who 
had  graduated  at  Yale  in  the  class  of  '69.  He  proved  to  be  a 
very  witty,  jolly  little  fellow,  and  kept  us  in  a  constant  laugh 
by  his  unexpected  remarks  and  sly  jokes.  He  was  the  life  of* 
the  party.  We  rode  out  through  the  LaSalle  street  tun- 
nel, under  the  river  and  then  into  the  West  Side  Park. 
This  is  the  smallest,  cutest  and  most  artistically  arranged 
park  I  ever  saw.  Rustic  bridges  and  summer  houses  on  all 
sides  ;  little  lakes  and  winding  rivulets,  sloping  lawns  and 
flower-covered  arbors  greeted  the  eye,  no  matter  in  which  di- 
rection we  looked.  Here  and  there  a  fountain  cast  up  a  tiny 
column  of  water,  under  which  white  swans  disported  them- 
selves, shaking  the  glittering  spray  from  their  snowy  plumage. 
Large  trees  towered  over  this  scene  of  loveliness,  casting  a 
pleasant  shade  over  all. 

We  stopped  the  horses  by  the  side  of  a  clear  sheet  of 
water,  and  watched  the  children  as  they  rowed  upon  its 
smooth  surface,    splashing    with  the  miniature  oars  in  their 


NORTH-SHORE   DRIVE.  21 

childish  delight.  From  this  charming  spot  we  recrossed  the 
river  to  the  center,  and  following  one  of  the  principal  business 
streets,  entered  the  North  Side  by  means  of  another  tunnel. 

In  passing  through  this  portion  of  the  city,  we  of  course 
saw  many  beautiful  buildings,  and  handsome  churches,  but  it 
would  be  both  unnecessary  and  tiresome  to  enter  into  a  de- 
tailed description  of  them  all,  so  I  will  pass  them  by,  with 
the  single  remark  that  they  are  a  credit  to  a  city  no  older 
than  Chicago,  and  indeed  would  prove  an  ornament  to  any 
Eastern  city.  Winding  through  the  cool,  inviting  avenues  of 
the  North  Side  Park,  we  thought,  after  all,  we  preferred  the 
sights  that  here  met  our  eyes,  to  those  that  we  had  seen  in 
other  parts  of  the  city,  not  excepting  the  West  Side  Park. 

Our  most  sanguine  expectations  were  more  than  realized 
when  we  drove  out  upon  the  North  Shore  Drive, as  it  is  called  ; 
for  beside  the  grand  view  of  the  lake  upon  one  side,  we  ob- 
tained on  the  other,  an  excellent  sight  of  the  Park,  even  to 
where  it  joins  the  prairies  beyond. 

The  surroundings  gave  us  an  idea  of  what  would  be  the 
effect  of  the  combination  of  the  ocean  with  Central  Park. 
The  drive  is  an  asphaltum-paved  avenue,  extending  for  almost 
two  miles  along  the  edge  of  the  beach,  and  terminating  at  its 
upper  extremity  in  a  gradual  curve,  which  sweeps  from  the 
water  around  a  narrow  neck  of  timber  jutting  out  from  the 
park,  and  joins  itself  in  the  Main  Drive,  within  a  hundred  yards 
of  its  point  of  starting.  This  lake  avenue  is  the  pride  of  Chi- 
cago, and  there  is  here  to  be  seen,  on  any  fine  afternoon,  the 
style  and  fashion  of  the  great  city,  attired  in  gala-dress  for 
this  impromptu  tournament. 

As  we  rode  along,  occasionally  ''speeding"  out  well- 
matched  pair  with  those  of  a  rival  for  the  turf,  we  noticed 
many  beautiful  ladies,  and  noble  looking  men.     All  seemed 


22  THE   WATER    WORKS. 

in  the  best  humor  possible,  and  everything  about  us  spoke  in 
language  plainer  than  words,  of  happiness  and  contentment. 
The  birds  sang  merrily,  and  the  waves  plashed  noisily  as  they 
broke  upon  the  pebbled  beach. 

Every  now  and  then,  turning  at  sound  of  pattering  hoofs 
from  behind,  we  would  catch  the  ringing  tones  of  a  woman's 
laugh,  and  see  a  beautiful  face,  flushed  with  the  excitement  of 
holding  the  fiery  steeds,  already  heated  by  the  race.  Who 
will  say  it  was  not  fun  to  enter  the  lists  with  such  a  charming 
rival  ?  Who  could  lag  behind  when  such  a  fair  sprite,  looking 
back  over  her  shoulder  with  a  merry  twinkle  in  her  eye,  shakes 
her  little  head  in  mock  defiance,  inviting  you  to  join  her  in  a 
race  ?  In  this  manner  w^  spent  two  short  hours,  when  it  be- 
gan to  grow  dark,  and  we  recollected  that  we  had  not  yet  ac- 
complished all  our  round  of  sight-seeing  ;  so  we  drove  at  once 
to  the  water-works  of  Chicago,  which  are  a  wonder  in  them- 
selves. We  saw  three  immense  engines  which  are  kept  work- 
ing unceasingly  to  supply  the  city  with  water,  pumped  out  of 
the  lake.  These  engines  are  situated  in  a  large  building,  con- 
structed expressly  for  their  accommodation.  There  is  a  two- 
mile  tunnel  running  out  under  the  lake,  and  through  which 
come  the  water-pipes.  At  the  outer  end  there  is  an  enormous 
"crib,"  which  is,  in  reality,  nothing  more  than  a  huge  funnel, 
extending  from  the  surface  down  into  the  tunnel,  and,  being 
provided  with  a  sort  of  wire  sieve  or  screen,  it  lets,  in  the  fresh, 
clean  water,  but  excludes  the  fish  and  other  impurities. 
These  engines  give  to  the  water  a  sufficient  impetus  to  cause 
it  to  flow  with  a  pretty  strong  stream  in  the  third  and  even 
fourth  story  of  every  house  in  the  city. 

Leaving  the  Water-Works,  we  took  another  airing  on 
Wabash  Avenue,  after  which  we  repaired  to  the  hotel,  where, 
after  some  pleasant  conversation,  we  bade  our  friends  fare- 


ENTERPRISE   OF   CHICAGO.  23 

well  and  turned  our  thoughts  toward  leaving,  which  we  did  at 
quarter  of  ten  o'clock  that  evening. 

We  had  purchased  our  berth  tickets  at  the  office,  so  that 
we  had  nothing  to  do  but  get  into  the  cars  and  go  to  sleep. 

Before  relating  the  incidents  of  Tuesday,  I  will  jot  down 
my  impressions  of  Chicago.  The  very  first  thing  we  heard 
on  Sunday  morning,  was  a  brass  band  in  full  blast,  marching 
down  the  street  at  the  head  of  a  procession  of  Dutchmen. 

Coming  home  from  Turner's  Hall  on  Sunday  night,  we 
counted  in  three  or  four  blocks,  on  only  one  side  of  the  street, 
sixty-seven  lager  beer  and  whiskey  shops,  all  open.  I  should 
say  that  at  least  a  third  of  all  the  stores  in  the  city  are  kept 
open  on  the  Sabbath.  Chicago  is  certainly  the  most  immoral 
place  that  I  have  any  knowledge  of,  and  yet  it  is  one  of  the 
most  handsome.  It  occupies  a  beautiful  site,  and  exhibits  a 
wonderful  enterprise.  Its  citizens  are  live  people.  The  city 
has  grown  one  hundred  and  ninety  thousand  inhabitants  in 
the  last  eleven  years,  which  startling  fact  is  not  only  an  in- 
dication of  its  success,  but  a  cause  of  its  vice. 

There  is  in  process  of  construction  a  tunnel  underneath 
the  city,  which  is  to  be  over  three  miles  in  length,  and  con- 
nect with  that  under  the  lake  ;  also,  there  is  building,  an  im- 
mense harbor  on  the  lake;  and  to  crown  all,  an  enterprise 
has  just  been  accomplished,  viz : — the  turning  of  the  waters 
of  the  Chicago  River  back  into  the  canal.  The  canal  alone 
cost  more  than  fifteen  millions  of  dollars.  The  reason  for 
turning  them  was  to  clear  the  river  of  the  filth  that  had  col- 
lected to  such  an  extent  as  to  breed  a  pestilence  unless 
removed.  They  first  built  the  canal,  then  constructed  an 
immense  coffer-dam  at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  After  all  was 
ready,  they  suddenly  admitted  the  waters  of  the  lake,  which 


24  THE   RIDE   THROUGH    H.LINOIS. 

rushed  in  with  such  tremendous  force  that  the  current  in  the 
Chicago  River  was  turned  in  its  very  bed,  and  has  since 
been  flowing  in  the  opposite  direction  into  the  canal. 

We  have  seen  some  magnificent  buildings  in  Chicago, 
and  there  is  evidently  great  wealth  there.  There  is  every 
advantage  and  room  for  improvement,  both  in  appearance 
and  extent,  as  there  is  nothing  but  a  flat  expanse  of  rich 
prairie  around  the  city  for  a  number  of  miles. 

The  only  thing  in  the  least  objectionable  in  the  climate  is 
the  sad  fact  that  the  beauty  of  the  young  ladies,  in  most  in- 
stances, fades  away  by  the  time  they  reach  the  age  of  twenty. 
But  enough  of  Chicago. 

The  very  first  thing  of  importance  that  happened  to  us 
on  Tuesday  morning,  was  the  breaking  of  our  fast,  which  we 
did  pretty  effectually  at  a  little  place  called  Martinsburg. 

The  ride  on  the  Chicago  and  North  Western  Rail  Road 
was  a  very  interesting  one,  for  the  country  through  which  we 
passed  combined,  in  so  pleasing  a  variety,  the  grandeur  of 
mountainous,  and  the  rural  charms  of  cultivated,  landscape, 
that  we  found  unceasing  pleasure  in  watching  the  panoramic 
view  from  the  car  window. 

This  section  of  country  is,  perhaps,  the  richest  in  the 
United  States.  On  the  prairies  of  Illinois,  and  especially  of 
Iowa,  the  grass  stands  to  the  hight  of  a  foot  and  a  half,  and, 
in  some  places,  even  two  feet.  But  it  was  not  until  we  cross- 
ed the  boundary  of  Illinois  that  we  entered  the  real  prairie- 
land  of  the  West.  On  either  side  nothing  was  visible  but  a 
rolling  ocean  of  grass,  with,  perhaps,  here  and  there  a  patch 
of  timber,  or  some  low  belt  of  willows  that  indicated  the 
course  of  a  stream  ;  and,  again,  as  a  background  to  this  picture 
we  beheld   long   ranges   of  hills   that   seemed   to    stand    like 


COUNCIL   BLUFFS   AND   OMAHA.  2$ 

frontier-guards  of  granite  protecting  this  charming  spot  from 
foes  of  wind  or  storm  ;  and  when  we  saw  the  last  beams  of 
the  setting  sun  tinging  with  gold  their  rock-bound  summits, 
they  seemed,  indeed,  as  an  immense  gilt  frame  encompassing 
this  natural  picture,  fresh  from  the  hand  of  the  Divine  Artist. 

Thus  the  unheeded  moments  lengthened  into  hours,  and 
before  we  were  aware  that  we  had  so  nearly  reached  our  des- 
tination for  the  day,  "Council  Bluffs,"  were  announced  by  a 
loud  voice  at  the  car  door.  Nevertheless  we  kept  our  seats, 
and  in  a  few  moments  were  whirled  away  again  toward  the 
river. 

It  is  a  mile  from  the  depot  to  the  landing.  Upon  our 
arrival,  we  found  the  ferry  boat  in  waiting. 

It  was  now  almost  half  past  eleven  at  night  and  we  were, 
consequently,  somewhat  tired  and  sleepy  ;  but  we  entertained 
no  thought  of  indulging  our  feelings,  for  we  were  obliged  to 
watch  our  carpet-bags  and  pockets  too  closely.  The  crowd 
of  men  (there  being  no  women  on  board)  told  us  plainly 
enough  by  their  appearance  to  beware  of  pickj)ockets.  I  do 
not  remember  ever  having  seen  a  more  villainous  looking 
company.  Men  of  all  descriptions,  all  occupations  (but  mostly 
of  the  lowest)  and  all  nations,  assembled  that  night  on  the 
boat.  The  majority  of  them  were  drunk  and  all  looked  like 
thieves  and  blacklegs.  They  were  not  the  most  pleasant 
companions,  but  we  could  not  choose  our  associates  just  then, 
so  had  to  content  ourselves  as  we  were,  and  keep  our  eyes 
open.  To  add  a  spice  to  the  situation,  we  were  obliged  to 
wait  for  the  arrival  of  the  Chicago  and  Rock  Island  R.  R. 
train  which  was  a  little  late,  and  then  for  the  Chicago,  Bur- 
lington and  Quincy  R.  R.  train  which  did  not  make  its  ap- 
pearance for  almost  an  hour.  Everything  was  dark,  dismal 
and  dirty  ;  vile  odors  from  the  boat  and  river-bed,  viler  con- 


26  COUNCIL   BLUFFS   AND   OMAHA. 

versation  from  the  other  passengers,  of  whom  stage  drivers 
formed  a  large  proportion,  and  vilest  atmosphere  both  with- 
in and  without  the  densely  crowded  cabin.  Physical  dark- 
ness reigned  outside,  and  mental, moral  and  spiritual  darkness 
inside.  The  stream  of  foul  blasphemy  that  flowed  within  the 
boat,  was  only  equaled  in  offensiveness  by  its  counterpart,  the 
Missouri  river,  without.  It  was  scarcely  a  relief  to  step  from 
such  a  suffocating  atmosphere  into  the  open  air, — for  here 
too,  the  nostril  wasconstantly  offended  by  the  fetid  miasmas 
that  arose  from  the  mud  flats  on  either  side  of  the  river. 
All  was  disagreeable.  If  we  touched  our  faces,  they  felt 
cold  and  clammy,  our  skin  was  covered  with  a  greasy  dew 
that  in  reality  was  the  exhalation  of  moisture  from  the 
water.  A  fog  hung  along  the  banks,  or  rather  mud  land- 
ings, and  men  walking  upon  the  shore,  but  a  few  yards 
distant,  assumed  wierd  proportions.  We  have  no  pleasant 
recollections   of  the   Missouri   River. 

After  steaming  across,  which  occupied  about  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  we  landed  at  Omaha  on  a  low,  mud  bank,  there  being 
no  wharves,  and  after  being  jostled  about  by  a  crowd  of  ani- 
mals commonly  called  men,  and  carrying  on  a  little  war 
against  them  with  our  boots  and  elbows  as  our  weapons,  we 
found  ourselves  really  on  terra  firma.  It  was  not  until  after 
having  stumbled  about  in  the  mud  and  filth,  and  having  our 
ears  almost  cracked  by  the  incessant  yelling  and  whooping  of 
hotel  names,  that  we  at  last  reached  the  bus,  which  was  to 
convey  us  to  the  Wyoming  House.  This  is  a  beautiful  name, 
but  it  merely  serves  to  delude  poor  travelers  like  ourselves, 
who  have  never  been  to  Omaha,  and  are  not  acquainted  with 
the  merits  of  the  different  hotels.  The  stage-driver,  wherever 
he  may  be,  for  we  cannot  see  him,  cracks  his  whip  which 
sounds  more  like  a  dull  "thud"  than  a  sharp  snap,  on  the 


COUNCIL  BLUFFS  AND  OMAHA.  27 

damp  and  heavy  atmosphere  ;  and  there  is  a  jerk,  a  jolt,  and 
a  straining  of  axles  and  we  are  thumping  and  tumbling  about 
the  inside  of  the  vehicle  after  the  manner  of  experienced  in- 
ebriates. It  is  impossible  to  hold  your  carpet-bags  between 
your  feet  ;  they  are  constantly  on  somebody's  toes,  which,  of 
course,  causes  a  little  pleasantry  between  said  individual  and 
yourself  You  are,  innocently,  about  to  attempt  a  glance 
through  the  glass  window,  when  bump  !  goes  your  nose  against 
the  pane.  While  in  your  well-meant  endeavors  to  allay  the 
painful  sensation  by  a  little  rubbing,  your  neighbor  accidental- 
ly hits  your  elbow  with  his  nose  ;  then  there  is  more  pleasant- 
ry. You  try  to  bow  your  apology  when  off  goes  your  hat  into 
his  very  face,  and  in  your  excited  endeavors  to  recover  it  from 
the  floor,  the  stage  gives  a  sudden  lurch  and  you  are  sent 
sprawling  into  the  arms  of  the  man  opposite,  knocking  his 
hat  off  and  tramping  on  his  toes  at  the  same  time.  Then 
there  ensues  a  scene  of  indescribable  confusion  which  is  only 
brought  to  an  end  by  our  opportune  arrival  at  the  top  of  the 
hill.  At  one  moment  the  stage  leans  over  as  if  it  were  about 
to  capsize,  and  at  the  next,  one  end  sinks  and  we  go  whirling 
down  a  steep  descent  which  gives  one  a  pleasant  "sinking" 
sensation.  I  never  knew  a  road  of  two  miles  length  have  so 
many  turns  and  ruts.  Imagine  our  feelings  when  we  alighted 
before  a  little  brick  building  with  rough,  board  floors  which 
bent  and  rattled  under  the  foot,  and  a  reception  room  that 
was  more  suitable  for  the  reception  of  the  stage  horses  than 
passengers. 

We  registered  (.^)  our  names — yes,  ''registered.''  I 
guess  this  is  a  good  word  here  ; — it  means  scribbling  them 
in  a  big,  greasy  book,  with  black  finger-marks  all  over  the 
page.  We  were  now  waited  upon  by  a  sneaky  blackman, 
who  mildly  suggested  that  he  possibly  might  show  us  our 
D 


28  COUNCIL   BLUFFS   AND   OMAHA. 

rooms.  Without  waiting  even  long  enough  to  indulge  in  a 
hearty  laugh  at  his  expense,  we  assented  to  this  meek  sug- 
gestion and  followed  our  sable  ghost  up  a  winding  stairway 
that  looked  as  if  it  ought  to  lead  the  other  way,  until  we  stood 
in  a  corridor  which  struck  us  at  once  as  being  the  very  place 
for  a  ghost  story.  Trudging  along  this  hall  we  soon  arrived 
at  a  mysterious  looking  door,  that  had  we  been  alone  we  would 
not  have  ventured  to  open.  We  were  ushered  into  a  room. 
I  will  merely  call  it  a  room,  in  want  of  a  more  appropriate 
name,  and  not  attempt  a  description,  but  leave  it  to  your 
imagination  to  picture  it  in  exact  accordance  with  its  sur- 
roundings. I  hope  your  imagination  is  a  vivid  one,  as  other- 
wise you  will  not  do  it  justice,  or  rather  the  injustice  it  merited. 
We  slept.  On  Wednesday  morning  we  breakfasted  in  the 
aforesaid  human  den,  with  feelings  akin  to  pity  for  the  poor 
inhabitants  of  a  town  of  which  this  was  the  best  hotel.  It 
is  a  question  with  me  whether  it  would  not  be  more  advis- 
able to  erect  some  twenty  or  thirty  ordinary  sized  tents  in- 
stead of  putting  up  such  a  building,  but  we  cannot  have  re- 
course to  the  original  builders,  for  they,  poor  creatures,  must 
long  since  have  died  (from  famine).  The  tent  plan  would  be 
desirable,  at  least  for  two  reasons  ;  viz  :  cheapness  and  ventila- 
tion, other  things  remaining  the  same. 

At  nine  o'clock  we  started  out  on  a  walk  of  inspection, 
but  returned  soon  afterward  from  the  want  of  something 
to  inspect.  We  now  went  across  the  street  to  the  offices 
of  the  Union  Pacific  Rail  Road,  to  call  upon  Mr.  T.  E. 
Sickels,  the  superintendent,  but  as  he  had  not  yet  arrived, 
we  sauntered  about  that  dried-up  little  place,  resembling 
rather  a  lifeless,  sun-scorched  country  village,  than  a  rail- 
way center,  until  we  were  in  a  condition  anything  but  com- 
fortable, in  a  humor  anything  but' amiable,   and  about  ready 


COUNCIL   BLUFFS   AND   OMAHA.  29 

to  embark  anywhere,  even  though  it  be  to  theSahara  Des- 
ert,— which  could'nt  be  much  worse.  On  again  going  to 
the  offices,  we  met  Mr.  Sickels  and  enjoyed  quite  a  pleasant 
chat  with  him.  He  was  very  kind,  and  gave  us  some  useful 
information  concerning  the  best  course  to  be  pursued  after 
reaching  Denver. 


CHAPTER     II. 

Chickasaw  Indians.  —  Line  of  Cultivation. — A  Storm  oti  the 
Plains.  —  Effects  of  the  Wind.  —  Pawnee  Indians.  —  Their 
Costume. — An  Instance  of  Stoicism. — Platte  Valley  Bottom. 
—  A  Western  "-Happy  Family!^ — Cheyenne.  —  Denver. — 
The  First  View  of  the  Mountains. — Farming  in  Colorado. 
— Entering  the  Mountains. — Passing  the  Range. 

At  11:30  A.  M.,  we  stepped  on  board  the  train  for  the 
far  West,  which,  as  yet,  was  but  a  mythical  country,  but  full 
of  interest.  As  a  harbinger  of  what  we  might  expect,  we 
saw  several  Chickasaw  Indians  hanging  around  the  cars,  beg- 
ging, loafing,  or  stealing,  we  could'nt  decide  which.  They 
were  a  degraded  looking  set,  with  just  enough  clothing  to 
cover  them  scantily  ;  their  faces  tattooed  and  their  hair  dang- 
ling down  about  their  shoulders,  and  their  eyes  full  of  the 

Without  a  single  exception  they  wore  a  savage,  hang-dog 
expression  of  countenance.  I  will  say,  however,  that  we 
should  not  take  these  Indians  as  the  representatives  of 
the  race,  for  I  believe  that  the  red  man,  in  his  wild,  un- 
tutored state,  living  in  the  far  West,  is  a  much  nobler  being 
than  these,  sometimes  drunken,  and  always  treacherous, 
scamps. 

The  cars  are  rapidly  whirling  away,  leaving  the  beau- 
tiful (.^)  city  of  Omaha  far  behind,  and  every  one  seems  dis- 
posed to  be   sociable   and   chatty,  for  it   is  universally  under- 


32  LINE   OF   CULTIVATION. 

stood  that  this  is  the  very  best  way  to  begin  a  long  journey, 
for,  as  everybody  comes  to  it  sooner  or  later,  why  not  at  first  ? 
The  sooner  we  become  acquainted  with  each  other  the  more 
pleasant  will  be  the  trip. 

We  met  several  very  nice  people  in  our  car,  among  whom 
in  particular  were  the  following  :  A  young  captain  in  the 
regular  army,  who,  but  four  months  before,  had  graduated 
with  high  honors  at  West  Point ;  an  elderly  lady  with  her 
daughter,  on  her  road  to  California,  who,  we  learned  afterward 
had  a  son  in  the  army  ;  a  gentleman  from  Chicago,  who  was 
bound  upon  the  same  trip  that  we  intended  taking  ;  and,  lastly, 
a  young  married  couple  with  their  two  little  daughters,  and 
beautiful  children  they  were,  who  formed  the  nucleus  of  in- 
terest, about  which  circled  all  the  attention  and  kind  criticism 
of  the  passengers. 

I  will  not  detain  you  with  a  detailed  description  of  all  the 
little  incidents  of  interest  that  occurred  in  the  car  before  we 
reached  Fremont,  where  we  took  dinner.  By  this  time  we 
were  pretty  well  acquainted,  and  it  was  odd  to  see  the  pass- 
engers of  different  cars  forming  parties  at  table.  It  was 
almost  always  the  case  that  those  persons  who  occupied  the 
same  car  sat  at  the  same  table.  We  were  now  pretty  far  out 
upon  the  Plains,  but  not  yet  past  the  cultivated  section,  for 
on  either  hand  stretched  away  corn,  wheat  and  ploughed  fields, 
giving  unmistakable  evidences  of  civilization,  without  the  ne- 
cessity of  looking  further  back  from  the  road  toward  the  farm- 
houses and  cattle-pens  that  would  confirm  the  impression. 
It  was  not  until  we  reached  Grand  Island,  the  supper- 
station,  that  we  might  truthfully  be  said  to  have  passed  out 
from  the  domain  of  men,  and  entered  that  of  undisturbed  na- 
ture. We  were  now  upon  the  wild,  broad  plains.  But  I 
must  not  anticipate. 


A   STORM   ON   THE   PLAINS.  33 

In  the  afternoon  about  four  o'clock,  we  noticed  in  the 
north-west,  indications  of  a  storm.  At  first,  no  attention  was 
paid  to  it,  but  it  was  not  long  before  it  became  evident  to 
every  one  that  a  terrible  tempest  was  brewing ;  a  regular 
"Storm  on  the  Plains"  that  we  had  all  heard  so  much  about. 
I,  at  least,  confess  that  I  was  pretty  nervous,  for,  to  witness 
the  fearfully  vivid  flashes  of  lightning,  and  listen  to  the  sharp 
crashes  of  thunder  that  followed  each  other  in  close  succession, 
was  certainly  something  to  inspire,  at  least,  a  wholesome 
dread  of  the  elements. 

Soon  the  lightning  seemed  scarcely  to  rest  an  instant,  but 
actually  formed  a  net-work  of  intensely  bright,  forked  streaks. 
All  along  the  sky  there  was  what  seemed  to  be  a  white  or 
grayish-white,  feathery  fringe  of  clouds,  which  was  the  surest 
sign  of  a  tornado.  This  appeared  the  more  striking  on  ac- 
count of  the  dark  blue,  almost  black,  back-ground.  It  was  a 
fearfully  grand  sight.  I  have  always  read  the  descriptions  of 
these  western  storms  with  a  certain  feeling  of  leniency  for  the 
exaggeration,  that  made  them  so  much  more  readable,  but 
now  I  am  convinced  that  these  accounts  were  no  exaggera- 
tions but  a  simple  relation  of  facts.  Before  we  had  run 
another  mile,  a  stiff  breeze  sprung  up,  blowing  directly 
across  the  train,  which  we  knew  was  the  freshening  before 
the  heavy  blow. 

The  thunder  was  something  awful.  Peal  after  peal  in 
quick  succession,  and  flash  followed  flash  with  astounding 
rapidity.  We  could  see  the  balls  of  fire  fall  within  a  short 
distance  from  us.  While  I  was  at  a  window  fastening  it  down 
securely,  I  saw  a  thunder-bolt  descend  and  strike  the  lev- 
el ground  not  more  than  six  hundred  yards  from  the  train. 
It  tore  the  earth  for  a  space  of  a  few  feet  around  the  point  of 
impact,   throwing  a  shower  of  dirt  and  sand  to  a  considerable 


|.  A   STORM   ON   THE   PLAINS. 

hight.  The  storm  was  upon  us.  In  a  moment  more  the 
hurricane  struck  us  and  almost  lifted  the  cars  from  the  track. 
We  could  feel  them  tremble  and  rise.  We  had  just  stopped 
at  a  station,  and  here  obtained  a  good  view  of  the  effects  of 
the  wind.  The  trees  surrounding  the  few  houses  composing 
the  village  were  literally  bent  to  the  ground.  The  lightning 
played  above  and  around  us.  Alongside  of  our  train  there 
was  another  standing  upon  a  switch.  The  wind,  somehow, 
got  under  the  corner  of  one  of  their  tin  roofs  and  ripped  it  off, 
wood  and  all.  The  rain  descended  in  torrents,  coming  in 
through  the  ventilators  of  the  car,  spite  of  all  our  endeavors  to 
render  them  water-tight.  Everybody  had  to  bundle  up,  the 
gentlemen  in  shawls  and  gum  coats,  and  the  ladies  in  hoods 
and  water-proofs,  or  betake  themselves  to  the  end  of  the  car 
or  into  the  state-rooms.  Nothing  could  keep  the  water  out. 
It  dripped  from  the  ceiling,  washed  in  under  the  windows,  and 
wet  the  seats  through,  causing  a  good  deal  of  inconvenience 
to  us  all. 

We  could  not  see  more  than  a  few  rods  on  account  of  the 
blinding  sheets  of  rain  blown  about  in  eddies  by  the  gusts  of 
wind.  The  plains  were  already  streaked  and  furrowed  by 
gulleys,  and  all  nature  presented  a  wild  scene  of  confusion. 
Now  and  then  a  strip  of  board  or  a  branch  of  a  tree  came 
crashing  against  the  side  of  the  car,  and  the  howling  of  the  wind 
and  pelting  of  the  rain,  prevented  all  conversation  within. 
While  we  were  stahding  by  the  station  house,  the  lightning 
struck  a  telegraph  pole  a  short  distance  up  the  track,  shatter- 
ing it  to  atoms  and  cutting  all  the  wires.  The  electricity 
came  hissing  and  crackling  along  into  the  office.  I  saw  a 
blue  light,  felt  a  queer  sensation,  and  saw  the  men  who 
were  standing  upon  the  platform  jump  as  if  they  had  been 
struck.      It    was   fearful  !      There    was    no    appreciable    time 


EFFECTS  OF  THE  WIND.  35 

between  the  flash  and  the  crash  of  thunder  accompanying  it. 
I  have  been  in  severe  storms  but  have  never  experienced  any 
that  equaled  this. 

After  the  storm  had  passed  over,  we  started  again  feel- 
ing somewhat  relieved  that  we  had  come  off  so  fortunately. 
Toward  sunset,  we  noticed  another  tempest  gathering  al- 
most in  the  same  quarter  of  the  heavens  in  which  the  first 
had  begun,  but,  as  there  was  a  strong  wind  blowing  in  that 
direction,  we  apprehended  no  immediate  danger  from  it. 

The  lightning  furnished  us  a  source  of  intense  interest  un- 
til we  retired,  for  it  played  from  the  clouds  to  the  ground  and 
back  again,  incessantly,  in  vivid  streaks,  illuminating  moment- 
arily the  limitless  expanse  of  plains  with  magnificent  effect. 
In  spite  of  the  wind,  however,  a  severe  counter-gust  swept 
over  us  during  the  night,  so  that  when  we  awakened  on  the 
following  morning  we  found  the  pillows  and  bedding  soaking 
wet.  It  was  not  as  heavy  a  storm  though,  as  that  which  we 
had  met  with  in  the  afternoon. 

We  were  roused  very  early  on  Thursday  morning  by  the 
colored  boy,  who  acted  as  a  semi-demi  conductor. 

"  Breakfast  in  one  hour  ! "  he  cried  ;  so  we  rose  immediate- 
ly and  dressed,  but,  by  way  of  traveling  discomfort,  were  oblig- 
ed to  wait  almost  all  the  given  time  for  a  number  of  ladies 
and  a  multitude  of  children  to  finish  their  ablutions  at  the 
wash-stand  in  the  end  of  the  car.  As  we  had  been  told  by 
the  agent  of  the  road  at  one  of  the  previous  stations,  we  now 
found  ourselves  in  the  buffalo  and  antelope  country  ;  so  we 
were  in  the  qui  vivc  to  catch  a  sight  of  some  of  these  far-famed 
animals.  We  breakfasted  at  a  little  place  called  Sidney,  con- 
sisting of  five  or  six  houses  or  rather  low,  log  cabins,  and  a 
water-shed.  Here  we  saw  quite  a  number  of  Pawnee  Indians 
E 


36  PAWNEE   INDIANS. 

who  had  an  encampment  a  short  distance  from  the  road  and 
were  engaged,  principally,  in  herding  cattle,  of  which,  they 
owned  thousands  of  head.  These  Indians  seemed  to  be  better 
behaved  and  were  certainly  better  dressed  than  those  we  had 
met  at  Omaha,  but  still  might  have  improved  on  their  toilet. 
Their  costume  was  as  follows.  Head  shaved  of  all  hair 
except  a  long  war-plume  in  the  center,  necklace  of  bear-claws, 
or  other  bone  around  the  neck,  face  in  most  instances  tattooed 
and  scarred.  A  large  shawl-like  buffalo  or  deer  skin  slung 
carelessly  over  the  shoulders  and  brought  in  tight  about  the 
waist  by  means  of  a  leather  belt,  in  which  were  stuck  a  brace 
of  pistols,  a  deer-knife,  and,  perhaps,  a  dirk.  This  garment  viz. 
the  one  which  covers  their  back  and  shoulders,  hangs  in  loose 
folds  to  the  knees,  sometimes  lower.  Lower  limbs  bare  from 
the  tip  of  the  deer  skin  to  the  ankle  where  the  moccasin  be- 
gins. In  the  center  of  the  deer  skin,  between  the  left  shoulder 
and  the  sternum,  rests  the  tomahawk  with  the  handle  pro- 
jecting downward  and  supported  by  the  blade.  Across  the 
back  is  strung  the  rifle,  which  completes  the  Indian's  costume. 
At  one  of  these  little  stations,  as  we  came  up,  I  noticed  a  tall 
athletic  warrior,  standing  in  graceful  repose  with  his  arms 
folded  across  his  breast  and  his  eyes  fixed  steadily  upon  the 
train.  His  face  betrayed  no  emotion  whether  of  pleasure  or 
dislike.  No  one  could  have  divined  a  single  thought  by  look- 
ing at  his  unmoved,  stony  countenance.  He  was  not  ap- 
proached by  any  one,  and  kept  aloof  from  all.  He  stood  a 
little  to  one  side,  out  of  the  line  of  bustle,  affording  us  a  fine 
view  of  his  muscular  yet  lithe  figure.  In  a  physical  point  of 
view,  he  could  possess  no  other  advantage  than  what  he 
already  had.  However,  upon  his  face,  was  written  in  seams, 
for  words,  vicious  ignorance.  The  savage  was  portrayed  in 
every  lineament,  and  yet,  when  I  gazed  upon  him,  he  somehow 
struck  me  as  being  a  noble  creature  even  in  his  degraded  state. 


AN   INSTANCE   OF   STOICISM.  37 

We  Stopped  at  the  station  for  at  least  five  minutes,  but  from 
the  time  I  first  saw  him,  until  the  moment  I  lost  sight  of  him 
behind  the  building,  as  we  moved  off  again,  he  did  not  move 
a  muscle,  but  stood  like  a  statue,  as  if  carved  out  of  marble. 
I  have  heard  of  the  great  stoicism  of  the  red  man,  but  here 
was  an  instance  of  it  that  I  had  not  dreamed  of. 

We  passed  on,  and  at  a  place  called  Lone  Tree,  met  with 
the  young  wife  of  an  officer  who  was  stationed  there  with 
some  U.  S.  troops.  They  had  their  camp  and  barracks  at 
but  a  short  distance  from  the  station.  She  was  quite  pretty 
and  very  much  sunburnt  ;  this  however  only  added  to  the 
healthy  glow  of  her  bright  and  youthful  face.  She  had  tamed 
and  made  pets  of  two  beautiful  little  fawns  which  followed  her 
about  like  dogs,  and  ate  from  her  hand.  Of  course  we  caress- 
ed and  admired  them  sufficiently  to  gratify  her  pride,  and  were 
so  much  pleased  with  their  grace  and  beauty,  that  we  spent 
all  the  time  that  the  train  was  there,  in  watching  them  as  they 
frisked  about  their  mistress  in  cunning  antics.  I  did  wish  I 
could  buy  one  and  bring  it  home  with  me,  for  they  were  such 
delicate  and  charming  little  creatures  that,  before  we  left,  they 
had  quite  captivated  me. 

For  some  time  we  rode  through  a  barren,  treeless  waste 
which  was  in  reality  the  much  talked  of  and  praised  Platte 
Valley  Bottom.  We  had  crossed  the  Platte  River  during 
the  night,  but  did  not  lose  much  in  point  of  beautiful  scenery, 
as  we  learned  afterward  that  it  was  nothing  but  an  insig- 
nificant stream  which  flows  along  a  channel,  cut  from  the  level 
plain  by  the  gradual  wear  of  the  water. 

The  ride  now  began  to  be  more  interesting,  for  not  only 
had  we  the  anticipation  of  seeing  a  herd  of  buffalo  and  perhaps 
some  antelope,  but  we  passed  through  large  cities  of  prairie 
dogs. 


38  A   WESTERN 

These  dog-towns  consist  of  little  white  mounds  of  sandy 
soil,  heaped  up  without  regard  to  a  criterion  of.  any  descrip- 
tion, but  seeming  to  have  been  built  to  suit  the  tastes  of  the 
different  animals. 

In  each  one  a  hole  enters  at  the  top,  leading  down  almost 
perpendicularly  for  the  distance  of  about  two  or  three  feet. 
In  these  diminutive  under-ground  houses  live  in  company  with 
the  prairie  dogs,  both  owls  and  snakes,  in  perfect  harmony 
and  apparent  contentment. 

It  is  rather  singular  that  there  should  exist  such  an  odd 
amalgamation  among  animals  of  apparently  diversified  dis- 
positions and  habits.  We  amused  ourselves  for  some  time  by 
shooting  at  them  from  the  platforms  and  windows  of  the  car, 
but  we  were  flying  along  at  such  speed,  that  there  was  hardly 
time  enough  for  a  steady  aim  ;  consequently  our  endeavors 
proved  in  every  instance  unsuccessful.  It  was  real  fun  though 
to  see  the  bullet  hit  the  ground  but  a  foot  or  two  from  them, 
and  see  them  disappear  with  inconceivable  rapidity,  into  their 
holes.  Once  during  the  day  we  saw  antelope  grazing  in  a 
ravine  some  distance  away,  but  did  not  even  catch  a  glimpse 
of  a  single  buffalo.  They  appear  to  be  more  plenty  on  the 
lower  route,  viz  :  the  Kansas  Pacific  Rail  Road.  We  were  told 
by  the  employees  upon  the  train  that  they  had  been  pretty 
thoroughly  thinned  out  so  far  north,  and  had  migrated  to  the 
southern  plains.  However  we  saw  any  number  of  their  skulls, 
horns,  and  skeletons,  lying  upon  the  plain,  bleached  snow- 
white  by  the  sun's  rays  and  the  effect  of  weathering. 

At  last  we  drew  near  Cheyenne.  We  now  began  to  pass 
under  long  snow-sheds  built  over  the  track  to  protect  it  from 
the  slides  of  snow  that  would  inevitably  occur  without  their 
intervention,  for  the  country  had  now  become  much  more 
hilly,  and,  in  some  places,  almost  mountainous.     The  sheds 


CHEYENNE. 


39 


are  constructed  over  those  places  where  the  road  passes 
through  what  is  called  a  "Cut,"  and  are  braced  by  long  pine 
poles,  planted  firmly  in  the  ground,  and  joined  by  short 
strips  of  boards. 

It  was  not  until  after  twelve  o'clock  that  we  reached 
Cheyenne,  the  hottest,  smallest,  dullest  little  place  imagin- 
able. The  only  redeeming  feature  connected  with  Cheyenne 
is  its  dry,  pure  and  healthy  atmosphere.  However  warm  the 
rays  of  a  summer's  sun,  there  is  a  something  about  the  air 
which  exhilarates  and  invigorates  one.  Its  elevation  cor- 
responding to  that  of  Mt.  Washington,  in  New  Hampshire, 
gives  one  a  feeling  of  elasticity  which  makes  it  a  pleasure  to 
live.  And  not  only  does  the  charm  and  novelty  of  the  sur- 
roundings refresh  the  wearied  senses,  but  the  eye  is  gratified 
by  a  scene  of  contrast  and  unending  variety  of  broken,  mount- 
ainous and  level  landscape.  Long  ranges  of  black  hills  ex- 
tend along  the  horizon,  bounding  the  vision  both  on  the  north 
and  the  south.  Here  and  there,  perhaps  upon  the  peak  of 
some  taller  one  than  the  rest,  we  noticed  a  dash  of  snow 
which  served  only  to  enliven  the  already  charming  view.  The 
coloring  of  the  more  distant  hills,  formed,  by  their  interchange 
of  shades  and  tinges,  a  most  exquisite  picture  for  the  artist's 
eye. 

Upon  our  arrival  at  Cheyenne,  we  took  a  hasty  dinner  and 
sauntered  about,  to  observe  the  more  striking  features  of  the 
town,  in  order  to  be  the  better  able  to  form  an  opinion  of  its 
resources  and  position.  There  is  nothing  attractive  immedi- 
ately about  the  city  ;  one  has  only  to  raise  his  eyes,  however, 
from  the  dusty,  unpaved  streets,  to  the  horizon,  to  catch  a 
grand  glimpse  of  that  snowy  range,  which  is  in  truth  the 
wealth  and  pride  of  North  America.  Notwithstanding  the 
beauty  and  impressiveness  of  this  view,  we  could  hardly  be 


40  DENVER. 

said  to  have  yet  reached  the  true  standpoint  from  which  to 
command  their  fullest  and  most  inpiring  extent,  or  their  rich- 
est and  deepest  coloring.  Their  sublimity  as  seen  from  this 
place  is  lost  in  disance.  A  correct  and  overwhelming  con- 
ception of  their  altitude  is  only  to  be  obtained  when  you  stand 
nearly  at  their  bases. 

Cheyenne  is  not  yet  the  great  junction  city  which  it  is  pre- 
dicted to  become  in  the  near  future,  yet  it  is  the  main  support 
of  the  Wyoming  Territory,  almost  upon  whose  borders  it  is 
situated.  It  is  a  village  still,  but  judging  from  its  prominent 
and  well  chosen  site,  its  wealth  of  pure,  fresh  water  from  the 
mountains,  and  the  enterprise  of  its  inhabitants,  who  number 
somewhere  near  four  thousand,  it  might  warrantably  be  ex- 
pected that  the  fulfillment  of  the  afore-mentioned  prophesy 
would  be  consummated  at  no  distant  day.  I  have  spoken  at 
length  in  its  favor,  with  two  objects  ;  the  first,  because  it  merits 
all  I  have  said,  and  secondly,  for  the  reason  that  I  desire  to 
erase  any  erroneous  impressions  which  might  have  been  form- 
ed on  account  of  my  first  statement,  which  was  rather  derog- 
atory both  to  its  character  and  prospects. 

Upon  our  return  to  the  station  we  found  the  other  train 
in  waiting,  and  we  had  just  time  enough  to  choose  a  seat  and 
deposit  our  light  traveling  impediment  a  ^  when  the  whistle 
blew,  and  we  steamed  off  on  our  way  to  Denver. 

On  the  road  over,  we  were  again  entertained  by  the  prairie 
dogs,  but  now  our  thoughts  were  almost  constantly  occupied 
with  Denver  and  its  surroundings.  The  ride  for  the  next  five 
hours  was  anything  but  interesting.  In  recalling  it,  there  in- 
stantly arises  a  grim  spectre  of  "want."  It  was  not  the 
scenery  taken  as  a  whole  that  left  such  an  impression  upon  our 
minds,  but  as  viewed  intimately,  and  involuntarily  estimated, 
according  to    such  inspection.     The  country  through   which 


DENVER.  41 

we  passed,  was  a  broken  and  varied  one,  and,  if  covered  with 
verdure  and  watered  by  numerous  streams,  would  have  pre- 
sented a  picture  which,  in  point  of  scenery  and  utility,  would 
have  merited  the  immoderate  praise  of  the  many  travelers 
who,  returning  to  the  East,  vie  with  each  other  to  commend 
the  richness  of  the  soil,  the  number  and  length  of  the  streams, 
and  the  agricultural  advantages  of  this  western  country. 

It  is  a  very  good  thing  to  travel,  but  it  is  a  very  bad  thing, 
if  the  people  in  the  east,  by  this  means,  are  going  to  be  de- 
luded into  forming  incorrect  and  injuriously  extravagant  ideas 
of  a  country  which  they  have  never  seen.  This  is  not  the 
worst  feature  of  these  flattered  and  overdrawn  accounts  of 
Colorado  ;  perhaps,  a  poor  farmer  in  Pennsylvania,  who  has 
been  spending  years  of  toil  to  barely  support  his  family,  reads 
this  colored  description — of  what  .'*  Of  a  rich  farming  land 
where  the  grain  waves  beside  the  deep  flowing  water-courses 
and  tall  trees  cast  cooling  shade  over  sequestered  farm  houses, 
of  warm  sunshine,  and  refreshing  rain  that  cause  the  rich 
grass  to  spring  into  life.  All  this  he  reads  and  believes.  Act- 
ing upon  this  conviction,  he  sells  his  homestead,  and  migrates 
westward.  He  reaches  Colorado,  and  looks  around  him  for 
the  fertility  and  cultivation  that  has  been  pictured  to  him. 
What  does  he  see  }     Aridity,  barrenness  and  a  desert  waste. 

The  few  farmers  who  have  ventured  their  all  upon  this 
sandy  soil,  and  who  have'nt  made  enough  to  buy  their  passage 
back  to  the  east,  are  barely  sustaining  themselves  and  families 
by  the  very  hardest  labor.  It  takes  two  or  three  years  to 
raise  wheat  enough  to  supply  a  family  of  four  or  five — I  mean 
by  this,  that  for  the  first  two  years,  nothing  whatever  is 
raised,  and  at  the  end  of  the  third  season,  he  may  perhaps 
harvest  a  crop.  Fruit  growing  has  always  been  a  total  failure 
in  Colorado,  and  the  only  means  of  moistening  the  soil  suf- 


42  DENVER. 

ficiently  to  bring  forth  any  herb,  except  burnt  buffalo  grass 
and  cactus,  is  that  of  ii-rigation.  Ten  farmers  have  lately 
combined  their  capital  and  labor  to  dig  a  ten-mile  ditch  for 
their  joint  benefit.  When  we  visited  Denver,  there  had  no 
rain  fallen  for  eight  weeks,  and  during  the  two  weeks  that 
we  spent  among  the  mountains  and  on  the  plains,  only  two 
showers  fell,  and  both  were  in  Clear  Creek  Caiion.  How  can 
wheat  or  corn  flourish  under  such  circumstances  }  But  not- 
withstanding all  these  disadvantages  staring  every  sane  trav- 
eler in  the  face  with  convincing  force,  the  people  of  the 
East  read  elaborate  and  high-toned  accounts  of  these  same 
plains  and  this  same  inarable  sun-scorched  soil.  There  is  a 
possibility  of  its  being  gradually  worked  into  productiveness, 
but  only  by  long  years  of  unrepaid  labor,  and  even  then  we 
have  no  justification  for  expecting  more  than  a  meagre  return 
for  the  immense  capital  expended.  Now  in  saying  what  I 
have,  concerning  this  region,  it  has  been  done  from  a  sense 
of  duty  to  those  who  may  read  these  pages,  however  few 
they  may  be.  I  have  read  so  many  accounts  of  the  "  Far 
West,"  and  they  have  all  told  of  such  rich  and  undeveloped 
agricultural  districts,  that,  having  now  traveled  through  this 
far  famed  country  for  myself,  and  having  discovered  with  what 
inexcusable  misrepresentations  I  had  been  deluded,  I  feel 
it  my  duty,  since  I  am  describing  what  I  saw,  to  tell  the  truth, 
the  whole  truth,  and  nothing  but  the  truth. 

Now  let  us  return  to  Denver.  After  reaching  the  depot, 
we  were  hustled  into  a  huge  bus  and  jolted  unceremoniously 
away  to  the  hotel,  through  a  pouring  rain.  The  storm  had 
overtaken  us  but  a  few  miles  from  the  city. 

We  were  shown  very  pleasant  rooms,  and  after  enjoying 
a  good,  hot  supper,  and  visiting  the  Post  Office  and  Telegraph 
Office,  we  retired  feeling  pretty  thoroughly  fatigued  by  the 
day's  travel. 


DENVER.  43 

It  was  not  until  we  rose  much  refreshed  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  that  we  could  fully  realize  that  we  were 
in  truth  at  our  destination,  over  two  thousand  miles  from 
home. 

Some  deliberation  was  necessary  to  determine  how  we 
should  best  spend  the  day,  but  acting  upon  a  happy  thought, 
we  went  down  town  and  succeeded  in  procuring  a  couple  of 
mettled  horses,  upon  which  we  proposed  riding  out  over  the 
Plains.  Having  returned  to  the  hotel  and  changed  our  attire 
somewhat  to  suit  the  excursion,  we  patiently  awaited  the 
animals.  They  arrived  in  good  season,  so  forthwith,  we 
mounted  and  were  off.  We  rode  directly  eastward  for  about 
two  miles,  when  we  reached  the  crest  of  the  ridge  overlooking 
the  city.  From  this  eminence  we  obtained  a  grand  view  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  were  visible  for  over  a  hundred 
miles,  stretching  along  the  horizon  as  an  immense  jagged  and 
peaked  range,  lifting  their  snow-crowned  summits  into  the 
clouds.  It  was  a  beautiful  sight,  but  we  did  not  get  its  full 
effect  until,  while  returning,  we  had  it  directly  before  us. 

Denver  lies  upon  a  gentle  slope  gradually  rising  from  the 
South  Platte  River,  which  sweeps  around  its  western  suburbs, 
flowing  down  the  Platte  Valley,  past  Greeley,  and  joining  its 
companion  stream,  the  North  Platte,  at  a  place  bearing  the 
same  name  situated  upon  the  line  of  the  Union  Pacific  Rail 
Road.  From  this  point  it  marks,  by  its  course,  the  center  of 
of  the  great  Plfitte  Valley  Bottom  which  extends  for  hundreds 
and  hundreds  of  miles  across  the  vast  Plains.  Denver  is  a 
city  of  six  thousand  inhabitants  and  possesses  all  the  ad- 
vantages of  both  a  railroad  terminus  and  center,  and  a  con- 
venient depot  for  the  products  of  the  Clear  Creek  mining 
region,  as  well  as  all  the  other  mining  districts  which  it  com- 
mands through  more  than  half  a  dozen  canons,  all  visible  from 
F 


44  FIRST  VIEW    OF   THE   MOUNTAINS. 

the  city.  There  is  not  a  street  but  what  is  limited  in  per- 
spective by  either  a  vista  with  a  mountainous  or  plain  back- 
ground. On  the  southeast  is  to  be  seen  Pike's  Peak,  tower- 
ing far  above  the  surrounding  ones,  and  looking  as  though  the 
intervening  distance  could  not  be  more  than  ten  miles  ;  but 
which  is,  in  reality,  over  ninety. 

Long's  Peak  just  fills  the  vista  of  one  of  the  principal 
business  streets,  and  Lincoln's  Peak  is  barely  distinguishable, 
lying  far  away  to  the  northwest.  There  appear  to  be  three 
pretty  distinct  ranges.  The  first,  which  lies  nearest  the  city, 
is  only  about  two  or  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  plain,  the  second  twice  the  size,  and  the  third,  dimly  out- 
lined against  the  sky,  is  scarcely  to  be  distinguished  from 
great  banks  of  bluish-gray  clouds.  These  three  ranges  form 
by  their  infinite  combinations  of  color  and  outline,  the  most 
pleasing  feature  of  this  sublimest  of  mountain  scenery.  As 
you  gaze  upon  them  in  rapt  admiration,  you  are  struck,  first 
of  all,  by  their  magnitude  ;  for,  if  they  seem  so  large  at  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty  miles,  what  would  be  their  appearance  when 
standing  at  their  feet.  Still  studying  their  gigantic  proportions, 
you  become  aware  of  a  soothing,  quieting  influence  which  is 
the  result  of  the  perfect  blending  of  colors,  the  gradual  melt- 
ing of  one  range  into  another,  without  that  abruptness  which 
is  the  special  characteristic  of  so  many  mountain  views. 
Everything  about  them  is  in  exquisite  harmony  with  its  sur- 
roundings. The  misty  haze  hanging  over  the  gorges,  and  the 
dark  storm-clouds  further  back  among  the  peaks,  casting  a 
shadow  on  the  mountain  slope,  upon  which,  but  a  moment 
since,  the  merry  sunshine  played,  illuminating  the  recesses  of 
the  cafions  and  tinging  the  bare  faces  of  the  rocks  with  bright- 
ness. 

Away  up  toward  the  summits  lie  white  patches  of  snow, 
in  sharp  contrast  with  the   dark,  weather-beaten   cliffs.     But 


FIRST  VIEW  OF   THE   MOUNTAINS.  45 

to  return  !  We  rode  out  in  a  straight  course  for  some  six  or 
eight  miles  until  we  happened  upon  a  cool  and  shady  spot  on 
the  banks  of  the  Platte  River.  Here  we  hitched  our  horses 
and  seated  ourselves  beneath  the  over-stretching  branches  of 
the  cotton  wood  trees  that  lined  the  stream,  to  enjoy  a  short 
respite  from  the  fatigue  and  heat.  Soon  we  were  enticed  by 
some  small  game  to  quit  our  retreat,  but  it  was  not  long,  how- 
ever, before  we  tired  of  pursuing  birds  that  were  not  even  ap- 
proachable ;  so  we  returned,  and,  reseating  ourselves,  drank  in 
the  beauty  and  novelty  of  the  scene  around  us.  On  the  east, 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  stretched  away  an  expanse  of 
level,  scorched  plain,  with  nothing  to  break  its  monotony  but 
the  old  emigrant  trail,  that  wound  along  like  an  immense 
white  serpent,  affording  by  its  perspective  a  good  idea  of  its 
extent.  On  the  west  the  snowy  summits  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  reared  themselves  in  majestic  grandeur,  seeming 
to  lean  against  the  sky,  while  the  lower  ranges  jut  upward 
six  or  seven  thousand  feet,  and  are  of  a  dark,  velvety,  violet 
hue.  They  are  cloven  asunder  by  the  cafions  of  the  streams 
streaked  with  dark  lines  of  pines  which  feather  their  summit, 
a'nd  are  sunny,  with  steep  slopes  of  pasture.  These  three  chains 
with  their  varying  but  never  discordant  undulations  are  as  in- 
spiring to  the  imagination  as  they  are  enchanting  to  the  eye. 
They  hint  of  concealed  grandeurs  in  all  the  glens  and  parks 
among  them,  and  yet  hold  you  back  with  a  doubt  whether 
they  are  more  beautiful  near  at  hand  than  when  beheld  at 
this  distance.  They  extend  around  the  horizon  bounding 
the  vision  also  on  the  south.  On  the  north  are  moun- 
tains and  plain  in  charming  contrast.  Truly  it  is  worth 
all  the  fatigue  of  traveling,  and  the  loss  of  comforts  and 
time  to  behold  such  wonderful  exhibitions  of  the  power  of 
nature. 


46  FIRST   VIEW   OF   THE    MOUNTAINS. 

We  returned  to  Denver  in  time  for  a  late  dinner,  after 
which  we  amused  ourselves  in  writing  a  few  letters  and  "  doing 
the  town." 

In  the  evening  we  spent  more  than  two  hours  in  hunting 
up  Col.  Greenwood,  but  after  finding  his  residence,  we  were 
told  that  he  was  out  that  evening  at  a  party  given  by  Gov- 
ernor Hunt,  so  we  returned  to  our  rooms  pretty  tired  and 
quite  ready  for  a  sound  sleep. 

The  first  thing  in  the  morning  we  visited  the  office  of  the 
Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  but  as  Col.  Greenwood  was 
not  in,  we  lounged  and  yawned  over  the  monotony  of  our 
situation  until  we  were  informed  by  black  "John,"  who 
came  to  our  room,  that  dinner  was  ready.  This  was  the  most 
welcome  intelligence  that  we  could  have  received,  so  we 
followed  him  to  the  dining  room,  where  we  passed  the 
pleasantest  hour  of  the  whole  day. 

In  the  afternoon  we  employed  our  time  variously,  as  in 
consulting  over  our  future  plans,  looking  about  the  town, 
making  sundry  arrangements  relating  to  our  projected  moun- 
tain tour,  sitting  lazily  in  our  rooms  and  sleeping,  which  last 
occupied  most  of  the  time. 

The  entire  evening  was  spent  in  packing  our  trunks  and 
carpet  bags,  and  making  up  our  mountain  outfit,  for  we  had 
decided  to  leave  for  Georgetown  upon  the  following  morning. 
We  retired  early  in  order  to  obtain  a  good  rest  before  begin- 
ning our  labors. 

We  were  called  on  Sunday  morning  in  time  for  the  six 
o'clock  stage,  and  at  the  appointed  hour  we  were  jolting  out 
of  Denver  toward  the  mountains.  Our  course,  at  first,  lay 
toward  the  base  of  Long's  Peak,  but  at  the  end  of  an  hour 
deviated  toward  the  north,  and  entered  the  range  through 
one  of  the  numerous  canons  which  open  out  upon  the  plain. 


FIRST   VIEW   OF   THE    MOUNTAINS.  47 

It  was  not  until  we  stopped  at  a  relay  house  about 
thirteen  miles  from  Denver  that  we  found  ourselves  actually 
in  the  heart  of  the  chain.  The  mountains  rise  on  either  side 
almost  perpendicularly,  forming,  at  times,  apparently  insur- 
mountable barriers  to  the  onward  progress  of  the  stage,  but 
we  always  managed  to  wind  around  their  bases  so  as  to  avoid 
such  obstacles. 

We  took  dinner  at  a  few  shanties  and  a  big  pine  building 
bearing  the  name  of  "  Pine  Valley  House  ;"  however,  they 
set  a  good  table,  so  we,  of  course  enjoyed  ourselves  corres- 
pondingly. 

The  scenery  to  be  met  with  in  this  ride  is,  beyond  all 
description,  sublime  and  awe  inspiring.  The  senses  are 
benumbed  in  taking  in  the  wildness,  ruggedness  and  beauty 
of  those  Rocky  Mountain  passes  and  gorges.  At  one  moment 
we  were  just  hanging  to  the  mountain  side,  thousands  of  feet 
above  the  bottom  of  the  canon,  then  winding  around  the 
brinks  of  fearful  precipices,  and  anon  dragging  slowly  along 
by  the  side  of  the  gurgling  waters  of  Clear  Creek,  that  flows 
through  South  Park,  and  which,  traversing  the  plain  far  below 
Denver,  forms,  for  itself,  a  plateau  of  rich  grazing  land  before 
bidding  adieu  to  the  grand,  old  hoary  hills  forever. 

Every  few  moments,  as  we  rounded  a  sharp  bend  in  the 
road,  we  would  catch  a  glimpse  of  a  scene  that  would  fill  the 
soul  of  a  poet  or  artist  with  pure  delight.  Here  were  deep 
gorges  and  lovely  valley-bottoms,  winding  rivulets  and  snow- 
capped peaks,  all  heaped  together  in  the  wildest  but  most 
enchanting  confusion.  The  snow  was  not  everywhere  white, 
but  often  flushed  with  the  most  exquisite  pinkish  tint  that 
only  enhanced  its  beauty.  The  verdure  of  the  pines  which 
covered  the  mountain  sides  to  a  hight  of  eleven  thou- 
sand and  eight  hundred  feet,  seemed    like  a  huge  garment 


48  ENTERING    THE   MOUNTAINS. 

of  deepest  green,  festooned  in  graceful  folds  along  the  steep 
acclivity,  as  if  to  hide  from  sight  the  ugliness  of  the  bare 
rocks  beneath. 

Every  mile  or  so  we  passed  the  rude  hut  of  some  lone 
miner,  who  imagines  that  he  is  getting  rich,  but  in  reality 
wasting  his  labor,  and  perhaps  his  capital  upon  an  insignifi- 
cant lode. 

It  was  a  superb  day.  The  wind  blew  from  the  snow- 
fields,  tempering  the  heat  of  a  dazzling  sun  in  a  cloudless  sky. 
We  were  now  above  the  line  of  arborescence,  and  began  to 
experience  a  change  in  the  atmosphere  the  more  striking  the 
greater  our  ascent. 

Here  and  there,  we  saw  behind  and  below  us  the  scat- 
tered cabins  of  the  miners,  that  were  barely  discernable 
through  groups  of  tall,  dark  fir  trees  ;  the  creek,  dammed  for 
a  stamp  mill,  spread  out  a  bright  lake  in  the  lap  of  the  valley, 
and  southward  the  sharp  summit  of  Franklin's  Peak  rose 
above  all  the  surrounding  mountains. 

We  had  still  a  good  wagon  road,  with  rough  bridges 
across  the  torrents  which  came  down  from  every  rocky  glen. 
The  valley  now  gradually  narrowed,  and  we  entered  a  defile 
far  grander  than  anything  we  had  yet  seen  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  On  either  side  enormous  masses  of  dark  red  rock 
towered  over  our  heads  to  the  hight  of  fifteen  hundred  feet, 
so  torn  and  split  into  colossal  towers,  walls  and  buttresses, 
that  every  minute  presented  a  new  combination  of  forms. 
The  bed  of  the  glen  was  filled  with  huge  fragments,  tumbled 
from  above.  Even  here,  high  up  on  almost  inaccessible  points, 
the  prospectors  had  left  their  traces,  lured  by  the  indications 
of  ore  in  cliffs  above,  to  which  they  dare  not  climb.  Our 
necks  ached  with  gazing  at  the  sharp,  sky-piercing  peaks,  in 


PASSING  THE  RANGE.  49 

the  hope  of  detecting  mountain  sheep,  but  none  were  to  be 
seen.  At  this  elevation  there  were  few  trees,  and  the  valley 
yawned  under  us  like  an  enormous  green  basin  with  a  jagged 
white  border. 

We  at  last  attained  a  point  from  which  we  commanded  a 
magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding  range.  Looking  west- 
ward, we  could  follow  the  serpentine  course  of  Clear  Creek 
for  more  than  fifteen  miles.  The  main  valley  seemed  to  be 
formed  of  four  or  five  small  ones,  radiating  down  from 
between  the  bastions  of  the  main  chain. 

We  had  now  reached  our  greatest  altitude,  and  proceed- 
ing slowly  along  the  crest  of  the  pass  for  some  distance,  the 
road  suddenly  sinks  and  we  are  once  more  descending.  What 
a  relief  from  the  ever-straining,  never-resting  ascent.  But 
if  the  climbing  of  the  steep  mountain  side  at  an  angle,  some- 
times of  not  less  than  forty-five  degrees,  is  laborious  and 
attended  with  extreme  peril  both  to  man  and  beast,  the  ride 
down  from  the  summit  is  not  less  fatiguing  and  dangerous. 
The  wheels  of  the  large  coach  were  locked  almost  constantly 
by  the  brake,  and  the  horses  went  sliding  and  stumbling  down 
among  the  loose  stones  and  half  uncovered  roots,  threaten- 
ing us  by  their  fall,  with  instant  death.  I  like  excitement, 
but  this  wasn't  of  the  pleasant  sort.  Fortunately  we  had  no 
ladies  along,  or  perhaps  we  might  not  have  lived  to  tell  the 
story  of  such  a  ride.  All  the  way  down,  or  at  least  until 
we  reached  a  plateau,  only  a  few  hundred  feet  above  the 
stream,  we  waited  in  mute  expectation  of  being  toppled 
over  the  edges  of  the  gorges,  or  of  being  dashed  out  by 
the  horny  and  gnarled  branches  of  the  pines,  past  which 
we  rumbled  at  a  terrifying  speed.  Fortunately  the  driver 
understood  his  business,  and  piloted  us  down  without  any 
further    accident    than    the     loosening    of    a    whipple-tree. 


50  PASSING    THE    RANGE. 

The  view  had  been  utterly   forgotten   in    our   anxiety  con- 
cerning our  safety 

After  reaching  the  base  of  the  mountain  we  had  better 
roads.  They  were  both  more  level  and  not  so  winding,  so 
that  we  kept  up  a  pretty  fair  gait  for  the  next  few  miles. 


CHAPTER     III. 

Idaho. — Its  Springs. —  The  Georgetown  Valley. — Georgetoivn. — 
Character  of  its  Inhabitants. —  The  Ascent  of  Grey  s  Peak. 
—  TJie  View  from  the  Summit. — A  Storm  among  the  Motin^ 
tains. —  The  Descent. 

At  about  two  o'clock  we  arrived  at  Idaho.  This  is  a 
pretty  little  place  situated  just  on  the  banks  of  Clear  Creek, 
whose  cold,  clear  stream,  fed  from  the  fields  of  melting  snow, 
foamed  and  flashed  in  the  sun. 

The  soda  springs  here  have  been  already  turned  to  serv- 
ice. Two  bath-houses  have  been  built  for  summer  guests,  and 
offer  one  of  the  greatest  luxuries  to  be  obtained  in  the  mount- 
ains. Unfortunately,  we  had  not  time  for  a  plunge,  as  the 
stage  only  stopped  long  enough  for  a  change  of  horses.  One 
of  the  springs  is  hot,  the  other  cold  ;  but  so  close  together, 
that  it  would  seem  inevitable  that  the  waters  would  mingle 
beneath  the  surface  of  the  ground.  In  addition  to  theso 
springs,  there  are  quite  a  number  of  gold  mines  situated  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  village. 

But  neither  these  nor  her  wealth  of  mineral  waters  com- 
prise all  the  riches  of  Idaho.  Further  down  the  valley  some- 
where, there  is  a  vein  of  rough  opal  eighteen  inches  thick. 
We  saw  some  specimens  at  the  hotel.  It  is  undoubtedly 
opal,  though  of  faint,  imperfect  fire,  as  if  its  qualit\'  wcrr 
faded  by  long  exposure  to  the  weather. 
G 


52  IDAHO. — ITS   SPRINGS. 

Leaving  this  ''city  among  the  hills,"  we  drove  through 
the  gorge  into  another  open  stretch  of  valley. 

Westward,  directly  in  front,  a  peak  of  the  central  snowy 
range  towered  over  all  the  intermediate  hights  ;  while  on 
the  left  Mount  Douglass,  throwing  its  own  shadow  over  a 
thousand  feet  of  vertical  precipice,  guarded  the  entrance  into 
Georgetown  Valley. 

We  drove  on  over  what  is  called  the  "second  bottom,"  a 
low  table-land,  rising  into  hills  a  mile  from  the  stream,  and 
covered  with  a  growth  of  silvery  sage,  that,  from  a  distance, 
gave  it  the  appearance  of  a  meadow,  upon  which  the  crystal 
frost-fibres  stand,  lifting  by  their  tiny  strength  the  gray  car- 
pet of  glittering  dew. 

We  had  not  proceeded  a  mile,  however,  before  our  way 
was  barred  by  an  abrupt  mountain,  through  the  center  of 
which,  the  stream  forced  its  way  in  a  narrow  rock-walled  slit, 
— a  r^Wf?;/, (funnel)  in  the  strictest  sense  of  the  word.  The 
road  led  us  into  this  cleft,  taking  the  very  edge  of  a  precipice, 
two  hundred  feet  in  perpendicular  depth,  where  there  was 
barely  room  for  the  wheels  to  clear  the  brink.  Under  us, 
Clear  Creek  was  a  mass  of  foam  ;  opposite,  not  a  stone's 
throw  across,  rose  the  jagged  walls  of  dark  red  rock,  termi- 
nating in  fantastic  pinnacles.  It  was  an  exciting  passage, 
not  unmixed  with  fear,  especially  when  in  ascending  a  short, 
steep  ridge,  we  had  to  halt,  for  the  horses  to  breathe,  in  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  pass,  where  portions  of  the  rock  under 
us  had  crumbled  away.  A  valley  succeeded,  then  a  second 
and  loftier  range  where  the  dividing  cafion  disclosed  the  most 
singular  formation  of  rock— natural  fortresses  and  towers. 
Away  to  the  left,  rose  two  or  three  peaks  of  dazzling  snow, 
sharply  outlined  against  the  hard,  dark  blue  of  the  sky. 


THE   GEORGETOWN   VALLEY.  53 

The  road  now  descended  by  gradual  steps  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  ravine,  and  wound  along,  keeping  just  alongside 
the  creek  for  a  distance  of  five  miles. 

All  around  us  the  half  bare  sides  of  the  mountains  reared 
themselves,  looking  as  though  at  any  time  they  might 
entirely  shut  over  the  narrow  gorge  leading  into  their  very 
heart.  Notwithstanding  the  perils  and  difficulties  of  this 
Rocky  Mountain  ride,  we  had  a  good  deal  of  fun  in  the  old 
coach.  There  was  a  young  gentleman  from  St.  Louis,  who 
afforded  amusement  for  the  party  by  his  laughable  stories  and 
odd  pantomime. 

The  time  passed  very  pleasantly  after  reaching  the  base 
of  the  first  range,  until  we  entered  Georgetown  Valley,  where 
difficulties  and  obstacles  multiplied  with  disheartening  rapid- 
ity, and  it  was  more  than  two  hours  before  we  again  issued 
from  among  the  masses  of  rock  and  thick  forests  of  pine, 
within  a  mile  of  our  destination.  On  consulting  our  watches 
we  found  that  it  was  growing  late.  Just  then,  a  break  in  the 
woods  showed  us  the  evening  shadows  high  on  the  opposite 
mountain  ;  so  we  urged  the  driver  to  quicken  our  speed  so  that 
we  might  reach  Georgetown  by  night-fall.  It  was  only  a 
short  distance  further,  and  we  crossed  the  intervening  space 
of  rich  meadow  land,  studded  with  many  colored  mountain 
flowers,  in  the  best  humor  possible,  in  prospect  of  a  warm 
supper  and  a  comfortable  bed.  Almost  unnoticed  by  any  of  us, 
the  mists  that  had  been  hanging  among  the  ravines,  now 
rolled  into  clouds  and  came  drifting  down  the  valley,  bring- 
ing with  them  a  cold,  drizzling  rain.  The  air  was  already 
damp  and  chill,  and  we  were  obliged  to  wrap  around  us  our 
heavy  overcoats  in  order  to  keep  out  the  penetrating  cold. 

At  seven  o'clock  we  rode  into  Georgetown,  a  pretty  little 
place   that  seems  as  though  it  had  been  dropped    into   the 


54  GEORGETOWN. 

Clear  Creek  Valley,  settling  itself  down  between  the  steep 
mountain  sides  and  resting  there  in  peaceful  security.  It 
forms  the  terminus  of  the  stage  line. 

Above  the  village,  some  six  miles  up  the  cafion,  begins 
that  snowy  tangle  of  mountains,  just  on  the  south-eastern 
corner  of  Middle  Park,  that  forms  the  only  barrier  to  the  un- 
obstructed entrance  into  the  region  of  parks  and  glens  beyond. 

At  present,  all  the  hotels  are  crowded  with  tourists  or 
transient  residents  spending  the  summer,  and  everything 
wears  on  air  of  life  and  bustle.  If  Georgetown  were  an  east- 
ern watering  resort,  the  same  idea  would  be  expressed  by 
saying  that  it  was  now  '*the  hight  of  the  season." 

All  along  Clear  Creek,  up  through  the  valley  is  the 
mining  region.  Every  now  and  then,  as  you  proceed,  you 
espy,  more  or  less  high  up  the  mountain  side,  little  holes 
pierced  into  the  solid  bed  of  the  rock,  and  extending  some 
distance  in  on  the  same  plane  with  the  entrance.  These 
are  the  mouths  of  tunnels,  which,  in  some  instances,  reach 
a  depth  of  eleven  hundred  feet. 

The  inhabitants  of  all  the  mountain  towns  are  composed 
mostly  of  miners,  but,  contrary  to  the  representations  of  my 
eastern  friends,  who  assured  me  that  they  were  a  half-civiliz- 
ed, blood-thirsty  and  boorish  community,  I  found  nothing  but 
politeness  ( not  what  we  call  "  etiquette  " ),  kindness  and  socia- 
bility. There  is  also  to  some  degree,  refinement  and  culture, 
but  owing  to  their  surroundings  the  former  rather  predomin- 
ates ;  I  mean  now  natural  refinement.  Of  course,  the  miners 
have  always  a  rough  exterior,  but  invariably  you  will  find  a 
kind  generous  heart  beneath.  Their  general  appearance 
argues  otherwise,  but  I  have  found  not  a  few  unpolished 
diamonds  among  these  hardy  frontiersmen. 


CHARACTER    OF   THE    INHABITANTS,  55 

We  Stopped  on  our  way  into  the  village  at  the  mail-office, 
then,  after  plashing  along  through  the  deserted  streets  for 
some  minutes  of  uninterrupted  silence,  we  drew  up  before  the 
door  of  the  Barton  House.  Alighting,  we  inquired  for  rooms  ; 
but  to  add  to  the  unpleasantness  of  our  situation,  we  were 
politely  informed  that  the  house  was  over-crowded,  but  that 
we  could  be  accommodated  without  inconvenience,  with  cots 
spread  upon  the  parlor  floor.  We  had  no  choice.  It  was  too 
wet  to  tramp  about  the  town  in  search  of  a  room,  and  as  we 
had  our  baggage  here,  we  determined  to  stay  with  it.  The 
rain  was  still  pouring,  and  nothing  was  visible,  either  up  or 
down  the  canon,  but  dense  volumes  of  vapor  filling  all  the 
the  space  between  the  mountain  sides. 

It  was  a  dismal  night,  but  we  were  obliged  to  brave  its 
inclemency  and  trudge  down  about  a  mile,  in  gum  coats,  caps, 
and  high  topped  boots,  to  see  the  livery  stable  man  and  engage 
our  animals  for  the  morrow's  journey  to  the  summit  of  Grey's 
Peak.  A  man  named  Campbell  was  at  last  found,  who  promis- 
ed us  the  animals,  so  we  returned  to  the  hotel  in  silence, 
there  being  no  inducement  to  begin  a  lively  conversation. 

On  entering  our  public  sleeping  room,  we  found  about  a 
dozen  others  already  in  possession.  Our  bed  was  pointed  out, 
and,  as  the  clerk  disappeared  through  the  half  open  door,  I 
will  close  it  to  all  beside. 

On  the  following  morning  we  were  called  at  five  o'clock, 
and  by  six  found  the  horses  in  waiting.  The  storm  had  clear- 
ed away  and  all  was  bright  and  cheerful.  The  first  beams  of 
the  morning  sun  gleamed  into  the  canon  through  the  rifts  in 
the  great  masses  of  vapor  that  fled  before  its  warmth.  Soon, 
the  bright  but  distant  orb  peeped  over  the  tops  of  the  moun- 
tains and  gladdened  all  by  his  enlivening  rays. 


56  THE    ASCENT   OF   GREY'S   PEAK. 

It  was  not  long  before  we  were  in  the  saddle  galloping 
gayly  over  the  wild,  mountain  roads.  It  was  a  glorious  morn- 
ing and  we  felt  the  effects  of  our  beautiful  and  romantic  sur- 
roundings, which  added  a  new  charm  to  this  invigorating  ride. 

It  is  fifteen  miles  from  Georgetown  to  the  peak,  but 
almost  before  we  were  aware  of  it,  we  had  reached  a  little 
place  consisting  of  a  few  log  cabins  and  a  saw  mill  that  is 
situated  at  the  foot  of  the  higher  range,  and  at  which  point  we 
were  to  leave  the  valley  and  begin  the  winding  ascent  to  the 
summit,  which  has  an  altitude  of  fourteen  thousand,  five  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet. 

We  now  found  the  journey  more  arduous.  It  was  a  hard 
climb  even  before  we  reached  the  timber  line,  for  these  rock- 
strewn  roads  are  killing  to  both  man  and  beast. 

After  we  had  ridden  for  some  nine  miles,  we  fell  in  with 
a  party  bound  upon  the  same  route.  There  was  a  lawyer 
named  Scanlin,  from  St.  Louis,  who  was  very  entertaining  and 
witty,  the  surveyor-general  of  Colorado  and  his  niece,  quite 
a  pretty  young  lady  from  New  Orleans,  whom  he  had  invited 
to  spend  the  summer  among  the  mountains.  She  was  a  real 
southern  girl,  and  surprised  us  all  by  her  perfect  horseman- 
ship and  extraordinary  bravery  in  climbing  over  the  rough 
rocks,  and  urging  her  horse  forward  along  the  very  brinks  of 
the  frightful  precipices,  that  every  now  and  then  imperiled  our 
ascent. 

When  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  were  over 
eleven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  were  even  be- 
yond the  extremest  limit  of  vegetation. 

We  stopped  and  looked  back.  At  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain we  could  just  peep  into  the  head  of  a  meadow,  where  a 
jungle  of  willow-bushes,  threaded  by  a  net-work  of  streams, 


THE   ASCENT   OF   GREY'S   PEAKE.  57 

lay  between  us  and  the  valley  bottom,  and  here  and  there, 
like  an  occasional  pearl,  set  in  a  back-ground  of  the  deepest 
emerald,  glimmered  a  patch  of  silvery-gray  sages.  At  other 
places  there  were  what  seemed  to  be  black-holes  in  the  ground, 
with  a  white  and  dotted  border,  but  which  were  in  reality  the 
burnt  forest  trees  standing,  gaunt  and  lifeless  after  the 
ravages  of  the  destroyer. 

Further  up,  just  at  the  beginning  of  the  ascent,  lay  the 
loveliest  meadow  park,  almost  a  mile  long,  opening  north- 
ward as  we  entered,  directly  toward  the  foot  of  the  great 
snowy  peak.  A  swift  brook  sped  down  it,  under  bowery 
thickets  and  past  clumps  of  trees  ;  the  turf  was  brilliantly 
green,  and  spangled  with  wild  flowers  ;  steep  mountain  slopes 
bordered  it  on  two  sides,  and  upon  the  others,  it  stretched 
down  toward  the  valley.  Nothing  could  have  been  more  un- 
expected than  the  change  from  aspen  woods  and  silvery  hills 
of  sage,  to  this  green,  pine-enframed  landscape. 

Higher  still,  snow-drifts  made  their  appearance  where  the 
shade  was  deepest,  and  the  few  aspens  and  alders  were  just 
putting  forth  their  leaves. 

From  our  great  hight  we  looked  down  into  a  narrow, 
winding  glen,  between  lofty  parapets  of  rock,  and  beheld 
mountains  in  the  distance,  flecked  with  dark  shadows  and 
vanishing  in  clouds. 

Opposite  to  us,  above  the  silvery  gray  of  the  sage-bush, 
above  the  pearly  whiteness  of  the  aspen,  above  the  emerald 
green  of  the  fir,  rose  huge  mountain  foundations,  where  the 
grassy  openings  were  pale,  the  forest  dark,  the  glens  and 
gorges  filled  with  shadow,  the  rocks  touched  with  lines  of 
light — making  a  checquered  effect  that  suggested  cultivation 
and  old  settlement.  Beyond  these  were  wilder  ridges,  all 
forest  ;  then  bare  masses  of  rock,  streaked  with  snow,  and. 


58  THE   VIEW   FROM    THE   SUMMIT. 

highest  of  all,  the  bleak  snow-pyramids,  piercing  the  sky. 
From  south  to  north  stretched  the  sublime  wall — the  western 
boundary  of  the  Middle  Park  ;  and  where  it  fell  away  toward 
the  canon  by  which  North  Clear  Creek  enters  the  heart  of  the 
chain  in  its  course  to  the  foot  of  Snake  Valley,  there  was  a 
vision  of  dim,  rosy  peaks,  a  hundred  miles  distant.  Other 
snowy  summits  appeared  before  us,  overlooking  the  head  of 
Blue  River  Valley  ;  charming  valleys  opened  among  the  near- 
er mountains,  and  the  blue,  hazy  mist  around  the  heads  of  the 
steeper  canons,  only  added  an  indistinctness  which  softened 
the  wild  ruggedness  of  their  outlines. 

But  we  could  not  stop  longer  even  to  enjoy  such  a  view, 
so  we  urged  our  now  rested  animals  over  the  rough  fragments 
of  crumbled  rocks,  and  loose,  sliding  stones,  at  a  speed  which 
was  even  more  fatiguing  than  the  first  ascent.  All  around 
us  lay  patches  of  snow  which  reflected  the  dazzling  sunlight 
in  a  thousand  hues. 

Although  we  had  felt  the  gradual  change  from  a  denser 
to  a  rarer  atmosphere  as  we  ascended,  we  were  not  quite  pre- 
pared for  the  lightness  of  the  air  which  we  now  experienced. 
Every  few  steps  compelled  us  to  stop  and  regain  our  breath — 
we  could  feel  our  hearts  thumping  up  against  our  sides  with 
alarminj  irregularity,  while  the  poor  horses  almost  gasped 
for  breath  under  their  heavy  burdens.  It  was  hard  work  ; 
sometimes  we  fancied  that  we  could  get  along  by  walking, 
much  easier,  but  after  about  ten  feet  of  floundering  and 
scrambling,  we  were  glad  to  climb  upon  our  horses  again  and 
were  not  so  thoughtful  afterward  of  their  welfare.  The 
climbing  was  fearful.  The  path  lay  among  the  most  jagged 
rocks  and  the  most  frightful  chasms.  Mr.  Scanlin  declared 
that  he  was  actually  afraid  to  look  down,  for  nothing  but 
about  eight  inches  of  stone    lay  between  him  and    a  terrible 


THE   VIEW   FROM   THE   SUMMIT.  59 

death.  The  side  was  so  steep,  that  with  but  little  effort  one 
could  cast  a  small  piece  of  rock  clear  to  the  bottom,  several 
thousand  feet  below.  At  times,  the  horses  seemed  to  give 
out,  and  would  stop,  utterly  unable  to  proceed  another  step 
without  rest.  The  angle  of  ascent  could  not  have  been  less 
than  fifty-five  or  sixty  degrees.  About  two  hundred  yards 
from  the  top,  the  path  terminated  in  an  irregular  mass  of  rock 
that  blocked  all  further  progress  ;  so  we  dismounted,  and 
tying  the  rein  around  a  stone,  let  it  fall,  and  so  secured  the 
animals.  Before  attempting  the  remainder  of  the  distance 
which  we  had  to  accomplish  on  foot,  we  sat  down  and  partook 
of  the  abundant  and  well  assorted  lunch  which  the  landlord 
had  kindly  put  into  our  saddle-bags. 

After  satisfying  our  hunger  and  feeling  greatly  refreshed 
and  invigorated  both  by  the  rest  and  eatables,  we  prepared  to 
ascend.  We  had  hard  scrambling  and  wearisome  windings 
before  us  ;  but  we  trudged  on,  stopping  every  three  or  four 
steps  to  rest.  At  last  we  rose  above  the  crest.  What  a  view 
greeted  us  as  we  wound  up  over  the  last  ridge  of  rock  and 
stood  upon  the  summit !  On  one  side,  stretched  far  away  the 
Pacific  Slope,  an  undulating  ocean  of  snowy  mountains  ;  on 
the  other,  the  Atlantic  Slope,  with  an  equal  share  of  peaks  and 
valleys,  and  beyond,  the  Plains  just  visible.  With  one  grand 
sweep  we  could  overlook  the  country  for  two  htindred  miles 
around.  In  breadth  of  effect,  in  airy  depth  and  expansion,  in 
simple,  yet  most  majestic  outline,  and  in  originality,  yet  ex- 
quisite harmony,  of  color,  this  landscape  is  unlike  anything  we 
had  ever  seen. 

Northward,    we  looked  down  the   long,  green  meadows 

with  their  enclosing  slopes  of  forest,  to  a  line  of  snow-clad 

peaks  in  the  middle  distance,  and  then  to  a  higher  and  fainter 

line,  rosily  flushed,  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  away — the  north- 

H 


6o  THE   VIEW   FROM   THE   SUMMIT. 

ern  wall  of  San  Louis  Park.  Southward,  is  the  valley  of  the 
Platte,  a  deep,  gray-green  trough,  curving  out  of  sight  among 
the  lower  ranges,  while  beyond  it,  the  increasing  dimness  of 
each  line  of  mountains,  told  of  broad,  invisible  parks  and 
plains  between  ;  and  the  farthest  peaks,  scarcely  to  be  de- 
tached from  the  air,  were  the  merest  azure  phantoms. 

Directly  to  the  west  of  us,  however,  rose  a  knot  of  tre- 
mendous snowy  steeps,  crowned  by  a  white,  unbroken  cone; 
this  was  Mount  Lincoln,  believed  to  be  the  highest  point  in 
Colorado.  The  estimates  vary  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  thous- 
and feet  ;  but  the  most  trustworthy  measurement,  and  that 
which  corresponds  with  its  apparent  elevation  above  this  peak, 
is  sixteen  thousand,  six  hundred  feet.  It  is  the  central  point 
from  which  at  least,  four  snowy  ranges  radiate  ;  is  one  thous- 
and feet  above  any  peak  which  has  yet  been  measured,  and 
commands  a  magnificent  view  of  the  whole  range,  both  north 
and  south,  far  surpassing  even  that  from  Grey's  Peak. 

The  timber  line  was  far,  far  below  us  ;  near  at  hand  we 
were  surrounded  by  a  desolation  of  snow  and  naked  rock. 
Mount  Lincoln,  rising  in  his  awful  majesty  from  amid  the 
clouds  below  us,  gathered  together  the  white  fold?  of  the  sepa- 
rating mountain  ranges  and  set  his  supreme  pyramid  over 
them  ;  while  far  to  the  south  east,  where  the  sage-plains  of 
South  Park  stretch  for  a  hundred  miles,  all  features  were  lost 
in  a  soft,  purple  mist. 

Before  us,  however,  lay  the  crowning  grandeur.  The 
ridge,  upon  which  we  stood,  slid  down  like  the  roof  of  a  house, 
to  the  valley  of  the  Upper  Arkansas,  which  we  could  trace  to 
the  very  fountain-head  of  the  river,  its  pine  groves  and  long 
meandering  lines  of  cotton-wood  drawn  upon  a  field  of  pearly 
grayish-green. 


A   STORM   AMONCx   THE   MOUNTAINS.  6i 

Starting  from  Mount  Lincoln,  the  eye  follows  the  central 
chain  in  a  wide  semicircle  around  the  head  of  the  valley,  un- 
til it  faces  us  on  the  opposite  side,  and  then  keeps  on  its  course 
southward,  on  and  ever  on,  slowly  fading  into  air,  a  hundred 
miles  of  eternal  snow  ! 

Beyond  the  great  valley,  glimmered,  as  if  out  of  blue  air, 
the  rosy  snow  of  other  and  farther  ranges.  Westward,  sev- 
enty miles  distant,  stood  the  lonely  Sopris  Peak,  higher  than 
Mont  Blanc. 

This  scene  of  mountain  grandeur,  in  its  singular  combi- 
nations of  subdued  coloring  and  varied  form,  is  unsurpassed. 
No  language  is  adequate  to  portray  its  manifold  and  ever  un- 
expected beauties :  no  words  capable  of  conveying  a  com- 
prehensive impression  of  its  overcoming  majesty.  It  is  at 
once  simple,  sublime,  and  boundless.  With  a  very  clear  at- 
mosphere, the  effect  might  be  different ;  as  we  saw  it,  the 
farthest  peaks  and  ranges  melted  insensibly  out  of  the  scope 
of  vision,  suggesting  almost  incredible  distances.  The  snow- 
line, though  broken  by  ravines,  was  quite  uniform  ;  but  the 
snows  were  flushed  with  such  an  endless  variety  of  colors, 
that  they  presented  a  beauty  of  the  rarest  kind.  This  land- 
scape alone  is  worth  coming  across  the  Plains  to  behold. 
To  add  to  the  sublimity  of  the  scene,  a  thunder-storm  came 
up.  When  first  noticed  as  a  long,  blue  bank  of  clouds,  it 
hung  over  the  range  to  the  north-west.  Soon  dense  masses 
of  vapor  began  to  pour  over  the  summits  of  the  surrounding 
peaks,  and  envelop,  as  in  a  misty  veil,  both  hills  and  valleys. 
The  lightning  flashed,  and  the  thunder  rolled,  the  reverber- 
ations among  a  hundred  rocky  carions,  causing  a  prolonged 
rumble,  as  of  distant  cannonading.  Soon  we  were  in  the 
midst  of  driving  snow  and  rain.  It  was  very  cold,  and  we 
were  bundled  up  in  blankets,  heavy  gum-coats  and  capes,  and 


62  A  STORM   AMONG   THE   MOUNTAINS. 

thick  over-coats,  and  even  theyi,  felt  the  piercing  blast  that 
came  whistling  across  the  ravine.  However,  it  did  not  last 
long,  for  as  there  is  always  one  storm  which  never  abates,  but 
keeps  ever  moving  about  over  the  range,  it  does  not  rest  over 
any  particular  spot  for  a  great  length  of  time.  As  the  last 
volume  of  mist  went  drifting  away  to  the  eastward,  a  glori- 
ous view  broke  upon  our  delighted  vision.  We  could  now  see 
for  many  miles  to  the  westward,  but  there  were  mountains 
and  mountains  everywhere  ;  an  arctic  labyrinth,  with  a  dark 
blue  ground.  White,  red,  and  blue,  in  striking  contrast,  and 
yet  in  perfect  harmony,  with  a  dash  of  jet  black  streaking  the 
dazzling  cones  with  a  seam  that  could  only  have  been 
grooved  by  the  elements,  in  ages  ;  all  this  we  took  in  at 
one  glance. 

Each  of  us,  in  turn,  climbed  up  and  stood  upon  the  top- 
most stone  of  a  little  pyramid  of  rocks  that  crowns  the  very 
highest  spot,  took  the  American  flag,  and  waving  it  on  high 
with  one  hand,  and  swinging  our  hats  with  the  other,  sang 
''America,"  and  gave  three  loud,  long  cheers  for  the  land  of 
the  free  and  the  home  of  the  brave.  We  never  thought  so 
much  of  our  country  before  ;  with  even  a  stronger  patriotism 
than  usual,  we  celebrated  the  fourth  of  July  on  this  last  day 
of  the  same  month.  It  was  a  glorious  pinnacle.  The 
highest  spot  on  the  range,  on  the  very  back-bone  of  the 
continent,  where,  should  we  pour  a  half  pale  of  water 
upon  one  side,  and  another  on  the  opposite  side,  these 
halves  would  flow,  respectively,  into  the  Atlantic  and  Pacific 
Oceans. 

On  either  side  we  saw  the  streams  flowing  away  from  us. 
Down  the  Pacific  slope  we  could  trace,  for  over  a  hundred 
miles,  the  course  of  Snake  River,  winding  like  a  silver  thread 
among  the  bases  of  the  apparently  miniature  mountains.     It 


THE   DESCENT.  63 

is  strange  what  a  diminuefying  efifect  is  given  by  these  im- 
mense altitudes  to  objects  less  high.  We  could  look  down 
toward  the  south  into  South  Park,  also  into  Middle  Park,  and 
just  peep  over  a  spur  of  the  main  chain  into  San  Louis  Park, 
below  us,  to  the  north. 

We  now  saw  that  another  portion  of  the  storm  was  ap- 
proaching from  the  southeast,  so  we  reluctantly  began  the 
descent.  While  occupying  such  an  elevated  position,  we  were 
very  liable  to  become  the  objective  points  for  the  flashes  of 
lightning,  which  darted  from  one  cloud  to  another  with  a 
vividness,  which  far  surpassed  anything  we  had  witnessed  in 
the  valley.  It  was  impossible  to  remount  our  horses  until  a 
certain  point,  nearly  two  thousand  feet  below  us,  had  been 
reached.  We  passed  among  great  whit^  slants  of  snow  that 
had  lodged  under  the  cornice  of  the  mountain,  and  scram- 
bled over  or  slid  down  among  the  loose  and  sharp  edged 
rocks  that  lay  right  in  the  zig-zag,  headlong  path.  We  kept 
this  up  for  over  two  miles,  when  we  reached  a  small  plateau 
of  grassy  turf,  nearly  at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  with  trem- 
bling knees  and  dripping  faces.  The  rain  now  descended  in 
great  sheets,  flooding  the  already  foaming  torrents  and  wet- 
ting us  through,  even  before  we  had  time  to  dismount  and 
unpack  and  don  our  gum  suits.  We  rode  on,  forming  rather 
a  straggly,  dejected  looking  procession  ;  the  rain  dripping 
from  the  corners  of  our  capes  and  coats  into  our  boot  tops, 
and  slowly  trickling  down  inside,  wetting  us  to  the  skin.  In 
this  manner,  we  plodded  along  through  the  deep  mud  and 
cold  wintry  gusts  of  wind,  for  more  than  an  hour  and  a  half 
before  we  reached  Bakersville,  at  the  head  of  the  valley.  We 
stopped  here  and  warmed  our  stiffened  limbs  beside  the  stove, 
but  soon  seeing  that  the  rain  had  ceased,  we  remounted  and 
turned  our  jaded  horses   heads   toward  Georgetown,  twelve 


64  THE   DESCENT. 

long  miles  away.  It  was  seven  o'clock  before  we  reached  our 
destination.  We  had  not  carried  on  a  very  lively  conversa- 
tion during  our  homeward  ride,  and  by  this  time  felt  tired, 
wet,  and  out  of  humor. 


CHAPTER     IV. 

The  Burleigh  Tunnel. — Machine  Drilling. —  The  Composition  of 
the  Silver  Ore. —  The  Reduction  Process. — Our  Mountain 
Party. --Scenery  along  the  New  Trail.— Crossing  the  Range. 
—  The  First  Mountain  Rabbit. — Lost  among  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  —  A  Comic  Scene —  The  Head  of  the  Platte.  — 
Another  Funny  Adventure. —  The  Ride  to  Hepborn's  Ranch. 

We  engaged  rooms  at  a  different  hotel,  where  we  ob- 
tained comfortable  quarters,  and  retired  early  to  recruit  our 
exhausted  energies.  We  had  intended  starting  at  six  o'clock 
on  the  next  morning,  in  the  stage  for  Idaho  Springs,  from 
whence  we  were  to  strike  across  the  country  on  mule-back 
for  a  distance  of,  perhaps,  thirty  miles,  to  the  intersection  of 
the  trail  with  the  Tarryall  road  into  South  Park,  and  pursue 
that  route  to  Fair  Play,  a  little  village  at  the  head  of  the 
Park  ;  but  we  were  so  fatigued  by  our  yesterday's  climbing, 
that  it  as  was  as  much  as  we  could  do  to  move  our  sore  bodies 
from  one  spot  to  another.  So  we  gave  up  that  plan  and  de- 
termined to  remain  in  Georgetown  another  day.  Having 
come  to  this  wise  decision,  we  cast  about  us  for  some  pleas- 
ant and  profitable  way  in  which  to  spend  our  time,  and  finally 
concluded  that  a  visit  to  the  gold  and  silver  mines  of  the 
**  Clear  Creek  Mining  Region  "  would  be  both  instructive  and 
entertaining. 

Having  ordered  a  pair  of  horses  and  a  buggy,  we  were 
soon  on  our  way  up  the  Silver  Gulch.     The  mountain   roads 


66  THE   BURLEIGH   TUNNEL. 

are  none  of  the  best,  as  I  before  remarked,  so  it  occupied 
over  an  hour  to  ride  about  three  miles.  We  carried  with  us 
a  letter  of  introduction  to  the  proprietors  of  the  Burleigh 
tunnel,  from  a  gentlemen  of  position  in  Georgetown,  so  that 
we  were  particularly  fortunate  during  our  visit.  One  of  the 
firm  was  absent,  but  we  met  Mr.  Burleigh,  a  very  pleasant 
and  gentlemanly  man.  He  first  exhibited  and  explained  the 
machinery  outside  the  tunnel.  This  is  the  largest  mine  in 
the  district,  and  the  only  one  which  accomplishes  all  its  drill- 
ing by  machinery.  The  engines  are  worked  by  means  of  con- 
densed air.  In  this  way  steam  and  its  appurtenances  are  en- 
tirely dispensed  with,  and  apparently  without  sustaining  any 
loss  of  power,  or  in  any  other  way  suffering  a  disadvantage. 
On  the  contrary,  the  cost  of  the  working  is  less,  because  the 
fuel  is  not  needed  which  would  be  necessary  for  a  steam  en- 
gine. It  is  not  nearly  so  dangerous  as  the  other  would  be. 
With  the  known  data,  viz  :  the  numerical  value  of  the  volu- 
metric increase  of  common  air,  at  zero  degrees  and  ordinary 
pressure,  and  the  co-efficient  expansion  of  air,  they  calcu- 
late that  an  engine  of  four  hundred  horse-power  will  do  the 
work  of  drilling,  at  a  distance  of  eleven  hundred  feet,  with 
regular  four-pronged  "irons,"  as, they  called  them,  being  the 
drilling  chisels.  There  is  a  slight  correction  to  be  added  for 
the  temperature  of  the  tunnel,  and  the  length  and  diameter 
of  the  pipe  leading  into  the  lode. 

After  a  thorough  and  satisfactory  examination  of  the 
outer  works,  he  proposed  sending  us  in  on  a  hand-car.  Can- 
dles were  procured,  and  we  seated  ourselves  upon  a  rough 
board  that  crossed  the  sides  of  the  car. 

A  miner  came  and  pushed  us  along  the  iron  track.  It  was 
the  blackness  of  Egypt  about  us  from  the  moment  we  left 
the   mouth   of  the   tunnel.     By   holding   our  candles    up,  we 


THE  BURLEIGH  TUNNEL.  6^ 

could  see  above  us  the  damp  walls  glistening  in  the  light. 
Underneath  us  at  some  depth,  ran  a  drain  to  carry  off  the 
water  always  accompanying  the  ore  in  the  bed.  Near  the 
wall  we  could  trace  the  course  of  the  india-rubber  pipe  lead- 
ing in  from  the  engine  outside.  Nothing  was  visible  either 
behind  or  before  us.     All  was  black. 

We  now  experienced  a  strong  odor  of  powder  smoke, 
which  the  guide  told  us  was  from  a  blast  which  had  occured 
about  two  hours  before  we  entered.  It  was  fortunate  that 
the  explosion  was  over,  for  the  concussion  is  in  most  instances 
so  violent  that  when  one  takes  place  at  the  end  of  the  mine, 
a  distance  of  eleven  hundred  feet  from  the  outer  air,  the  stout 
roof  of  plank  that  covers  the  entrance  is  torn  off,  and  the  men 
knocked  down.  Even  the  miners  who  remain  in  the  side 
avenues  have  their  hats  and  shoe-soles  jerked  off  and  their 
breath  taken,  instantly,  from  them. 

The  farther  we  proceeded  the  colder  and  damper  it  be- 
came. The  air  seemed  to  weigh  upon  us  ;  and  it  was  with 
difficulty  that  we  could  inhale  it  in  sufficient  quantities  to  pre- 
vent giddiness.  After  rumbling  along  for  some  time  in  silence, 
now  and  then  passing  a  crevasse,  where  we  saw  the  miners  at 
work  with  pick  and  shovel,  and  after  being  subjected  to  the 
continual  dropping  of  cold  water  from  the  rocky  ceiling 
above  us,  we  at  last  heard  a  confused  noise,  sounding  like  a 
distant  cataract  ;  but  as  yet,  could  see  nothing.  Soon,  how- 
ever, a  tiny,  dim  ray  of  light  was  pointed  out  to  us  by  our 
guide,  who  informed  us  that  it  was  from  a  candle  held  by  one 
of  the  miners  at  the  end  of  the  tunnel,  and  where  the  machine 
drilling  was  in  operation.  It  was  the  terrible  noise  of  the 
drills  as  they  struck  the  solid  rock  that  we  had  perceived  for 
some  time  past.  Having  reached  the  spot,  we  alighted  and 
stood  for  some  time,  watching  the  immense  chisels  as  they 
1 


6S  MACHINE   DRILLING. 

glided  in  and  out  of  the  iron  caps,  striking,  with  tremendous 
force  the  granite  walls,  and  revolving  with  inconceivable 
velocity,  at  the  moment  of  impact.  All  this  was  accompani- 
ed by  a  deafening  roar  and  clatter,  so  that  it  was  just  as  much 
as  we  could  do  to  make  ourselves  audible,  even  when  placing 
our  lips  at  each  other's  ears,  and  yelling  at  the  top  of  our 
voices.  Consequently  the  conversation  was  not  very  brisk, 
and  almost  every  communication  was  made  exclusively  by 
signs.  It  was  a  curious  and  interesting  pantomime  to  see  the 
workmen  motioning  to  each  other  in  the  most  laughable  and 
idiotic  manner.  Of  course  they  meant  something  by  each 
gesture,  but  we  novices,  could  not  understand  a  thing,  so  we 
enjoyed  ourselves  at  their  expense. 

At  the  side  of  the  cap  in  which  the  drilling  piston  work- 
ed, was  an  aperture  to  admit  of  the  free  escape  of  the  con- 
densed air,  after  having  accomplished  its  mission.  We  were 
directed  to  place  our  hands  before  this  opening,  but  the  in- 
stant we  did  so,  they  were  flung  back  against  the  rock  with 
great  violence.  It  was  impossible  to  check  the  rush  of  air. 
One  could  lay  hold  of  it,  almost  as  if  it  were  a  stick  of  wood 
or  a  bar  of  iron.  Think  of  the  terrible  force  with  which  it  was 
ejected. 

Having  now  seen  everything  of  interest  in  the  mine,  we 
again  seated  ourselves  upon  the  car,  and  were  wheeled  back 
again  toward  the  outer  world.  It  is  a  fearful  place  in  which 
to  work.  I  cannot  imagine  what  induces  these  miners  to 
spend  their  lives  in  such  a  dungeon  as  the  Burleigh  tunnel. 
At  its  extremity  we  were  over  a  thousand  feet  below  the 
surface  of  the  mountain  slope.  On  our  way  out,  we  stopped 
a  moment  to  obtain  some  specimens  of  the  ore  from  a  lode 
that  intersected  the  tunnel  almost  at  right  angles. 


THE   COMPOSITION   OF   THE   SILVER    ORE.  69 

After  reaching  the  open  air  we  delivered  up  what  re- 
mained of  our  candles,  feeling  that  we  **had  had  enough",  of 
underground  traveling.  On  again  conversing  with  Mr.  B., 
we  learned  some  very  interesting  facts  connected  with  this 
mine.  This  lead  yields  four  or  five  ounces  of  pure  silver  to 
the  ton,  being  in  value  about  forty  five  dollars.  There  is  no 
brittle  silver.  The  ore  is  composed  of  the  following  elements 
and  compounds.  Silver,  galena,  (sulphide  of  lead),  copper, 
both  native,  in  hexagonal  cubes  of  the  trimetric  system,  and 
in  combination;  iron  pyrites,  a  slight  trace  of  manganese,  also 
a  small  quantity  of  mica  and  other  calcareous  matters,  and 
what  is  called  "gang,"  a  kind  of  worthless  stone.  It  is  a 
very  complex  ore,  but  one  from  which  large  quantities  of 
silver  are  extracted. 

The  crushing  and  reduction  processes  I  will  describe 
hereafter. 

Bidding  Mr.  B.  good  morning,  we  rode  some  miles  fur- 
ther up  the  valley  to  visit  the  ''Terrible"  mine.  This  mine  is 
the  richest  silver  mine  in  the  region,  yielding  over  eight 
hundred  dollars  per  ton  ;  some  of  the  gold  mines,  however, 
yield  over  one  thousand.  The  Terrible  is  worked  entirely  by 
hand,  having  both  a  shaft  and  a  tunnel.  The  lode  is  only 
from  one  eighth  of  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  width,  that  of  the 
Burleigh  tunnel  being  two  inches. 

We  now  visited  several  other  silver  mines,  among  which 
were  the  Cashier  and  the  Sage,  &c.,  but  finding  that  we  had 
just  enough  time  to  reach  the  hotel  before  dinner,  we  decided 
to  abandon  our  plan  of  going  into  the  gold  mines,  and  take 
those  we  had  seen,  as  the  representatives  of  their  class,  and 
return. 

In  the  afternoon  we  walked  down  to  the  reduction  works, 
which  are  situated  but  a  short  distance  from  the  hotel,  and 


JO  THE   REDUCTION   PROCESS. 

spent  an  hour  and  a  half  very  profitably  in  studying  the  ope- 
rations by  which  the  rough,  unseemly  ore  is  transformed  into 
the  bright,  glistening,  and  costly  metal. 

First  of  all  they  shovel  it  into  a  large  machine  which 
crushes  it  very  fine,  after  which,  if  there  is  any  that  has  es- 
caped this  process,  it  is  taken  up  into  a  high,  wooden  dust- 
flue,  from  which  it  runs  into  the  "pulverizer,"  through  a  long, 
wooden  channel,  and  from  whence  it  is  returned  as  the  soft- 
est powder.  Now,  a  certain  quantity  is  put  into  each  of  sev- 
eral large  revolving  hogsheads,  and  quicksilver,  which  is  the 
proto-chloride  of  mercury,  is  poured  in  also.  These  sub- 
stances form  an  amalgam  which  is  then  composed  of  chloride 
of  silver  and  sulphide  of  mercury,  and  probably  a  little  phos- 
phide of  mercury,  together  with  all  the  comlpex  silicates  of 
aluminum,  which  are  the  principal  ingredients  of  the  soil. 
After  amalgamation,  the  silver  is  placed  in  a  retort  and  heat- 
ed to  a  very  high  temperature.  Old  horse  shoes  or  other 
scraps  of  iron  are  now  introduced  to  act  as  general  reducing 
agents,  instead  of  sodium  or  potassium.  The  chlorine  unites 
with  the  iron,  forming  chloride  of  iron,  and  the  silver  is  pre- 
cipitated in  the  form  of  pure  metal.  The  chlorine  fumes  are 
conducted  out  of  the  building  by  means  of  a  special  draft- 
chimney.  Here  is  the  whole  process,  and  yet,  simple  as  it 
really  is,  it  occupies  considerable  time,  and  many  men.  The 
metal  is  finally  cast  into  small  ingots  and  shipped.  Perhaps 
I  have  tired  you  with  this  detailed  account,  but  I  have,  as  my 
excuse,  the  desire  of  affording  the  practical  profit  of  knowing 
just  how  the  precious  metals  are  extracted  from  the  earth  and 
separated  from  all  contaminations.  After  all,  perhaps,  it  is 
worth  the  reading. 

In  the  evening  we  indulged  in  a  moonlight  walk  some 
distance  down  the  caiion,  but  returning  early,  went  to  bed, 
satisfied  with  our  day's  experience. 


OUR   MOUNTAIN   PARTY.  7I 

On  Wednesday  morning  at  seven -forty-five,  we  started, 
according  to  former  determination,  on  mule-back,  for  Fair 
Play,  in  South  Park.  We  had  procured  the  mules  and  a  little 
pack-jack,  with  a  boy  to  attend  to  the  animals.  I  must  give 
a  place  to  these  two  latter  personages,  the  boy  and  the  jack. 
They  formed  the  funniest  team  you  ever  saw.  Charley  was 
only  twelve  years  old,  and  the  jack  about  the  same  age. 
Charley  was  a  mighty  cute  boy,  sharp  as  a  steel-trap  and  full 
of  fun  ;  the  jack  was  just  the  opposite  ;  dumb,  slow  and  con- 
trary. The  only  thing  in  which  they  resembled  each  other 
was  in  being  small.  Any  other  person  but  Charley  would 
have  touched  the  ground  with  his  heels,  but  in  this  case,  ani- 
mal and  rider  just  fitted  and  suited  each  other. 

In  the  gayest  spirits,  we  set  out  on  our  long  ride  over 
the  range.  It  was  to  occupy  two  days,  for  we  were  going  to 
attempt  to  cross  the  mountains  by  a  newly  discovered  and 
very  difficult  trail.  Few  had  gone  in  this  way,  so  we  felt 
rather  elated  at  our  prospects  for  an  adventure.  Some  miles 
from  the  town  we  fell  in  with  a  party  of  four  gentlemen  with 
their  guides  and  pack-mule.  Of  course  we  at  once  formed  a 
party  and  traveled  in  company.  Indeed,  it  was  quite  an  ob- 
ject to  obtain  companions  of  almost  any  kind  on  such  a  long 
and  rough  journey. 

The  trail  led  through  the  wildest,  grandest  country  one 
can  imagine.  No  one  who  has  never  experienced  this  ride, 
can  possibly  form  a  correct  idea  of  its  ruggedness  and  its 
glorious  mountain  scenery.  I  cannot  picture  it.  Rocks, 
boulders,  tall  pines,  thickets,  roots,  mud-holes,  trailing  vines, 
open  glens,  steep  ascents,  steep  descents,  winding,  rocky 
palhs,  jutting  promontories,  deep  gulleys,  wide,  rushing 
■Bams,  clear  ground,  lakes,  thick  forest,  prostrate  timber, 
sloping,  green,  grassy  hill-sides,  huge,  slippery  logs,  marshes, 


72  SCENERY   ALONG   THE   NEW   ROUTE. 

bogs,  precipices,  gorges,  little  ravines,  rocky  glens,  tumbling 
cataracts,  quiet,  clear  rivulets,  almost  insurmountable  bights, 
stony  mountain  sides,  overhanging,  twisted  branches,  prickly 
bushes,  copses  of  sa.g&  and  aspen  brush,  open  woods,  green, 
velvety  meadows,  and  every  other  feature  of  the  wildest 
mountain  landscape,  met  us  at  every  turn.  At  one  moment 
we  were  galloping  swiftly  over  the  turf,  crowning  a  sharp 
ridge,  at  the  next  floundering  in  a  spongy,  quicksand  bog, 
that  yielded  under  the  hoofs  of  our  animals,  sinking  them  in 
two  or  three  feet  of  marshy  soil.  Now  we  would  move  slowly 
along,  step  by  step  picking  our  way  among  trailing  creepers 
and  over  rough  stones  and  fallen  tree-trunks,  then  plunge  bold- 
ly into  a  foaming  mountain  torrent,  and  ford  it  with  the  great- 
est difficulty.  It  was  almost  impossible  for  the  horses  and 
mules  to  avoid  stumbling  upon  the  loose,  rolling  stones  in 
crossing  a  fearful  "slide",  slipping  from  the  smooth  surface  of 
a  rock  in  crossing  a  narrow  gorge,  or  sliding  upon  the  sand  on 
the  steep  mountain  side.  Having  almost  attained  the  sum- 
mit of  the  range,  we  camped  for  dinner  in  a  sequestered  glen 
or  plateau  just  on  the  verge  of  the  timber  line. 

It  was  very  picturesque  to  watch  the  eight  or  nine  horses 
and  mules  grazing  upon  the  rich  grass  of  the  clearing,  each 
with  a  lariet  dangling  from  his  neck  and  trailing  along  the 
ground,  and  to  see  the  camp,  strewn  with  the  paraphernalia  of 
backwood's  life.  In  the  center  of  a  natural  rotunda,  formed 
by  four  large  pine  trees,  burned  the  camp  fire,  upon  which 
simmered  the  coffee  pot,  while,  lounging  around,  laughing, 
talking  and  preparing  the  meal,  was  the  hungriest,  jolliest 
group  of  individuals  you  ever  saw. 

After  spending  the  noon  hour  here,  in  rest,  we  broke 
camp  and  trudged  along  again,  making  a  still  greater  asceitt 
until    we    halted  upon  the  broad,  rocky  crest  of  the    ridge. 


THE   FIRST   MOUNTAIN   RABBIT.  73 

Here  and  there  bunches  of  brush,  or  an  occasional  grove 
of  stunted  aspens  met  the  eye,  while  the  grass  grew  in  straggly 
patches  only  a  few  inches  in  hight.  As  we  were  crossing  a 
belt  of  low  willows  that  hemmed  in  the  trail  on  either  side, 
there  suddenly  sprang  up  a  huge  mountain  rabbit,  leaving  the 
thicket  and  bounding  up  the  steep  slope  to  the  right.  He 
stopped  somewhere  upon  the  brow  of  a  little  knoll  about  two 
hundred  yards  distant.  A  young  fellow  named  Henry  Scott 
and  myself  started  in  pursuit,  but  spent  the  next  half  hour  in 
beating  the  bushes,  all  to  no  purpose  ;  however,  while  we 
were  gone,  two  or  three  other  fine  fellows  were  "  sprung  "  by  the 
rest  of  the  party.  Unfortunately,  none  were  killed.  They 
are  excellent  game,  as  they  average  four  or  five  times  the  size 
of  our  eastern  rabbits.  There  was  not  one  in  our  party,  not 
excepting  the  guides,  who  did  not  think  this  fellow  was  an 
antelope  when  we  first  caught  sight  of  him. 

Having  with  difficulty  descended  the  steep  side  of  the 
range  for  some  distance,  we  suddenly  found  ourselves  com- 
pletely at  a  loss  as  to  where  we  should  strike  the  Platte  Val- 
ley trail,  as  there  had  been  none  to  follow  immediately  upon 
leaving  the  summit.  It  was  in  vain  that  we  scrambled  first 
in  one  direction,  then  in  another  ;  we  were  lost.  Lost  on  the 
Rocky  Mountains  !  Matters  now  began  to  take  a  more  serious 
turn,  fortnight  was  fast  throwing  her  long  shadows  upon  the 
mountain  sides,  and  the  forest  about  us  we  knew  to  be  infest- 
ed by  grizzly  bears  and  panthers,  not  to  speak  of  black  bears, 
wild  cats  and  elk,  with  all  the  other  regular  denizens  of  the 
woods.  To  add  spice  to  the  adventure,  a  storm  gathered 
and  burst  upon  us,  even  before  we  had  noticed  any  premonitory 
indications.  Day  was  rapidly  fading  into  twilight  and  soon 
^^pwilight  would  vanish  into  night,  and  then  !  what  should 
^^do  .-*     Stopping  many  times  to  hold  a  council  to  determine 


74  LOST   AMONG   THE   ROCKY   MOUNTAINS. 

concerning  the  best  course  to  be  pursued,  we  spent  nearly  an 
hour  in  reaching  the  edge  of  the  valley.  We  started  in  every 
direction,  but  would  always  come  to  an  impassable  bog  or  a  too 
dense  forest,  so  that  in  every  instance  we  only  made  matters 
worse,  for  we  knew  not  whether  we  were  ever  increasing 
the  distance  between  us  and  the  much  desired  trail.  At  last, 
almost  fagged  out,  we  reached  the  low  valley-bottom,  but  only 
to  increase  our  peril.  Here  we  found  ourselves  in  the  midst 
of  an  apparently  endless  bog  and  thicket.  Whichever  way 
we  turned,  whether  up  through  the  timber  again  or  toward 
the  Platte  river,  which  we  could  hear  rushing  down  the 
center  of  the  ravine  over  its  stony  bed,  it  was  all  the  same  ; 
no  trail  could  be  discovered. 

Once  or  twice  there  would  arise  a  joyous  shout  from  some 
member  of  the  party,  who  had  at  last  found  it,  but  it  always 
turned  out  to  be  a  deer  "run-away",  through  which  they 
come  down  in  the  evenings  from  their  beds  among  the  moun- 
tains to  drink  at  their '!  licks ",  which  were  noticeable  every 
few  hundred  yards. 

We  sent  out  scouts,  both  on  foot  and  horseback,  in  all 
directions,  and  at  length  by  this  means  discovered  a  danger- 
ous, though  not  wholly  impassable  deer  trail  to  the  river, 
which  we  determined  we  would  enter  and  boldly  ford  or 
swim  our  way  down  until  we  reached  an  open  plateau  that 
forms  the  commencement  of  the  Platte  Valley  Park,  a  little 
quadrangular  space  which  seems  to  fit  in  around  the  three 
promontories  of  the  mountains,  which  jut  out  into  the  valleys, 
almost  concealing  it. 

Under  other  circumstances,  it  would  have  been  a  very 
ludicrous  sight  to  see  us,  in  a  long  string,  wading  and  ur§^^ 
our  horses  down  the  stream,  but  in  our  uncomfortable  ^P. 
perilous    position,    we    found    no    inclination    to  be    mirthful. 


A   COMIC    SCENE.  75 

However,  once  it  was  impossible  not  to  indulge  in  a  hearty- 
laugh.  The  contrary,  awkward  and  stubborn  pack-jack,  took 
a  notion  into  his  thick  numb-skull,  (however  he  managed  it 
we  dont  know)  not  to  enter  the  ice-cold  water.  One  of  us 
got  before  and  the  other  behind  and  pulled  and  pushed  with 
all  our  combined  strength,  but  we  couldn't  even  budge  him. 
Then  we  detailed  a  corps  of  four  of  the  stoutestr  men  among 
us,  to  go  out  in  the  willows,  cut  as  thick  sticks  as  they  could 
find  and  belabor  the  brute  until  he  started.  The  rest  of  us 
rode  on.  After  proceeding  for  some  distance  we  stopped  and 
looked  back.  Nothing  was  in  sight,  but  we  fancied  we  could 
hear  some  odd  noises  away  down  the  valley.  We  waited  and 
waited,  but  all  in  vain.  No  donkey  made  his  appearance,  so 
we  thought  we  would  ride  back  and  see  what  was  the  matter. 
On  coming  around  from  behind  the  last  willow  bush,  there  we 
saw  the  jack,  standing  steadfast  and  firm,  just  as  we  had  left 
him,  but  not  so  were  our  corps  of  execution.  The  poor  fellows, 
wearied  and  almost  exhausted  by  their  exertions,  were  now 
taking  it  by  turns,  of  two  each.  They  were  so  tired  that  now 
only  feeble  strokes  descended  on  the  rump,  the  iron  rump ! 
of  that  invincible  donkey.  We  joined  in  this  one  sided  melee 
and  had  the  satisfaction  of  wasting  all  our  strength  to  no 
more  purpose  than  the  others.  We  stopped.  I  walked  around 
in  front  of  the  little  beast  just  out  of  curiosity,  to  look  in  his 
face.  I  just  rolled  with  laughter  when  I  saw  that  mild  and 
idiotic  expression  of  supreme  contentment  and  stupidity  that 
overspread  his  assinine  countenence.  He  looked  as  if  he  was 
just  as  happy  as  he  ever  expected  to  be,  **and  his  smile  it  was 
childlike  and  bland."  There  was  a  vacant,  absent  mindedness 
about  his  manner  and  position  which  was  irrcsistably  ridicu- 
lous. We  had  found  after  repeated  experiment,  that  twisting 
his  tail  was  a  preventive  of  stoppages,  but  even  this  expedient 
now  failed.  We  now  held  another  council,  and  finally,  after 
J 


76  A   COMIC   SCENE. 

much  discussion,  decided  to  build  a  fire  under  him  and  either 
move  him  or  cook  him,  but  even  while  we  were  talking,  another 
idea  seemed  to  dawn  suddenly  upon  his  understanding,  for  he 
began  to  turn  around  in  the  path  and  strike  back  toward  the 
mountain.  This  movement  caused  great  excitement.  We 
dashed  along  on  horseback  and  on  foot  and  managed  to  col- 
lect in  the  path  ahead  of  him  in  a  dense  column  that  seemed 
to  frighten  him  as  he  came  slowly  plodding  along,  swinging 
his  immense  ears  in  lazy  contrariness,  for  he  wheeled  about 
and  made  directly  for  the  water,  dragging  his  huge  pack 
through  the  bushes,  without  regard  to  scratches  or  loss  of 
cooking  utensils.  This  was  just  what  we  wanted  but  we  dared 
not  urge  him  for  fear  he  would  again  stop,  so  we  followed  at 
some  distance  to  await  the  result  of  our,  thus  far,  successful 
maneuver.  Upon  reaching  the  stream,  he  plunged  in,  as  re- 
gardless of  consequence  as  he  had  been  while  dumbly  stand- 
ing beneath  the  blows  that  fell  thick  and  fast. 

Everything  now  went  smoothly  again  and  we  soon  found 
ourselves  once  more  on  terra  firma,  and  it  was  not  many 
moments  before  we  discovered  the  lost  trail  emerging  from 
the  edge  of  the  timber. 

We  joyfully  proceeded  on  our  journey,  feeling  that  we 
had  been  particularly  fortunate  in  extricating  ourselves  so 
easily  from  the  dilemma,  because  many  persons  have  perished 
on  account  of  losing  the  trail  among  these  mountain  gorges. 

The  scenery,  although  shrouded  in  deep  gloom,  now 
began  to  grow  less  rugged.  From  the  mouth  of  the  ravine 
we  rode  out  into  a  broad,  grassy  meadow-park  and  where  the 
other  members  of  the  party  bade  us  adieu,  as  they  had  reach- 
ed their  destination,  a  little  pine-bough  hut  that  stood  at  one 
edge  of  the  glen-like  park.  They  had  come  out  from  George- 
town on  a  hunting  and  fishing  excursion. 


THE   HEAD   OF   THE   PLATTE.  JJ 

We  had  now  arrived  at  the  **  Head  of  the  Platte"  as  it 
is  called,  but  Charley  Stapler  and  I  had  yet  eight  miles  of 
rough  road  before  us,  for  we  wished  to  put  up  for  the  night  at 
Hepborn's  Ranch.  After  exchanging  good  wishes  with  our 
friends,  we  galloped  on. 

In  this  lonely  ride  from  Cushman's  Camp  to  Hepborn's 
Ranch,  we  experienced  the  very  worst  portion  of  the  trail 
that  we  had  yet  traversed.  It  was  awful — nothing  but  fear- 
ful gorges,  perpendicular  ledges  and  bogs  of  the  worst 
description.  We  were  obliged  to  leap  fallen  tree-trunks,  push 
our  way  through  tangled  and  matted  branches,  cross  rickety 
log  bridges,  and  flounder  in  mud-holes  without  number.  But 
it  was  the  most  amusing  thing  to  see  the  short-legged  jack 
attempting  the  crossing  of  some  of  the  deepest  bogs.  He 
would  plunge  and  rear  frantically  in  his  helpless  endeavors  to 
get  out.  Sometimes  he  would  sink  up  to  his  belly  in  mud. 
Charley  sat  him  like  the  true  horseman  that  he  was — all  the 
while  punching  and  digging  him  in  the  sides  furiously  with 
his  old  dull  spurs,  and  yelling  at  him  and  beating  his  long 
ears  about  by  turns.  At  one  place  in  the  road  there  was  an 
immense  fallen  tree-trunk  that  completely  blocked  the  way, 
so  it  had  to  be  leaped.  Stapler's  widely  distended  carpet-bag 
had,  sometime  before,  lost  its  handle,  so  that  now  it  had  to 
be  carried  under  the  arm.  This  was  a  very  uncomfortable 
position,  but  it  happened  that  it  had  come  Charley's  turn  to 
take  charge  of  it.  He  had  gotten  along  well  enough  so  far, 
but  when  after  having  forded  a  small  stream  and  ridden  up  a 
very  short  but  abrupt  ascent,  we  came  suddenly  upon  this 
huge  log  lying  directly  across  the  path  ;  he  was  in  a  dilemma. 
Deciding  that  delay  was  worse  than  anything  else  just  then, 
we  determined,  at  least,  to  make  the  trial.  I,  being  in  ad- 
vance,  easily   leaped    my   horse    over ;  next    came    Charley. 


yS  ANOTHER   FUNNY   ADVENTURE. 

The  jack  hesitated  a  moment  and  then  sprang  over  with  all 
his  pigmy  strength,  but  landed  on  the  middle  of  the  log  with 
a  loud  grunt  as  all  the  wind  went  out  of  his  body.  Here  he 
lay,  with  two  feet  on  each  side — and  Charley  on  top.  After 
stupidly  gazing  around  for  some  moments,  he  thought  it  would 
be  as  well  to  get  over,  so  he  plunged  and  squirmed  in  his 
vain  endeavors  and  we  were  dismounting  to  assist  him  when, 
by  a  sudden  and  well  executed  twist  of  his  little  corpus,  he 
jerked  his  hind  legs  over  and  went  sprawling  on  the  ground, 
pitching  poor  Charley  into  the  mud.  The  jack  went  one  way, 
the  round  satchel  another,  and  Charley  another.  After  roll- 
ing over,  the  jack  lay  still  on  his  side,  too  lazy  to  move — and 
we  had  to  tug  away  for  sometime  at  his  ears  before  he  deigned 
to  stir.  When  he  did  though,  raising  himself  upon  his  fore- 
legs, his  hind  quarters  still  resting  on  the  ground,  what  was 
our  astonishment  upon  finding  the  stirrup  clasping  his  leg  al- 
most at  the  shoulder — he  had  run  his  foot  through  it  in  some 
unaccountable  way.  Here  was  another  task  for  us  ;  we  had 
to  pick  him  up  and  lay  him  on  the  log  before  we  could  extri- 
cate his  foot  from  its  awkward  and  inconvenient  position.  It 
was  too  ridiculous  to  see  Charley  get  up  out  of  the  mud,  rub- 
bing his  knee,  and  threatening  the  dumb  little  beast  with 
instant  death  by  cutting  his  throat.  However,  he  was  not 
seriously  injured  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  again  on  the 
way. 

At  times  the  trail  was  barely  discernable  as  a  red  mark 
running  along  over  the  jagged  fragments  of  detached  rocks, 
and  under  the  knotted  and  interlaced  limbs  of  the  pines, 
where  we  could  scarcely  urge  our  animals  to  venture. 

It  was  now  quite  dark,  so  that  every  few  hundred  yards, 
it  was  necessary  to  dismount  and  scan  the  ground,  to  discover 
if  we  were  following  the  real  or  only  an  apparent  trail.     Some- 


THE   RIDE   TO   HEPBORN'S   RANCH.  79 

times  we  hunted  for  it  in  the  darkness  on  hands  and  knees. 
All  this  was  very  disheartening  and  sorely  fatiguing.  In  the 
midst  of  our  dismay,  the  storm  that  had  been  rolling  up  from 
the  south  in  dense  banks  of  vapor,  overspreading  the  heavens 
with  a  thicker  gloom  than  that  of  night,  now  broke  over  the 
mountain  sides,  bringing  with  it  a  strong  southerly  wind  and 
a  dripping,  drizzling  rain.  It  was  only  by  the  sudden  glare  of 
the  lightning  that  we  could  see  the  dim  trail  as  it  wound 
along. 

We  rode  at  break-neck  speed  for  over  an  hour,  up  steep 
banks  at  a  run,  and  galloping  with  a  desperate  recklessness 
upon  the  very  edges  of  the  precipices,  that  here  and  there 
split  the  mountain  side,  and  with  only  the  thought  of,  and 
determination  to,  reach  Hepborn's  Ranch.  Had  it  not  been 
for  the  sure-footedness,  and  quick  sightedness  of  the  animals, 
we  should  have  been  dashed  to  pieces  before  we  had  ridden  a 
mile. 

We  urged  on  our  panting  animals  for  dear  life,  for  it  is  a 
thing  to  be  dreaded,  being  left  to  spend  the  night  in  a  gulch 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  too,  with  three  mules  to  take 
care  of 

It  began  to  rain  in  torrents  just  as  we  dashed  out  from 
under  some  thick  willows,  covering  a  mountain  stream,  and 
forming  a  tunnel-like  hole,  but  it  was  our  last  ascent,  for,  by 
the  vivid  flashes  of  lightning  we  caught  sight  of  a  low,  log 
cabin,  which  we  joyfully  hailed.     It  was  Hepborn's. 


CHAPTER    V, 

The  FrontiermarC s  Home. — Once  more  in  the  Saddle. — Enter- 
ing South  Park. —  The  Hill  of  the  Espanola. — Fair  Play. — 
The  "  Comfortable"  Room. — Our  Mountain  Outfit. —  The 
Ride  to  Horse  Shoe  Gulch. — First  indications  of  Master 
''Bruin!' — The  First  Buck. — A  novel  Bear  Trap. —  The 
Forest  on  Fire. — A  cold.  Morning  Hunt. —  Up  the  Valley 
again. —  The  Camp. 

We  drew  up,  before  the  plank  platform  answering  for  the 
pavement  and  porch,  jerked  off  the  saddles,  pounded  roughly 
on  the  door  and  entered  without  further  ceremony.  Old  Mr. 
Hepborn  assisted  in  stabling  the  animals,  and  Mrs.  Hepborn, 
who,  by  the  way,  is  a  splendid  cook,  bustled  about  in  a  hurry 
to  get  us  up  a  hot  supper,  while  we  sat  around  the  stove  and 
dried  our  saturated  clothing. 

When  we  reflected  upon  the  perils  we  had  that  day  en- 
countered, how  thankful  we  were  that  we  had  reached  a  haven 
of  safety  in  such  good  season.  We  looked  out  at  the  storm  that 
was  raging  with  a  fury  that  threatened  destruction,  and  in 
our  security,  did  not  notice  the  bare  floor  and  walls  about  us, 
nor  the  chinks  between  the  logs,  nor  the  rough,  wooden 
benches  on  which  we  sat.     All  was  comfort  and  rest  to  us. 

One  does  not  know  how  to  appreciate  happy  and  tranquil 
surroundings  until  they  have  been  removed  and  he  has  felt 
their  loss.  That  log  cabin  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  ravine  was 
home  to  us  that  stormy  night. 


82  THE   FRONTIERMAN'S   HOME. 

After  doing  full  justice  to  the  good  *' square"  meal  set 
before  us,  we  adjourned  to  the  sitting  room.  Soon  Mrs.  Hep- 
burn, and  the  man  living  with  them  came  into  the  room  and 
we  drew  up  our  rough,  home  made  chairs  around  the  fire  and 
listened  to  the  life  and  adventures  of  the  old  pioneer,  who 
seemed  to  regain  his  youthful  fire  as  he  recounted  to  us  the 
many  hair  breadth  escapes,  both  from  Indians  and  wild  ani- 
mals, that  he  had  made  long  years  ago,  when  this  region  was 
still  uninhabited.  We  sat  thus  until  late  into  the  night,  when 
the  little  party  broke  up,  each  one  seeking  his  own  room  to 
enjoy  the  rest  that  we  had  so  well  earned  during  the  day. 

Before  closing  the  chapter  on  Wednesday's  experience, 
I  will  add  a  few  words  concerning  this  house  between  the 
hills  ;  this  back-woodsman's  home  on  the  frontier.  Mr.  Hep- 
born's  ranche  may  be  taken  as  the  representative  of  its  class. 
It  is  nothing  but  a  rough,  log  cabin,  with  a  wing  constructed 
of  the  same  material,  and  containing  the  kitchen,  wood-yard, 
and  barn.  The  main  building  consists  of  five  rooms,  viz  :  the 
reception  or  sitting  room,  and  the  dining  apartment  on  the 
first  floor,  and  three  bed-rooms  on  the  second.  Then  comes 
the  roof,  with,  perhaps,  a  very  low  attic  intervening.  The  front 
door  is  just  high  enough  to  admit  of  the  entrance  of  a  full  sized 
man,  and  the  interior  of  the  house  is  entirely  bare,  there  be- 
ing nothing  to  fill  the  openings  between  the  logs,  except  in  the 
lower  room  where  there  are  several  rail  road  placards,  busi- 
ness cards,  and  miscellaneous  advertisements,  pasted  up  with- 
out regard  to  taste  or  beauty. 

On  Thursday  morning  we  were  up  with  the  sun,  and  felt 
ready  for  another  day's  ride,  even  though  it  be  over  trails,  as 
it  had  been  the  day  before  ;  but,  fortunately,  we  now  could 
travel  along  a  good  wide  stage  road  that  leads  from  Denver 
to  Fair  Play.  The  worst  of  the  journey  had  been  accomplished. 


ONCE   MORE    IN   THE   SADDLE.  83 

Remounting  our  animals,  after  finishing  the  well-pre- 
pared breakfast  set  before  us  by  Mrs.  Hepborn,  we  bade  the 
old  couple  farewell  and  turned  our  faces  toward  South  Park. 
For  the  first  few  miles  the  road  lay  through  a  rich,  rolling 
country,  scattered  thickly  with  patches  of  pine  timber,  and 
little  open  glens,  which  glimmered  here  and  there  upon  the 
vast  mountain  sides  like  green  oases  in  the  surrounding  wood- 
ed waste.  The  mountains  lining  this  lovely  valley  seemed 
to  have  drawn  apart  to  expose  to  admiring  eyes,  the  beauty 
and  richness  of  the  country. 

After  riding  for  eight  miles,  hardly  noting  the  lapse  of 
time  while  drinking  in  the  charm  and  novelty  of  our  situation, 
we  reached  the  Kenotia  House,  where  hungry  travelers  can 
obtain  meals  and  lodging,  and  even  stabling  for  their  horses  ; 
but  in  this  instance  we  merely  refreshed  ourselves  with  a  cup 
of  cold  water,  and  rode  on.  Learning  from  the  landlord 
that  we  would  enter  South  Park  in  a  very  short  time,  we 
hastened  forward  in  eager  expectation  of  the  beauty  of  this 
long  imagined  region. 

Proceeding  at  a  lively  gait  for  about  a  mile,  we  passed 
one  of  the  most  exquisite  little  lakes  that  can  be  imagined. 
It  lies  to  the  left  of  the  wagon  road  at  a  distance  of  two 
hundred  yards,  and  is  lined  by  a  wide  margin  of  tall,  rich 
grass  that  gives  it  the  appearance  of  an  immense  basin  with 
a  green  rim.  Sporting  upon  its  glassy  surface,  we  noticed 
several  wild  ducks,  but  were  too  far  off  to  obtain  a  shot  with 
even  a  half  chance  of  killing. 

After  another  quick  stage  we  reached  the  foot  of  a  long, 

and  rather  steep  hill,  that,  according  to  Charley's  statement, 

would  afford  us  an  excellent  view  of  the  lower  end  of  the 

Park.     In  toiling  up  its  side  with  difficulty,  we  were  remind- 

K 


84  ENTERING   SOUTH   PARK. 

ed  of  the  ascent  of  Grey's  Peak,  but  all  our  recollections 
were  transformed  into  actual  and  inspiring  experience,  when, 
on  attaining  the  summit,  a  grand  view  opened  before  our  gaze. 
Here  was  South  Park  !  Here  that  fairy-land  that  had  so 
often  been  pictured  to  us  in  the  most  inspiring  language,  and 
of  which  we 'had  heard  so  much  since  entering  Colorado  ; 
here  was  our  final  destination,  to  reach  which  we  had  en- 
dured the  burning  heat  of  the  plain,  and  the  fatigue  and  dis- 
comfort of  long  journeys ;  here  was  our  most  eagerly  looked 
for  "Mecca."  Truly  South  Park  is  the  garden  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  A  more  enchanting  scene  can  not  be  met  with 
in  the  range.  It  was  not  awe-inspiring  grandeur,  and  terrify- 
ing sublimity,  that  lay  before  us  ;  it  was  perfect  tranquility, 
harmony,  and  soft  blending  of  color  and  outline.  It  was  a 
scene  of  contrasts  between  steep,  rugged,  snow-capped 
mountains,  and  green,  grassy  plains.  All  bespoke  content- 
ment and  rest.  In  the  immediate  foreground  lay  the  plain, 
stretching  far  away  to  the  south-west,  and  terminated  by  the 
main  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  seen  at  such  a  dis- 
tance, seemed  nothing  but  a  long,  blue  bank  of  clouds.  The 
haze  that  partially  enveloped  them  in  its  misty  veil,  hid  from 
view  their  most  prominent  features,  only  disclosing  enough  to 
give  one  an  idea  of  their  stupendous  proportions  and  wild 
grandeur.  We  could  just  catch  sight  of  the  small  white  spots 
upon  their  sides  and  near  their  summits,  which  we  knew, 
were,  in  reality,  great  patches  of  snow,  some  of  them,  per- 
haps, hundreds  of  yards  in  extent.  These  mountains  were 
seventy  miles  away.  There  appeared  to  be  no  outlet  from 
this  immense  plateau,  but  on  descending  the  hill  and  plod- 
ping  along  over  the  level  surface  of  the  plain  for  more  than 
two  hours,  we  discovered  that  the  road  led  us  toward  what 
seemed  to  be  a  narrow  gulch,  opening  out  of  the  very  heart 
of  the  chain. 


ENTERING   SOUTH   PARK.  85 

After  entering  the  Park  we  had  not  headed  directly  across, 
but  had  borne  off  toward  the  north,  and  ridden  along,  keeping 
about  four  miles  distant  from  the  base  of  the  range. 

On  approaching  the  gorge,  we  found  that  it  was  entirely- 
impassable,  but  that,  instead  of  entering  it,  the  road  wound 
around  to  the  left,  crossing  a  slight  eminence  and  then  lead- 
ing to  another  portion  of  the  park  that  we  had  not  yet  seen. 
On  the  level  ground  beyond  the  rise  just  mentioned,  we 
stopped  for  dinner  at  a  ranch,  kept  by  a  man  named  Lechner. 
We  stabled  our  animals  and  entered  the  cabin,  but  had  to 
wait  for  almost  an  hour  and  a  half  for  dinner,  during  which 
time  we  entertained  ourselves  by  perusing  a  lot  of  newspapers 
about  a  year  old,  and  in  dozing  around  the  large  stove  that 
formed  the  principal  piece  of  furniture  of  the  apartment.  At 
last  the  landlady,  holding  a  dried-up  looking  little  baby  in 
her  arms,  which  we  at  first  mistook  for  a  diminutive, 
wizen-faced  monkey,  announced  that  the  meal  was  upon  the 
table,  and  we  were  not  slow  in  reaching  the  adjoining  room 
where  a  substantial  repast  was  spread  before  us. 

In  the  afternoon  we  jogged  along  as  usual,  but  now  began 
to  feel  somewhat  fatigued  by  our  two  hard  day's  ride.  Other 
parts  or  divisions  of  the  park  unfolded  before  us  as  we  ad- 
vanced, aJU  new  sights  charmed  us  at  every  turn  of  the  road. 
Everywhere  we  noticed  beautiful  glens  and  ravines  extending 
some  distance  into  the  mountain  sides,  and,  here  and  there 
upon  the  green  slopes,  rustic,  natural  gardens  that  seemed  to 
have  been  fashioned  by  the  hand  of  man,  so  regular,  and  yet 
so  charmingly  irregular,  was  their  arrangement.  Small  ever- 
greens stood  in  clusters,  half  concealing  serpentine  avenues 
and  walks  as  it  were,  but  which  were,  in  reality,  the  smoothly 
worn  trails  of  the  deer  and  antelope  as  they  came  down  to 
drink  at  the  mirror-like  little  lakes  that  nestled  at  the  foot  of 


86  THE   HILL  OF  THE   ESPANOLA. 

the  mountains.  Between  the  trees  the  grass  was  intensely 
green,  and  as  smooth  and  velvety  as  if  but  just  mown  by  an 
experienced  workman.  As  a  back-ground  to  such  lovely  spots, 
the  dark  timber  of  the  pine  forests  rose  giant-like  and  gaunt, 
only,  in  contrast,  enhancing  by  their  ruggedness,  the  rural 
serenity  and  natural  beauty  of  these  mountain  gardens. 

We  now  ascended  an  eminence  from  whose  crest  we  com- 
manded a  view  on  both  sides  of  not  less  than  twenty  miles. 
This  is  called  "  The  Hill  of  the  Espanola,"  from  the  fact  that 
several  years  ago,  a  party  of  visitors,  on  their  way  to  Fair 
Play,  were  brutally  murdered  on  the  top  of  this  hill,  by  a  band 
of  savage,  half-civilized,  highwaymen,  of  Spanish  descent, 
styling  themselves  the  "  Espanola." 

After  crossing  this  ridge  we  traversed  another  stretch  of 
plain,  then  succeeded  a  waste  of  willow  bushes,  then  an  open 
glen,  and  at  last,  rounding  a  narrow  strip  of  copse,  we  came 
in  sight  of  Fair  Play.  Let  me  describe  it  before  we  enter,  so 
that  you  may  know  just  what  to  expect,  and  be  in  nowise 
disappointed. 

There  is  only  one  long  street,  with  the  most  "batter-down,'' 
rickety,  log  cabins,  lining  it  on  either  side.  About  half  way 
down  this  so-called  street,  it  being  nothing  but  an^pening  to 
let  wagons  between  the  huts,  stand  the  hotels,  there  being 
two  ;  further  on,  stands  the  store,  there  being  one  ;  further 
still  does  not  stand  the  church,  there  being  none. 

At  one  extremity  is  the  livery  stable,  at  the  other,  the 
express  office,  in  the  interval,  the  billiard  halls  and  liquor 
shops. 

There  is  supposed  to  be  a  commission  store  in  this  de- 
lectable loT«m,  but  it  is  only  a  wild  supposition,  for  opposite 
the  hotel  called  the  Clinton  House,  stands  a  miserable  frame 


* 


FAIR   PLAY.  87 

shanty,  bearing  across  the  front  a  dilapidated  looking  sign, 
with  "  S.  F.  Valiton,  Storage  and  Commission,"  in  crooked, 
black  letters,  painted,  probably,  a  dozen  years  ago,  but  which 
are  almost  faded  or  washed  out  of  sight. 

All  day  long,  a  crowd  of  lazy,  '*  out-of-work  "  miners, 
with,  now  and  then,  a  hotel  keeper  or  bar-tender,  is  to  be  seen 
loafing  about  the  door  of,  or  sitting  upon  the  rough,  wooden 
benches  before,  the  Clinton  or  Murdock  House.  Everything 
is  dull,  everybody  is  dull,  so  we  are  dull  likewise. 

Fair  Play  is  situated  on  the  edge  of  the  high  bluffs  over- 
looking Four  Mile  Creek.  It  occupies  an  excellent  site,  but 
of  course,  it  does  not  improve  its  situation.  I  cannot  tell  you 
what  a  dismal,  woe-begone,  insipid,  out-of-the-way,  diminu- 
tive, insignificant  place  Fair  Play  is.  One  must  come  here 
to  fully  appreciate  its  discomforts.  But  speaking  of  discom- 
forts reminds  me  of  what  we  endured  on  Thursday  night. 

On  entering  the  village,  we  rode  up  to  Murdock's  and 
asked  for  rooms.  Of  course  he  said  'yes',  for  all  hotel  keep- 
ers say  'yes ',  even  though  their  house  is  so  crowded  that  you 
are  obliged  to  sleep  on  the  floor.  He  was  no  exception  to  the 
rule,  but  we  were  too  much  fatigued  to  be  inquisitive,  so  we 
sent  our  animals  to  the  stable  and  prepared  to  follow  him  to 
the  "  comfortable"  room  that  he  kept  assuring  us  was  in  wait- 
ing. We  stumbled  up  a  narrow,  uncarpeted,  rickety  pair  of 
stairs,  all  the  while,  stooping  low,  for  fear  that  our  heads 
might  injure  the"  elegantly  frescoed  ceiling"  by  a  collision. 
We  reached  the  top  step,  took  two  and  stumped  our  toes 
against  a  shallow  sill  that  marked  the  entrance,  almost  pre- 
cipitating ourselves  at  full  length  upon  the  floor  of  that  'com- 
fortabW  room.  Recovering  our  equipoise,  we  slgwly  and 
silently  took  a  mental  inventory  of  the  apartment.'  Opposite 
the    door-hole,    for   there   was  no  door,  was  a  little  pigeon 


88  THE  COMFORTABLE  ROOM. 

window  with  dust-incrusted  sash  and  filthy  panes,  all  streak- 
ed with  the  course  of  rain  drops,  as  they  had  partially  washed 
off  the  dirt  ;  and  at  the  left  of  the  window  stood  a  bed — rough, 
unpainted  bedstead,  and  clothes  that  certainly  were  never 
washed,  and  covering  all,  a  plaid  quilt  upon  which  you  might 
almost  write  your  name.  The  pillows,  I  will  leave  to  your 
imagination  ;  however,  I  will  say,  out  of  the  kindness  of  my 
heart,  that  I  do  really  suppose  that  07icc  they  were  white. 
They  are  now  of  a  delightful  mud  color,  all  soiled  and  mussed 
and  greasy  by  contact  with  many  a  miner's  uncombed  locks. 

We  did  not  lift  the  topmost  coverings.  The  exterior  was 
enough  !  We  knew,  of  a  certainty  that  if  we  carried  our  in- 
vestigations below  the  quilt,  we  would/have  to  pay  the  pen- 
alty, and,  perhaps,  be  eaten  up  alive. 

This  is  the  description  of  only  one  of  the  beds  that  filled 
the  covifortable  room.  There  were  five  of  them  !  Think  of 
it  !  And  all  occupied  !  Noiv  think  of  it  !  And  by  dirty  un- 
reliable miners.  Imagine  that !  Pleasant,  wasn't  it  }  But  we 
had  to  submit,  for  it  was  too  late  and  we  were  too  tired  to 
seek  other  lodgings.  The  floor  was  covered,  or  supposed  to 
be,  by  a  torn  and  filthy,  old,  rag-carpet,  that  had,  per- 
haps, been  there  ever  since  the  house  was  built.  The  walls 
and  ceiling  were  papered  with  periodicals  and  newspapers  of 
every  name  and  locality.  Here  and  there,  a  picture,  such  as 
is  to  be  found  in  the  Harpers  Weekly  or  Chimney  Corner, 
catches  the  eye  and  relieves  the  sameness  of  color,  produced 
by  such  an  array  of  printed  matter.  Between  the  feet  of  two 
of  the  many  beds  in  that  comfortable  room,  stood  a  home- 
made pine  table  that  looked  old  enough  for  a  home  to  be  made 
for  it,  rather  than  be  made  for  one.  On  it,  reared  its  lofty 
and  snow-white  head,  a  tallow-dip,  that  gave  out  just  light 
enough  to  distinguish,  after  having  accustomed  the  eyes  to  it's 


THE   COMFORTABLE   ROOM.  89 

feeble  flicker,  the  farthest  bed,  which,  with  it's  redheaded  oc- 
cupant, ornamented  the  recess  around  a  corner.  Opening 
through  either  of  the  rooms,  were  what  seemed  to  be  upright 
trap-doors,  which  proved  afterward  to  lead  into  the  suburbs 
of  an  attic  which  was  crammed  full  of  old  shoes,  boxes,  bags, 
boards,  and  all  the  debris  of  a  hotel. 

With  the  very  pleasantest  (  ?  )  feelings  imaginable  we  pre- 
pared for  bed — I  mean  to  daintily  dispose  ourselves  upon  the 
outside  sheets  so  as  not  to  disturb  the  lower  inmates.  We 
deposited  our  bundles  and  carpet-bags  on  the  cleanest  part  of 
the  floor,  and  carefully  examined  our  revolvers  to  see  if  they 
were  in  a  condition  to  oppose  any  midnight  intruders.  We 
lay  awake  a  long  time  listening  to  the  yellow  curtain  flapping 
and  knocking  up  against  the  window  sash  making  the  most 
suspicious  and  alarming  sounds.  We  each  grasped  our  weap- 
ons in  momentary  expectation  of  seeing  a  long  arm  slowly  en- 
tering the  room,  or  of  becoming  aware  that  there  were  more 
than  five  persons  in  the  room.  In  fact,  I  cannot  say  positively 
that  there  were  not,  for  any  one  might  have  sneaked  in  and 
slept  on  the  floor  without  being  discovered.  Thdre  was  no 
door  and  we  could  lie  in  the  room  and  look  down  the  stair- 
way into  the  street.  In  this  manner  we  passed  most  of  the 
night  and  when  the  gray  dawn  of  morning  crept  in  through 
the  chinks  between  the  logs,  we  arose,  and  having  carefully 
looked  to  our  '  where-withal'  to  see  that  none  was  missing, 
we  shook  hands  and  congratulated  each  other,  that  we  had 
escaped  death  during  the  night,  for  vve  might  have  been  rob- 
bed, murdered,  eaten  up,  or,  indeed,  any  other  fate  might  have 
befallen  us. 

As  soon  as  we  had  breakfasted,  upon  the  following  morn- 
ing, we  carried  our  chattels  over  to  the  Clinton  House,  and 
obtained  a  very  fair  room  on  the  second  floor.     It  was  quite 


90  THE    RIDE   TO    HORSE   SHOE   GULCH. 

neat,  and  not  in  any  way  repulsive,  as  the  "  comfortable" 
room  had  been.  My  friend  Stapler,  who  had  been  suffering 
from  a  severe  sore  throat  during  the  past  few  days,  now  be- 
came seriously  indisposed.  A  high  fever  set  in  and  it  employ- 
ed all  my  time  in  taking  care  of  him,  so  that  nothing  of  any 
interest  occured  that  was  worthy  of  a  place  in  these  pages. 
We  spent  the  entire  day  in  our  room. 

On  Saturday  morning  Stapler  was  so  much  better  that 
we  found  it  practicable  to  fulfil  o^ar  engagement,  with  a  Mr. 
Mills,  and  his  friend  Mr.  Reed,  to  go  up  through  the  mount- 
ains for  a  week's  hunting.  We  had  made  an  arrangement  by 
which  he  was  to  furnish  everything  necessary  to  such  an  ex- 
pedition, so,  at  the  appointed  hour  in  the  morning,  he  came 
with  his  large  uncovered  wagon  and  mules,  while  Mr.  Reed 
rode  a  fine  roan  horse.  We  packed  up  our  gum  suits,  carpet 
bags  and  blankets,  and  after  depositing  them  carefully  in  the 
wagon  we  arranged  ourselves  for  a  long  ride.  We  drove  out 
of  Fair  Play  toward  the  north,  and  taking  a  sharp  turn  around 
the  brow  of  the  bluff,  descended,  and  having  crossed  Four 
Mile  Creek,  we  traversed  the  plains  toward  Horse  Shoe 
Gulch.  The  ride  was  a  beautiful  one,  for  we  wound  through 
many  sequestered  glens  and  timber-lined  parks,  until  we  ar- 
rived at  a  cool,  shady  spot,  near  a  little  sheet  of  clear  water, 
where  we  camped  temporarily,  for  dinner.  While  Mr.  Mills 
was  setting  the  cooking  utensels  again  in  order,  we  scoured 
the  country  about  for,  perhaps,  a  mile  square,  in  search  of  deer, 
but  finding  none,  gave  up  the  chase  for  the  ride.  We  were 
soon  seated  once  more  in  the  wagon,  jolting  along  up  the  val- 
ley. Riding  quietly  through  a  clear  stretch  of  plain,  we  all 
at  once  came  to  a  halt,  in  sight  of  a  splendid  buck  antelope, 
which  was  slowly  crossing  a  side  park.  Unfortunately  we 
were  not  near  enough  to  use  our  rifles,  so  he  was  permitted  to 
walk  away   unharmed. 


FIRST   INDICATIONS   OF   MASTER    ''  BRUIN."  9I 

Every  now  and  then  we  noticed  little  mounds  of  sand  or 
sandy  soil,  heaped  up,  which  were  scattered  along,  and  mostly 
just  at  the  edge  of  the  forest.  There  would  have  been  nothing 
remarkable  about  their  appearance,  had  they  not  been  hol- 
lowed out  as  it  were,  from  the  top,  sometimes  to  a  depth  of  a 
foot  and  even  two  feet.  After  using  all  my  ingenuity  to  devise 
an  explanation  of  their  peculiar  form  to  no  purpose,  I  asked 
Mr.  Mills  what  they  really  were.  '*  Ant  hills  that  the  bears 
have  been  at,"  he  replied.  Here  was  the  solution  of  the  mys- 
tery. The  bears  had  rooted  about  with  their  nose  in  search 
of  the  little  insects,  and  had  thus  destroyed  the  symmetry  of 
the  hill. 

It  was  rather  unfortunate  that  we  did  not  reach  Fair  Play 
one  day  sooner,  for  there  had  been  quite  an  excitement  in  the 
usually  quiet  little  village.  A  large  grizzly  bear  had  yielded 
to  temptation  and  contracted  the  very  bad  habit  of  stealing. 
He  was  accustomed  to  come  every  night,  at  about  the  mid- 
night hour,  to  a  butcher-house,  which  is  situated  at  the 
northern  end  of  the  town,  and  closely  bordering  the  edge  of 
the  dense,  pine  forest  ;  and  it  was  in  vain  that  the  owners  of 
the  meat,  set  traps  for  him,  and  gummed  leaves,  in  order  to 
cover  his  feet  and  eventually  his  eyes,  so  that  they  might  ap- 
proach him  without  fear.  One  black  and  stormy  night,  the 
bear  came  out  of  the  woods  at  the  usual  hour,  and,  after  look- 
ing carefully  around  for  some  minutes,  started  for  the  house. 
On  arriving  at  the  door,  he  paused  again,  as  if  he  felt  a  little 
apprehension  that  some  danger  was  threatening  him,  but 
soon,  having  seen  nothing  to  attract  his  attention,  he  stepped 
inside.  The  moment  after  he  disappeared,  three  human 
figures  glided  simultaneously  from  behind  as  many  trees,  and 
closed  in  around  the  door.  Then,  at  a  signal,  they  rushed 
forward  and  drew  the  sliding  planks  across  the  opening,  at 
L 


92  A    NOVEL    BEAR    TRAP. 

the  same  time,  barring  and  rebarring  them,  with  stout  two 
inch  timbers.  Master  "bruin  "  wheeled  about,  and,  seeing  in 
what  a  snare  he  was  caught,  made  a  rush  at  the  door,  striking 
it  with  his  shoulders  and  head.  Finding  how  useless  was  this 
expenditure  of  strength,  he  deliberated  what  to  do  next  ; 
then  drew  off  for  some  yards,  and  rising  on  his  hind  legs,  came 
on  again  for  another  attack,  but  this  time  more  slowly  and 
cautiously.  Reaching  the  side  of  the  building  he  began  a 
regular  battle  with  the  thick  planks.  He  struck  right  and 
left  with  his  fore  limbs,  sinking  his  claws  deep  into  the  wood, 
and  tearing  asunder  the  solid  posts,  like  ribbons.  With  his 
teeth  he  seized  the  cross-bars,  and  rent  them  in  twain  as 
though  they  were  brittle  twigs.  At  last,  the  door  could  not 
withstand  these  terrible  assaults,  and  began  to  creak  and 
tremble,  then  suddenly  gave  way  with  a  loud  crash,  and  out 
walked  the  bear.  By  the  time  he  reached  the  open  ground 
in  front  of  the  building,  there  were  no  men  in  sight.  The 
only  consideration  that  deterred  them  from  shooting  him, 
was   the    desire    of   obtaining   such   a   valuable    prize,    alive. 

Several  days  passed  by,  without  any  more  disturbance. 
However,  on  the  night  previous  to  our  arrival  in  Fair  Play, 
the  old  grizzly  appeared  again,  at  almost  the  same  hour  that 
had  marked  his  former  incursions.  The  men  were  on  the 
watch  though,  and  saw  him  enter  the  butcher-house.  In  the 
meantime  they  had  repaired  the  shattered  door,  and  had  sub- 
stituted three  inch  plank  for  the  tivo  inch  boards  that  had  an- 
swered for  the  door.  This  they  believed  would  resist  a!l  the 
attacks  which  could  be  made  by  a7iy  bear.  However,  they 
were  mistaken  in  their  conjectures,  as  we  shall  presently  see. 
Finding  himself  shut  in  again,  the  bear  stood  up  and  came 
roaring  toward  the  door.  He  first  bit  and  then  clawed  the 
timbers,  but  only  to  work  himself  into  a  greater  fury.     He  kept 


HORSE   SHOE   GULCH    RESUMED.  93 

up  this  one  sided  fight  for  over  a  half  hour,  when,  as  might 
have  been  expected,  by  dint  of  perseverance,  he  succeeded  in 
wearing  down  the  oaken  posts,  until,  at  each  stroke  of  his 
powerful  arm,  they  would  bend  and  creak.  They  could  not 
hold  out  much  longer.  This  alarming  fact  became  evident  to 
those  outside,  just  in  time  to  prevent  the  bear's  escape,  and 
perhaps  fatal  bloodshed.  There  being  a  gentleman  from  St. 
Louis  present,  the  honor  of  killing  this  huge  animal  was  con- 
ferred upon  him,  as  the  stranger.  Approaching  carefully,  and 
raising  himself  as  high  as  he  could,  he  pushed  the  barrel  of 
his  rifle  through  the  logs,  and  pulled  the  trigger.  There  was 
a  fearful  scream,  and  a  continued  succession  of  heavy  jars  as 
the  bear  went  tumbling  upon  the  floor.  It  was  some  moments 
before  the  door  was  opened,  and  then  with  the  greatest  cir- 
cumspection, in  order  to  ascertain  if  the  brute  had  been 
killed  outright. 

This  terrible  beast  weighed  over  eighteen  htmdred  pounds, 
and  his  meat,  after  being  dressed,  weighed  about  fotir  hun- 
dred pounds.  He  was  the  largest  grizzly  bear  that  had  been 
seen  about  Fair  Play  for  a  number  of  years. 

V  Now,  after  this  lengthy  digression,  we  will  return  to  our 
ride  up  the  Horse  Shoe  Gulch. 

We  passed  the  whole  remaining  portion  of  the  day  in 
reaching  a  spot,  only  twelve  miles  from  Fair  Play,  where  we 
went  into  camp  for  the  night.  The  scenery  between  Fair  Play 
and  the  camp  was  grand,  in  its  ever  changing  mountain  and 
level  landscape.  Lying  on  all  sides  of  us,  as  we  had  advanced, 
were  little  clearings,  shaped  in  the  most  fantastic  forms  ;  long 
belts  of  forest  trees,  rendered  almost  impassable  by  fallen  tim- 
ber and  rushing,  foaming  mountain  streams,  that  came  tum- 
bling down  from  their  snow-fed  sources.  The  glens  were  very 
level  and  were  covered  with  a  rich,  sweet  grass,  upon  which 


94  HORSE   SHOE   GULCH. 

the  deer  and  antelope  graze  during  the  cool  hours  of  the  eve- 
ning. All  was  quiet.  Even  the  subdued  colorings  of  the 
mountain  sides  gave  a  restful  and  mellowing  influence,  that 
elevated  while  it  softened  the  feelings.  Beyond  the  level  val- 
lies  rose  the  wintry,  snow  capped  pinnacles,  jutting  upward 
into  the  deep  blue  of  the  air.  We  could  not  peep  over  the 
range  that  immediately  surrounded  us,  so  that  we  were  en- 
closed, as  it  were,  in  gceat  prison  walls  of  pines.  But  to 
return. 

After  unpacking  our  wagon  and  littering  the  ground  for 
some  distance  around  with  the  camp  ivtpedimcntay  a  fire  was 
lighted  and  we  seated  ourselves  to  a  real,  out-of-doors,  wes- 
tern supper.  It  consisted  of  beef,  tea,  bread,  or  rather  a  sort 
of  '*  pome,"  made  then  and  there,  sugar,  condensed  milk, 
answering  for  cream,  crackers,  ginger-bread,  butter  and  choco- 
late.    This  we  considered  faring  very  well  for  mountain  life. 

After  supper  we  sat  around  the  blazing  fire  for  a  long 
time,  watching  the  flames  dart  up  luridly  for  an  instant  and 
then  sink  back  again  into  the  glowing  embers,  and  lay  upon 
our  blankets  gazing  up  at  the  merrily  twinkling  stars  that 
looked  down  upon  us  so  kindly. 

Talking  pleasantly,  we  lingered  to  a  late  hour,  and  then, 
the  fire  having  died  down  to  a  heap  of  smouldering  coals,  and 
beginning  to  feel  somewhat  chilled  by  the  cold  night  air,  we 
wrapped  ourselves  up  in  our  heavy  blankets  and  composed 
ourselves  for  the  night. 

In  a  very  few  moments  I  could  hear  all  of  my  companions 
breathing  regularly  and  deeply,  which  proved  that  they  were 
already  unconscious  and  were  enjoying  the  rest  of  "  nature's 
sweet  restorer,  balmy  sleep."  But  no  such  good  fortune  was 
mine,  for  I  could  not  lose  myself  for  an  instant,  even  when 


THE   FOREST   ON    FIRE.  95 

using  all  the  childish  devices  to  entice  slumber,  which  I  had 
been  taught  when  very  young.  The  clearing  in  which  our 
camp  was  situated  was  flooded  with  splendid  moonlight,  and 
whenever  I  opened  my  eyes  on  the  mysterious  mazes  of  light 
and  gloom  in  the  depths  of  the  forest,  I  became  excited  and 
restless.  I  rose  on  my  elbow  and  looked  at  my  watch.  The 
hands  indicated  that  it  was  past  the  hour  of  midnight.  I  lay 
down  again  determined  to  overcome  my  untimely  and  annoy- 
ing wakefulnesss,  but  it  was  in  vain  that  I  closed  my  eyes  and 
forced  my  limbs  into  compose  ;  soon  I  would  toss  restlessly 
about  again,  in  each  turn  unrolling  the  blanket  more  and 
more  from  around  my  body,  which  now  began  to  be  numb 
and  chilled.  Sometime  between  one  and  two  o'clock,  I  was 
just  getting  into  a  refreshing  dose  when  I  was  startled  into 
acute  consciousness  by  a  distant  rumbling  like  that  of 
heavy  thunder.  I  opened  my  eyes.  Everything  about  the 
camp,  instead  of  being  enshrouded  by  the  deep  gloom  of 
night,  was  illumined  as  if  by  the  sun,  while  above  the  tall 
pines  hung  dense  black  clouds  of  smoke.  At  first  I  could  not 
imagine  from  whence  it  came,  but  all  the  while  I  could  hear 
the  roaring  and  crackling  of  a  great  conflagration.  In  perfect 
consternation,  I  sprang  up  and  gazed  around.  To  add  to  the 
wierdness  of  this  midnight  scene,  all  the  trees  in  our  imme- 
diate vicinity  seemed  green  and  unburned;  but  that  awful 
sound  continued.  It  was  a  very  perplexing  position  in  which 
to  be  placed.  I  could  discover  nothing  of  the  cause  or  source 
of  the  flames,  owing  to  the  thick  pall  of  smoke  that  envel- 
oped everything.  At  last,  after  walking  about  the  clearings, 
and  taking  a  few  steps  under  cover  of  the  intensely  black  for- 
est, (for  I  dared  not  venture  farther  on  account  of  the  bears  and 
cougars,)  without  waking  the  sound  sleepers  about  me  I  de- 
termined to  return  to  my  blankets,  since  the  fire  did  not  seem 
to    threaten    that    portion    of    the    woods    in    which   we    lay. 


go  A  COLD,    MORNING   HUNT. 

From  my  low  position  upon  the  ground,  I  could  see,  under 
the  line  of  smoke,  bright  tongue-like  flames  shooting  upward, 
and  dancing  with  fiendish  delight  over  the  tops  of  the  tallest 
pines  that  covered  the  mountain  side  across  the  narrow  val- 
ley. The  mystery  was  solved.  I  knew  at  once  that  the  for- 
est was  on  fire  ;  but  from  the  fact  of  its  confining  itself  to  the 
opposite  mountain,  I  no  longer  felt  apprehension  for  our 
safety,  so  shut  my  eyes,  and  after  directing  my  thoughts  from 
the  conflagration,  soon  fell  asleep. 

When  I  again  awakened,  it  was  to  behold  the  gray  dawn 
of  morning  stealing  a  march  upon  us  through  the  spaces  be- 
tween the  pines.  I  roused  Stapler,  who,  after  sleepily  rubbing 
his  eyes,  and  shaking  off  the  delusion  that  he  was  at  home  in 
a  comfortable  room,  agreed  to  join  me  in  an  early  morning 
hunt. 

It  was  now  about  five  o'clock.  We  took  our  rifles  which 
were  leaning  against  a  tree  within  reach,  and  started  out  to 
find  any  deer  that  might  be  on  the  move.  It  is  the  custom  of 
this  shy  animal  to  stirabout  the  woods  before  it  is  light,  and 
during  sunrise,  to  pasture  and  visit  their  "  licks,"  but  they 
keep  in  seclusion  during  the  day,  lying  in  their  beds  at  the 
feet  of  the  largest  trees.     They  are  on  foot  again  at  night. 

We  followed  the  course  of  the  stream  up  the  valley  for  a 
mile  or  more,  then  struck  off  into  a  dense  forest  the  edge  of 
which  skirted  the  banks  of  a  shallow  muddy  mountain  brook 
that  served  only  to  render  the  intervening  ground  almost  im- 
passable.. It  was  very  cold,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  we 
could  hold  our  rifles.  The  frosty  barrels  were  painful  to  the 
touch.  Our  hands  were  blue  from  the  effect  of  the  freezing 
atmosphere.  We  hunted  until  breakfast  time  but  succeeded 
only  in  raising  a  grouse,  having  seen  no  deer.     There  was  one 


UP   THE   VALLEY    AGAIN.  97 

thing  that  was  greatly  against  us.  The  timber  was  so  dry- 
that  the  cracking  occasioned  by  the  breaking  of  the  twigs 
and  little  roots  under  foot,  resounded  like  small  explosions, 
thus  frightening  away  any  animals  which  otherwise  might 
have  been  approached  without  difficulty. 

We  broke  camp  at  seven  o'clock  and  moved  farther  up 
the  valley  with  a  view  of  getting  as  far  up  the  sides  of  the 
mountains  as  possible  with  the  wagon,  so  that  we  might  have 
the  shorter  distance  to  accomplish  when  we  started  out  upon 
daily  shooting  excursions.  We  were  obliged  to  halt  about 
an  hour  afterward,  near  the  timber  line,  on  account  of  the  ne- 
cessity of  obtaining  wood  and  water.  A  beautiful  spot  was 
selected  by  one  of  the  guides.  It  was  situated  upon  a  gentle 
slope  of  the  mountain  side,  which  shelved  gradually  down  to 
the  stream  that  marked  the  center  of  the  valley  bottom.  We 
chose  the  upper  extemity  of  a  sort  of  natural  vista  or  glen- 
like opening  among  the  forest  trees,  for  our  permanent  camp- 
ing ground.  It  commanded  an  extended  view,  both  up  and 
down  the  ravine.  Along  the  base  of  the  declivity  ran  a  trib- 
utary to  the  South  Platte  ;  beyond  the  stream  stretched  away 
for  some  distance  a  flat  plateau  or  valley  bottom  covered  thick- 
ly with  a  rank  growth  of  willow  bushes  and  aspen  shrubs. 
Behind  this  scene  of  emerald  verdure  towered  the  bleak,  white 
pyramids  of  snow,  shutting  in  the  gorge,  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  We  were  just  below  the  natural  line  of  arbores- 
cence,  so  that  opposite  to  us,  upon  the  bare  and  rocky  moun- 
tain sides,  we  could  see  the  drifts  of  snow  glistening  brightly 
in  the  sunshine.  Taking  in  the  whole  prospect  in  one  glance, 
it  impressed  one  with  a  feeling  of  man's  littleness  and  God's 
greatness  with  more  convincing  power  than  any  view  we  had 
yet  beheld. 


CHAPTER     VI. 

Stalking  Antelope. — Dinner  on  the  ^^ Divide.'' — The  Horse  Shoe 
Basin. — Sunset  from  the  Divide. — Atmospheric  Tempera- 
ture on  the  Mountains. —  The  Ascent  of  ''Silver  Heels'' — 
View  from  the  Summit.  —  Mountain.  —  Quail  Shooting.  — 
Master  Bruin  at  Camp. — Farewell  to  Camp  Life. 

Here  we  were  in  the  very  heart  of  the  chain.  Nothing 
but  a  waste  of  snow  about  and  above  us,  while  below  us 
curved  the  snaky  course  of  the  valley  with  its  brilliant  green 
setting.  Here  and  there,  were  the  ever  present  storm-clouds 
and  great  masses  of  mist  hanging  over  some  narrower,  and 
deeper  gorges,  than  the  rest.  At  this  great  elevation,  being 
now  almost  twelve  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
as  may  be  imagined,  it  was  quite  cold.  Indeed  it  was  so 
much  so,  that  overcoats  and  gloves  found  a  ready  use.  After 
having  deposited  all  our  bundles  and  bags  and  everything  else 
pertaining  to  camp  life,  an  antelope  hunt  was  proposed,  and 
quickly  assented  to  by  the  writer,  but  declined  by  Mr.  Stapler 
who  preferred  his  books  and  blanket  by  the  fireside,  to  the 
rough  climbing  but  exhilarating  excitement  of  the  chase  ;  so 
Mr.  Mills  and  myself  started  up  through  the  woods.  We  pro- 
ceeded slowly  at  first,  for  we  expected  to  find  some  deer  in 
the  timber,  it  being  now  their  time  for  resting.  We  visited 
several  "  arastras  "  situated  upon  the  route,  and  found  it  very 
interesting  to  watch  the  operation  of  crushing,  or  rather 
M 


lOO  STALKING    ANTELOPE. 

roughly  assaying,  the  native  ore.  We  ascended  the  mountain 
side  under  cover  of  the  forest,  until  we  reached  the  bank  of  a 
stream  that  came  roaring  and  tumbling  down  with  an  impetus 
that  proved  how  elevated  was  the  spring  that  formed  its 
source.  This  foaming  torrent  formed  the  boundary  between 
the  dense  growth  of  pine  and  fir  trees  and  the  herbless  waste 
of  bare  rocks  beyond.  It  was  a  very  wild  but  picturesque 
spot.  I  would  fain  have  lingered  amid  such  romantic  sur- 
roundings, but  Mr.  Mills  seemed  to  think  it  advisable  to  reach 
the  regular  hunting  grounds  before  the  game  had  become 
alarmed  by  any  early  morning  sounds  ;  so,  jumping  from  one 
stone  to  another,  we  finally  landed  in  safety  upon  the  opposite 
bank.  We  had,  however,  but  just  attained  the  crest  of  a 
ridge  that  shut  out  a  view  of  the  immediate  fore  ground,  and 
were  slowly  picking  our  way  among  the  trailing  vines  and 
creepers  that  line  the  water  for  a  distance  of  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  above  our  point  of  crossing,  when  Mr.  Mills  suddenly 
seized  my  arm  and  drew  me  down  to  a  kneeling  posture,  at 
the  same  moment  pointing  through  an  opening  in  some  stunted 
willows  just  ahead  of  us.  I  followed  the  direction  with  my 
eye  and  caught  sight  of  a  fine  large  buck  antelope,  loping 
gracefully  but  swiftly  away  toward  the  mouth  of  a  deep  ravine 
about  seven  hundred  yards  distant.  As  these  animals  are  the 
most  timid  ones  that  exist,  we  were  obliged  to  employ  much 
caution  in  approaching  them.  After  deliberating  for  some- 
time, and  speculating  as  to  their  probable  movements,  we  took 
a  wide  circuit  about  the  base  of  another  mountain  so  that  we 
might  appear  again  over  the  brow  of  a  jagged  ridge  overlook- 
ing the  basin  in  which  we  were  confident  the  rest  of  the  herd 
were  grazing.  It  occupied  full  three  quarters  of  an  hour  of 
hard  climbing  and  scrambling  to  attain  the  desired  eminence  ; 
but  when  we  had  done  so,  raising  our  heads  inch  by  inch,  and 
thoroughly  scrutinizing  all  the  ground  thus  uncovered,  we  at 


DINNER    ON   THE    "DIVIDE.  lOI 

last  perceived  about  a  dozen  antelope  quietly  grazing  upon 
the  opposite  side  of  the  arena.  Now  it  became  a  matter  of 
doubt  whether  or  not  an  attempt  to  surround  them  would 
prove  successful,  but  finally  we  decided  in  the  affirmative  and 
began  the  strategem. 

It  was  over  an  hour  before  we  met  on  the  hill  above  them, 
and  by  some  accident  though  very  slight,  they  caught  a  glimpse 
of  my  coat,  which  was  unfortunately  dark,  and  were  away. 
.The  old  buck  whistled,  and  thus  gave  the  alarm  to  the  re- 
mainder of  the  herd,  who  raised  their  heads  and  listened  for 
one  instant,  and  then  galloped  off.  We  ran  around  the  sum- 
mit of  the  mountain  to  a  precipice  that  overhung  the  gorge 
through  which  they  were  heading,  and  would  probably  pass  ; 
but  just  as  we  reached  the  edge  they  saw  us,  and  dashed  up 
the  steep,  rocky  ascent,  on  the  opposite  side,  and  halted 
about  eight  hundred  yards  distant,  all  standing  in  a  close 
group.  Here  was  a  half  chance  ;  they  were  now  thoroughly 
aroused  and  would  probably  not  give  me  a  better,  so,  doubt- 
ful as  it  was,  I  determined  to  shoot  ;  I  drew  bead  on  them  and 
pulled  the  trigger.  As  the  smoke  cleared  away  I  saw  the 
bullet  strike  the  ground  about  two  feet  this  side  of  them. 
They  scattered  as  if  by  magic,  in  every  direction,  and  sprang 
down  the ^  other  side  of  the  pass  out  of  sight.  It  was  very 
provoking  to  come  so  close  and  yet  not  hit,  but  I  consoled 
myself  with  the  thought  that  perhaps  abetter  shot  would  soon 
offer  itself.  We  maneuvered  about  for  an  hour  longer  without 
obtaining  a  single  shot,  when  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that 
dinner  would  be  very  "apropos  ;"  so  we  sat  down  on  the  bank 
of  a  stream  flowing  into  a  little,  basin-like  lake  among  the 
hills  and  ate  some  hard  crackers  and  maple  sugar,  and  drank 
from  the  clear,  limpid  waters  of  the  brook.  I  enjoyed  that 
rough,  mountain  meal,  more  than  many  a  one  to  which  I  have 


T02  HORSE   SHOE    BASIN. 

sat  down  at  well  spread  tables,  with  all  the  comforts  and  del- 
icacies of  civilization  and  home  about  me.  Notwithstanding, 
however  pleasant  this  sort  of  living  may  be  as  a  change,  give 
me  home  fare  for  a  regular  diet  ! 

Dinner  finished,  we  set  out  for  the  top  of  the  range.  We 
had  thus  far  been  hunting  in  what  is  called  Horse  Shoe 
Basin.  The  main  chain,  lining  the  gorge,  seems  to  swerve 
suddenly  inward,  the  edges  meeting,  forming  the  head  of  the 
valley.  Beside  this  mountain  arrangement,  however,  there 
is  another  feature  or  characteristic  connected  with  the  basin 
that  would  of  itself  give  the  name  to  this  section.  At  the 
upper  extremity,  looking  directly  toward  the  perpendicular 
face  of  the  mountain  that  rises  up  to  the  hight  of  three  thous- 
and feet,  you  see,  plainly  marked,  a  stratum  of  galenious  rock 
in  the  form  of  a  perfect  horseshoe.  Beginning  at  the  left  hand 
extremity  of  the  base,  it  sweeps  up  and  around  with  a  regular 
but  sharp  curve,  reaching  the  foot  of  the  wall  at  the  right 
hand  limit  at  about  the  same  distance  from  the  center  of  sym- 
metrical curvature.  It  it  a  very  peculiar  formation  and  seems 
as  though  it  were  the  mark  left  by  an  immense  wave,  (perhaps 
of  the  Deluge)  as  it  rolled  along  the  mountain  side,  and  rose 
with  a  steady  swell  to  dash  over  the  highest  peaks.  But  one 
sees  wonders  among  these  grand  old  temples  of  granite. 

We  toiled  up  the  almost  insurmountable  steeps,  stop- 
ping every  few  yards  to  regain  breath  for  new  efforts, 
until  we  reached  the  top  of  the  "  divide"  as  it  is  called.  We 
were  now  upon  the  crest  of  a  huge  ridge  of  rock,  almost  as 
elevated  as  the  surrounding  mountains,  and  which  ran  along 
the  spur,  joining  two  very  high  peaks.  It  was  comparatively 
level  for  a  width  of  about  eight  yards,  and  offered  us  a  fine 
opportunity  of  stealing  upon  the  game  that  we  felt  confident 
were  there.     However,  we  wandered  about  in  search  of  moun- 


HORSE   SHOE   BASIN.  IO3 

tain  sheep  for  some  time,  without  even  seeing  any  animal 
larger  than  a  cony,  until,  at  last  hearing  a  loud  whistle  from 
the  top  of  the  ''  divide  ",  we  dropped  instantly,  in  time  to  see 
a  large  buck  antelope  slowly  walking  down  toward  us.  We 
were  in  high  expectation  of  getting  a  fair  shot,  when,  by  some 
mischance,  he  scented  us  and  was  off.  We  did  not  interrupt 
or  hasten  his  flight  as  we  well  knew  that  where  he  went  the 
herd  was  sure  to  be.  We  were  not  disappointed  in  this  an- 
ticipation for  upon  creeping  to  the  edge  of  the  eminence  over 
which  he  had  disappeared  we  saw  several  animals  grazing  about 
a  half  a  mile  away.  It  was  too  long  a  shot,  so  we  concluded 
to  take  a  turn  around  the  mountain  that  constituted  one  limit 
of  the  "divide".  While  stumbling  and  half  running  down 
among  the  loose  stones  and  rocks,  Mr  Mills  caught  sight  of  a 
splendid  animal  which  had  not  yet  seen  us.  He  came  bound- 
ing along  to  within  seventy  five  yards  of  us.  He  could  easily 
have  killed  it,  but,  wishing  to  give  me  a  good  shot,  he 
whistled  to  me,  I,  being  at  the  time  some  distance  behind, 
and  not  looking  in  the  direction  from  which  the  antelope 
had  come.  I  ran  forward,  but  the  very  instant  I  came  in 
sight  of  him,  he  dashed  directly  in  under  the  mountain  side 
and  out  of  sight  before  I  could  even  stop,  much  less  shoot. 
We  hunted  in  this  manner  all  day,  but  after  our  labor,  suc- 
ceed ed  in  obtaining  only  two  shots,  and  those  with  the 
utmost  difficulty. 

I  have  entered  into  a  detailed  and  perhaps  too  long  a 
description  of  antelope  hunting,  in  order  to  show  just  what 
obstacles  and  disadvantages  it  is  necessary  to  overcome,  to 
ensure  success.  You  are  obliged  to  climb  a  great  deal  (and 
rough  climbing  at  that)  and  calculate  the  exact  position  of 
the  game,  if  stationary,  or  if  moving,  the  direction  which  they 
are  likely  to   pursue,   judging   from  those  movements.     You 


I04  SUNSET   FROM   THE    ''DIVIDE. 

take  into  consideration  the  quarter  from  whence  the  wind 
is  blowing,  and  the  currents  of  air  between  you  and  the 
game;  also  the  location  of  the  "intercepts",  the  course 
of  any  gorge  into  which  they  may  be  entering,  the  color  of 
your  clothing,  which  should  be  as  nearly  that  of  the  grayish 
white  rocks  as  possible  ;  you  must  be  careful  of  the  gleam  of 
your  rifle  barrel  ;  you  must  let  no  ribbon  or  cravat  ends  flutter 
in  the  wind,  step  on  the  grassy  tufts,  not  upon  the  rocks  ;  walk 
upon  the  balls  of  your  feet,  not  touch  the  heel  ;  not  expose 
one  inch  of  your  person  without  first  examining  carefully  the 
ground  uncovered  ;  make  calculations  for  distance  in  the 
arrangements  of  your  rifle  sights,  &c.  It  is  very  different 
hunting  from  that  which  it  is  supposed  to  be  by  most  eastern 
people.  My  ideas  were  completely  revolutionized  by  my  first 
days  experience.     It  is  very  exciting  but  very  fatiguing  sport. 

We  started  for  camp  at  about  six  o'clock.  It  was  then 
just  sun  set  upon  the  summit  of  the  range,  but  we  could  look 
down  into  the  valley  below,  where  the  gloom  of  twilight  brood- 
ed over  the  already  darkening  forests. 

What  glorious  sunsets  are  seen  from  such  a  spot  !  Would 
that  the  brush  of  some  Raphael  or  Vandyke  could  preserve 
to  posterity,  scenes  like  these  !  Would  that  they  could  trans- 
late those  rich,  lustrous  tints  and  warmth-giving  rays  from 
a  crimson  sky  to  their  canvas  !  What  a  world's  treasure 
they  would  become  !  I  cannot  describe,  but  only  intimate, 
the  beauty  of  such  inimitable  views. 

Imagine  a  central  spot  of  golden  fire,  just  peeping 
through  the  peaks  of  some  far  off"  snowy  range,  and  casting 
ofl"  into  space  a  radiant  halo  of  a  thousand  colors  that  per- 
haps tinge  with  their  effulgence  the  edges  of  the  storm 
clouds  that  are  forever  hanging  among  these  wintry-white 
pyramids. 


SUNSET   FROM   THE    "DIVIDE."  IO5 

As  the  eye  wanders  along  the  horizon  and  down  into  the 
ravines,  it  lingers  a  moment  here  and  there  upon  an  open 
patch  of  velvety  grass  among  the  interminable  gray  and 
black  of  the  forest,  and  follows  the  dashes  of  mellow  sunlight 
that  streak  its  margin  and  deepen  the  lengthening  shadows. 

The  ever  changing,  ever  fading  combinations  of  light  and 
shade  that  checquer  and  fleck  the  forest  colorings  of  the 
mountain  sides,  supplies  the  mind  with  new  subjects  for  admi- 
ration, and  the  eye  for  delight.  Here  is  a  rocky  glen  opening 
out  into  the  valley,  and  below  us,  at  our  very  feet,  a  great 
basin,  walled  in  by  snow-streaked  mountains,  with  two  blue 
lakes,  set  like  gems  in  its  soft  green,  and  a  tinted  stream 
lying  across  it  like  a  ribbon.  Side  by  side,  blending  in  one 
matchless  picture,  were  summer  and  winter,  day  and  night, 
light  and  shade. 

Eighty  miles  to  the  South,  Pike's  Peak,  like  an  old  castl^, 
the  setting  sun  tinging  with  gold  its  rocky  battlements,  lies 
dim  and  dreamy  against  the  sky,  just  where  the  crimson  melts 
into  blue. 

Ninety  miles  to  the  north  stands  Long's  Peak,  sublime, 
rugged  and  corrugated,  its  feet  wreathed  in  pine,  and  its  head 
crested  with  snow.  A  dark,  irregular  wall  at  the  verge  of 
the  sensible  horizon,  sweeps  grandly  between,  and  beyond, 
on  either  end,  merges  into  the  purple  obscurity.  It  reveals 
every  hue,  from  the  dark,  rich  brown  of  the  nearest  hills,  to 
the  unsullied  white  of  the  snowy  range.  Away  to  the  west 
stretches  this  great  chain,  and  upon  the  farthest  limit  of 
vision,  rise  the  perfect  white  pyramids  of  snow,  waiting  to 
impale  the  dying  sun. 

We  stood  in  silent  appreciation  of  this  vast  mountain 
panorama  not  heeding  the  moments  as  they  flew. 


I06  TEMPERATURE    ON   THE   MOUNTAINS. 

Last  night  those  farthest  peaks  were  robed  in  the  un- 
earthly light  of  another  world:  Now  they  are  arrayed  in  a 
fiery  glory  almost  too  dazzling  to  look  upon.  The  eye  raises 
its  glance  from  the  now  dark  valley  at  our  feet  ;  it  reaches 
the  summit  of  a  mountain,  then  another  still  higher,  then 
piercing  the  evening  clouds,  it  rests  upon  a  cone  of  purest 
white  away  above  the  rolling  mist ;  then  out  into  almost 
boundless  azure  depths  to  still  loftier  crests  ;  peaks  that  are 
a  part  of  air.  The  sun  goes  down  ;  but  the  cold  night  air 
assails  us  in  vain.  Still  we  stand  upon  that  everlasting  hill, 
in  utter  silence.  How  the  glories  of  painter  and  poet,  earthly 
ambitions,  human  life  itself,  dwarf  before  it  !  In  wonder, 
humility  and  thanfulness  we  remembered  the  work  of  the 
Great  Artist. 

Slowly  turning  from  a  spot  forever  consecrated  to  the 
most  enobling  memories,  we  wended  our  way  back  to  our 
camp.  The  lower  we  descended  the  darker  it  became  until 
at  last  we  were  obliged  to  move  along  with  lessened  rapidity 
in  order  to  reconnoitre  our  path.  As  we  came  upon  the  sum- 
mit of  the  "divide,  "  a  large,  gray  fox  sprang  up  and  dashed 
directly  into  a  herd  of  antelope,  which,  being  thus  suddenly 
alarmed,  ran  swiftly  over  the  ridge  and  disappeared  before  we 
could  prepare  for  a  shot.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  had 
seen  over  sixty. 

We  now,  having  reached  the  valley  bottom,  plodded  along 
through  the  rank  grass  and  over  the  fallen  timber  of  the 
forest    until  we  arrived  at  camp,  tired  and  out  of  breath. 

In  the  evening  we  gathered  about  the  camp  fire  and  many 
were  the  stories  and  jokes  that  went  the  rounds.  We  spent  a 
happy,  cozy  hour,  and  at  ten  o'clock  wrapped  ourselves  up  in 
our  blankets  and  soon  fell  sound  asleep. 


THE   ASCENT   OF   '*  SILVER    HEELS.  IO7 

On  the  following  morning  we  were  stirring  before  the  sun 
peeped  over  the  eastern  mountains.  We  washed  at  the  clear 
brook  that  wound  along  within  fifty  yards  of  the  camp,  but  it 
was  not  the  refreshing  sensation  that  we  had  expected,  for  to 
apply  ice-cold  water  to  face  and  hands  blistered  by  sunburns, 
is  not  the  pleasantest  sort  of  ablutions. 

The  little  water  that  we  had  left  in  our  tin  cups  on  the 
night  previous,  was  now  all  transformed  into  ice.  Our  hands 
were  blue  and  numb  with  the  cold,  for  as  yet,  the  warm  rays  of 
sun  had  not  flooded  the  clearing  where  every  morning  we 
went  to  "reanimate"  our  stiffened  bodies. 

After  breakfast,  we  made  an  early  start  for  the  hunting 
grounds,  my  friend  Stapler  accompanying  us,  armed  only  with 
a  pistol,  as  he  had  given  us  to  understand  that  it  was  his  in- 
tention to  enjoy  the  scenery,  while  wc  did  the  shooting. 

At  first,  we  struck  directly  west  and  reaching  the  timber 
line,  crossed  a  narrow  neck  of  wooded  land  that  lay  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain,  and  began  the  ascent  of"  Silver-Heels." 
This  occupied  four  hours  and  a  quarter  ;  however,  at  last  we 
seated  ourselves  in  triumph  upon  the  summit  of  the  range, 
almost  to  the  highest  pinnacle. 

The  last  three  or  four  hundred  yards  of  the  mountain 
formed  a  perfect  pyramid,  which  ran  up  so  sharply  that  it  was 
impossible  to  scale  it,  even  when  dragging  yourself  up  by 
main  strength  of  arms,  from  one  jutting  stone  to  another. 
From  this  spot  we  commanded  an  extended  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  even  a  finer  one  than  that  of  the  day  before. 
The  atmosphere  was  very  rare  and  of  exquisite  clearness.  On 
one  side  of  this  immense  continental  ridge,  stretched  the 
Arkansas  Valley,  upon  the  other,  the  Platte  Valley.  We  look- 
ed down  upon  Montgomery's    Peak,  and  were  on    the  same 

N 


I08  VIEW    FROM    THE   SUMMIT. 

level  with  Long's  Peak  that  rose  like  a  white  dome  against  the 
sky,  far  off  to  the  southward.  There  was  snow  every  where, 
around  us,  beneath  us,  above  us.  Mountain  tops  that  while 
scaling  them  seemed  limitless,  now  appeared  flattened  and 
diminutive.  A  wide  and  varied  scene  lay  before  us.  With 
the  aid  of  a  bright  sun  and  cloudless  heavens,  we  were  enabled 
to  see  for  almost  incredible  distances.  Below  us,  a  labyrinth 
of  interlacing  valleys  and  rock-bound  dells  ;  further  off,  the 
half  clad  peaks,  standing  out  in  bold  relief  against  the  blue  of 
the  air  ;  beyond  these,  in  the  hazy  distance,  we  could  barely 
trace  the  jagged  and  undulating  outline  of  ranges,  over  a 
hundred  miles  away.  As  we  looked  down  upon  the  head 
waters  of  the  Arkansas,  just  by  the  great  patches  ofsriow  that 
feed  its  tiny  spring,  we  noticed  a  beautiful  cascade.  A  body 
of  ragged,  snowy  foam,  with  disheveled  tresses,  rushes  over 
the  brink  and  comes  singing  down  in  a  slender  column,  swayed 
to  and  fro  by  the  wind,  like  a  long  strand  of  lace.  Passing 
over  the  edge,  the  thin  sheet  of  water  breaks  into  a  delicate, 
white  net-work  ;  then  into  myriads  of  shining  beads,  and  finally 
into  long  sparkling  threads — an  exquisite  silken  fringe  to  the 
great,  white  curtain  above. 

Mountain  scenery  is  the  same  every  where,  yet  totally 
differing  in  many,  if  not  all,  of  its  features. 

As  we  stood  yesterday  upon  the  summit  of  the  ''divide" 
and  watched  the  setting  sun,  we  saw  a  true  mountain  picture: 
To-day  as  we  stand  almost  on  the  apex  of  Mount  Silver  Heels, 
we  have  before  us  another  panorama  of  every  constituent  of 
grandeur,  softness  and  beauty,  spread  out  with  the  same 
lavishness  and  prodigality  of  the  richness  of  these  sublime 
monuments  of  nature's  wealth,  and  yet  it  is  not  the  same  view 
that  we  beheld,  either  in  outline,  coloring  or  effect.  All 
suggest    difference,    originality  and  distinctness    even    while 


QUAII,   SHOOTING.  IO9 

one  sees  the  same  snow,  the  peculiar  and  characteristic  tint 
of  far  off  haze-fleeced  peaks,  and  the  eternal  green  of  the 
timber,  and  brown  and  red  of  the  bare  rocks. 

There  is  no  language  that  can  grasp  by  its  copiousness 
nor  portray  by  its  expressiveness  such  scenes  as  these.  They 
appeal  directly  to  the  sentiments,  the  heart.  It  is  not  so 
much  an  understanding  of,  as  it  is  a  communion  ivith,  these 
works  of  nature  that  consciously  fills  and  satisfies  the  mind. 
But,  strikingly  beautiful  as  was  this  view,  we  were  compelled, 
by  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  to  leave  the  crest  of  the  range, 
and  descend.  We  bent  our  steps  toward  Horse  Shoe  Basin, 
where  we  had  seen  so  many  antelope  upon  the  day  before, 
hoping  to  meet  with  an  equal  share  of  good  fortune.  While 
walking  leisurely  along,  we  discovered  a  large  flock  of  moun- 
tain quail  among  the  rocks.  At  first  we  did  not  notice  them 
on  account  of  their  plumage  being  of  exactly  the  same  shade 
of  color  as  the  rocks.  They  are  about  three  times  the  size  of 
the  eastern  bird,  bearing  the  same  name,  and  are  so  wild  that 
they  are  tame  ;  if  this  apparently  contradictory  statement 
may  be  used.  I  mean  that  they  live  among  such  wild  sur- 
roundings, seldom  if  ever  intruded  upon  by  any  human  beings, 
that  they  are  strangers  to  such  a  feeling  as  fear  of  man  or 
fire  arms,  and,  supposing  a  person  to  be  some  harmless  animal, 
or  not  caring  in  the  least  for  him,  they  scarcely  move  away 
at  his  approach,  but  will  sit  perfectly  still  until  almost  cap- 
tured. We  shot  six  of  them  in  nearly  as  many  minutes  and 
then  only  stopped  because  our  ammunition  began  to  run  low, 
and  we  feared  being  left  without  any,  especially  as  we  had 
antelope  in  prospect.  Mr.  Mills  strung  them  together,  and 
Stapler  volunteered  to  act  in  the  capacity  of  game  carrier 
for  the  remainder  of  the  day,  to  which  we  gladly  assented, 
being  already  burdened  with  our  rifles. 


no  MASTER    "BRUIN      AT   CAMP. 

On  arriving  at  the  mountain  top  overlooking  the  basin, 
we  caught  a  glimpse  of  some  sheep,  but  were  unsuccessful  in 
approaching  them,  they  taking  a  fright  for  some  unknown 
cause  and  dashing  up  the  side  of  the  "divide"  out  of  sight. 

Further  down  we  came  in  sight  of  a  large  herd  of  ante- 
lope, and  after  crawling  on  our  very  faces,  inch  by  inch,  for  a 
hundred  yards,  we  succeeded  in  obtaining  three  pretty  fair 
shots,  and  in  wounding  one.  We  hastily  followed  them,  as 
we  supposed  up  a  narrow  gorge,  leading  to  one  of  the  two 
little  lakes  of  which  I  have  spoken,  but  on  arriving  there,  no 
game  was  in  sight.  We  then  started  out  upon  a  long  chase, 
leaving  Mr.  Stapler  lying  lazily,  in  a  ravine,  about  a  mile  back. 
We  returned  after  sometime,  not  having  been  able  to  discover 
their  whereabouts,  so  we  started  back  to  camp.  As  we  were 
leaving  the  basin,  we  noticed  the  tracks  of  a  large  herd  that 
had,  apparently,  just  passed  over  the  ground  in  a  run.  We 
concluded  immediately,  that  these  were  the  animals  we  had 
seen,  so  hastened  on,  lifting  the  trail  as  we  proceeded  ;  but, 
as  it  led  us  directly  past  the  camp,  we  desisted  there  and 
abandoned  the  pursuit  of  game  of  any  description  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day,  it  then  being  nearly  supper  time. 

On  approaching,  we  found  the  mules  in  a  state  of  wild 
excitement.  They  snorted,  stamped  upon  the  ground  with 
their  hoofs,  and  uneasily  moved  from  one  place  to  another,  as 
if  in  mortal  terror  of  some,  as  yet,  unseen  danger.  We  did 
not  understand  what  it  all  meant  until  our  guide  informed  us 
that  this  was  the  surest  indication  of  the  presence  of  master 
"  bruin."  This  intelligence  was  not  calculated  to  put  us  en- 
tirely at  our  ease,  especially  when  he  took  us  out  in  the  woods 
a  few  steps  and  pointed  out  the  bear's  tracks  in  the  yielding 
soil,  plainly  noticeable  by  the  bent  and  crushed  reeds,  and 
fresh  and  clearly  defined  foot-marks. 


DEER   AND   GROUSE    HUNTING.  Ill 

We  examined  everything  about  camp  carefully,  but  find- 
ing that  nothing  was  missing,  were  contented.  Mr.  Mills, 
who  up  to  this  time  had  been  in  the  best  of  spirits,  now  com- 
plained of  a  severe  headache  and  seemed  so  dejected,  that  his 
indisposition  cast  a  gloom  over  every  one's  feelings.  He  was 
utterly  ijnable  to  attend  to  the  cooking,  or  indeed  any  other 
little  camp  duties,  so  we  relieved  him  as  far  as  we  could  ;  but, 
in  the  midst  of  our  bustle,  Mr.  Reed,  who  had  been  out  shoot- 
ing and  prospecting  all  day,  came  in,  and  set  about  preparing 
the  supper.  There  were  no  stories  nor  bear  yarns  told  at  the 
camp-fire  that  night.  We  all  retired  early,  fatigued  with  the 
day's  tramp. 

On  the  following  morning,  Mr.  Mills  felt  so  much  better, 
that  Stapler  and  I  were  warranted  in  leaving  him  to  take  a 
turn  through  the  woods  in  search  of  deer  and  grouse.  We 
ascended  the  opposite  mountain  as  far  as  the  timber  line,  then 
followed  it  down  the  ravine  for  some  distance,  without  obtain- 
ing a  shot,  except  at  a  cony.  By  this  time  we  were  pretty 
thoroughly  tired  of  the  chase  ;  and,  feeling  worn  out  by  such 
continued  exertions,  determined  to  sit  down  upon  a  fallen 
tree  trunk  and  spend  the  morning  in  a  rather  more  quiet  and 
less  wearisome  manner. 

Two  short  hours  slipped  insensibly  away  as  we  sat,  chat- 
ting and  enjoying  our  wild  surroundings,  and  upon  consulting 
our  watches  we  could  scarcely  force  ourselves  to  believe  that 
it  was  dinner  time.  However,  not  caring  to  disturb  Mr.  Mills' 
slumber  by  a  too  early  return,  we  amused  ourselves  by  prac- 
ticing with  our  rifles  ;  and  we  accomplished  wonders  as  marks- 
men. About  noon,  we  crossed  the  valley,  and  returned  under 
cover  of  the  forest,  to  the  camp,  when  we  ate  some  dry  crack- 
ers and  drank  some  cold  water,  which  was  '•  dinner."  In  the 
afternoon,  we  found  entertainment  in  target  shooting,  which 


112  FAREWELL   TO   CAMP   LIFE. 

was  carried  on  at  some  distance  from  camp,  in  order  to  be  out 
of  hearing  of  Mr.  Mills.  We  kept  at  this  wanton  fusilade 
until  supper  time.  After  the  meal  had  been  finished,  we  did 
not  linger  long  about  the  fire,  but  very  soon  sought  our  blank- 
ets and  refreshing  sleep. 

On  inquiring  concerning  Mr.  Mills'  health  upon  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  we  found  him  so  much  improved  that  he  was 
able  to  attend  to  the  necessary  preparations  for  leaving  the 
mountain  and  returning  to  Fair  Play.  We  hastily  packed  the 
wagon  and  started,  taking  a  last,  long  look  at  the  spot,  which 
perhaps  we  should  never  see  again,  and  where  we  had  derived 
an  experience  that  would  remain  with,  and  influence  us  during 
the  remainder  of  our  lives.  It  was  with  .positive  regret  that 
we  bade  adieu  to  the  old  camp,  and  instinctively  we  were 
reminded  of  another  farewell  to  the  same  rough  but  happy 
life,  that  occurred  three  long  years  ago  ;  and  how  much  has 
transpired  since  then  !  How  many  events  have  occurred  in 
our  individual  history  to  improve  or  mar  our  characters.  Our 
wagon,  however  soon  jolted,  unceremoniously,  all  thoughts  of 
a  sentimental  description  out  of  us,  and,  as  we  enjoyed  the 
beauty  of  the  scenery  through  which  we  were  riding,  we  soon 
forgot  that  such  a  camp  had  ever  existed.  We  were  passing 
over  the  road  which  we  had  traversed  in  coming  out  from  Fair 
Play,  so  that  it  afforded  us  a  source  of  continual  interest  to 
recognize  the  different  points  of  special  beauty  or  singularity 
as  they  appeared. 

When  we  came  to  ascend  the  range,  we  found  it  utterly 
impossible  for  the  mules  to  drag  the  heavily  loaded  wagon  up 
after  them.  It  was  as  much  as  a  pedestrian  could  do  to  scale 
this  fearfully  steep  ascent.  We  were  obliged  to  unpack  the 
wagon  and  carry  each  article  up  the  hill  upon  our  backs.  It 
was  very  warm  down  in  the  valley,  so  we  had   a  rather  sorry 


FAREWELL   TO  CAMP   LIFE.  II3 

time  of  it,  especially  as  the  path  rose  at  an  angle  of  more 
than  forty-five  degrees.  After  having  accomplished  the 
climb,  we  rested  for  sometime  upon  the  summit  and  then  con- 
tinued our  journey,  soon  reaching  the  Platte  parks  and  glens, 
of  which  I  spoke  when  describing  the  ''  out-trip." 

Steep,  narrow  canons,  unmarked  by  any  trail,  abounded  on 
all  sides,  which,  walled  in  by  smooth,  precipitous  rocks,  were 
impassable  for  any  quadruped  less  agile  than  a  mountain  goat. 
Along  the  bottom  of  the  gorge  that  led  us  down  from  the  top 
of  the  pass,  a  brook  leaped  and  plashed  over  the  rocks  in  a 
sheet  of  silver.  The  overlooking  hills  were  thickly  studded 
with  shrubs  of  oak  and  tall  trees  of  pine,  spruce,  and  fir.  Wild 
cherries  and  clusters  of  purple  berries,  were  noticeable  upon 
either  side  as  we  wound  down  among  the  steep,  dangerous 
gorges.  We  saw  one  or  two  antelopes,  one  of  which  we  at- 
tempted to  kill  but  he  saw  us  too  soon  and  galloped  up  a  side 
ravine  out  of  range. 


CHAPTER    VI  I. 

In  Fair  Play  Again. —  Three  of  Colorado's  Great  Men. —  The 
Bakers  Ra7ich  Imposition.  —  A  Characteristic  Speech. — 
Miss  Elegance. —  The  View  from  the  Summit  of  the  Range. 
— One  Link  in  the  Chain  of  Western  Life. —  T lie  Ride  down 
Turkey  Creek  Cano7i. — Denver  once  more. 

We  arrived  in  Fair  Play  at  noon,  in  time  for  a  good  din- 
ner at  the  Clinton  House.  Old  Dave  Miller  and  his  busy  lit- 
tle wife,  seemed  right  glad  to  see  us  again,  and  at  once  install- 
ed us  in  a  comfortable  room,  that  needs  no  interrogation  point 
after  it.  We  went  as  soon  as  we  had  finished  dinner  and  en- 
gaged our  seats  in  the  stage  that  was  to  leave  for  Denver, 
upon  the  following  morning.  We  were  obliged  to  decline  a 
very  kind  invitation  to  visit  the  silver  mines  belonging  to  the 
company  of  which  Messrs.  Mills  and  Reed  were  members, — 
also  one  from  a  Mr.  Paul,  graduate  of  Williams  College,  and  at 
present  engaged  in  herding  and  mining,  and  in  practicing  law. 

Notwithstanding  the  unattractiveness  of  Fair  Play,  we 
have  met  some  very  kind  and  gentlemanly  men  there,  and  on 
their  account  will  ever  put  a  diminuent  expression  in  our 
severe  criticism  of  its  hospitality. 

Early  on    Thursday  morning,  we  bade  adieu  to  all  our 
friends,    and   rattled    off  in  the  roughest,  jerkiest    old  stage 
coach  that  can  well  be  imagined.     It  was  hardly  worth  the 
O 


Il6        THREE  OF  COLORADO'S  GREAT  MEN. 

name,  but  nevertheless,  we  hailed  it  with  pleasure,  as  it  was 
the  means  by  which  we  were  to  reach  civilization  once  more. 
We  have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  there  is  nothing,  after 
all,  like  civilization  for  real  pleasure. 

We  had  for  company  three  lawyers  ;  the  chief-justice  of 
the  territory,  an  associate  justice,  and  attorney  general,  all 
high  sounding  titles,  but,  by  no  means,  attached  to  correspond- 
ingly high  toned  men,  though  they  ivcre  rather  "high  toned'' 
in  a  certain  way  after  all.  They  had  he^njis/n?ig,  but  looked 
as  if  they  had  been  ''somewhere  else."  Their  conversation 
savored  of  the  horrible  as  they  mirthfully  recounted  some  of 
the  most  sickening  murders  and  crimes  that  had  been  com- 
mitted in  that  neighborhood,  and  of  the  execution  of  the  law, 
&c.,  &c,  A  wholesale  massacre  that  had  occured  some  months 
previous,  on  the  road  upon  which  we  were  then  traveling, 
seemed  to  afford  them  infinite  satisfaction  and  relish,  for  they 
discussed  every  particular  with  a  gusto  that  rather  struck  us, 
who  were  not  lawyers,  and  did  not  know  how  to  appreciate 
a  right  clever  manslaughter ;  but  we  got  along  very  well 
together,  for  they  shared  their  loose  lap-blankets  with  us,  and 
we,  in  turn,  listened  most  attentively  to  their  learned 
harangues. 

Unfortunately,  (.^)  at  a  little  place  called  Hamilton,  we 
lost  our  pleasant  {J)  companions,  who  there  changed  coaches 
for  Breckinridge,  where,  innocently  I  suppose,  there  had  been 
a  great  murder  committed,  for  nothing  would  have  drawn 
them  sooner  from  their  rods  and  lines,  I  am  convinced.  I 
would'nt  venture  to  say  that  they  went  to  ferret  out  the  crim- 
inal with  all  their  lawyer's  tact  and  sagacity,  or  to  enjoy  the 
realization  of  their  nearness  to  the  real  man  who  had  had 
bravery  enough  to  be  'singular.'  I  should  judge  that  strength 
of  character,  (in  a  hanging  operation,)  was  their  hobby. 


THE   BAKER'S   RANCH   IMPOSITION. 


117 


After  their  departure  we  were  the  sole  occupants  of  the 
stage,  with  a  single  exception  in  the  person  of  an  old  man, 
who  sat  out  in  front  with  the  driver.  We  passed  through  the 
entire  length  of  South  Park  just  as  we  had  come  out,  and  fol- 
lowed the  same  road  until  we  reached  Hepborn's  ranch, 
where  we  received  some  additional  company  by  the  entrance 
of  a  pleasant  looking,  elderly  man  with  his  daughter  and  her 
little  baby.  She  was  quite  young  and  very  pretty,  so  that 
this  couple  formed  a  most  agreeable  acquisition  to  the  party. 
Mr.  Davis,  the  gentleman,  was  talkative  and  entertaining  ; 
and  in  a  short  time  proved  so  genial,  that  we  had  not  been 
riding  a  mile,  before  we  were  chatting  away  in  the  most  socia- 
ble manner. 

The  road  now  became  more  uneven,  although  it  ran 
along  between  hills  of  much  less  magnitude  than  those  we 
had  met  with  previously ;  however,  at  about  ten  miles  below 
Hepborn's,  we  passed  through  some  fearful  gorges  and  steep- 
sided  ravines,  that  rivaled  even  the  Clear  Creek  Caiion. 

At  Baker's  ranch,  a  man  got  in  who  had  no  business  to 
do  so,  as  the  ''jerky"  was  already  well  filled,  there  being  two 
upon  each  of  the  three  narrow  seats.  But  he  possessed  that 
characteristic  very  comonly  and  appropriately  termed  ''brass," 
so  that  without  further  ado,  he  mounted  the  wheels  and 
climbed  in  beside  Stapler,  who  sat  next  me  on  the  second 
seat,  the  back  seat  being  given  to  the  lady  and  her  escort. 
He  was  very  officious  in  addressing  the  young  mother  in  re- 
gard to  her  baby,  wanted  to  nurse  "the  little  one,"  and  asked 
her  a  thousand  questions  concerning  her  child,  her  father, 
herself,  her  home,  and  everything  else  which  any  light-headed 
individual  might  think  of,  thoroughly  disgusting  us  all  there- 
by. He  proved  to  be  a  baptist  minister  stationed  at  Denver. 
Every  once  in  a  while  such  a  sentence  as  "Ah  !  My  dea'  "itty" 


Il8  A   CHARACTERISTIC   SPEECH. 

one,  will  'ou  not  "turn"  to  my  awns?"  'would  leave  us  in  per- 
plexing doubt,  as  to  which  of  the  two  was  the  bigger  baby. 
He  crowded  us  both  in  a  most  unmerciful  manner,  and  pushed 
me  almost  out  of  the  stage,  so  much  so,  that  I  was  obliged  to 
sit  with  my  feet  outside  upon  the  brake.  Every  now  and 
then,  however,  he  would  turn  slowly  around,  with  much  diffi- 
culty unwedging  his  huge  body,  and  observe  with  a  meanly 
sarcastic  smile,  *'!  hope,  gentlemen,  I  do  not  crowd  you  at 
all.'*"  or  "I  trust  you  are  quite  comfortable,  sir."  We  always, 
of  course,  thanked  him  quite  curtly  and  returned  the  wish 
with  interest.  He  annoyed  us  excessively  by  his  ill  humor 
and  disgusting  officiousness  throughout  the  entire  afternoon. 

At  a  station  called  "  White's  Ranch  "  we  gentlemen  were 
standing  in  the  narrow  door  way  of  the  half  house,  half  hotel. 
It  had  been  raining  and  shining  by  turns,  for  sometime  past, 
but  now  had  just  cleared  off  as  if  it  were  going  to  remain  so 
during  the  rest  of  the  day.  We  had  taken  dinner  at  a  little 
place  just  the  other  side  of  Hepborn's,  and  were  now  looking 
forward  to  the  view  that  we  should  obtain  from  the  summit 
of  the  range,  the  base  of  which  we  had  already  reached.  We 
had  been  discussing  the  beauties  and  peculiarities  of  the  ride, 
when  the  driver  came  and  informed  us  that  we  were  to  have 
another  passenger.  We  insisted  upon  his  excluding  said  in- 
dividual, as  there  were  in  the  vehicle  more  than  we  could  con- 
veniently accommodate  ;  but  we  argued  all  to  no  purpose.  He 
was  inexorable.  What  was  our  dismay  when  we  were  request- 
ed, in  a  steeled  hard  voice  to  "please  step  aside",  and  let  a 
stiff  ungainly  somebody  pass  us.  We  now  went  in  a  body  and 
poured  forth  our  grievances  into  the  unsympathizing  ear  of* 
the  driver.  He  listened  attentively  with  a  merry  twinkle  in 
his  blue  eye,  and  then  quietly  replied,  "Get  in  gentlemen, 
make  yourselves  comfortable,  put  your  arms  around  her  and 


MISS   ELEGANCE.  II9 

squeeze  her  like  the  d — 1.     This  was  the  most  characteristic 
speech  that  I  had  heard  since  entering  the  mountain. 

The  preacher  climbed  over  front,  alongside  the  driver, 
leaving  the  new  arrival  and  our  two  selves  as  the  occupants 
of  the  second  seat.  She  was  the  properest  person  in  all  the 
world,  I  think.  Primness  is  no  name  for  it.  She  had  a  certain, 
indescribable  manner  of  her  own,  to  perform  even  the  slightest 
movements.  Her  whole  air  was  preciseness  itself  Her  in- 
fluence, method  and  her  appearance  a  mixture  of  everything 
rigid  and  frigid.  When,  I,  with  difficulty  repressing  a  smile, 
innocently  suggested  that  a  seat  between  Stapler  and  myself 
might  be  preferable,  she  drew  up  to  her  full  hight  and  an- 
swered through  closed  teeth,  while  casting  her  eyes  askant  on 
the  ground  and  almost  biting  her  lip,  "  No  !  I  thank  you  Sir, 
I  desire  to  be  seated  upon  the  extremity"  ;  and  she  was  seat- 
ed upon  the  extremity  with  a  vengence.  Verily,  we  perform- 
ed her  desire  to  the  letter,  for  she  was  shoved  as  far  out  as  she 
could  conveniently  hang  on,  though  not  with  malice  prepense 
but  from  the  force  of  circumstances. 

Stapler  was  sitting  with  both  his  feet  out  of  the  stage,  and 
I,  turned  side-wise,  clinging  with  all  my  strength  to  his  body 
for  fear  of  tumbling  into  Miss  Elegance's  rigid  arms^  which 
I  am  inclined  to  think  would  have  taken  some  of  the  stiffness 
out  of  them.  Yet,  withal,  she  was  not  bad  looking.  She  prov- 
ed to  be  a  "school  marm",  which  fact,  explained  her  in- 
tensely correct  grammer  and  pronunciation — even  of  a  sigh. 
I  went  so  far  as  to  notice  that  she  breathed  just  twenty  times 
in  every  minute,  by  the  watch.  I  guess  this  last  feat  must 
have  required  long  training  and  diligent  practice.  Mr.  Davis, 
the  father  of  the  young  lady,  was,  I  forgot  to  say,  very  corpu- 
lent, and  when  he  politely  proposed  changing  with  Miss 
Elegance,  and  allowing  her  to  occupy  a  place  beside  his  daught- 


120  MISS   ELEGANCE. 

er,  we  fairly  trembled  for  the  consequences.  He  rose  with  a 
genial  smile,  and  bowing  to  her  as  well  as  the  rolling  of  the 
"jerky"  would  permit,  offered  her  his  seat.  It  was  fairly 
suffocating  to  see  her  as  she  attempted  to  bow  gracefully,  at 
the  same  time  being  almost  pitched  into  the  old  gentleman's 
arms  by  a  sudden  plunge  of  the  wagon,  then  to  hear  her  inco- 
herent but  fearfully  correct  answer.  "  I  should  esteem  it  both 
a  pleasure  and  a  privilege  to  occupy  a  seat  by  the  lady,  but 
would  exceedingly  regret  having  caused  you  such  great  in- 
convenience by  too  hastily  accepting  an  offer,  made  under 
such  disadvantageous  circumstances."  There  was  a  scarcely 
audible  ''whew  !"  went  around  the  coach  as  she  concluded  ; 
but  I  guess  she  did  not  notice  it,  for  she  remained  as  the 
"Danseuse"  in  Hans  Anderson's  Tinsoldier,  "  steadfast  and  up- 
right". We  almost  choked  in  our  endeavors  to  suppress  the 
laughter  caused  by  this  speech  ;  but  the  fun  was  yet  to  come. 
She,  at  last,  with  great  "hauteur"  and  "empressement"  ac- 
cepted his  offer  ( may  she  never  have  another  ! )  and  tried  to 
pass,  without  touching  even  a  hem  of  his  garments,  in  a  space 
which  he  already  well  filled.  This  was  too  amusing  for  any 
one  to  repress  his  risibles.  The  old  man's  face  lit  up  with  a 
jovial  smile  as  he  held  out  his  hand  to  support  her,  but  she 
was  all  ice,  refusing  his  proffered  kindness  and  "squelching" 
him  with  a  look  as  if  he  had  been  a  refractory  school-boy. 
Thinking  that  she  could  step  over  the  loose  carpet  bags  and 
debris,  littering  the  floor  of  the  'jerkey '  ;  and  imagining  that 
she  could  maintain  her  awful  self  possession  amid  the  jolts  and 
tumblings  of  the  rickety  old  box,  she  attempted  the  crossing, 
but  no  sooner  had  she  risen,  than  a  quick  lurch  of  the  coach, 
sent  her  this  time,  straight  into  the  old  gentleman's  arms. 
With  almost  inconceivable  rapidity,  extricating  herself  from 
this  dilemma,  she  only  had  time  to  turn  into  stone  (granite  at 
that)  again,  when  she  went  plunging  over  toward  the  back 


MISS  ELEGANCE.  121 

seat,  but  missing  it,  would  have  gone  out,  had  I  not  quickly 
interposed  an  arm.  Her  motions  now  became  surprisingly 
rapid.  No  one  could  hold  her.  She  went  tumbling  and 
dancing  about  like  a  rubber-doll,  not  a  bit  stiff.  At  the 
moment  when  the  excitement  was  at  its  highest  pitch, 
there  was  suddenly  an  awful  pause  and  we  all  looked 
round  to  see  whether  she  had  fallen  overboard  or  was  under 
the  seat  ;  for  we  had  stationed  ourselves  at  each  of  the 
openings  between  the  standards,  in  order  to  head  her  off  if 
she  attempted  an  escape  through  them.  To  our  surprise 
we  saw  her  sitting  beside  the  lady  with  the  same  imperturba- 
ble expression  and  the  same  rigidity  of  position.  I  dont  like 
to  be  rash,  but  I  would  be  willing  to  state  my  belief  that  that 
woman  or  iron  bar  whichever  she  may  be,  might  start  at  the 
top  and  go  rolling  down  Mount  Vesuvius,  clear  to  the  bottom 
and  then  rise  up  with  a  sublime  composure,  and  go  to  teach- 
ing a  school-boy  to  calculate  the  velocity  of  her  descent.  At 
one  of  the  stations  when  we  changed  the  horses  or  rather 
mules,  she  absolutely  did  lean,  yes,  lean  just  a  trifle  toward 
Mr.  Davis  and  said  to  him  in  a  voice,  mathematically  modu- 
lated, '*Iam  constrained  Sir,  to  insist  upon  your  again  oc- 
cupying this  seat,  and  with  many  thanks  for  your  protracted 
kindness. "  It  was  very  unkind  in  us  to  laugh,  but  there  was 
not  one  in  the  party  who  could  command  self  possession 
sufficient  to  help  it.  Nothing  touched  her  feelings,  though,  if 
we  might  judge  by  her  expression  of  imbecile  calmness.  An 
hour  or  two  passed  by  in  social  good  humor  after  the  confu- 
sion of  seat  changing,  and  we  were  all  in  high  spirits,  except 
Miss  Elegance,  who  was  certainly  some  relation  to  Lot's 
wife,  if  there  is  any  virtue  in  inheritance. 

We  were  now  almost  to  the  end  of  the  long  and  arduous 
ascent  of  the  range,  and  were  on  the  qtii  vivc  to  behold   the 


122  VIEW   FROM   THE   SUMMIT   OF  THE   RANGE. 

view  that  we  were  confident  would  greet  us  upon  the  crest. 
The  mules  were  taxed  about  as  heavily  as  their  strength 
would  bear,  and  yet  we  only  dragged  slowly  up  the  winding 
and  rock-obstructed  road.  At  last  we  stopped  upon  the  high- 
est spot.  We  were  fortunate  in  having  a  clear  day,  which 
gave  us  the  view  in  its  full  sublimity.  Eastward,  for  eighty 
miles,  our  eyes  wandered  over  dim,  dreamy  prairies,  spotted 
by  dark  shadows  of  the  clouds  and  the  deeper  green  of  the 
pineries,  intersected  by  faint,  gray  lines  of  road,  and  emerald 
threads  of  timber  along  the  streams,  and  banded  on  the  far 
horizon  with  a  broad,  fading  girdle  of  gold.  Looking  back 
to  the  west,  we  gazed  upon  South  Park,  and  other  amphithea- 
ters of  rich  floral  and  grassy  beauty — gardens  amid  the  utter 
desolation  of  the  mountains — that  were  spread  thousands  of 
feet  below  us  ;  and  beyond,  peak  upon  peak,  until  the  pure 
white  wall  of  the  snowy  range  rose  to  the  infinite  blue  of  the 
sky.  Eight  or  ten  miles  away,  still  to  the  westward,  two 
little  gems  of  lakes  were  set  among  the  rugged  mountains, 
holding  the  shadows  of  the  rocks  and  pines  in  their  transparent 
waters.  Far  beyond,  a  group  of  tiny  lakelets,  eyes  of  the 
landscape,  glittered  and  sparkled  in  their  dark  surroundings 
like  a  cluster  of  stars.  Toward  the  northeast,  we  could  trace 
the  timbers  of  the  Platte,  for  thirty  miles,  almost  to  Denver. 
North,  south,  and  west  swept  one  vast  wilderness  of  mountains 
of  diverse  forms  and  mingling  colors,  with  clouds  of  fleecy 
white,  sailing  airily  among  their  scarred  and  wrinkled  summits. 

After  enjoying  this  grand  picture  for  almost  a  quarter  of 
an  hour,  we  descended  by  the  rough  route  over  hillsides 
crossed  and  recrossed  by  tracks  of  the  grizzly  bear,  and 
through  canons  surprising  us  constantly  with  a  new  wealth  of 
beauty,  which,  however,  we  were  hardly  in  a  proper  condition 
to  appreciate,  owing  to  the  cramped  and  uncomfortable  posi- 
tion in  which  we  had  been  sitting  for  so  long.     We  now  be- 


ONE   LINK   IN   THE   CHAIN   OF  WESTERN   LIFE.  123 

gan  to  experience,  not  the  gnawings  of  hunger,  but  that  ir- 
resistible faintness  which  the  Irishman  so  exactly  described 
as  **  a  sense  of  goneness."  Endeavors  to  talk  and  think  of 
other  matters  were  fruitless  ;  the  odorous  ghosts  of  well  re- 
membered dinners  would  stalk  unbidden  through  the  halls  of 
memory  ;  and  in  vain  we  sought  to  entertain  ourselves  and 
each  other  with  remarks  and  deft  criticisms  upon  our  circum- 
stances and  experiences.  We  all  had  one  overwhelming,  all 
absorbing  experience  just  then,  that  of  *'want,"  so  that  all 
conversation  proved  worse  than  a  failure. 

The  dusk  of  a  mountain  twilight  had  settled  down  among 
the  ravines,  and  the  darkness  of  a  moonless  night  was  already 
brooding  over  us  ;  but  we  were  now  approaching  a  small 
tavern  ranch,  where  we  were  to  get  supper.  Soon  we  drew 
up  before  the  door  and  alighted.  Several  rough-looking 
backwoodsmen  were  lounging  around  the  bar,  or  sitting  upon 
the  angled  stretch  of  hard  wooden  benches  that  lined  the 
rickety  old  porch.  They  had  just  returned  from  their  day's 
work,  and  were  awaiting  any  news  that  might  be  learned  of 
the  driver  concerning  matters  over  the  range. 

It  was  a  full  half  hour  before,  having  finished  the  meal 
and  having  satisfied  the  *' goneness,"  we  emerged  again  to 
enjoy  the  scene  about  us.  We  noticed  two  immense  ox- 
wagons  coming  along  ;  the  first  drove  through  the  narrow 
opening  between  the  stage  and  the  corner  of  the  porch,  but 
the  second  teamster  being  either  negligent  or  careless  of  his 
duty,  whipped  up  his  oxen  and  came  rumbling  along  regard- 
less of  consequences.  The  front  wheel  of  the  wagon  ran  in- 
side the  corner  post,  carrying  it  completely  away  and  letting 
in  the  porch  roof  But  the  oxen  went  on,  dragging  every- 
thing with  them,  the  wheel  struck  the  second  post,  tearing  it 
almost  out,  and  down  came  the  roof  about  our  ears.  It  was 
P 


124  THE   RIDE   DOWN   TURKEY   CREEK   CANON. 

with  the  utmost  difficulty,  and  only  after  hitching  his  team 
to  the  opposite  end  of  the  wagon,  that  the  driver  could  extri- 
cate his  vehicle  from  among  the  debris.  I  merely  mention 
this  little  episode  in  view  of  its  being  one  link  in  my 
chain  of  western  life. 

In  a  few  moments  we  were  jolting  away  again  with  fresh 
mules,  whose  spirit  gave  consoling  evidence  of  a  quick  stage  ; 
and,  in  accordance  with  our  expectations,  we  found  ourselves 
in  less  than  two  hours,  entering  Turkey  Creek  Cafion.  This 
is  the  most  beautiful,  dangerous,  and  precipitious  of  all  the 
canons  in  the  range.  Almost  perpendicular  walls  of  solid 
rock  rise  from  either  side  of  a  narrow,  but  foaming  mountain 
torrent  that  flows  along  its  stony  bed,  audible  for  many  miles 
by  its  roar.  We  struck  a  pretty  fair  wagon  trail  leading  down 
to  the  left  of  the  stream  and  crossing  it  at  some  distance 
from  the  entrance,  before  it  had  become  of  sufficient  size  to 
be  perilous.  It  was  a  frightful  road,  winding  at  times  along 
the  dizzy  brinks  of  precipices  over  a  thousand  feet  in  vertical 
hight,  anon,  curving  along  the  bare  mountain  side,  a  mere 
notch  in  its  irregular  contour.  Down  the  narrow,  winding 
shelf-roads  our  mules  went  leaping  at  a  sharp  gallop.  It  was 
a  thrilling  ride  ;  for,  at  many  points,  a  divergence  of  six  inches 
from  the  track  would  send  the  coach  rolling  from  five  hundred 
to  a  thousand  feet  down  the  mountain,  into  the  foaming 
stream-bed  of  the  yawning  canon.  Here  is  the  ideal  of 
staging.  For  weeks  afterward  one's  blood  bounds  at  the 
thought  of  its  whirl  and  rush. 

A  narrow,  unsafe  coach  with  four  mules  galloping  down 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  along  a  winding,  narrow,  dizzy  road  at 
nine  or  ten  miles  an  hour  !  Think  of  it  !  The  staging  among 
the  White  Mountains  or  Catskills  is  not  comparable  with  this 
ride  down  Turkey  Creek  Canon.     Here  and  there  the  road 


THE  RIDE  DOWN  TURKEY  CREEK  CANON.      125 

was  half  spanned  by  a  long  freight-wagon,  drawn  by  eight  or 
ten  oxen  and  driven  by  a  regular  "story  book"  mountaineer. 
Very  remarkable  was  the  skill  and  coolness  of  our  driver,  as 
we  rolled  on  our  winding  way.  With  perfect  confidence  and 
nicest  calculation  he  whirled  us  around  sharp  corners  and 
through  the  gap  between  a  wagon  and  the  precipice,  barely 
wide  enough  for  our  wheels,  which  shook  from  them  a  cloud 
of  dust  as  they  swung  around.  With  him,  driving  had  long 
ago  ceased  to  be  an  experimental  accomplishment  and  became 
one  of  the  exact  sciences. 

While  crossing  a  very  risky  piece  of  road,  where  the 
rocky  wall  rose  vertically  upon  one  side  of  the  coach,  and  de- 
scended vertically  upon  the  other  for  a  thousand  feet,  one  of 
the  party  intimated  his  terror  by  sundry  expletives  and  ex- 
pressive interjections,  when  Miss  Elegance,  who  every  once 
in  a  long  while  would  deign  a  remark,  ventured  to  reply  : 
*' As  we  are  taught  to  read  that  the  fowls  of  the  air  lodge  in 
the  branches  of  the  mustard  trees,  so  we  might  warrantably 
conclude  that  we  would  lodge  upon  the  branches  of  yonder 
pines,"  (pointing  downward.)  We  all  thought  this  very  apro- 
pos, indeed  so  much  so  that  for  an  instant  there  was  a  gen- 
eral silence,  then  some  one  faintly  murmured,  ''yes." 

It  was  exceedingly  unfortunate  that  we  were  obliged  to 
pass  the  most  interesting  portion  of  the  road  by  night,  es- 
pecially where  there  is  such  a  collection  of  strangely  shaped 
rocks,  as  to  give  a  name  to  a  section  of  country  thirty  miles 
in  extent.  We  looked  out  at  them  as  we  passed,  but  I  will 
have  to  employ  the  words  of  another,  in  describing  this 
curious  phenomenon  as  seen  by  day  light. 

"What  appeared  to  be  the  ruins  of  giant  cities,  arose  be- 
hind the  walls  of  rock,  casting  their  shadows  across  the 
green.     Rude  natural  towers,  obelisks,  and  pyramids  ;  meno- 


126  DENVER    ONCE   MORE. 

liths  two  hundred  feet  in  hight,  of  a  rich,  red  color,  were 
gathered  in  strange  labyrinthine  groups,  suggesting  arrange- 
ment or  design.  Beyond  the  Platte,  there  was  a  collection  of 
several  hundred  of  these." 

We  saw  some  single  rocks  over  a  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  feet  square,  and  higher  by  ten  feet  than  Grace  Church 
spire.  In  other  localities  were  other  specimens  of  less  mag- 
nitude, but  combining  all  the  variety  of  delicate  coloring  and 
fantastic  outline.  They  seemed  to  have  been  worn  away  by 
time,  and  to  have  assumed  these  peculiar  shapes  solely  by 
the  action  of  wind  and  water.  These  huge  masses  of  red 
sandstone,  standing  like  time-worn  reminders  of  vanished 
pomp  and  splendor,  constitute  the  chief  attraction  and  char- 
acteristic feature  of  Colorado. 

Skirting  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and  lying  within  the 
limits  of  the  plain,  at  a  distance  varying  from  one  to  three 
hundred  yards,  are  what  are  called  "hogbacks."  These  are 
nothing  more  than  sharp  ridges  of  rock,  that  seem  to  have 
been  cast  up  by  the  "setting  back"  of  the  mountains  after 
their  great  upheaval.  This  appears  to  be  the  popular  belief 
among  the  citizens  of  Denver,  and  the  neighboring  cities. 
We  were,  by  this  time,  beginning  to  feel  utterly  fagged  out  by 
our  close  and  uncomfortable  confinement,  and  tedious  ride,  so 
that  we  hailed  the  last  row  of  foot-hills  with  delight,  as  from 
their  summits  we  could  catch  sight  of  the  lights  in  Denver. 
On  looking  at  our  watches  we  found  that  it  only  lacked 
twelve  minutes  of  being  two  o'clock,  and  owing  to  the  de- 
ception of  the  plains,  it  proved  to  be  another  hour  before  we 
reached  the  bridge  leading  into  Laramie  Street. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

The  Real  Plains  of  the  West.— The  First  Buffaloes.— The 
Plains  on  Fire. — A  Buffalo  on  the  Track, — Kansas  City. 
The  Ride  from  Cave  City  to  Mammoth  Cave. — Maminotk 
Cave  and  its  Snrroundings. —  Temperature  of  its  Atmos- 
phere. 

Arriving  at  Sargent's  we  found  that  every  room  was  oc- 
cupied, and  that  even  the  parlor  floor  was  covered  with  cots  ; 
so  we  repaired  to  the  Broadwell  House  and  succeeded  in  ob- 
taining comfortable  quarters. 

We  threw  our  wearied  bodies  upon  the  beds,  resting  in 
refreshing  repose.  Every  jarred  bone  and  bruised  muscle 
claimed  its  own  particular  sensation  of  relief  We  lay  awake 
for  a  long  time  in  delicious  rest,  unable  to  sleep  from  the  lux- 
ury of  knowing  what  a  perfect  sleep  awaited  us.  I  doubt  if 
unconsciousness  is  better  than  such  wide  diVi^ke  fullness  of  rest. 
It  was  growing  gray  around  the  eastern  horizon,  when  we  at 
last  closed  our  weary  eyes. 

We  did  not  put  in  an  appearance  the  next  morning,  until 
it  was  almost  too  late  to  be  called  morning  ;  in  fact  we  de- 
scended from  our  room  to  the  dining  hall.  This  pleasant 
duty  over,  we  strolled  down  Laramie  Street,  to  the  Post 
Office,  then  purchased  our  tickets  to  Louisville,  Ky.,  and  en- 
gaged our  berths  in  a  sleeping  car.     After  this,  we  walked 


128  A   VISIT   TO   COLONEL    GREENWOOD. 

down  F.  Street,  and  delivered  a  package  that  had  been  in- 
trusted to  our  care.  » 

Now  we  were  through  all  business,  so  for  the  remainder 
of  the  day,  we  employed  the  time  to  our  own  enjoyment.  Di- 
rectly after  tea,  I  went  over  to  the  Sargent  House,  to  see  Col. 
Greenwood,  while  Stapler  attended  to  our  packing.  While 
conversing  with  the  Colonel  and  Mr.  Sargent,  I  was  presented 
to  two  gentlemen  from  England.  They  were  in  a  certain  way 
connected,  or  identified  with  the  interests  of  the  Denver  and 
Rio  Grande  Rail  Road,  so  that  a  pleasant  and  instructive 
theme  of  conversation  was  immediately  offered. 

We  left  Denver  at  nine  o'clock  the  same  evening,  for 
Kansas  City,  via  Kansas  Pacific  Rail  Road. 

While  getting  one  of  our  trunks  checked,  I  stepped  back 
to  allow  some  one  to  pass,  and  fell  through,  between  the  plat- 
form and  the  train,  a  distance  of  about  ten  feet,  over  a  ''  turn 
table,"  spraining  and  bruising  both  arms,  and  otherwise  rend- 
ering me  ''  hoj^s  de  combat^  Stapler  very  kindly  assisted  me 
to  my  berth,  where,  after  resting  for  some  time,  I  felt  some- 
what relieved  from  the  excessive  pain.  Colonel  Greenwood 
was  down  to  the  depot  to  see  us  off,  and  we  enjoyed  a  few 
minutes  very  pleasant  conversation,  before  the  train  moved. 

We  shall  ever  owe  a  debt  of  gratitude  to  this  kind  and 
generous  friend  for  his  unselfish  efforts  to  make  ours,  a  pleasant 
stay  while  in  Denver,  and  shall  always  remember  him  with  the 
warmest  sentiments  and  most  grateful  appreciation  for  his 
hospitality.  We  were  obliged  to  decline  two  very  kind  and 
pressing  invitations,  one  from  himself,  to  visit  the  new  narrow- 
gauge  road,  and  the  other  from  his  nephew,  to  join  him  in  a 
party  of  pleasure  excursionists  up  the  Turkey  Creek  Canon. 

We  opened  our  eyes  on  the  following  morning,  to  look 


AGRICULTURAL   DISTRICTS   OF   THE   WEST.  129 

out  upon  a  limitless  and  perfectly  level  expanse  of  dried  up, 
parched  plain.  These  were  the  real  Plains.  We  had  had  no 
such  view  while  crossing  upon  the  Union  Pacific  Rail  Road. 
Here  was  a  treeless,  herbless  waste  of  which,  previously,  we 
had  formed  no  conception. 

Whatever  the  eastern  people  may  say  or  write  of  the 
''natural  farms  and  agricultural  districts"  of  the  Great  West, 
it  is  certain  that  their  flowery  descriptions  and  immoderate 
eulogies  of  its  farming  facilities  and  graining  advantages,  can- 
not and  does  not  increase  such  capacity.  In  whichever  way 
we  have  traveled,  since  leaving  an  imaginary  line  running 
north  and  south,  two  hundred  miles  west  of  the  Missouri  River, 
at  Omaha  or  Kansas  City,  there  has  not  been  enough  rich  soil 
to  grow  the  annual  crop  of  potatoes  on  a  Pennsylvania  farm. 
At  Greeley,  which  is  the  pivot,  about  which  revolve  the  spec- 
lative  opinions  of  a  large  mass  of  eastern  men,  we  saw  an  at- 
tempt at  cultivation.  It  was  accomplished  by  the  most  round- 
about means,  viz  :  irrigation.  Among  the  citizens  of  Denver 
it  is,  of  course,  viewed  with  interest,  as  would  any  other  new 
enterprise,  if  started  in  their  immediate  vicinity.  This  in  no 
wise  argues  success.  I  was  told  by  two  of  the  wealthiest 
miners  in  Colorado — and  both  sensible,  intelligent  men — that 
it  was  their  honest  conviction,  founded  upon  personal  investi- 
gation and  observation,  that  Horace  Greeley  has  done  more 
to  injure  Colorado  than  any  other  one  man.  Hundreds  and 
thousands  of  poor,  deluded  emigrants,  hearing  of  this  imagin- 
ary, rich  farming  land,  come  out  here,  bringing  with  them 
their  families,  their  money  (however  little  they  may  possess) 
and  their  all.  The  first  suffer  hunger  and  privation,  not  to 
speak  of  hardships  without  number  ;  the  second  is  lost  in 
spending  it  for  the  worthless  soil  and  still  more  useless  travel, 
and   the   third   is   soon,  instead   of  being  their  "all,"  their 


130  EXPECTATIONS   OF   EMIGRANTS. 

"nothing".  About  two  hundred  of  these  emigrants  came 
out  on  the  same  train,  in  which  we  first  crossed  the  Plains. 
I  took  the  trouble  to  go  forward  and  sit  awhile  in  one  of 
their  cars  and  learn  of  their  thoughts  and  expectations. 
They  were  a  miserable  looking  set,  and  it  was  with  diffi- 
culty that  I  could  remain  among  them,  owing  to  the  vile, 
overpowering,  all-pervading  odor  that  exuded  from  them. 
I  found  them  gay,  happy  and  even  boisterous  at  times,  and 
they  appeared  perfectly  at  ease  in  the  prospect  of  settling  upon 
their  western  farms,  with  their  grassy  meadows  and  rich,  dark 
soil,  and  which,  they  said,  they  had  purchased  before  coming 
out. 

At  last,  we  arrived  at  the  long-looked-for  station,  consist- 
ing of  a  few  log  cabins,  squatted  upon  the  hot  and  bare  plain, 
with  no  sign  of  a  tree  or  even  shrub.  The  earth  was  cracked 
open  by  the  intense  heat,  and  the  dry,  burnt  grass  grew  in 
stunted  bunches  over  a  scene  of  such  scorched  aridness.  The 
arrival  at  their  destination  seemed  to  take  them  somewhat 
by  surprise,  and  it  was  with  looks,  amounting  almost  to  in- 
credulity, that  they  prepared  to  leave  the  train.  As  we  steam- 
ed away,  I  looked  back  and  there  saw  a  crowd  of  wretched 
human  beings,  huddled  together  on  the  little  platform,  with 
dejected  countenances  and  inquiring  eyes,  as  if  they  knew  not 
what  to  do  next.  They  were  altogether  the  most  crest-fallen 
looking  company  I  ever  beheld.  I  did  pity  them  from  my 
heart,  for  the  great  mistake  of  a  lifetime  was  just  dawning  up- 
on their  benighted  minds.  They  now  saw  how  utterly  mis- 
taken had  been  their  conceptions,  and  how  hopelessly  frus- 
trated were  all  their  plans,  and  how  cruelly  they  had  been  de- 
ceived in  regard  to  this  **  farming  land  of  the  west."  One 
look  at  such  a  desert  is  sufficient  to  convince  any  honest  man 
that  it  is  absolutely  unfit  for  even  the  most  limited  purpose 
of  agriculture. 


THE  BUFFALO  COUNTRY.  131 

We  Stopped  at  a  place  called  Wallace's  for  breakfast  and 
here,  for  the  first  time,  noticed  the  superiority  of  the  stations 
on  this  road  over  those  upon  the  Union  Pacific.  Every  thing 
was  neat  and  clean,  and  there  were  frame  houses  with  paint- 
ed porches  ;  and  even  the  waiters  had  a  more  civilized  style 
about  them,  donning  a  little  flourish  of  the  east.  The  scenery 
was  of  course,  just  the  same  as  that  of  the  first  mile  out  of 
Denver — nothing  visible  except  a  dreary  waste  of  level  plain. 

About  noon  we  entered  the  buffalo  country  and  we  were 
all  in  high  spirits,  with  a  prospect  of  catching  a  sight  of  them. 
We  had  not  long  to  wait,  for  off  to  one  side  of  the  track,  a  herd 
of  these  animals  was  pointed  out,  which  was  about  a  mile  away 
and  looked  exactly  like  cattle,  but  soon  we  passed  a  large 
number  much  nearer  the  train  and  obtained  a  fine  view  of 
them. 

We  dined  at  Ellis.  In  the  afternoon  we  read  and  slept 
alternately,  to  while  away  the  tedium  of  the  dragging  hours, 
but  toward  evening  we  arose,  washed  and  prepared  to  enjoy 
the  cool  breeze  that  fanned  us  through  the  open  window. 
Before  an  hour  had  passed,  however,  the  wind  changed,  both 
in  direction  and  temperature.  The  air  blew  across  the  train 
from  the  opposite  quarter,  and  seemed  as  if  it  came  directly 
from  the  mouth  of  some  huge  furnace.  It  was  so  hot  and  dry, 
that  we  could  scarcely  breathe.  On  looking  out  of  the  window 
to  find,  if  possible,  what  was  the  cause  of  such  a  strange  phe- 
nomenon, we  discovered  that  the  Plains  were  on  fire  for  many 
miles  around  the  horizon.  The  smoke  hung  in  dense  black 
volumes  above  the  flames  that  darted  up  like  tongues  of  fire,  to 
the  distance  of  not  less  than  thirty  feet,  and  the  Plains  were 
covered,  for  some  distance  in  front  of  the  conflagration,  with 
animals,  escaping  from  the  awful  fate  that  threatened  them. 
The  wind  now  became  hot,  so  much  so,  that  we  were  obliged 
Q 


132  A   RACE   BETWEEN   THE   CARS   AND   FLAMES. 

to  close  the  window.  It  took  our  breath  when  we  attempted 
to  breathe  it.  The  scene  was  one  of  grandeur,  but  it  was  most 
too  near  for  us  to  appreciate  its  beauty  as  we,  perhaps,  might 
have  done,  had  it  been  fifty,  instead  of  ten  miles  away.  We 
had  been  gradually  accelerating  our  speed,  from  the  time  we 
had  noticed  the  fire,  and  now,  we  were  flying  along  at  the  rate 
of  forty  miles  an  hour.  It  became  intensely  interesting  !  We 
waited  in  painful  anxiety  to  witness  the  result  of  such  a  race. 
In  about  an  hour,  however,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  noting 
that  we  were  gradually  more  and  more  out  of  the  circle  of 
flame,  that  had,  at  first,  apparently  surrounded  us.  To  think 
of  a  race  between  an  engine  at  full  speed,  and  the  flames 
sweeping  along  over  the  level  surface  of  the  prairie  at  a 
tremendous  velocity.  It  was  a  narrow  escape,  and  every 
one,  to  judge  by  their  relieved  expression  and  subdued  con- 
versation, had  realized  in  what  imminent  danger  we  had 
been  placed. 

No  sooner  was  our  excitement  over,  than  another  took 
its  place.  At  one  of  the  stations,  we  had  just  received  an  ad- 
dition to  our  car's  party,  in  the  persons  of  two  gentlemen,  fit- 
ted out  in  complete  western  *'  rig,"  but  an  hour  before,  returned 
from  a  buffalo  hunt.  They  had  begun  to  tell  of  the  sport  they 
had,  of  how  many  animals  they  had  shot,  and  what  countless 
herds  they  had  seen,  when  we  all  heard  a  prolonged  and  discon- 
tinued whistle  from  our  engine  ;  we  knew  at  once  that  some- 
thing was  wrong,  either  a  buffalo  on  the  track  or  a  bridge  was 
down.  The  train  was  suddenly  stopped,  and  we  all  leaned 
far  out  of  the  windows,  in  the  hope  of  discovering  the  cause  of 
this  unusual  commotion.  Just  then,  some  one  burst  open  the 
door  and  shouted  hurriedly,  ''There  is  a  big  buffalo  on  the 
track".  All  the  male  portion  of  the  passengers  darted  out  at 
full  speed.     Several  of  us  had  rifles,  others  revolvers,  while 


A   BUFFALO   TRAPPED.  1 33 

others  again  carried  no  weapon  of  any  description.     Ours  was 
the  last  car  on  the  train,  so  that  when  we  reached  the  ground, 
we  could  see  absolutely  nothing  on  account  the  dense  crowd 
that  lined  the  track,  beside  the  cars.     It  seemed  as  if  every 
body  on  the  train  had  gotten  off  upon  one  side.     I  rushed  for- 
ward and  soon  was  in  the  foremost  party.  About  twenty  yards 
up  the  track  I  saw  an  immense  buffalo  plunging  about,  in  his 
vain  endeavors  to  extricate  himself  from  between  the  timbers 
of  a  tressel-work  bridge,  that  spanned  a  little  gulley  on  the 
Plains.     His  hind  feet  rested  upon  the  ground,  while  his  head, 
shoulders  and  fore  limbs  protruded  above  the  track.     He  was 
caught  as  prettily,  as  if  by  a  steel  trap.     Two  men  on  horse- 
back were  standing  a  few  paces  to  one  side.     It  seemed,  that 
they  had  been  out  hunting  and  had  driven  this  animal,  together 
with  the  rest  of  the  herd,  across  the  track,  but  this  fellow,  by 
some  mischance,  missing  his  footing,  had  fallen  through  the 
open  timbers  of  the  bridge.    Seeing  the  train  rapidly  approach- 
ing, they  knew  that  it  would  be  but  a  waste  of  ammunition  to 
kill  him,  as  perhaps  in  another  moment  he  would  be  crushed 
beneath  iron  wheels.     But  the  engineer,  very  fortunately,  per- 
ceived the  state  of  affairs  and  was  able  to  stop  before  reach- 
ing him.     We  hurried  on  to  within  a  few  feet  of  him.     What 
fearful  rage  !    His  eyes  glared  luridly  upon  us,  as  we  advanced, 
and  in  frantically  attempting  to  rend  the  thick  timbers  with 
his  horns,  he  reared  and  plunged,    each  time  only  wedging 
his  sholders  the  more  firmly  between  the  ties.     At  one  mo- 
ment, he  would  strike  out  with  his  fore  foot,  with  such  tre- 
mendous power,  that  we  could  feel  the  iron  track  tremble  ;  at 
the  next  instant,  he  would  struggle  as  if  tortured  by  the  most 
titanic  agonies.     Once  he  raised  himself  on  his  hind  legs,  and 
made  a  desperate  spring.    It  seemed  as  if  he  had  at  last  suc- 
ceeded in  freeing  himself,  and  you  may  imagine  what  a  stam- 


134  AMUSING   SCENES. 

pede  there  was  among  the  spectators.  We  scattered  and  ran 
at  full  speed  for  a  short  distance,  but  finding  that  he  had  sunk 
back  again,  we  approached  boldly.  His  strength,  enormous 
as  it  was,  could  not  hold  out  against  such  fearful  odds  ;  so  at 
last  he  stood  quite  still,  wildly,  almost  humanly  gazing  into 
our  faces  with  a  supplicating  look,  as  if  asking  for  mercy, 
finding  that  resistance  was  now  useless.  He  was  terrible  in 
his  fury,  but  was  more  terrible  in  his  conquered  wrath.  This 
was  a  noble  brute  ;  one  could  not  but  admire  the  way  in 
which  he  had  fought  for  life.  But  there  was  no  quarter.  The 
instant  he  became  quiet  half  a  dozen  rifle  barrels  gleamed  in 
the  sunlight,  and  half  a  dozen  bullets  went  crashing  into  his 
brain.  With  a  loud  bellow,  he  threw  up  his  head  and  fell 
backward  through  the  tressel-work.  After  waiting  a  moment, 
one  of  the  passengers,  doubting  whether  the  animal  had  been 
killed  outright,  thought  he  would  use  his  head  as  a  target  for 
one  more  shot,  so  going  up,  he  placed  the  muzzle  of  the  rifle 
against  his  head,  and  fired  again.  But  as  there  was  no  more 
motion,  we  concluded  that  he  was  dead.  I  sprang  down  and 
grasping  the  horns,  lifted  the  head  with  much  difficulty,  into 
a  position  in  which  I  could  cut  some  of  the  long,  silky  hair 
from  his  forehead.  This  was  a  signal  for  operations.  Dozens 
of  men  followed  and  were  eager  to  obtain  a  similar  memento 
of  the  incident. 

We  had  hardly  finished  our  clipping,  when  ''All  aboard" 
was  sounded,  and  away  we  went  to  seek  our  seats  in  the  cars 
and  talk  over  the  excitement.  A  number  of  ladies  came  out 
and  stood  upon  the  platform  to  catch  a  sight  of  the  buffalo  as 
we  passed  over  the  bridge.  Some  screamed,  others  laughed, 
and  others  ran  away,  as  if  in  a  fright.  We  had  some  very 
amusing  scenes  on  account  of  the  poor  old  beast. 

The  remainder  of  the  day  passed  without  any  more  inter- 


KANSAS   CITY. 


135 


esting  occurences  than  the  shooting  at  buffaloes  from  the  car 
windows.  One  hundred  needle-guns  are  always  carried  in 
every  mail  car,  to  protect  it  from  any  attacks  by  the  Arrapa- 
hoe  Indians,  who  are  now  sweeping  the  plains  with  hostile 
intentions,  so  that  we  had  all  the  fire-arms  we  could  use. 

At  nine  o'clock  we  retired,  to  sleep  soundly  until  six  the 
next  morning,  at  which  time  we  reached  Kansas  city.  We 
were  in  doubt  concerning  this  place,  on  account  of  having 
been  disappointed  in  Omaha,  the  terminus  of  the  Union 
Pacific  road.  But  while  riding  in  the  bus  from  the  depot  to 
the  hotel,  we  obtained  a  very  good  idea  of  the  town,  it  having 
been  necessary  to  drive  almost  all  the  other  passengers  to 
their  respective  destinations  before  our  turn  came.  We  pass- 
ed through  nearly  every  principal  street,  and  saw  most  of  the 
public  buildings  and  leading  business  houses.  We  stopped  at 
the  Lindel  Hotel,  which  is  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  busi- 
ness section,  but  of  course,  it  being  Sunday,  the  town  was  not 
very  lively.  As  we  had  been  traveling  for  almost  two  days 
in  succession,  and  feeling  very  much  worn  out,,  we  determined 
to  maintain  entire  seclusion  for  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

I  busied  myself  in  writing  some  letters  and  in  composing 
my  journal,  while  Stapler  dozed  away  the  afternoon  in  happy 
oblivion. 

We  were  interrupted  during  supper  by  a  long,  loud  call 
'hy  the  porter,  for  passengers  for  the  North  Missouri  Rail  Road. 
This  precluded  the  possibility  of  finishing  the  meal,  so,  with 
a  pretty  bad  grace,  we  followed  him  to  the  bus  in  waiting. 
In  another  hour  we  were  rapidly  whirling  along  toward  St. 
Louis. 

We  went  to  bed  soon  after  entering  the  train,  and  awaken- 
ed upon  the  following  morning,  just  in  time  to  dress,  rather 


136  EN   ROUTE   FOR   THE    MAMMOTH   CAVE. 

hastily,  before  reaching  the  city.  We  drove  to  the  Laclede 
House,  and  after  refreshing  ourselves  by  an  application  of  cold 
water,  we  descended  to  breakfast.  This  pleasant  necessity  be- 
ing attended  to,  with  due  consideration  for  our  individual  feel- 
ings, we  repaired  to  the  billiard  room,  and  passed  an  hour 
very  agreeably  "among  the  ivories.".  Wishing  to  ascertain 
the  particulars  concerning  the  arrival  of  several  trains  in  the 
east,  we  visited  the  Ticket  Office  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
Rail  Road,  then  the  Post  Office  ;  and  amused  ourselves,  after- 
ward, by  watching  the  procession  of  the  Grand  Mammoth 
Circus  as  it  passed  along  the  street  accompanied  by  martial 
music  and  a  howling  crowd  of  urchins.  Returning  to  our 
rooms,  we  passed  the  -time  as  best  we  could  till  dinner  was  an- 
nounced. After  sitting  at  table  from  one-thirty  to  four  P.  M., 
we  concluded  to  see  the  city,  so  went  out  and  strolled  leisurely 
from  one  street  to  another,  until  darkness  warned  us  of  the 
lateness  of  the  hour.  After  taking  a  hasty  supper  we  entered 
the  bus  which  was  to  convey  us  to  the  depot.  We  embarked 
at  five  minutes  past  ten  o'clock,  and  in  another  half  hour  were 
sleeping  soundly,  on  our  way  to  Louisville.  We  steamed  in- 
to this  beautiful  city,  early  upon  the  following  morning,  and 
had  just  time  to  cross  to  the  depot  of  the  Louisville  and 
Nashville  Rail  Road,  to  catch  the  train  for  Cave  City,  en 
rotite  for  Mammoth  Cave  in  Kentucky.  It  occupied  three 
hours  and  a  half  to  accomplish  the  eighty-five  miles  between 
Louisville  and  Cave  City,  but  they  seemed  more  like  six  and 
a  half  than  three  and  a  half,  for  the  road  was  very  dusty,  the 
cars  uncomfortable,  the  day  hot  and  our  anticipations  excited 
impatience.  However,  at  twelve  o'clock,  we  were  sitting  on 
top  of  the  immense  Concord  stage  coach,  ready  for  the  ride  of 
nine  miles  that  awaited  us. 

The  sun  poured  down  his  intensely  hot  rays    upon  our 


A   BEAUTIFUL   PROSPECT.  1 37 

unsheltered  heads,  nevertheless  we  agreed  that  an  outside  seat, 
however  warm,  was  altogether  preferable  to  the  cramped  and 
almost  suffocating  interior  of  the  stage.  One  of  our  compan- 
ions purchased  an  umbrella,  at  the  little  store  just  opposite 
the  depot  and  rode  with  it  over  him  all  the  way  to  the  cave. 
We  had  the  pleasure  of  beholding  his  comfort  while  scorching 
just  outside  the  rim. 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  very  beautiful ; 
richly  wooded  hills  rose  on  all  sides,  cleft  by  picturesque 
little  ravines  and  threaded  by  silver  rivulets.  The  surround- 
ings were  those  of  real  backwoods  life.  Every  now  and  then 
we  passed  a  small  and  dilapidated  log  cabin  which  had  been 
the  homestead  of  several  generations  of  the  miserable  looking 
inhabitants.  The  father  was  usually  out  in  his  little  corn  field 
or  potato  patch,  and  the  mother  standing  with  her  arms  "a 
kimbo"  in  the  middle  of  the  doorway,  while  the  half-clad 
children,  clutched  her  dress,  or  ran  down  to  the  road  to  yell 
with  boyish  delight,  at  the  horses.  Such  is  the  picture  that 
continually  presented  itself  as  we  neared  our  destination  ;  but 
all  was  forgotten  when  we  drew  up  before  the  platform  of  the 
Mammoth  Cave  Hotel.  It  is  built  of  wood  exclusively,  and  ex- 
cept in  one  place,  has  only  a  single  story,  but  extends  in  a  right- 
angular  form  over  quite  an  area  of  ground.  There  is  thus  en- 
closed, by  the  hotel  proper,  the  offices  and  the  billiard  house, 
a  complete  quadrangular  space  which  is  laid  out  in  walks  and 
lawns,  and  covered  with  beautiful  trees,  which  cast  pleasant 
shades  upon  the  green  carpet  beneath. 

When  we  arrived,  ladies  dressed  in  airy,  summer  costume, 
together  with  their  escorts,  were  playing  croquet  on  the  lawn 
before  the  porch  ;  and  several  small  children  were  holding  a 
juvenile  pic-nic  in  the  large  chair-swing  that  was  suspended 


138  DESCENDING   INTO  THE   CAVE. 

between  two   trees.     Everything  looked   inviting,    homelike 
and  gay. 

We  obtained  a  good  room  on  the  second  floor  ;  and,  after 
arranging  our  toilet,  we  descended  to  dinner.  We  were  agree- 
ably susprised  to  find  a  hall  of  such  dimensions.  This  seemed 
like  civilization  and  comfort  to  eyes  like  ours,  which  had  been 
for  so  long  accustomed  to  frontier  cabins,  and  poor  accommo- 
dations ;  so  we  did  full  justice  to  the  excellent  meal  spread 
before  us. 

After  dinner,  although  it  was  intensely  hot,  we  concluded 
we  would  walk  down  to  the  Mammoth  Cave,  and  satisfy  our 
idle  curiosity.  Traversing  the  yard  at  one  side  of  the  build- 
ing, and  crossing  an  old  fashioned  stile  that  marked  the  en- 
trance to  the  woods,  we  began  an  abrupt  descent.  A  long 
winding  and  rocky  path  led  us  to  the  top  of  a  steep  flight 
of  steps,  on  reaching  the  foot  of  which,  we  walked  along  for  a 
hundred  feet  upon  comparatively  level  ground,  but  would  have 
gone  right  past  the  mouth  of  the  Cave,  had  not  a  gentleman 
with  us,  who  had  been  down  before,  pointed  it  out  to  us. 
The  entrance  is  situated  upon  the  right  of  the  path  as  you 
descend  and  opens  in  a  direction  parallel  with  it.  It  is  one 
hundred  and  ninety  feet  above  Green  River  and  is  about 
twenty-five  feet  in  hight  by  thirty  in  width.  Over  the  edge 
of  the  sharp  ledge  of  rock  that  hangs  above  the  entrance,  flows 
a  diminutive  rivulet,  forming  at  once  a  beautiful,  natural  cas- 
cade, and  a  misty  spray-veil  to  conceal  the  wonders  within. 

The  entrance  to  Mammoth  Cave,  at  an  early  period  of  its 
history,  was  situated  about  a  half  a  mile  from  its  present 
location,  constituting  what  is  now  called  the  mouth  of  Dick- 
son's Cave.  This  cave  terminates  within  a  few  feet  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Mammoth  Cave  ;  but  there  is,  at  present,    no 


REMARKABLE  TEMPERATURE. 


139 


communication  between  the  two.  The  voice  of  a  person  at  the 
end  of  the  former  can  be  distinctly  heard  at  the  mouth  of 
the  latter.  Descending  the  steep  path  leading  into  the 
Cave,  we  passed  from  an  exterior  temperature  of  about  one 
hundred  dcgTQQs,  to  an  interior  one  of  only  tJiirty-nine.  Stand- 
ing upon  the  edge  of  this  descent,  with  the  feet  just  inside 
the  thermometric  line  of  demarkation  between  the  subterra- 
nean and  outside  world,  a  marked  sensation  of  cold  is  notice- 
able. It  is,  therefore,  not  advisable  to  enter  the  Cave  imme- 
diately upon  coming  to  the  mouth — the  change  of  temperature 
would  be  too  extreme.  It  is  almost  like  stepping  from  torrid 
summer  with  its  sun-strokes,  into  an  arctic  winter  with  its 
frost-bites. 

How  refreshing,  upon  such  a  day,  to  sit  on  the  rocks  just 
inside  the  Cave  and  feel  the  cold  pure  air  rushing  outward. 
It  was  true  luxury. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

White  s    Cave. — Co7itrast  of  experience  within   and  without. 
Entering  the  Mammoth  Cave.     The  Wonders  withift. 

We  lingered  long,  enjoying  the  breeze  and  the  woods,  un- 
til we  were  reminded  that  it  only  lacked  an  hour  and  a  half 
until  tea  time. 

We  were  at  a  loss  for  a  pleasant  way  in  which  to  spend 
this  remaining  time  ;  however,  one  of  the  guides  suggested  a 
visit  to  White's  Cave,  which  is  quite  a  small  but  beautiful 
cavern,  situated  within  ten  minutes'  walk  of  the  hotel.  His 
proposition  met  with  a  ready  acquiescence  and  we  repaired 
to  the  office  and  procured  a  couple  of  suits  a  la  cave  costume. 
We  now  followed  the  wagon  road  for  some  distance,  then 
struck  off  into  the  woods  and  forced  our  way  through  the 
tangled  underbush  lining  the  narrow  foot-path,  until  we  reach- 
ed a  little  rocky  glen,  where  Lee,  the  guide,  put  down  his 
lamp  and  remarked  that  it  would  be  better  to  put  on  our  suits 
before  entering.  Well,  said  I,  ''  I  guess  we  had  better  wait  un- 
til we  reach  the  cave  ".  ''  Here  we  are  right  at  the  mouth  ",  he 
replied.  We  both  looked  round  us  in  incredulity.  At  last, 
but  not  until  after  carefully  scrutinizing  our  surroundings,  did 
we  discover  a  little  hole  not  three  feet  high  entering  the  hill, 
under  a  large  rock  that  lay  at  one  edge  of  the  glen.  It  did 
not  look  as  if  it  was  half  large  enough  to  admit  a  man,  but 
knowing  that  others  had  gone  before,  we  prepared  ourselves  for 
the  trial.  On  attempting  the  entrance,  we  found  it  much  eas- 
ier than  we  had  anticipated,  and  got  along  very  comfortably. 


A   BEAUTIFUL    PILLAR.  I4I 

Just  inside,  the  mouth  of  the  cave  opened  both  sidewise 
and  upward,  until  it  became  large  enough  for  us  to  walk  up- 
right. We  clambered  along  over  and  among  the  rough  rocks, 
holding  our  lamps  in  our  hands  and  watching  the  ceiling  very 
closely  lest  we  should  strike  our  heads  against  any  jutting  knob 
or  stalactite.  It,  together  with  the  walls,  was  very  damp  and 
in  some  places  beaded  with  glistening  drops  of  water.  On 
every  side,  beautiful  stalactites  hung  from  the  rocks  above,  and 
under  each  one,  rose  a  stalagmite.  These  subterranean  pen- 
dants are  formed  exclusively  by  the  solvent  action  of  water 
holding  carbonic  acid  in  solution.  This  fact  is  evident  upon 
examination,  there  being  a  crevice  in  the  top  or  back  of  every 
one,  through  which  water  does,  or  did  flow  drop  by  drop.  In 
the  latter  case  the  orifice  at  the  lower  extremity  is  closed  by 
incrustations  of  carbonate  of  lime. 

Passing  a  solid  wall,  formed  by  the  union  of  stalactite 
with  stalagmite,  we  came  to  a  beautiful  pillar  formed  in  pre- 
cisely the  same  manner.  It  is  wonderful  how  perfectly  sym- 
metrical these  stalactites  are,  and  it  is  scarcely  possible  to 
grasp  the  conception  of  the  lapse  of  time  since  their  inception, 
when  we  realize  while  gazing  upon  such  a  column,  perhaps 
ten  feet  in  hight,  that  it  takes  five  thousand  years  to  form  a 
layer  as  thick  as  a  wafer.  Countless  centuries  and  ages  must 
have  rolled  by,  before  they  could  possibly  have  attained  half 
of  their  present  dimensions.  We  saw  one  huge  stalactite 
that  extended  from  the  ceiling  to  the  floor  of  the  cave,  a  dis- 
tance of  almost  seventeen  feet.  In  this  instance  there  was  no 
stalagmite  formed. 

But  to  explain  these  terms  "stalactite"  and  "stalag- 
mite". When  water,  holding  bicarbonate  of  lime  in  solution, 
drops  slowly  from  the  ceiling,  by  which  it  is  exposed  to  the 
air,  sufficiently  long  to  allow  of  the  escape  of  one  equivalent 


142  THE   GRAND   ROTUNDA. 

of  carbonic  acid  gas,  the  lime  is  deposited  in  the  form  of  proto- 
carbonate  of  lime.  If  this  deposit  occurs  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  accumulation  takes  place  from  above,  downward,  in  the 
form  of  an  icicle,  it  constitutes  what  is  termed  a  **  stalactite  "  ; 
but  if  it  accumulates  from  below,  upward,  it  is  called  a  **  sta- 
lagmite ".  Frequently,  as  in  the  instances  just  cited,  stalac- 
tiles  and  stalagmites  meet  in  the  center  and  become  cemented, 
by  which  a  column  of  support  is  formed. 

Passing  the  before  mentioned  pillar,  we  entered  the  Grand 
Rotunda.  This  hall  is  about  half  way  between  the  end  and 
entrance  of  the  Cave,  and  is  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet 
high,  by  fifty  wide.  On  the  walls  we  noticed  exquisite  crys- 
tals of  gypsum  in  all  shapes  ;  from  a  hexagonal  cube  to  a 
many  petaled  rose.  The  most  remarkable  characteristic  of 
these  lime-flowers  is,  that  they  are  invariably  devoid  of  sepals 
and  stamens,  but  have  the  petals  and  sometimes  the  recepta- 
cle in  perfect  formation,  while  in  the  center  of  the  flower,  the 
petals  have  converged,  substituting  a  round  head  for  the  fila- 
ments and  anther  of  the  stamens.  Still  these  peculiarities  are 
not  so  noticeable  at  the  distance  of  a  few  feet,  so  that  standing 
in  the  middle  of  the  Rotunda,  we  thought  ourselves  walled  in 
by  beautiful,  snow-white  clusters  of  flowers.  The  ceiling 
flashed  and  sparkled  in  the  magnesium  light,  and  the  clear 
pure  waters  of  a  little  basin  at  very  our  feet,  reflected  our  every 
movement  from  its  calm  and  mirror-like  surface.  The  guide 
informed  us  that  this  sheet  of  water  was  called  Purity  Spring, 
and,  indeed,  it  did  not  belie  its  name,  for  purer,  colder  water 
we  never  tasted.  It  always  maintains  the  same  temperature 
winter  and  summer. 

Leaving  this  beautiful  spot,  we  descended  the  steep  side 
of  a  rocky  cavern  and  stood  beside  a  deep  pit.  The  guide 
threw  some  lighted  paper  down  and  illuminated  its  damp  walls 


THE   ROCKY   CHAMBER.  I43 

for  over  twenty-five  feet  in  depth.  Not  caring  particularly  to 
explore  this  portion  of  the  cave  any  further,  we  passed  on 
and  at  last  stood  at  the  end  of  a  narrow,  stony  pass  between 
the  perpendicular  sides  of  a  tortuous  avenue  that  led  to  the 
Rotunda.  Here  we  sat  down  and  rested  ourselves  for  a  few 
minutes  and  then  began  the  return. 

We  passed  over  the  same  ground  until  we  left  what  is 
called  The  Rocky  Chamber,  when  we  bore  off  to  the  right  in- 
to another  avenue  leading  to  the  entrance  by  a  circuitous 
route.  We  saw  nothing  more  of  special  interest  in  White's 
Cave — for  it  was  half  a  mile  in  length.  We  had  not,  indeed, 
anticipated  seeing  so  much  that  was  sublime.  It  only  served 
to  give  us  an  idea  of  what  we  might  expect  on  the  morrow. 

On  consulting  our  watches  on  reaching  the  entrance,  we 
found  that  we  had  been  under  ground  for  two  hours.  When 
we  had  entered,  the  sun  had  been  shining  brightly  and  all  was 
animated,  busy  life  ;  but  now,  we  issued  into  the  darkness  of 
night.     Every  thing  was  silent,  except  the  crickets  and  frogs. 

It  is  a  strange  feeling  to  see  such  a  complete  change 
effected,  as  it  were,  in  an  instant.  We  looked  about  us  as  if 
just  awakening  from  a  long  sleep,  and  our  feelings  were  a  type 
of  those  of  poor  Rip  VanWinkle,  when  he  awoke  alone,  des- 
olate and  forgotten.  But  knowing  that  a  good  supper  await- 
ed us  at  the  hotel,  we  began  the  laborious  ascent  of  the  hill 
rising  over  the  cave.  It  was  fearfully  warm.  The  thermom- 
eter at  the  hotel  stood  at  ninety-three  degrees,  at  half  past 
seven  o'clock  in  the  evening. 

The  return  journey  seemed,  of  course,  about  twice  as  long 
as  the  outward  one  had  done.  But  at  last  we  stood  beneath 
the  broad-porch  roof  of  the  hotel,  fully  satisfied  with  our  ex- 
perience at  White's  Cave. 


144  THE  evening's  hop. 

In  the  evening  we  attended  a  hop  given  in  the  large  ball- 
room on  the  second  floor,  and  which  was  very  well  gotten  up. 
At  a  late  hour,  we  retired  pretty  thoroughly  exhausted  by  the 
labors  of  the  day  ;  but  on  the  following  morning  felt  sufficient- 
ly refreshed  by  our  rest,  to  engage  in  our  project  of  visiting 
the  Mammoth  Cave,  with  a  great  deal  of  pleasure. 

It  is  the  custom  to  send  into  the  Cave  with  a  party,  no 
matter  how  large,  a  guide  or  guides  instead  of  their  being 
employed  privately  by  single  individuals  or  families.  This  is, 
by  far,  the  best  arrangement,  for  it  makes  the  trip  more  pleas- 
ant, sociable  and  jolly,  than  would  be  the  case,  were  every 
two  or  three  visitors  to  have  a  special  guide  for  themselves, 
exclusively. 

At  the  sound  of  the  first  bell,  which  rang  to  warn  the 
guests  that  '*cave  hour"  had  arrived,  we  hurriedly  got  together 
our  suits  and  walked  to  the  end  of  the  long  porch  which  ex- 
tends around  the  hotel  on  the  inner  side,  and  there  found  quite 
a  number  of  persons,  all  dressed  in  cave  attire  and  awaiting 
the  guide  who  was  preparing  the  lamps  in  a  shed  at  the  side 
of  the  building.  The  female  portion  of  the  company,  were 
dressed  in  regular  bloomer  costumes,  but  arranged  in  various 
styles  to  suit  age,  disposition  and  taste.  Every  one  wore 
some  bright  colors,  that  not  only  gave  a  gayer  and  livelier 
tone  to  the  excursion,  but  added  a  picturesqueness  to  scenes 
within  the  cave. 

We  learned  upon  our  arrival  in  their  midst,  that  the 
"short  route"  party  numbering  over  fifty,  had  just  started, 
and  that  we  were  to  take  up  the  line  of  march  in  a  moment. 

By  way  of  parenthesis,  let  me  explain  the  terms  **  long" 
and*'  short  "  routes. 

.  On  the  *'  long  route  "  the  guide  conducts  the  visitors  from 


ENTERING  THE   MAMMOTH  CAVE.  I45 

the  entrance  to  what  is  called  the  Giant's  Coffin,  about  a  half 
a  mile  from  the  mouth  of  the  Cave,  and  travels  for  nine  miles 
through  various  avenues  to  the  end  of  the  Cave  and  back 
again. 

On  the  "short  route"  he  leaves  the  main  gallery  at  the 
same  point,  visits  a  number  of  places  of  special  interest,  such 
as  Mammoth  Dome,  Gorin's  Dome,  the  Star  Chamber  &c.,  the 
whole  trip  only  occupying  from  seven  to  eight  hours,  whereas 
in  accomplishing  the  "long  route",  one  is  under  ground  from 
nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  until  ten  o'clock  at  night. 

We  had  arranged  to  take  the  latter  ;  so  when  Frank  came 
along  and  told  us  he  would  meet  us  at  the  mouth  of  the  cave, 
we  sallied  forth,  with  the  brightest  anticipations  of  the  sub- 
terranean wonders  we  were  soon  to  behold.  We  formed  the 
jolliest,  most  rollicking  party  you  ever  saw.  There  was  no 
constraint  nor  reserve  among  us.  Everybody  wanted  to  have 
a  good  time  and  determined  to  have  it,  so  without  the  form- 
ality of  introductions,  gentlemen  escorted  ladies  whom 
they  had  never  seen  before,  and  the  ladies  in  turn  smiled  up- 
on the  gentlemen,  nothwithstanding  their  over-alls  and 
cotton  blouses. 

We  had  expected  about  thirty  in  our  party,  but  by  some 
mistake,  only  fifteen  assembled  on  the  porch  at  the  appointed 
hour.  However,  Frank  told  us  that  it  was  better  as  it  was, 
for,  with  fewer  numbers,  he  could  exhibit  more  in  detail. 
With  this  remark  we  were  quite  contented.  Besides  this  con- 
sideration there  was  another  that  induced  us  to  believe  our- 
selves fortunate,  rather  than  otherwise  in  the  loss  of  half 
our  number.  We  carried  lunch  for  thirty,  and  there  were 
only  fifteen  to  eat  it. 

We  were  delayed  for  some  time  at  the  mouth  of  the  cave 


146  THE    ATMOSPHERE    OF   THE   CAVE. 

to  allow  the  other  party  to  get  beyond  our  reach,  for  had  we 
entered  at  the  same  time,  there  would  have  been  no  end  to 
the  delays  and  annoyances. 

At  last,  the  long  looked  for  moment  arrived,  when  Frank, 
having  decended  to  a  ledge  just  inside  the  cave  to  light  the 
lamps,  gave  us  the  signal  to  enter.  In  Indian  file  we  picked 
our  way  down  the  rough,  winding  flight  of  stone  steps,  until 
we  reached  the  floor  of  the  Cave.  The  atmosphere  was  de- 
lightfully cool  and  pure,  such  a  refreshing  change  from  that 
without.  The  proportions  of  oxygen  and  nitrogen  bear  the 
same  relation  to  each  other  in  the  Mammoth  Cave  that  they 
do  in  the  external  air.  The  proportion  of  carbonic  acid  gas 
is  less  than  that  in  the  atmosphere  of  the  surrounding  country, 
upon  an  average  of  many  observations.  Not  a  trace  of  am- 
monia has  been  detected  in  those  parts  of  the  Cave  not  com- 
monly visited.  Of  a  necessity,  it  is  unavoidable  where  so 
many  human  beings  constantly  respire.  The  vapor  of  water  is 
found  in  varying  quantities  in  different  localities,  but  greater 
near  the  streams  ;  so  that  from  these  statements,  you  will  ob- 
serve that  the  atmosphere  of  the  Cave  is  freer  from  those  sub- 
stances which  are  calculated  to  exert  a  depressing  and  septic 
influence  upon  the  animal  organization  than  that  of  any  other 
locality  of  the  globe.  This  great  difference  is  noticed  by 
every  one  on  leaving  the  Cave,  after  having  remained  in  it  for 
a  number  of  hours.  In  such  instances  the  impurity  of  the  ex- 
ternal air  is  almost  insufferably  offensive  to  the  sense  of  smell, 
and  the  romance  of  a  pure  country  air  is  forever  dissipated. 

The  temperature  of  the  Mammoth  Cave  is  uniformly  fifty- 
nine  degrees  winter  and  summer,  which  together  with  the  re- 
markable purity  of  its  atmosphere,  will  account  for  the  fact 
that  indviduals  are  enabled  to  undergo  such  an  unusual  amount 


SOLID  WALLS  OF  ROCK.  I47 

of  physical  exertion  while  within  it.  It  is  not  an  uncom- 
mon occurence  for  a  person  in  delicate  health  to  accomplish  a 
journey  of  twenty  miles  in  the  Cave,  without  suffering  from 
fatigue,  who  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  walk  three  miles 
upon  the  surface  of  the  earth.  We  had  just  such  an  instance  in 
the  person  of  a  young  lady  named  Miss  Alice  May,  who  was 
a  member  of  our  party.  She  had  but  a  month  before,  recov- 
ered from  a  severe  and  exhausting  illness,  and  had  come  to 
Mammoth  Cave  in  the  hope  of  entirely  restoring  her  shattered 
health  by  means  of  pure  air  and  physical  exercise.  This 
young  invalid  walked  over  twenty  miles  that  day  and  danced 
till  midnight  afterward.  For  my  part  as  testimony  of  the  in- 
vigorating effect  which  is  produced  by  the  air  of  the  Cave,  I 
can  honestly  say  that  I  should  prefer  to  walk  ten  miles  in 
such  an  atmosphere,  than  five  above  ground,  not  even  making 
any  allowance  for  the  roughness  of  the  one  and  smoothness 
of  the  other.     But  to  return. 

Upon  reaching  the  aforesaid  ledge  to  which  Frank  had 
preceded  us,  we  took  up  our  position  to  enter  the  Cave  proper, 
through  a  low  doorway  which  is  kept  locked  in  order  to  pre- 
vent the  destruction  or  defacement  of  the  interior. 

Every  one,  in  looking  in  toward  this  door,  experienced 
for  the  first  time  a  feeling  of  awe,  inspired  by  the  grandeur 
of  such  a  terrible  convulsion  of  nature.  We  could  see  nothing 
but  an  intensely  black  hole  or  low  gallery,  that  of  itself  form- 
ed the  end  and  background  of  the  view.  On  all  but  one  side 
we  were  shut  in  by  the  solid  walls  of  rock  that  glistened  in  the 
light  of  our  lamps,  which,  while  moving  onward,  all  held  high 
up  before  our  faces,  in  order  that  the  strong  draught  that 
came  rushing  out,  might  not  extinguish  them.  At  a  distance 
of  a  few  yards  beyond  this  entrance  there   is   no  apparent 


148  THE    ROTUNDA. 

motion  of  the  air.     The  Cave  then  widens  out  and  acts  as  a 
reservoir  to  equalize  the  different  currents. 

After  leaving  a  small  archway  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Cave,  the  sides  of  which  are  walled  up  with  rock  taken  from 
the  floor  at  this  point,  and  which  is  called  the  Narrows,  we 
entered  the  Main  Cave  which  is  six  miles  in  length,  and 
which  varies  from  forty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  hight,  and 
from  sixty  to  three  hundred  feet  in  width. 

In  a  few  moments  we  found  ourselves  in  what  is  called 
the  Rotunda.  The  ceiling  is  about  one  hundred  feet  high, 
and  its  greatest  diameter  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet. 
The  floor  is  strewn  with  the  remains  of  vats,  water  pipes,  and 
other  materials,  used  by  the  saltpeter  miners  in  1812.  All  the 
nitre  in  the  Cave,  being  in  the  form  of  nitrate  of  lime,  this 
substance  was  reacted  upon  by  the  carbonate  of  potash,  and 
thus  transformed  into  nitrate  of  potassium  or  common  salt- 
peter. In  this  manner  they  manufactured  great  quantities  of 
it.  The  wood  of  which  the  pipes  &c.,  were  constructed, 
showed  no  signs  of  decay,  although  having  lain  there  for 
fifty -seven  years. 

To  the  right  of  the  Rotunda,  Audubon's  avenue  leads  off 
for  about  a  half  mile  to  a  wild,  rugged,  and  seldom  visited 
chamber,  containing  a  large  collection  of  stalactites.  The 
only  thing  worthy  of  note  concerning  this  avenue,  is,  that  in 
it,  during  the  winter  season,  millions  of  bats  hybernate. 

At  the  entrance  to  Audubon's  avenue,  stands  several 
small  stone  cottages,  built  fifteen  years  ago,  for  the  accom- 
modation of  persons  afflicted  with  consumption,  under  the 
impression  that  they  would  be  benefited  by  a  residence  in  so 
uniform  a  temperature  ;  but  the  experiment  only  proved  the 
inefficacy  of  the  atmosphere  of  the  Cave  to  such  a  disease, 


THE  METHODIST  CHURCH.  I49 

and  indeed  its  prejudicial  effects,  especially  to  consumptive 
patients.  After  living  in  total  absence  of  light  for  a  period 
of  four  months,  three  of  them  died  in  the  Cave,  and  the 
majority  of  those  who  remained  for  a  still  longer  time,  died 
within  three  weeks  after  leaving  it.  We  learned  from  the 
guides,  that  those  persons  who  remained  in  the  Cave  for  three 
or  four  months,  presented  a  frightful  appearance  when  they 
came  forth.  The  face  was  entirely  bloodless  ;  eyes  sunken, 
and  pupils  dilated  to  such  a  degree,  that  the  iris  ceased  to  be 
visible,  so  that  no  matter  what  the  original  color  of  the  eye 
might  have  been,  it  soon  appeared  black. 

We  stood  for  some  moments  taking  in  the  wonders  about 
us.  It  was  indeed  a  difficult  thing  to  realize  that  above  our 
heads,  a  sun  shone  brightly,  and  that  busy  life  existed.  All 
was  silent  as  the  grave.     All  was  intensely  black. 

This  is,  perhaps,  the  only  place  in  the  world  where  a 
person  can  count  the  pulsations  of  his  own  heart,  by  listening 
to  its  beat  ;  in  fact  the  pulsations  of  the  heart  of  another 
person  can  be  distinctly  heard,  and  even  counted  at  the 
distance  of  several  feet. 

Thunder  is  never  heard  in  these  silent  caverns  ;  and  even 
earthquakes  are  imperceptible,  as  a  gentleman  who  was  in 
the  Cave  at  the  time  that  the  shock  of  an  earthquake  was 
experienced  upon  the  surface  of  the  earth,  stated  that  he  had 
not  perceived  any  thing  at  all  unusual. 

The  Rotunda  is  situated  directly  under  the  dining  room 
of  the  Cave  Hotel  ;  on  leaving  which,  and  passing  huge 
overhanging  cliffs  to  the  left  of  the  Main  Avenue,  which  are 
said  to  resemble  the  cliffs  of  the  Kentucky  River,  after  which 
they  are  named,  we  entered  the  Methodist  Church.  It  is 
eighty  feet  in  diameter  by  forty  in  hight.      Here,  from  the 


150  THE  GIANT'S   COFFIN. 

gallery  or  pulpit,  which  consists  of  a  ledge  of  rocks,  twenty- 
five  feet  in  hight,  the  Gospel  was  proclaimed  more  than  fifty 
years  ago.  The  benches  and  logs  which  we  saw  lying  on  the 
the  floor  of  the  hall,  forming  by  their  direction  an  almost 
faultless  crescent,  occupy  the  same  position  which  they  did 
when  first  placed  in  the  church. 

Passing  on,  we  next  wound  along  through  the  Gothic 
Galleries  which  lead  to  the  Gothic  Avenue,  of  which  I  will 
speak  in  my  description  of  our  second  day's  tramp,  and  at 
last  entered  the  Grand  Archway. 

This  is  an  immense  corridor  running  in  an  almost 
straight  direction  for  over  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  ;  and 
terminating  in  the  Ball  Room.  As  its  name  implies,  the  Ball 
Room  possesses  an  extraordinarily  level  floor,  suitable  for 
terpsichorean  festivities,  but,  it  is  needless  to  remark, 
seldom  used  for  this  purpose  by  visitors. 

Traversing  a  long,  low  passage  which  gradually  opened  out 
as  we  advanced,  we  at  length  were  halted  by  Frank  before 
the  Giant's  CoflRn.  It  is  a  huge  rock,  forty  feet  long,  twenty 
wide,  and  eight  in  depth,  and  at  the  point  from  which  it  is 
viewed,  presents  a  striking  resemblance  to  a  coffin.  It  has 
evidently,  in  some  long  gone  period,  become  detached 
from  the  side  of  the  avenue  against  which  it  now  rests. 


CHAPTER    X. 

The  Gtanfs  Coffin. —  The  Wooden  Bowl  Cave. —  The  Side  Sad- 
dle Pit  and  Minerva's  Dome. —  The  Bridge  of  Sighs. —  The 
Bottomless  Pit. —  The  Fat  Man's  Misery. — The  River  Styx. 
Music  on  Echo  River. —  The  Eyeless  Fish. 

We  had  noticed  in  coming  along  through  the  last  two 
avenues,  what  had  appeared  to  be  pigeon  holes,^situated  in 
the  walls  about  six  or  eight  feet  above  the  floor.  Indeed  so 
strong  was  the  similarity,  that  they  bear  the  above  name. 
These  holes,  a  collection  of  which  form  a  natural  pigeon- 
house,  were  all  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock  by  the  solvent  action 
of  water,  containing  carbonic  acid  in  solution,  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  groves  in  Gorin's  Dome,  presently  to  be 
described. 

On  the  ceiling,  a  little  to  the  left  of  the  Giant's  Coffin, 
and  apparently  looking  down  upon  it,  is  the  figure  of  an 
anteater.  It  is  composed  of  the  efflorescence  of  black 
gypsum,  and  rests  upon  a  back  ground  of  white  limestone. 
The  resemblance  to  the  figure  of  the  animal  after  which  it  is 
named,  is  complete.  I  never  saw  anything  in  nature's 
inanimate,  that  was  so  like  the  same  thing  in  her  animate 
kingdom,  or  in  other  words,  such  a  remarkable  similarity 
between  the  same  objects  belonging  respectively  to  the 
animal  and  vegetable  kingdoms. 

Some  distance  back  from  the  Anteater,  we    saw,  also 


152  THE  WONDERS   OF  THE  CAVE. 

upon  the  ceiling,  the  figure  of  an  elephant  standing  with  his 
trunk  bent  under,  and  with  a  perfectly  shaped  saddle  upon 
his  back.  We  could  now  say  that  we  had  seen  the  elephant ! 
The  cause  of  this  phenomenon  is  the  same  as  that  of  the 
former. 

The  guide  now  pointed  out  the  remains  of  the  corn-cobs, 
left  from  the  feeding  of  the  miners  oxen,  fifty  years  ago.  It 
is  supposed  that  these  animals  were  tied  by  ropes,  to  the 
rocky  partitions  dividing  one  pigeon  hole  from  another.  We 
also  saw  their  tracks  in  the  now  hardened  clay. 

Further  on,  at  the  distance  of,  perhaps,  two  hundred 
yards,  we  noticed  bear  tracks,  and  the  guide  told  us  that 
they  were  made  by  these  animals  just  after  the  discovery  of 
the  Cave. 

We  also  could  easily  trace  the  marks  of  the  wagon- wheels 
leading  to  the  saltpeter  vats.  The  guide  was  very  kind  and 
chatty  and  he  always  had  a  story  to  tell  of  other  parties  that 
he  had  conducted  through  the  Cave  ;  or  would  take  us  all  un- 
awares by  a  sharp  pun  or  well  told  joke  on  some  portion  of 
the  Cave. 

It  was  amusing  to  hear  the  expressions  of  surprise  and 
delight  with  which  the  ladies  greeted  every  new  wonder,  and 
to  hear  them  scream  at  the  slightest  slip  or  slide  of  the  foot. 

However,  these  little  exhibitions  of  feminine  excitement 
only  contributed  to  make  the  journey  gayer  and  livelier,  and 
we  gentlemen  heartily  joined  in  any  chorus  of  laughter  that 
might  be  occasioned  by  some  comical  mishap  to  one  of  the 
party. 

Anything  to  dispel  the  awful  silence  of  this  subterranean 
night  !     What  an  element  of  pleasure  is  young  ladies  society, 


FAREWELL  TO  THE  MAIN  CAVE.  1 53 

especially  upon  such  an  adventure  as  this  !  They  were  the 
very  life  of  the  party,  and  it,  of  course,  employed  every  gen- 
tleman to  protect  them  from  falling,  amid  the  jagged  rocks. 
What  an  enlivening  effect  their  bright  colored  dresses  gave  to 
this  natural  panorama  of  moving  figures,  as  they  wound  around 
through  the  rocks,  or  climbed  a  steep  ascent  only  to  descend 
still  deeper  into  the  heart  of  some  rocky  recess.  But  let  us 
return  to  the  Giant's  Coffin.  ' 

After  a  sufficient  time  had  elapsed  for  the  outburst  of  en- 
thusiastic delight,  on  the  part  of  the  ladies,  to  subside  in  a 
measure,  Frank  told  us  that  here  we  had  to  leave  the  main 
Cave  ;  whereupon  all  their  sentimentalism  was  stirred,  to 
think  that  they  should  never  see  these  walls  again — never, 
again,  as  long  as  they  lived,  look  upon  that  Ant-eater,  never 
— never. 

All  took  a  long,  last  farewell  look  at  this  spot  which 
none  of  us  were  ever  going  to  see  again  and  we  were  turning 
away  with  thoughtful  countenances  after  the  realization  of  this 
saddening  fact,  when  Frank  turned  around  with  a  malicious 
smile  overspreading  his  good  humored  face  and  informed  the 
party  that  we  would  come  back  that  way.  This  pretty  effec- 
tually dispelled  all  sentiment,  and  we  laughed  for  the  next 
five  minutes  so  boisterously,  that  it  was  with  difficulty  that 
Frank  could  impress  upon  us  that  we  had  entered  the  Desert- 
ed Chambers,  by  a  side  avenue  leading  down  under  the  Giant's 
Coffin. 

There  is  nothing  at  all  remarkable  about  these  chambers 
outside  of  their  existence,  except  the  fact  that  they  are  the 
point  at  which  the  water  left  the  Main  Cave  to  reach  Echo 
River,  after  it  had  ceased  to  flow  out  of  the  mouth  of  the 
former  into  Green  River.     They  are  shallow,  smooth-bottom- 


154 

ed,  inverted  basins,  as  it  were.  We  were  obliged  to  stoop  to 
accomodate  our  hight  Jo  theirs.  This  uncomfortable  position 
however,  did  not  last  long,  for  in  a  few  moments  we  stood  in 
the  Wooden  Bowl  Cave.  This  is  an  irregularly  shaped  hall, 
with  nothing  specially  peculiar  about  it,  except  that  on  the 
ceiling  there  is  a  round  hollow,  exactly  in  the  form  of  an  in- 
verted wooden  bowl.  This  fact  partly  gives  it  its  name. 
Some  say  that  the  whole  hall  looks  like  an  inverted  bowl,  but 
we  failed  to  see  such  resemblance.  But  the  real  reason  for 
styling  this  part  of  the  Cave  by  such  a  common-place  cogno- 
men, is  that  an  actual  wooden  bowl  was  found  in  it  when  it 
was  discovered,  and  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  used  by 
the  Indians  in  early  times. 

We  were  now  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground. 

Black  Snake  Avenue,  which  enterss  the  Main  Cave,  near 
the  Cottages,  communicates  with  Wooden  Bowl  Cave.  It  re- 
ceives its  name  from  its   serpentine  course  and  black  walls. 

Passing  down  a  sharp  declivity  and  a  flight  of  wooden 
steps  called  the  Steeps  of  Time,  we  entered  Martha's  Palace. 
The  Palace  is  about  forty  feet  in  hight,  and  sixty  feet  in  di- 
ameter. It  is  certainly  not  particularly  attractive  as  a  place  of 
residence,  and  it  seemed  rather  peculiar  that  Martha  should 
choose  such  an  humble  abode.  We  did  not  find  the  mistress 
at  home,  but,  *  leaving  our  cards'  we  passed  on  and  stopped  to 
quench  our  thirst  at  a  spring  of  clear  water  that  adorned  the 
centre  of  the  floor  of  what  is  called  the  Arched  Way.  This 
is  Richardson's  Spring,  named  after  a  Miss  Richardson,  from 
Louisville,  Kentucky.  The  ceilings,  walls  and  floor  of  the 
Arched  Way  bear  evidence  of  its  once  having  been  the 
channel  for  running  water. 


THE   BOTTOMLESS   PIT.  1 55 

The  Side-Saddle  Pit  over  which  rests  a  dome  sixty  feet 
high,  was  next  pointed  out  on  our  right.  It  was  a  frightful 
looking  hole  ;  but,  fortunately  was  covered  partly  by  some 
joists  that  formed  the  foundation  for  a  future  platform,  to 
enable  visitors  to  walk  out  upon  it,  and  thus  obtain  a  better 
view  of  the  dome.  The  Pit  is  ninety  feet  deep,  and  at  its 
widest  point  about  twenty  feet  across. 

Minerva's  Dome  is  situated  about  twenty  feet  to  the  left 
of  the  Side-Saddle  Pit.  It  is  fifty  feet  high,  and  ten  feet 
wide.  It  is  a  miniature  representation  of  Gorin's  Dome.  The 
Pit  and  both  domes,  have  been  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  by 
the  solvent  action  of  water,  containing  carbonic  acid  in 
solution,  and  the  guides  say  they  are  still  enlarging,  the 
aperture  leading  down  into  the  Pit,  presenting  the  outlines  of 
a  well-shaped  side-saddle  ;  thence  the  name. 

This  was  the  first  pit  we  had  met  with,  so  of  course, 
the  ladies  were  exuberant.  They  screamed  at  its  depth  ; 
laughed  at  the  possibility  of  falling  in,  and  I  was  in  doubt  as 
to  whether  they  were  about  to  cry  because  there  was  no 
chance  for  a  romantic  '  scene'  by  doing  so  ;  but  they  all  event- 
ually recovered  their  composure,  and  we  proceeded  without 
loss  of  numbers. 

We  next  came  to  the  celebrated  Bottomless  Pit — 
although  its  name  is  rather  paradoxical ;  for  it  is  only  one 
hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  deep,  varying  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  feet  in  width.  A  substantial  wooden  bridge  is 
thrown  across  this  fearful  chasm,  and  bears  the  historic 
name  of  the  Bridge  of  Sighs.  We  all  collected  on  it  at 
about  the  center,  and  gave  one  huge  sigh,  for  effect.  The 
effect  was,  that  we  all  laughed  heartily  instead  of  sighing.  The 
guide  was  inclined  to  be  jocose  when  he  significantly  rc- 
T 


I  56  SHELBY'S  DOME. 

marked,  that  although  the  bridge  was  called  the  Bridge  of 
Sighs,  it  was'nt  of  sufficient  size  to  carry  us  all  with  safety. 
We  left  without  a  sigh  ;  but  on  the  other  side  we  stopped 
and  amused  ourselves  for  some  time,  by  casting  pebbles  and 
rocks  into  the  abyss,  and  listening  to  them  as  they  went  crash- 
ing down,  down,  down,  each  time  turning  away  with  a 
shudder,  at  the  thought  of  such  a  fearful  depth. 

Shelby's  Dome  which  is  sixty  feet  high,  rests  directly  over 
the  Bottomless  Pit.  Frank  illumined  them  both  by  magnesium 
light,  with  fine  effect.  It  was  a  grand  sight,  one  hundred 
and  seventy-five  feet  down  and  sixty  up  ;  and  we,  almost  as 
it  were,  suspended  midway.  He  then  lit  and  threw  in  some 
saturated  paper  ;  we  leaned  over  the  brink  and  saw  it  go 
whirling  and  eddying  down,  down,  until  we  •  lost  sight  of  it 
behind  some  projecting  rocks.  The  damp,  grooved  walls  of 
the  pit  were  visible  for  over  a  hundred  feet  ;  we  almost 
sickened  at  the  sight. 

On  leaving  the  Bottomless  Pit,  a  rock-strewn  room  is 
entered,  which  is  about  twenty  feet  in  hight,  and  forty  in  di- 
ameter, bearing  the  name  of  Reveler's  Hall.  Here,  it  is  the 
custom  of  visitors  to  rest  for  a  short  time,  and  discuss  the 
terrors  of  the  Pit.  This  is  generally  followed  by  the  bringing 
forth  of  the  potables,  when  the  health  and  safety  of  all  parties 
is  duly  swallowed  ;  but,  by  some  mischance,  our  lunch  man 
had  gotten  too  far  ahead  to  be  recalled,  so  we  sat  down  with- 
out any  beverage  except  that  of  cold  water. 

Imagine  the  velocity  with  which  the  young  ladies 
tongues  vibrated.  Nobody  could  talk  fast  enough.  Every 
one  seemed  bent  on  being  heard  by  everyone  else,  before 
everyone  else.  So  that,  as  may  be  imagined,  we  had  quite  a 
merry  time  ;  but   at    length,   Frank,   our  constant  but  ever 


THE  SCOTCHMAN'S  TRAP.  I  57 

faithful  monitor,  warned  us  that  time  was  fleeting  ;  so  we  fell 
into  line  again  and  were  once  more  on  the  move. 

After  passing  through  a  low  archway  about  four  feet  in 
hight,  called  the  Valley  of  Humility,  the  ceiling  of  which  is 
smooth  and  white,  and  appeared  as  though  it  had  been 
plastered,  we  came  to  the  Scotchman's  Trap.  The  Trap  is  a 
circular  opening  through  which  it  is  necessary  to  descend  by 
means  of  rough  wooden  steps.  It  is  about  five  feet  in  diameter, 
and  over  it,  is  suspended  a  huge  boulder,  which,  if  it  were  to 
fall,  would  completely  close  the  avenue  leading  to  Echo  River. 
It  is  supported  solely  by  about  three  inches  of  its  edge  resting 
against  another  rock.  Should  this  edge  crumble,  it  would  be 
precipitated  upon  the  opening  below.  It  looks  very  danger- 
ous, and  it  was  some  time  before  the  ladies  could  be  induced 
to  risk  their  precious  lives  by  descending,  notwithstanding 
the  knowledge  that  the  rock  had  been  standing  in  this 
position  for  ages.  But  at  last,  one  of  their  boldest  spirits, 
Miss  Mary  Withers,  of  Cincinnati,  had  courage  enough  to 
venture. 

After  this,  we  got  along  splendidly.  A  short  distance 
beyond  the  Scotchman's  Trap,  in  what  is  called  the  Lower 
Branch,  there  occurs  a  curious  shaped  rock,  which  is  named 
the  Shanghai  Chicken,  from  its  striking  resemblance  to  that 
animal.  This,  it  is  said  to  be  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
below  the  surface  of  the  earth. 

Now  we  approached  that  far  famed  portion  of  the 
Cave,  the  Fat  Man's  Misery.  Here  was  an  obstacle  which 
to  less  determined  spirits,  or  greater  rotundity  of  persons, 
would  have  proved  insurmountable  ;  nevertheless  it  was  a 
rather  tight  squeeze,  but  having  no  large  individuals  in  our 
party,   we  managed   pretty  well.     The  young  ladies,  being 


158  FAT  MAN'S  MISERY. 

the  most  active  on  account  of  their  lightness  and  the  deftness 
with  which  they  climbed  along  over  the  rough  rocks  got 
along  much  more  easily  than  the  remainder  of  the  party,  but 
all  attempts  at  conversation  proved  worse  than  a  failure,  for 
all  the  gentlemen  were  commiserating  their  awkward  and  un- 
comfortable positions,  at  the  same  time  writhing  and  squirming 
themselves  along  in  the  most  comical  manner.  There  is  'nt 
much  poetry  in  the  Fat  Man's  Misery.  But  I  had  almost  for- 
gotten to  describe  it  ! 

It  is  a  narrow,  tortuous  avenue,  fifty  yards  in  length,  which 
has  been  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  by  the  mechanical  action 
of  water.  The  lower  part  of  the  passage  varies  in  width  from 
one  to  thirty  feet,  and  at  the  upper,  from  four  to  ten  feet. 
In  hight,  it  varies  from  four  to  eight  feet.  Contrary  to  the 
general  impression,  their  was  never  a  man  too  large  to  pass 
through  the  Fat  Man's  Misery. 

The  **  pons  assinorum"  of  this  avenue  is,  a  spot  where 
there  is  a  sharp  and  jagged  stone,  that  lies  directly  over  the 
cut,  so  that  in  addition  to  this  being  almost  the  narrowest 
place  in  the  whole  passage,  one  is  obliged  to  bend  double, 
in  order  to  creep  under.  Imagine  a  very  corpulent  man,  in 
the  act  of  compressing  his  body  in  two  ways,  both  laterally 
and  perpendicularly  in  this  novel  manner.  It  is  too  ridiculous  ! 

After  much  fun  and  more  labor,  we  marshaled  our  dilapi- 
dated, but  triumphant  forces  on  the  other  side  of  the  Misery, 
and  prepared  for  another  move.  Emerging  from  the  low  ceil- 
inged,  cramped  avenue  through  which  we  had  pushed  our  way, 
we  found  ourselves  in  a  hall,  varying  from  forty,  to  sixty  feet 
in  width,  and  from  five  to  twenty  in  hight,  and  it  proved  in 
reality,  to  be  what  its  name  implied,  a  great  relief.  On  the 
floor  of  Great  Relief  the  direction  of  the  currents  of  water  that 


BACON  CHAMBER.  I  59 

filled  these  avenues,  could  be  traced.  At  the  side  next  to  Fat 
Man's  Misery,  it  is  strewn  with  gravel  ;  near  the  center,  sand 
occurs,  and  still  further  on,  mud  is  deposited,  demonstrating 
the  fact  that  it  flowed  into  Echo  River. 

River  Hall  extends  from  Great  Relief  to  the  River  Styx. 
It  averages  fifty  feet  in  width  and  is  covered  with  rough, 
pointed  rocks  that  seem  as  if  they  had  but  recently  become 
detached  from  the  ceiling.  It  is  a  wild  portion  of  the  cavern 
and  deserves  to  possess  a  more  appropriate  name  than  its 
present  one. 

Picking  our  way  carefully  over  the  rocks,  and  meeting, 
every  now  and  then,  with  a  ludicrous  adventure,  while  assist- 
ing our  young  lady  friends  past  the  most  dangerous  places, 
we  at  length  reached  the  Bacon  Chamber.  It  received  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  small  masses  of  rock  project  from  the 
ceiling,  that  in  size  and  appearance,  resembled  immense  Bou- 
logna  sausages  or  bacon  hams.  The  guides  called  them  the 
Odd-Fellow's  Link,  which  I  think  is  more  appropriate,  as  they 
are  joined  by  the  extreme  ends  and  seem  to  form  a  chain  ex- 
tending across  the  roof  of  the  cavern.  The  Avenue  which 
leads  to  Mammoth  Dome  and  Spark's  Avenue,  takes  its  origin 
in  Bacon  Chamber.  Having  examined  the  peculiar  features  of 
interest  in  this  avenue  to  our  full  satisfaction,  we  pushed  on. 

About  forty  feet  below  the  terrace  which  extends  to  the 
Natural  Bridge,  is  a  dismal  sheet  of  water,  fifteen  feet  deep, 
twenty  wide,  and  fifty  in  length  called  the  "  Dead  Sea.  "  It 
is  quite  as  gloomy  in  appearance  as  its  celebrated  namesake, 
and  as  you  pass  it  to  the  right,  while  crossing  the  narrow, 
slippery  ledge  that  only  affords  a  most  precarious  footing,  and 
looking  down  into  utter  darkness,  hear  the  gurgle  and  splash 
of  deep  water,  you  fancy  that  the  only  thing  lacking  to  trans- 


l6o  LAKE   LETHE. 

form  this  Dead  Sea  into  a  counterpart  to  the  Burning  Lake  of 
the  Infernal  Regions,  is  the  flames. 

Following  River  Hall  for  some  distance  further,  we  arriv- 
ed at  the  banks  of  the  River  Styx,  which  is  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  in  length,  about  forty  wide,  and,  in  depth,  varies 
from  thirty  to  forty  feet.  It  has  a  subterranean  communica- 
tion with  the  other  rivers  of  the  Cave,  and  when  Green  River 
rises  to  a  considerable  hight  has  an  open  communication  with 
all  of  them.  The  river  is  spanned  by  the  Natural  Bridge, 
which  is  about  thirty  feet  above  it.  When  the  far  bank  of 
the  Styx  is  illuminated  by  Bengal  light,  the  view  from  the 
Natural  Bridge,  is  awfully  sublime.  We  paused  upon  the  high- 
est point,  and  looked  across,  while  Frank  lit  up  the  deepest 
recesses  with  magnificent  effect. 

"What  a  wonderful  freak  of  nature  is  this  Mammoth 
Cave  ! "  is  the  thought  that  invariably  presents  itself  to  one's 
mind  at  every  new  turn.  There  is  always  some  new  thing, 
stranger  than  the  last.  To  enjoy  this  view  alone,  was  worth 
the  labor  of  our  long  and  fatiguing  tramp.  But  we  could  not 
tarry  too  long,  for  Frank  promised  us  better  things,  so  we 
hastened  forward. 

We  had  not  gone  far,  before  we  came  in  sight  of  Lake 
Lethe,  a  body  of  water  of  the  same  length  as  the  River  Styx 
and  extending  in  the  direction  of  the  avenue,  the  floor  of 
which  is  covered  by  it.  It  is  about  forty  feet  wide  and  varies 
from  three  to  thirty  feet  in  depth.  The  ceiling  of  the  avenue 
in  this  part,  is  ninety  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  Lake. 
We  approaced  the  Lake  by  descending  an  abrupt  hill  that 
only  terminated  at  the  water's  edge.  The  soil  around  the 
margin  of  the  stream  for  the  distance  of  a  few  feet,  was 
very  soft,  wet  and  spongy,  yielding  under  foot,  thus  rendering 


GREAT  WALK.  l6l 

it  as  unpleasant,  as  it  was  imprudent  to  venture  nearer  than 
the  limit  of  the  rocky  portion  of  the  floor.  However,  there 
had  been  a  wide  plank  thrown  down,  which  extended  to  the 
landing,  where  two  flat-bottomed  boats  awaited  us.  It  was  a 
most  uninviting  spot.  Everything  was  wet  and  dark,  giving 
a  sombre  cast  even  to  our  countenances.  The  water  flowed 
sluggishly  along,  looking  like  a  great  inky  sewer,  but  it  only 
appeared  so  from  being  cast  into  the  deepest  gloom  by  our 
lights,  but  in  reality  it  was  pure  and  crystalline. 

The  bottoms  of  the  boats  were  covered  with  muddy  water 
which  added  to  the  muckyness  of  the  surroundings,  and  every 
thing  was  damp  and  dismal,  so  that  before  we  had  accomplish- 
ed half  the  distance  to  the  other  side,  we  fully  appreciated  the 
inapjDropriateness  of  its  name.  We  did  not  go  directly  across 
but  had  to  follow  the  bed  of  the  lake  for  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  yards,  as  the  rocky  banks  were  too  steep  to  admit 
of  being  scaled.  At  last  we  reached  the  landing  and  disem- 
barked amid  the  greatest  noise  and  confusion,  occasioned  of 
course,  by  the  young  ladies. 

We  now  stood  in  what  is  called  Great  Walk,  which  ex- 
tends from  Lake  Lethe  to  Echo  River,  a  distance  of  five 
hundred  yards.  This  is  an  interesting  avenue  from  the  fact 
that  the  ceiling,  which  is  forty  feet  high,  is  covered  with  rocks 
which  present  a  striking  resemblance  to  cumulus  clouds, 
especialy  when  brought  out  by  the  magnesium  light.  These 
rocks  are  composed  of  white  limestone,  a  substance  which  is 
extremely  abundant  in  most  localities  of  the  Cave. 

Echo  River  is  of  comparatively  easy  access  by  means  of 
the  Great  Walk,  as  its  floor  is  covered  with  fine  yellow  sand. 
A  rise  of  five  feet  of  water  in  the  former,  overflows  Great  Walk 
and  gives  a  depth  of  water  sufficient  to  allow  the  boats  to  pass 


l62  MUSIC  ON  ECHO  RIVER. 

from  Lake  Lethe  to  Echo  River.  There  are  times,  when  the 
Great  Walk  is  filled  with  water  from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling  ; 
and,  in  fact,  it  is  not  an  uncommon  occurence  for  the  water  to 
rise  to  a  hight  of  sixty  feet  in  Lake  Lethe,  by  which  the  iron 
railing  on  the  terrace  above  the  Dead  Sea,  is  entirely  sub- 
merged. This  great  rise  is  produced  invariably  by  a  freshet 
in  Green  River. 

We  had  proceeded  about  three  hundred  yards,  when  we 
were  halted  by  Frank,  who  told  us  to  listen  attentively.  We 
stopped  for  a  moment  ;  all  was  still  as  death  ;  then  we  heard 
far  distant  strains  of  music,  that  sounded  as  though  they 
issued  from  the  very  bowels  of  the  earth.  We  perceived,  too, 
the  continued  reverberation  of  a  thousand  echoes,  a  soft  and 
sweet  accompaniment  to  the  melodious  notes  of  a  clarionet. 
We  listened  in  breathless  silence.  A  dim  light  appeared  ;  then 
another  and  another,  until  they  came  in  clusters  ;  groups  of 
starlike  apparitions.  We  could  now  hear  the  sound  of  oars, 
as  they  splashed  in  the  crystal  waters,  re-echoing  with  a  hollow 
rumble  under  the  vaulted  archway  of  Echo  River. 

The  lights  moved  slowly,  gliding  along  as  if  impelled  by 
some  mysterious  power,  which  directed  the  course  of  this 
wierd  procession,  as  well  as  sustained  its  magic  brightness. 
Now  the  chorus  of  many  voices  swelled  up  to  the  ear  and 
blended  in  exquisite  harmony  with  the  instrumental  music. 
All  defects  were  lost  in  the  echo,  and  in  the  wild  grandeur  of 
the  surroundings. 

It  was  a  scene  of  unalloyed  romance.  The  music  sounds 
doubly  enchanting  amid  those  gloom-enshrouded,  everlasting 
rocks.  It  was  the  other  party  crossing  Echo  River  and  sing- 
ing upon  the  water.  They  had  taken  the  Cave  Hotel  band 
with  them.     We  were  obliged  to  wait  some  time  for  the  boats 


THE  ENCHANTING  DELUSION.  163 

to  return,  which  interval,  we  employed  in  resting  and  com- 
menting upon  the  scene  just  witnessed.  It  was  certainly  the 
nearest  approach  to  my  ideal  of  the  combination  of  Heaven 
and  Hell  that  I  have  ever  experienced.  The  fearfully  rugged 
and  strangely  shaped  boulders,  jutting  out  upon  all  sides  like 
huge  demons,  the  red  glare  of  the  light  from  their  damp  faces, 
taking  the  place  of  eyes,  the  intensely  black  pall  that  en- 
veloped every  thing  outside  the  circle  of  illumination,  and  the 
silence  of  the  grave  that  pervaded  this  horrible  cavern,  repre- 
sented the  hell  of  my  imagination.  On  the  other  hand,  look- 
ing beyond  the  pure  flowing  waters,  a  miniature  Jordan,  we 
saw  the  lights  glimmering  in  the  Eternal  City,  and  heard  the 
voices  of  the  angels  as  they  swelled  the  chorus  of  glad  praise- 
anthems  to  their  Lord. 

This  enchanting  delusion  was  strengthened  by  the  fact 
that  the  other  parts  were  singing  the  Doxology,  and  with  an 
effect  that  left  a  deep  impression  upon  us  all.  We  were  too 
far  distant  to  distinguish  any  outlines,  all  we  saw  was  the 
slowly  moving  train  of  lights,  and  all  we  heard  was  music. 
We  learned  afterward,  that  we  had  been  particularly  fortunate 
in  hearing  this  party  sing,  for  they  proved  to  be  a  company  of 
professional  singers,  traveling  together  during  the  Summer. 

They  had  four  magnificent  voices,  a  second  bass,  a  high 
tenor,  a  contralto,  and  a  very  sweet  soprano.  The  rest  served 
to  fill  in  the  intervals  of  the  music. 

At  last  we  moved  on  down  the  river.  Here,  we  found 
our  lunch-man  serving  in  the  capacity  of  ferry-boy. 

Echo  River  extends  from  the  Great  Walk  to  the  com- 
mencement of  Silliman's  Avenue,  a  distance  of  three  quarters 
of  a  mile. 


164  silliman's  avenue. 

The  avenue  at  the  entrance  to  the  river,  under  ordinary 
circumstances  being  only  about  three  feet  in  hight,  we  found 
it  necessary  to  deposit  ourselves  along  the  sides  of  the  boat, 
sitting  in  a  row  upon  the  edge  of  the  gunwale.  After  much 
screaming  on  the  part  of  the  ladies,  much  coaxing  from  the 
gentlemen,  and  mnch  cautioning  by  the  guide,  we  at  last 
found  ourselves  seated  in  order. 

For  the  first  few  feet  we  were  obliged  to  incline  our  heads, 
in  order  to  avoid  a  collision  with  the  hard  rocks  above,  but  after 
this  distance,  the  avenue  widened  out,  and  the  ceiling  averag- 
ed about  fifteen  feet  in  hight.  It  varied  in  width  from  twenty 
to  two  hundred  feet,  and  in  depth  below  the  surface  of  the 
water,  from  ten  to  thirty  feet.  When  there  has  been  no  rise 
in  Green  River  for  several  weeks,  the  water  in  Echo  Rivier 
becomes  remarkably  transparent,  so  much  so,  in  fact,  that 
rocks  can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  ten  to  twenty  feet  below 
the  surface. 

The  connection  between  Echo  and  Green  Rivers  is  near 
the  commencement  of  Silliman's  Avenue,  so  that  when  the 
water  from  the  latter  flows  into  Echo  River  at  a  temperature 
higher  than  that  of  the  Cave,  a  fog  is  produced,  which,  it  is 
said,  in  point  of  density,  rivals  that  off"  the  banks  of  Newfound- 
land. There  have  been  several  very  sad  accidents,  attended 
with  much  loss  of  life,  whose  cause  has  been  attributed  to 
the  fact  that  this  fog  has  so  blinded  and  bewildered  those 
persons  who  have  become  lost  in  it,  that  they  have   perished. 

Leading  up  to  the  left  of  the  point  at  which  we  entered 
the  boats,  is  a  small  and  rough  avenue  called  Purgatory.  It 
takes  its  beginning  at  the  end  of  Great  Walk  and  terminates 
in  the  avenue  of  Echo  River,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
the  landing  in  Silliman's  Avenue.     We  had  a  great  deal  of 


EYELESS   AND   CRAW    FISH.  165 

fun  while  climbing  this  hill,  for  it  seemed  utterly  impossible  for 
the  fair  portion  of  our  company  to  surmount  some  very  rough 
rocks  that  blocked  the  way,  consequently,  a  gentleman  in 
front  and  one  behind  was  absolutely  necessary  to  accomplish 
the  difficult  crossing,  which  was  always  accompanied  by  the 
most  heart-rending  but  ill-timed  screams.  There  is  nothing 
like  having  young  ladies  along  to  brighten  such  an  experience, 
after  all. 

A  rise  of  eighteen  feet  of  water,  however,  fills  the  avenue 
of  Purgatory  and  cuts  off  all  communication  with  the  outer 
world. 

Among  the  curiosities  of  this  subterranean  stream,  is  that 
of  its  eyeless  fish  and  craw  fish.  They  possess  rudiments  of 
eyes  but  no  optic  nerve,  and  they  are,  therefore,  incapable  of 
being  affected  by  the  most  intense  light.  Both  species  are 
perfectly  white,  have  the  peculiarity  of  propelling  themselves 
backward,  instead  of  forward,  like  ordinary  fish. 

Their  tail  resembles  the  claw  of  a  tack-hammer,  except 
that,  in  this  instance,  the  cleft  or  notch  is  closed,  forming  a 
mass  of  white  flesh  which  is  considered  by  some  as  the  dain- 
tiest of  morsels  for  the  table.  These  fish  range  in  size  from 
one  to  eight  inches  in  length,  seldom  exceeding  the  latter 
measure.  We  succeeded,  after  much  engineering,  in  obtain- 
ing some  very  good  specimens  of  this  curiosity,  but  it  was 
only  through  the  generous  kindness  of  a  friend,  who  fished 
them  for  us.  I  will  not  mention  names  as,  the  whole  proceed- 
ing was  directly  in  opposition  to  the  Cave  Regulations. 

We  were  now  pushed  along  slowly  by  Frank,  with  his  oar 
against  the  ceiling,  for  some  distance,  when  we  came  suddenly 
around  a  sharp  point  of  rocks  and  discovered  that  we  had 
reached  the  second  landing.     We  succeeded  in  disembarking 


l66  CASCADE    HALL   AND   DRIPPING   SPRING. 

without  any  excitement  worthy  of  mention,  and  proceeded 
up  Silliman's  Avenue.  This  avenue  is  one  and  a  half  miles  in 
length  and  extends  from  Echo  River  to  the  Pass  of  El  Ghor. 
It  is  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  high  and  from  twenty  to  two 
hundred  wide. 

Judging  from  the  rugged  and  water-worn  appearance  of 
the  walls  and  ceiling,  I  should  think  that  Silliman's  Avenue  is 
one  of  the  most  recently  formed  portions  of  the  Cave. 

First,  we  came  to  Cascade  Hall,  which  is  two  hundred 
feet  in  diameter  and  twenty  feet  high.  It  receives  its  name 
from  the  beautiful  cascade  that  falls  into  it  from  the  ceiling. 
Frank  went  behind  the  falling  water  and  illumined  the  H  a  1 
It  gave  a  superb  effect  to  the  crystal  drops  of  water  that  were 
separated  in  their  descent  from  the  main  body,  forming  an 
amber-tinted  mist,  when  viewed  in  the  red  light. 

This  spot,  especially,  seemed  to  call  forth  more  than  the 
usual  amount  of  praise,  and  it  was  long  before  the  young 
ladies  would  consent  to  bid  adieu  to  this  most  charming 
cascade. 

A  little  further  on  we  saw  the  Dripping  Spring.  This  is 
nothing  more  than  a  limpid  pool  of  water  that  is  supplied  from 
the  ceiling.  The  only  thing  that  needs  mention  here  was  the 
profuse  abundance  of  stalactites  and  stalagmites. 

A  few  hundred  yards  from  the  Dripping  Spring  we  de- 
cended  into  the  Infernal  Regions.  This  was  a  terribly  gloomy, 
forbidding  cavern,  seeming  to  open  down  into  the  very  earth 
with  horrid  yawn.  On  descending  the  slippery,  rocky  path 
that  winds  down  the  steep  side,  one  almost  fancies  that  at 
each  step  a  Pluto,  with  his  two  pronged  fork  and  green  eyed 
serpent  will  meet  one,  prepared  to  take  vengeance  upon  him 
for    presuming    to    enter   within    the    charmed  circle    of  his 


THE   INFERNAL   REGIONS.  167 

Hadean  domains.  One  feels  an  instinctive  shrinking  as  he 
passes  among  the  high  rocks  that  stand  on  either  hand  like 
giants,  blocking  the  lonely  way.  Imagine,  at  every  turn  a 
dozen  demons,  lurking  just  behind  the  next  boulder  ready  for 
the  spring  upon  their  prey.  Everything  in  this  dismal  pit 
savors  of  the  ghastly,  the  wierd,  the  mysterious.  Conversa- 
tion was  hushed.  We  spoke  in  low  tones  as  if  fearful  of  being 
overheard  by  the  evil  spirits  around  us.  We  walked  along  at 
times  in  perfect  silence,  the  only  sound  breaking  the  ominous 
stillness  being  the  dull  thud  of  our  feet  as  they  sank  into  the 
wet  clay.  It  was  almost  impossible  to  maintain  our  footing, 
the  ground  was  so  slimy,  and  the  rocks  so  encrusted  with  saline 
and  alkaline  secretions  that,  when  we  at  last  reached  the  top 
of  the  opposite  side,  we  hailed  the  smooth,  open  avenue  again 
with  delight. 

We  rested  for  some  time  before  proceeding  to  talk  over 
the  horrors  of  the  infernal  regions,  and  all  came  to  the  unan- 
imous conclusion,  that  if  the  real  Hades  was  anything  like 
that  in  Mammoth  Cave,  we  would  all  strive  from  that  hour  to 
live  better  lives  ;  but  all  such  resolutions  were  forgotten  when, 
a  short  time  after,  we  stopped  under  the  Sea  Serpent.  This 
is  a  tortuous  crevice  in  the  rock  overhead,  that  has  been  cut 
by  running  water,  the  layer  of  rock  that  formed  the  floor  of 
it  having  become  detached.  We  did  not  rest  here  long,  how- 
ever, for  we  had  overstayed  our  time  at  the  Infernal  Regions. 

The  valley  Way  Side  Cut  was  next  in  order,  but  as  it  is  a 
small  avenue  leading  off  from  Silliman's  Avenue  and  returning 
into  it  a  short  distance  further  on,  and  the  young  ladies  not 
caring  to  undergo  any  extra  climbing  to  see  it,  we  passed  on. 
This  Avenue,  however,  contains,  according  to  Frank's  state- 
ment, (and  he  knows)  several  beautiful  points,  and  is  well 
worth  exploring. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

A  Subterranean  Concert  Room. —  The  Highest  Dome  in  the 
Cave.-^The  Fly  Chamber. — Marthas  Vineyard. — A  Ro- 
mantic Meal. —  The  Last  Rose  of  Summer ,  {before  last). — 
Diamond  Grotto. — An  Underground  Mountain. —  The  End 
of  the  Cave  and  the  Maelstrom. — Music  on  Echo  River. — 
Once  More  A  bove  Ground. 

We  climbed  the  Hill  of  Fatigue,  and  stood  by  the  Great 
Western,  which  is  an  immense  rock,  many  times  larger  than 
any  vessel,  and  the  end  of  which  closely  resembles  the  stern 
of  a  ship.  The  rudder  is  turned  to  the  starboard  side.  We 
noticed  that  some  enterprising  youth  had  taken  the  pains  to 
climb  to  a  great  hight  and  write  the  name  of  the  rock  in 
chalk. 

We  commended  the  Unknown's  spirit  and  proceeded  to 
examine  the  Rabbit,  which  is  a  large  stone  on  the  right,  which 
bears  a  remarkable  similarity  to  that  animal. 

Having  criticised  this  curiosity  at  length,  we  walked  on 
until  we  reached  Ole  Bull's  Concert  Room.  This  apartment 
is  situated  on  the  left  of  the  Avenue  and  is  thirty  feet  wide, 
forty  feet  long,  and  twenty  high. 

When  Ole  Bull  made  his  first  tour  through  the  United 
States,  he  visited  the  Cave  and  performed  in  the  room  which 


I/O  THE   HIGHEST   DOME. 

has  since  received  his  name.  In  questioning  Frank,  we  learned 
that  he  played  before  quite  a  large  audience.  A  great  num- 
ber of  people  had  heard  of  his  entering  the  Cave,  and  antici- 
pating such  a  treat,  had  formed  a  very  large  party  and 
accompanied  him.  This  was  the  last  point  of  special  interest 
in  Silliman's  Avenue.  This  Avenue  is  named  in  honor  of 
Professor  B.  Silliman,  of  Yale  College. 

We  left  Silliman's  Avenue  when  within  a  half  a  mile  of 
the  Pass  of  El.  Ghor  by  entering  Rhoda's  Arcade,  which  led 
off  to  the  left.  This  Arcade  is  fifty  yards  in  length  and  from 
five  to  ten  feet  in  hight.  The  walls  and  ceiling  are  encrusted 
with  the  crystals  of  gypsum  and  carbonate  of  lime  of  great 
brilliancy  and  indescribable  beauty.  The  floor  is  covered 
with  white  crystals  of  limestone  and  is  obstructed  by  fallen 
rock.  In  point  of  beauty,  there  is  no  avenue  in  the  Cave,  at 
least  that  we  could  discover,  superior  to  this.  Every  few  feet, 
the  guide  illumined  it  by  means  of  the  magnesium  light, 
which  brought  out  the  hitherto  unseen  beauties  of  the  gypsum 
formations.  The  crystals  were  arranged  in  every  conceiva- 
ble position  and  shape.  Nothing  could  be  more  exquisite 
than  the  delicate  crystalline  rose-leaves  as  white  as  snow, 
that  we  noticed  on  the  ceiling  ;  and  nothing  more  inviting 
than  the  lusciousness  of  the  perfectly  formed  grapes  and  plums 
that  seemed  to  grow  in  such  tempting  profusion  upon  the 
walls. 

It  was  with  regret  that  we  quitted  this  wonderful  arcade, 
but  it  was  only  to  behold  new  wonders,  for  We  next  stood 
under  Lucy's  Dome,  which  is  the  highest  in  the  Cave,  being 
sixty  feet  wide  and  over  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high. 
The  sides  appear  to  be  composed  of  immense  curtains,  ex- 
tending from  the  ceiling  to  the  floor.  It  was  a  grand  sight. 
The  only  unfortunate  feature  connected    with  this  dome   is 


THE   FLY    CHAMBER.  I7I 

that,  it  is  impossible  for  visitors  to  see  the  top,  as  at  the  hight 
of  about  three  hundred  feet,  it  makes  a  sharp  bend  and  so 
folds  upon  itself,  thus  shutting  out  a  view  of  its  greater  alti- 
tudes. It  is  for  this  reason  that  Mammoth  Dome  has  obtain- 
ed a  more  extended  reputation  for  its  vastness,  as  it  is  almost 
the  same  hight  and  can  be  seen  clear  to  the  top. 

We  next  came  to  the  Pass  of  El  Ghor.  This  pass  resem- 
bles Silliman's  avenue,  but  the  cliffs  composing  the  walls  pre- 
sent a  more  wild  and  rugged  appearance.  It  is  about  two 
miles  in  length  and  possesses  many  points  of  interest,  of 
which  the  first  we  saw  was  the  Hanging  Rocks  that  look  as 
though  they  were  about  to  fall,  thus  closing  entirely  the  avenue, 
from  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  which  they  are  suspended.  Of 
course,  we  found  it  next  to  impossible  to  convince  our  young 
lady  friends,  even  on  the  guide's  statement,  that  not  a  rock 
had  fallen  since  the  discovery  of  the  Cave.  After  a  good 
deal  of  persuasion  spiced  with  fun,  we  induced  them  to  run, 
one  at  a  time,  under  the  threatening  boulders. 

Passing  this  apparently  dangerous  spot,  we  next  came  to 
the  Fly  Chamber.  It  is  quite  a  large  apartment,  with  noth- 
ing to  merit  remark  except  the  fact,  that  crystals  of  black 
gypsum,  of  the  size  of  a  common  house  fly,  project  from  the 
ceiling  in  great  numbers.  One  of  the  party,  seeing  some  one 
reach  up  with  his  long  walking  staff,  exclaimed  quickly, 
*'  Take  care,  they'll  all  fly  away  if  you  poke  'em."  Indeed  it 
was  very  difficult  to  distinguish  them  from  real  flies,  even 
upon  a  close  examination. 

Table  Rock  was  soon  after  pointed  out,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  avenue,  projecting  from  the  wall  to  a  distance  of  about 
ten  feet.     It  is  only  two  feet  in  thickness,  and  has  no  means 
of  support  except  its  connection  with  the  rocky  wall. 
V 


1/2  THE  BLACK  HOLE  OF  CALCUTTA. 

Leaving  Table  Rock,  we  came  to  the  Crown,  which  is 
six  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  avenue,  about  ten  feet  from  the  floor.  It  closely  resem- 
bles the  object  after  which  it  is  named,  being  a  jagged-edged, 
circularly-formed  rock,  the  tooth-like  border,  being  the  very 
counterpart  of  a  real  crown. 

Boone's  Avenue  leads  off  to  the  left  at  a  distance  of  a 
few  feet  from  the  Crown.  It  has  been  explored  for  over  a 
mile,  but  nothing  further  is  known  of  its  extent  or 
dimensions. 

Corinna's  Dome,  which  we  were  now  approaching,  rests 
directly  over  the  centre  of  the  avenue.  It  is  forty  feet  high, 
and  nine  feet  wide.  This  dome  is  formed  like  all  the  others  in 
the  Cave,  by  the  solvent  action  of  charged  water,  which,  in 
this  instance,  enters  from  a  fissure  in  the  top,  where  the  Pass 
of  El  Ghor  was  filled  with  water. 

The  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta,  was  pointed  out  to  us  next. 
It  is  situated  on  the  left  side  of  the  avenue,  and  is  fifteen  feet 
deep.  This  cavity  is  filled  with  loose  rock  and  mineral 
debris,  which  renders  it  extremely  difficult  to  effect  a  cross- 
ing. One  is  almost  sure  to  meet  with  a  fall  while  descending 
or  ascending.  There  were  many  laughable  incidents  that 
occured,  before  we  all  collected  on  the  other  side.  But,  as 
there  is  always  a  reward  for  toil,  we  found  ours,  in  the  sight 
of  Stella's  Dome,  just  beyond  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta. 

This  dome  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  Cave,  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  hight,  and  somewhat  resembling  Lucy's 
Dome,  in  its  general  features.  We  enjoyed  a  long  look  at 
this  wonderful  excavation,  and  then  proceeded  as  before. 

We  very  soon  stopped  before  the  Chimes,  consisting  of 
depending  rocks,    which,    when  struck,  emit  a  very  musical 


MARTHAS   VINEYARIJ.  173 

sound.      We  had  quite  a  little  concert  here  ;    altogether  im- 
promptu, but  causing  a  good  deal  of  merriment. 

In  a  few  moments  we  passed  Wellington's  Gallery,  but 
as  there  was  nothing  at  all  attractive  there,  we  passed  on  to 
Hebe's  Spring.  This  little  body  of  water  is  four  feet  in 
diameter,  and  one  and  a  half  feet  in  depth.  It  is  charged 
with  sulphureted  hydrogen,  but,  after  standing  undisturbed 
for  some  length  of  time,  there  is  a  layer  of  pure  water  that 
collects  near  the  surface.  It  is  supplied  with  sulphur  water 
from  below,  and  pure  water  from  above  ;  having  the  remark- 
able characteristic* of  a  double  source.  Eyless  Crawfish  have 
been  found  in  this  spring,  but  Frank  told  us  that  they  were 
never  caught  now. 

A  half  a  mile  beyond  Hebe's  Spring,  we  passed  Mystic 
River,  of  which  very  little  is  known,  as  its  name  implies. 

Ascending  a  flight  of  wooden  steps  twenty  feet  high,  we 
found  ourselves  in  Martha's  Vineyard.  At  first  we  were 
rather  surprised  to  find  the  vineyard  so  far  from  the  palace, 
but  soon  we  were  lost  in  admiration,  for  the  beautiful  sights 
about  us.  The  walls  and  ceiling  were  studded  with  stalactite 
nodules  of  carbonate  of  lime,  which  are  colored  and  tinted 
with  black  and  red  oxyd  of  iron,  which  in  size  and  appear- 
ance, exactly  resemble  natural  grapes.  The  similarity  is  so 
perfect,  that  it  was  next  to  impossible  for  us  not  to  believe 
ourselves  in  some  vast  grapery,  with  long,  luscious  bunches, 
hanging  in  gorgeous  profusion.  The  grapes  themselves 
seemed  just  ripe.  They  possessed  that  delicate  tinge,  which 
it  is  customary  to  notice  upon  fully  matured  foreign  grapes  ; 
and  the  vines  and  vinelets  were  in  perfect  keeping  with  the 
surroundings  ;  and  running  from  the  ceiling  to  the  floor,  was 
what  appeared  to  be  a  perfect  grapevine,  being  in  reality,  a 


1/4  A   ROMANTIC    MEAL. 

long  wall-Stalactite,  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  This 
completed  the  likeness.  A  large  stalagmite,  projecting  from 
the  right  wall  a  few  inches  from  the  floor,  is  termed  the 
Battering  Ram.  We  were  all  delighted  with  this  chamber, 
and  lingered  for  a  long  time,  feasting  upon  its  beauty  and 
loveliness. 

We  were  now  in  Elindo  Avenue,  which  is  twenty  feet 
over  the  pass  of  El  Ghor.  A  feeling  of  hunger  had  for  some 
time  past,  been  admonishing  us  that  we  should  stop  and 
lunch,  so  we  selected  a  beautiful  spot  about  a  half  mile  from 
Martha's  Vineyard,  and  prepared  dinner.  The  young  ladies 
were  now  right  in  their  element,  and  before  long  announced 
that  all  was  ready.  The  eatables  were  spread  out  upon  the 
surface  of  a  long,  flat  rock,  situated  only  a  few  rods  from 
Washington's  Hall,  in  which  room  the  other  party  were 
seated  at  dinner.  They  looked  very  picturesque,  when 
viewed  from  the  dark,  they  being  in  a  dazzle  of  light,  from 
the  many  lamps.  It  was  very  like  an  encampment  of  gyp- 
sies. The  ladies'  fanciful,  bright  colored  dresses,  and  the 
gentlemen's  odd  suits,  in  striking  contrast  ;  and  the  merry 
laughter  that  every  now  and  then  greeted  some  witty  remark, 
sounded  so  cherrily  as  it  echoed  through  the  desolate 
cavern. 

It  was  an  hour  or  more  before  we  were  again  in  line  ;  but 
we  all  felt  so  much  refreshed  by  our  rest,  that  we  were  fully 
prepared  to  enjoy  the  beauties  of  the  Snow-Ball  Room, 
which  is  about  half-way  between  Washington's  Hall  and 
Cleveland's  Cabinet.  Here  the  ceiling  and  walls  are  covered 
by  the  same  crystalline  gypsum  nodules,  that  adorned 
Martha's  Vineyard  ;  but  the  air  being  too  damp  for  the  gyp- 
sum to  assume  the  form  of  flowers  and  filaments,  their  resem- 
blance to  snow-balls  is  complete. 


THE   LAST   ROSE   OF   SUMMER.  I75 

After  leaving  Snow-Ball  Room,  we  entered  Cleveland's 
Cabinet.  This  avenue  is  one  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in 
length,  sixty  feet  wide,  and  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  in  hight. 
The  walls  and  ceiling  are  literally  lined  with  alabaster  flowers 
of  every  conceivable  variety,  and  indescribable  beauty  and 
delicacy  of  outline. 

The  first  point  of  interest  in  Cleveland's  Cabinet,  is 
Mary's  Bower,  which  is  fifteen  feet  in  hight,  and  forty  in 
length,  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  which  are  covered  with 
rosettes  of  gypsum. 

Next  we  came  to  the  Cross,  which  is  formed  by  the 
intersection  of  two  crevices  in  the  ceiling  at  right  angles, 
and  which  are  lined  with  flowers  of  Plaster  of  Paris.  It  is 
about  eight  feet  in  length.  This  was  much  admired  by  every- 
one. It  was  perfect  in  outline  and  presents  the  longer  axis 
to  first  view,  in  an  upright  position.  The  Mammary  Ceiling 
is  formed  of  nipple-shaped  projections  of  gypsum  ;  after  pass- 
ing which,  we  were  shown  the  Last  Rose  of  Summer.  It  is 
about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  and  is  of  snowy  whiteness. 
It  rests  against  the  ceiling  in  the  centre  of  the  avenue,  but 
we  would  have  passed  it  unnoticed,  had  not  Frank  stopped 
and  lit  his  magnesium  wire.  Some  thirty  yards  further  on, 
we  passed  the  Dining  Table.  This  immense  rock  is  fifteen 
feet  wide,  and  thirty  long. 

We  were  directed  a  few  minutes  after  leaving  the  Last 
Rose  of  Summer,  to  hold  our  lamps  in  an  alcove  in  the  wall, 
which  was  three  feet  in  hight,  and  five  fbet  in  length,  the 
whole  interior  of  which  was  lined  with  knob-like  projections 
of  carbonate  of  lime,  in  the  form  of  grapes.  This  crevice  is 
termed  Bacchus'  Glory. 

Frank  stopped    next   time    before    St.    Cecilia's    Grotto, 


1/6  UNDERGROUND   MOUNTAIN. 

which  is  a  picturesque  recess,  situated  in  the  wall  of  the 
avenue.  This  spot  is  noted  for  the  stucco  flowers,  that  adorn 
its  walls  ;  but  seeing  nothing  further  to  arrest  our  attention, 
we  proceeded  to  Diamond  Grotto,  which  is  named  on  account 
of  the  sparkling,  gem-like  crystals  of  selenite  that  covered 
the  ceiling.  It  shows  up  to  fine  effect  when  the  light  is 
moved  to  and  fro,  so  as  to  be  reflected  from  the  many  sides 
of  these  little  cubes. 

Charlotte's  Grotto  is  the  terminus  of  Cleveland's  Cabinet, 
and  is  remarkable  for  its  fine  collection  of  fibrous  gypsum, 
but  for  nothing  else.  This  avenue  is  named  in  honor  of  Prof- 
fesor  Cleveland,  the  distinguished  mineralogist. 

We  now  began  the  perilous  ascent  of  Rocky  Mountain, 
which  is  one  hundred  feet  high,  and  is  formed  entirely  of 
rocks  that  have  fallen  from  the  ceiling  above.  On  the  top, 
is  a  stalagmite,  two  feet  high,  and  six  inches  in  diameter, 
called  Cleopatra's  Needle.  We,  at  last,  after  much  hard 
climbing,  reached  the  summit  ;  only  to  look  down  with  dis- 
may into  a  frightful  gorge,  seventy  feet  deep,  and  one  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  that  is  termed,  and  appropriately,  the  Dismal 
Hollow. 

The  Cave  at  this  mountain,  divides  into  three  branches. 
That  to  the  right  leads  to  Sand-stone  Dome,  which  is 
interesting  from  the  fact  that  the  stone  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed, indicates  that  the  top  of  the  Dome  is  very  near  the 
surface  of  the  earth.  The  branch  to  the  left  communicates- 
with  Groghan's  Hall.  The  centre  one  is  called  Franklin's 
Avenue,  and  extends  from  Dismal  Hollow  to  Serena's  Arbor. 

Serena's  Arbor  is  rather  paradoxical  in  its  name,  for  in- 
stead of  being  an  inviting  place,  it  is  just  the  contrary,  most 
forbidding,  and   presents  a  wild  and  gloomy  appearance.     It 


THE    MAELSTROM.  I77 

is  about  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  forty  in  hight.  The 
walls  and  ceiling  are  covered  with  stalactite  cornices,  columns, 
grooves,  &c.,  many  of  which  are  semi-transparent  and 
sonorous.  We  hastened  through  this  cheerless  vault,  and,  in 
a  few  moments,  stood  in  Groghan's  Hall,  which  constitutes 
the  end  of  the  Long  Route,  and  is  about  seventy  feet  wide, 
and  twenty  feet  high. 

The  left  wall  is  covered  with  beautiful  and  variegated 
stalactite  formations,  which  excel  all  others  in  the  cave,  in 
extreme  hardness  and  singular  whiteness.  On  the  right,  we 
saw  a  yawning  pit,  which  Frank  told  us  was  the  Maelstrom. 
It  is  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  deep,  and  twenty 
wide.  There  are  avenues  leading  from  the  bottom  which  can 
be  plainly  seen  when  a  light  is  lowered  into  it.  They  have 
been  but  partially  explored  on  account  of  the  difficulty  in 
reaching  them,  from  the  fact  that  persons  are  obliged  to 
descend  by  means  of  ropes.  Cave  crickets  abound  in  this 
portion  of  the  cave  ;  also  cave  lizards  and  bats,  in  great  num- 
bers. A  peculiar  kind  of  rat  is  sometimes  found  in  Groghan's 
Hall ;  it  is  somewhat  larger  than  our  common  barn-rat,  and 
while  the  head  and  eyes  resemble  those  of  a  rabbit,  the  hair 
of  the  back  is  like  that  of  a  gray  squirrel.  This  abundance 
of  animal  life  is  taken,  by  scientific  men,  as  an  indication  that 
there  is  a  close  connection  between  the  cave  and  the  outer 
world,  at  this  point,  although  they  have  been  as  yet  unable 
to  discover  it. 

We  sat  down  upon  the  rocks,  to  enjoy  tlie  thought  of  the 
distance  we  had  overcome  since  we  saw  the  light,  and 
wonder  where  we  were  situated,  relatively  to  the  position  of 
the  hotel. 

We  had  then  reached  our  destination  for  the  day,  and 


178  A   SUBLIME   SCENE. 

derived  a  good  deal  of  pleasure  in  discussing  together,  the 
sights  we  had  seen  and  the  sounds  we  had  heard  since  enter- 
ing the  Cave.  We  had  traveled  for  nine  long  miles  over  the 
roughest  ground  imaginable,  and  felt  a  sort  of  pride  in  the 
consciousness  of  the  grand  results  of  our  labors  ;  but  these 
triumphant  reflections  were  suddenly  dissipated,  when  we 
remembered  that  we  were  obliged  to  return  over  the  same 
ground.  The  very  thought  itself  was  fatiguing,  so  we  banish- 
ed it  and  determined  to  enjoy  ourselves  to  the  fullest  extent 
while  there. 

The  view  down  the  Maelstrom  was  fearfully  grand,  and 
so  much  more  impressive  when  we  realized  that  this  terrible 
abyss  was  beneath  the  surface  of  the  earth. 

Having  rested  for  almost  a  half  hour  in  Groghan's  Hall, 
we  started  on  the  return.  I  will  not  enter  into  the  details  of 
our  homeward  journey,  but  only  touch  upon  one  or  two  scenes 
that  presented  themselves,  before  we  reached  the  mouth  of 
the  Cave. 

We  had  arrived  at  a  spot  about  a  hundred  yards  from 
Echo  River,  and  seated  ourselves  to  await  the  crossing  of  the 
other  party  whom  we  had  met  returning,  just  before  we  reach- 
ed the  end  of  the  Cave,  and  had  been  talking  gayly  for  some 
time,  when  Frank  who  had  gone  on  to  the  brow  of  a  little  em- 
inence that  commanded  a  view  of  the  water,  called  to  us  to 
join  him.  We  did  so  and  what  a  charming  view  we  beheld  as 
we  came  in  sight  of  the  landing.  There  were  the  ladies,  with 
their  bright  colored  dresses,  and  waving  plumes  ;  the  men 
with  their  oil-cloth  caps  and  long  staffs,  and  the  guides  lean- 
ing upon  their  oars.  The  whole  scene  was  lit  up  by  magnesium 
light  by  some  one  from  behind  an  immense  rock  that  lay  close 
by — so  that  the  full  stream  of  brilliancy  fell  upon  the  pictur- 


MUSIC   ON   ECHO   RIVER.  1/9 

esque  group.  This  strong  light  brought  out  the  wild  and 
rugged  surroundings  in  sharp  relief,  and  shone  full  upon  the 
calm  surface  of  the  water  that  formed  a  charming  back  ground 
to  this  impromptu  tableaux.  To  highten  the  effect  of  such  a 
scene,  there  suddenly  burst  from  the  entire  party  a  grand 
anthem  that  rung  through  the  lofty  cavern,  in  long  continued 
echoes,  which  only  contributed  with  their  dying  tones  to  the 
inspiring  beauty  of  the  music. 

After  finishing  this  chorus,  the  party  entered  the  boats 
and  glided  noiselessly  away,  down  the  river.  As  they  floated 
around  a  bend  in  the  stream,  which  shut  them  out  from  view, 
we  heard  the  soft,  sweet  tones  of  a  lady's  voice  that  came 
trembling  back  to  us  like  clear  flute-notes.  The  climax  was 
reached  when,  having  finished  the  verse,  there  swelled  up  a 
full  chorus  that  sounded  like  the  distant  strains  of  a  muffled 
spirit  choir. 

Long  after  the  singing  had  ceased,  we  sat  in  silence,  fear- 
ing to  break  the  charmed  spell  that  such  music  had  wrought 
upon  our  feelings.  But  I  feel  my  utter  inability  to  describe 
such  a  scene  and  such  music — it  is  impossible.  I  only  trust 
for  its  appreciation  to  your  imaginations  to  supply  the  de- 
ficiencies of  this  description. 

After  recrossing  Echo  River,  we  met  with  nothing  further 
of  comment,  until  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Cave,  which 
was  at  nine  thirty  P.  M. 

The  change  of  temperature  in  issuing  into  the  outer  at- 
mosphere was  so  great,  that  it  almost  suffocated  us.  It  caused 
me  to  experience  a  sensation  of  giddiness  and  oppression  that 
was  even  more  marked  as  I  imprudently  stepped  quickly  from 
one  to  the  other. 

A  thunder  storm  was  brewing  as  we  could  see    by  the 
w 


l80  ONCE  MORE  ABOVE  GROUND. 

vivid  flashes  of  lightning  that  streaked  the  sky,  so  we  hasten- 
ed up  to  the  hotel,  reaching  the  end  of  the  porch  just  as  the 
big  drops  began  to  descend. 

We  were  soon  seated  at  supper  discussing  the  many- 
wonderful  sights  we  had  seen  during  the  day. 

After  tea  we  adjourned  to  the  Ball  Room  and  enjoyed 
the  festivities  that  were  there  in  progress,  and  at  a  late  hour 
we  retired  to  rest  well  satisfied  with  the  labor  that  had  added 
such  an  interesting  page  to  our  life's  book  of  experience. 
We  had  that  day  seen  what  would  remain  with  us  during  all 
our^subsequent  life,  as  a  well-spring  of  pleasant  and  profita- 
ble retrospection,  as  well  as  a  new  theme  of  entertaining 
conversation. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

The  Short  or  Extra  Route. —  The  Giant  Group. —  The  Star 
Chamber. —  The  Greatest  Natural  Tunnel  in  the  World. — 
Chief  City. —  The  Labyrinth  and  Gorin's  Dome. — Entering 
Pensacola  Avenue. —  The  Great  Crossing. — The  Trip  to 
Mammoth  Dome. — Corinthian  Columns. — Roaring  River. 
The  New  Discovery. —  The  Gothic  A  rcade. 

It  was  not  long  before  our  fatigue  overcame  our  deter- 
mination of  talking  over  our  plans,  and  we  fell  into  a  sound 
sleep,  that  was  undisturbed  until  the  sun  shone  brightly  into 
the  room  through  the  shutters,  forming  many  colored  spots 
on  the  floor  and  opposite  wall. 

We  hastened  to  descend,  as  it  was  almost  time  to  start 
into  the  Cave  again,  for  we  had  determined  to  see  everything 
that  was  to  be  seen,  by  finishing  up,  with  the  Short  or  Extra 
Route. 

We  had  engaged  a  guide  named  Lee,  who  had  conducted 
us  through  White's  Cave,  to  accompany  us  upon  the  Short 
Route.  He  is  a  very  careful  and  trustworthy  cicerone,  and 
we  were  not  disappointed  in  our  expectations  of  his  being 
intelligent  and  communicative. 

We  ascertained  at  the  office,  upon  inquiry,  that  we  were 


l82  THE   GIANT    GROUP. 

the  only  persons  who  proposed  entering  the  Cave  that 
morning,  so  without  waiting  until  the  regular  time  of  starting, 
we  found  Lee  and  left  the  Hotel. 

After  leaving  the  mouth  of  the  Cave  we  passed  over  the 
same  ground  that  we  had  traversed  the  day  before,  until  we 
reached  the  Giant's  Coffin,  where,  instead  of  turning  into  the 
Deserted  Chambers  by  the  avenue  which  leads  under  the 
Coffin,  we  kept  the  main  Cave,  and  soon  after  passing  what 
is  called  the  Great  Bend  or  the  Acute  Angle,  at  which  point 
the  cavern  makes  a  sharp  turn  to  the  left,  the  greatest  curve 
in  its  whole  length,  we  observed  what  is  termed  the  Giants' 
Wife  and  Child. 

Here  we  noticed  a  group  of  figures  upon  the  ceiling, 
formed  of  black  gypsum  resting  on  a  white  back  ground  and 
representing  the  Giant  in  the  act  of  passing  the  Child  to  the 
Giantess.  The  two  larger  figures  are  in  a  sitting  position, 
and  remarkably  natural  in  outline. 

Still  further  on,  the  figure  of  a  colossal  Mammoth  is 
apparent,  and  which  is  also  situated  upon  the  ceiling.  The 
formation  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  giant  group. 

Next  we  passed  a  row  of  stone  cottages  on  the  left  of  the 
avenue,  which  were  inhabited  by  the  consumptives,  several 
years  ago.  These  houses  are  in  a  good  state  of  preservation, 
with  one  exception,  and  in  as  good  order  as  when  occupied. 
At  some  distance  beyond  the  last  house,  is  a  small,  stone 
building,  which  was  used  by  the  patients  as  a  dining  apart- 
ment, it  being  constructed  at  some  distance  in  order  to  afford 
them  the  benefit  of  the  walk. 

The  Star  Chamber  which  was  next  in  order,  we  ap- 
proached soon  after  leaving  the  Cottages.  It  is  sixty  feet  in 
hight,  seventy  in   width,    and    about  five    hundred  in  length. 


THE    STAR    CHAMBER.  183 

The  ceiling  is  composed  of  black  gypsum,  and  is  studded  with 
innumerable  white  points,  which  by  dim  light,  present  a  most 
striking  resemblance  to  stars.  These  points  or  stars  are 
produced,  in  part,  by  an  efflorescence  of  sulphate  of  sodium, 
or  Glauber's  salt,  beneath  the  black  gypsum,  which  causes  it 
to  scale  off  and,  in  part,  by  there  having  been  numbers  of 
stones  thrown  against  it,  by  which  it  is  detached  from  the 
white  limestone.  In  the  far  extremity  of  the  Chamber,  a 
large  mass  of  it  has  been  separated,  and  by  this  means  a  white 
surface  has  become  exposed,  forming  what  is  termed  the 
Comet.  You  can  perceive  the  nucleus  or  head,  and  the  tail 
of  the  comet  which  is  perhaps  the  most  wonderfully  natural 
feature  of  the  whole  Cave.  When  our  guide  took  the  lamps 
and  descended  behifid  the  ledge  of  rocks,  by  which  a  cloud  is 
made  to  pass  slowly  across  the  ceiling,  it  was  difficult  for  us 
to  divest  ourselves  of  the  impression,  that  a  fearful  tempest 
was  fast  approaching.  It  only  needed  the  flash  of  lightning, 
and  the  sullen  roar  of  thunder,  to  make  the  delusion  complete. 

After  producing  the  storm  cloud,  Lee  disappeared  en- 
tirely with  the  lamps,  through  a  lower  archway,  several 
hundred  feet  in  length,  leaving  us  in  total  darkness.  After 
some  time,  he  reappeared  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
Star  Chamber  holding  the  lights  in  advance,  which,  as  he 
slowly  elevated  them  from  the  cavern  from  which  he  rose, 
produced  the  illusion  of  the  rising  sun.  We  could  fancy 
ourselves  seated  upon  the  edge  of  some  dense  forest,  watching 
the  first  beams  of  the  rising  orb  as  he  peeped  over  the  eas- 
tern horizon,  as  we  heard  the  crowing  of  the  cock,  the 
barking  of  dogs,  and  the  morning  notes  of  the  lark,  which 
came  in  perfect  accord  from  the  guide.  The  Star  Chamber 
is  perhaps,  next  to  Echo  River,  the  most  attractive  object  in 
the  Cave. 


l84  THE   GREAT    TUNNEL. 

Beyond  it,  is  the  Floating  Cloud  Room,  which  is  the 
same  size  as  the  Star  Chamber,  and  the  Clouds  being  pro- 
duced by  the  scaling  off  of  the  black  gypsum  from  the  sulphate 
of  soda  beneath.  They  appeared  to  be  floating  from  the  Star 
Chamber  toward  the  Chief  City. 

However,  before  reaching  the  latter,  one  enters  Procter's 
Arcade.  This  the  most  magnificent  natural  tunnel  in  the 
world,  being  one  hundred  feet  in  width,  forty-five  in  hight, 
and  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length.  The  ceiling  is  smooth 
and  walls  vertical,  looking  as  though  they  had  been  chiseled 
out  of  the  solid  rock. 

When  the  tunnel  is  illuminated  by  magnesium  light,  the 
view  at  Kinney's  arena  is  magnificent  beyond  description. 
This  Arcade  is  named  in  honor  of  Mr.  L.  J.  Proctor,  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  Cave.  Kinney's  Arena  is  one  hundred  feet 
in  diameter,  and  fifty  feet  in  hight.  From  the  ceiling  in 
the  centre  of  the  Arena,  there  projects  a  stick,  three  feet  in 
length  and  two  inches  in  diameter,  which  rests,  parallel  with 
the  ceiling,  and  is  inserted  into  a  crevice  in  the  rock.  How  it 
was  placed  there,  is  a  question  which  hitherto,  it  has  been  im- 
possible to  answer,  inasmuch  as  it  could  not  have  been  forced 
into  the  position  it  now  occupies  by  any  artificial  means. 

After  passing  "S"  Bend,  which  has  no  particular  points 
of  attraction,  we  entered  Wright's  Rotunda.  This  rotunda  is 
four  hundred  feet  in  its  shortest  diameter.  The  ceiling  is 
from  ten  to  forty  five  feet  in  hight,  and  is  perfectly  level,  the 
apparent  difference  in  hight  being  produced  by  the  irregularity 
of  the  floor.  It  is  astonishing  that  this  ceiling  possesses 
strength  sufficient  to  sustain  itself,  for  it  is  not  more  than 
fifty  feet  from  the  surface  of  the  earth.  Fortunately,  the 
Cave  at  this  point,  is  perfectly  dry,  and    no  change   of  any 


THE  CHIEF    CITY.  185 

kind  is  transpiring  in  it  ;  otherwise,  there  might  be  some  risk 
of  its  falling  in  ;  as  evidences  of  such  occurences  are  to  be 
found  in  the  surrounding  country. 

When  this  immense  area  is  illuminated  at  the  two  ex- 
tremities, simultaneously,  it  presents  a  most  magnificent 
appearance.  At  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Rotunda  is  a 
column,  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  extending  from  the  floor 
to  the  ceiling,  named  Nicholas'  Monument,  after  one  of  the 
old  guides. 

The  Fox  Avenue,  communicates  with  the  Rotunda  and 
S.  Bend.  It  is  about  five  hundred  yards  in  length,  and  worth 
exploring. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Wright's  Rotunda,  the  Main 
Cave  sends  off  several  avenues  or  branches.  That  to  the  left, 
leads  to  Black  Chamber,  which  is  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wide  and  twenty  in  hight,  the  walls  and  ceiling  of  which  are 
incrusted  with  black. gypsum.  It  is  the  most  gloomy  room 
in  the  Cave. 

There  are  two  avenues  leading  off  to  the  right.  The  far 
one  communicates  with  Fairy  Grotto,  which  contains  a  most 
wonderful  collection  of  stalagmites.  It  is  a  mile  in  length. 
The  other  avenue  communicates  with  Solitary  Cave,  at  the 
entrance  to  which,  is  a  beautiful  little  cascade. 

Next  comes  the  Chief  City,  which  is  situated  in  the  Main 
Cave  beyond  the  Rocky  Pass.  It  is  about  two  hundred  feet 
in  diameter,  and  forty  in  hight,  and  the  floor  is  covered  at 
different  points,  with  piles  of  rock,  which  present  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  city.  From  Chief  City 
to  the  end  of  Main  Cave,  a  distance  of  three  miles,  there  are 
several  points,  at  which,  the  appearance  which  this  avenue 
presents   when  filled  with  running  water,  may  be  observed, 


1 86  THE   LABYRINTH    AND   GORIN'S   DOME. 

and  where  the  overhanging  cliffs,  closely  resemble  those  in 
the  Pass  of  El  Ghor  of  recent  formation.  The  Main  Cave  is 
terminated  abruptly  by  rocks  that  have  fallen  from  above.  It 
must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that  this  is  the  end  of  it,  for 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  was  closed  in  the  same  manner 
as  Dickson's  Cave  was  terminated,  and  that  the  removal  of 
the  obstructing  rock,  would  open  a  communication  with  a 
cave  of  the  same  size  as  the  one  I  have  been  attempting  to 
describe. 

Having  now  seen  everything  of  interest  this  side  of  the 
Main  Cave,  we  returned  to  the  Giant's  Coffin,  and,  from  thence 
followed  yesterdays  path,  until  we  reached  the  Deserted 
Chambers.  From  these,  we  entered  the  Labyrinth  by  des- 
cending a  pair  of  wooden  steps,  some  seven  feet  in  hight.  It 
is  a  narrow,  rugged  causeway,  and  the  only  object  of  interest 
is  the  figure  of  the  American  Eagle  on  the  left  wall  a  short 
distance  from  the  terminus. 

Leaving  this  winding  passage,  we  passed  over  a  Fmall 
bridge  and,  ascending  a  ladder  ten  feet  high,  were  in  Gorin's 
Dome.  It  is  viewed  from  a  natural  window  situated  about 
half  way  between  the  floor  and  ceiling  of  the  Dome,  and  it  is 
about  two  hundred  feet  in  hight,  and  sixty  feet  across  its 
widest  part.  The  far  side  presents  a  striking  resemblance  to 
an  immense  curtain,  which,  in  one  long  sweep,  has  its  first 
fold  about  forty  feet  from  the  bottom.  This  Dome  was  form- 
ed in  the  same  manner  as  the  Side-Saddle  Pit.  When. the  far 
end  was  illuminated  with  magnesium  light  by  the  guide,  who 
reached  an  elevated  point  on  the  side,  by  passing  through  a 
small  avenue  to  the  right,  the  view  was  terribly  sublime. 
We  could  plainly  distinguish  several  avenues  that  communi- 
cated with  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  Dome,  and  could  see  the 


PENSACOLA   AVENUE.  187 

masses  of  jagged  rocks,  that  formed  the  rim  of  a  frightful  pit 
in  the  floor  below.  This  was  the  grandest  dome  we  had  yet 
seen,  and  we  sat  long  in  the  Natural  Window  and  studied 
this  wonderful  freak  of  nature,  while  Lee  threw  lighted  scraps 
of  paper  into  the  abyss.  We  could  hear  the  gurgle  of  water 
issuing  from  the  darkness,  and  feel  the  cold  spray  that  damp- 
ened our  faces. 

At  length,  having  taken  our  farewell  look  at  Gorin's 
Dome,  we  started  back  to  the  Deserted  Chambers.  From 
there,  passing  through  the  Wooden  Bowl  Cave  and  Martha's 
Palace,  past  the  Side-Saddle  Pit  and  Minerva's  Dome,  and  the 
Bottomless  Pit  and  Shelby's  Dome,  we  reached  Reveler's 
Hall,  which  we  constituted  the  objective  point  for  another 
side  trip. 

Entering  a  small  opening  in  the  right  wall,  we  soon  found 
ourselves  in  Pensacola  Avenue  which  is  a  mile  in  length,  from 
eight  to  sixty  feet  in  hight  and  from  thirty  to  one  hundred 
feet  in  width. 

The  Sea  Turtle  was  the  first  thing  that  struck  our  atten- 
tion. It  is  merely  a  huge  mass  of  rock,  shaped  in  the  above 
form  and  thirty  feet  in  diameter.  It  has  long  since  become 
detached  from  the  ceiling  and  now  lies  almost  flat  upon  the 
floor  of  the  Avenue. 

It  was  not  long  after  leaving  the  Sea  Turtle  before  we 
entered  the  Wild  Hall,  which  in  size  and  appearance  resem- 
bles Bandit's  Hall. 

Bunyan's  Way,  which  communicates  with  Great  Relief, 
enters  Pensacola  Avenue  at  this  point. 

Snow-Ball  Archway  received  our  attention,  when,  a  few 
moments  afterward,  we  stopped  a  dozen  rods  further  on. 
X 


l88  THE  GREAT    CROSSING. 

It  receives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  ceiling  is  cov- 
ered with  little  nodules  of  gypsum  like  those  in  the  Snow- 
Ball  Room. 

Walking  on,  we  came  suddenly  upon  the  Great  Crossing 
which  is  a  point  at  which  four  avenues  take  their  origin.  The 
first  set  communicate  at  an  elevation. which'is  eight  feet  be- 
low the  plane  of  the  other  two,  thus  forming  a  natural  gulch, 
which  is  crossed  by  means  of  steps,  which  are  cut  out  of  either 
wall. 

Leaving  the  Great  Crossing,  we  entered  Mat's  Arcade. 
This  avenue  is  fifty  yards  in  length,  thirty  feet  in  width  and 
sixty  feet  in  hight.  Between  the  floor  and  the  ceiling,  there 
are  four  beautiful  terraces  which  extend  the  full  length  of  the 
arcade  ;  there  being  also  a  splendid  collection  of  exquisite 
stalactites  termed  the  Pine-Apple  Bush,  in  this  remarkable 
passage. 

We  came  now  to  Angelico  Grotto,  the  ceiling  and  walls 
of  which,  are  incrusted  with  crystals  of  carbonate  of  lime. 
Beyond  this  grotto  at  the  distance  of  about  half  a  mile,Pen- 
sacola  Avenue  terminates  in  a  low  archway. 

Retracing  our  steps  to  Reveler's  Hall,  we  had  only  to 
pass  down  the  Scotchman's  Trap,  squeeze  through  the  Fat 
Man's  Misery,  and  traverse  Great  Relief,  when  we  entered 
River  Hall,  from  which  Chamber,  Spark's  Avenue  extends 
to  the  Mammoth  Dome  which  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
distant. 

After  entering  this  Avenue,  we  had  but  a  short  walk, 
before  reaching  Bandit's  Hall.  It  is  sixty  feet  in  length,  and 
forty  feet  in  width,  the  floor  of  which  is  covered  with  large 
rocks  that  have  tumbled  from  above. 

To  the  right  of  Bandit's  Hall,  there  is  a   side  cavern  of 


SYLVAN    AVENUE.  1 89 

great  extent  called  Brigg's  Avenue,  but  which  has  never  been 
fully  explored  and  is  never  visited. 

Passing  on  we  came  to  Newman's  Spine,  which  is  about 
ten  feet  in  length  and  consists  of  a  crevice  in  the  ceiling 
which  is  the  exact  image  of  a  gigantic  back-bone.  The  trav- 
eling in  this  portion  of  the  Cave  is  very  difficult.  We  were 
obliged  to  crawl  on  our  hands  and  knees  in  some  places,  and 
at  others,  to  lift  ourselves  bodily  over  an  impassable  boulder, 
or  press  through  a  crevice  only  half  large  enough  to  admit  of 
the  passage  of  a  man's  body. 

Having  accomplished,  with  much  difficulty,  the  entrance 
into  Sylvan  Avenue,  we  sat  down  to  rest  our  weary  limbs. 
Our  good  humored  guide  here  entertained  us  with  character- 
istic yarns  and  amusing  incidents  until  we  forgot  our  fatigue 
in  the  enjoyment  of  his  well-told  narratives. 

Suddenly  recollecting,  however,  that  we  had  yet  some 
distance  to  go  before  reaching  the  Mammoth  Dome,  we  has- 
tened forward. 

Sylvan  Avenue  extends  from  Spark's  Avenue  to  Claris- 
sa's Dome  and  is  about  three  hundred  yards  in  length,  con- 
taining a  number  of  ferruginous,  limestone  logs,  which  vary 
from  five  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter.  Some  of  them 
appear  to  be  chopped  in  half,  while  others  have  lost  a  portion 
of  their  bark,  displaying  a  white  surface  of  petrous  wood  ; 
and  others  again  look  as  though  they  were  in  a  state  of  ap- 
parent decay.  Anywhere  else,  these  masses  of  stone  would 
be  mistaken  for  petrified  wood. 

Clarissa's  Dome  is  entered  at  its  base  and  possesses  no 
very  special  points  of  interest,  except  its  general  beauty.  It 
resembles  Gorin's  Dome,  but  is  much  smaller. 


190  MAMMOTH   DOME. 

After  passing  Bennett's  Point  and  Bishop's  Gorge,  a  low 
and  dangerous  passage,  we  found  ourselves  standing  upon  a 
terrace  which  was  in  the  wall,  but  at  least  forty  feet  from  the 
base  of  Mammoth  Dome.  This  dome  constitutes  one  of  the 
principal  attractions  of  the  Cave.  It  is  two  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  hight,  and  in  appearance,  closely  resembles 
Gorin's  Dome  ;  however,  it  is  more  than  fi%^e  times  as 
large.  At  the  left,  at  a  distance  of  about  fifty  yards, 
there  are  five  large  pillars,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock 
by  water,  and  which  are  called  the  Corinthian  Columns. 
Each  column  is  about  the  size  of  an  ordinary  house,  but  in 
contrast  with  the  Dome,  they  appear  of  rather  meager  dimen- 
sions. The  awful  sublimity  of  the  Dome  when  strongly  illu- 
minated by  the  Bengal  light,  exceeds  any  thing  ever  pictured 
to  a  mind  jiot  frenzied  by  insanity.  It  was  fearful  !  Imagine, 
under  ground,  a  wild,  rugged  chasm,  gaping  far  upward  until 
hid  from  view  by  the  white,  feathery  mist  arising  from  the 
gushing  stream,  flowing  along  its  rocky  bed  at  its  base. 
Think  of  a  dome  in  a  cave,  half  again  as  high  as  Grace  Church 
spire  !  This  was  by  far  the  sublimest  sight  we  had  yet 
witnessed.  After  gazing  about  us  in  mute  wonder  and  awe, 
for  some  moments,  we  followed  the  directions  of  our  guide, 
and  descended  by  a.  slippery  and  dilapidated  ladder,  to  the 
next  terrace  below,  which  we  crossed  with  difficulty  and  as- 
cended the  steep,  slimy  rocks  that  formed  the  right  wall  of 
the  abyss,  until  we  had  attained  an  altitude  not  much  less  than 
that  of  the  top  of  the  Dome.  Passing  onward,  winding  about 
among  the  wet  rocks  and  more  treacherous  mud,  we  at  last 
gained  a  position  directly  at  the  base  of  the  Corinthian 
Columns,  where  we  commanded  a  fine  view  of  the  whole  Dome 
that  lay  immediately  before  us.  Lee  produced  his  magnesium 
wire  and  illumined  the  farthest  niches  and  recesses  of  this  awful 


ROARING   RIVER.  I9I 

cavern.  Never  have  I  seen  such  grandeur  above  or  beneath 
the  ground.  It  merits  to  be  ranked  among  the  wonders  of 
the  world — to  be  placed  by  the  side  of  Niagara  Falls,  the 
Yosemite  Valley  and  Grey's  Peak  in  point  of  awe-inspiring 
grandeur  and  wild  beauty. 

The  Mammoth  Dome  is  still  enlarging  under  the  influence 
of  water,  nature's  great  chisel,  which,  as  it  courses  down  the 
smooth  walls,  is  forever  cutting,  cutting,  cutting,  and  simply 
by  its  solvent  action  upon  the  rocks,  in  virtue  of  the  carbonic 
acid  which  it  holds  in  solution. 

Retracing  our  steps,  we  ascended  the  rickety  ladder  and 
re-entered  Spark's  Avenue,  which  led  us  back  to  River  Hall. 

The  Avenue  which  comunicates  with  Roaring  River,  is 
entered  from  Cascade  Hall  in  Silliman's  Avenue,  and  is  a 
half  a  mile  in  length.  Roaring  River  resembles  Echo  River 
in  size  and  appearance,  but  has  a  much  louder  echo.  There 
is  a  cascade  which  falls  into  it,  which  produces  the  roaring 
sounds  and  from  which,  it  has  received  its  name.  Eyeless 
fish  and  crawfish  are  found  in  Roaring  River,  also  a  few 
sunfish  and  black  crawfish,  but  the  difficulty  of  reaching  it,  is 
so  great,  that  visitors  seldom  attempt  the  trip. 

Marion's  Avenue  is  about  one  and  a  half  miles  long  and 
arises  in  Washington's  Hall.  It  varies  from  twenty  to  sixty 
feet  in  width  and  from  eight  to  forty  in  hight.  The  floor  is 
covered,  the  whole  distance  with  sand  ;  and  the  walls  are 
composed  of  white  limestone  which  resembles  cumulus  clouds. 
At  the  farther  end,  the  Avenue  divides  into  two  branches  ; 
that  to  the  right  leading  to  Paradise  and  Portia's  Parterre, 
and  that  to  the  left,  to  Zoe's  Grotto. 

The  walls  and  ceiling  of  Paradise  Avenue,  are  covered 


192  GOTHIC    AVENUE. 

with  gypsum  flowers,  and  there  is  a  dome  about  half  way  be- 
tween its  extremities,  called  Digby's  Dome. 

Portia's  Parterre  is  entered  from  the  left  wall  of  Paradise 
Avenue.  It  is  a  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  contains  the  same 
kind  of  flowers  that  are  found  in  Cleveland's  Cabinet.  As  it 
was  only  discovered  about  two  years  ago,  it  is  generally 
termed  the  New  Discovery. 

We  now  started  b^ck  upon  our  last  and  best  underground 
e;xcursion.  We  were  obliged  to  walk  for  almost  an  hour,  to 
reach  the  Main  Cave  again,  which  having  done  by  a  low  and 
narrow  archway  that  opened  into  the  right  wall  on  the  same 
plane  with  the  floor,  we  followed  it  for  some  distance,  until 
we  came  to  a  flight  of  wooden  steps,  leading  up  to  the  mouth 
of  a  side  avenue  situated  some  distance  from  the  floor  at  this 
point.  Ascending  these,  we  entered  the  Gothic  Arcade, 
which  is  the  most  interesting  avenue  in  the  whole  of  Mam- 
moth Cave. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

A  Curious  Mummy. —  The  First  Echo. — Register  Room, — 
*'  Where  there  s  a  Will,  there  s  a  Way." — A  Love  Story 
founded  on  Fact. —  Vulcan  s  Smithy  and  Napoleon's  Breast- 
works.—  The  Lover s  Leap. — Lake  Purity. — Adieu  to  the 
Mammoth  Cave. — Once  More  in  Louisville. —  The  Queen  City 
of  the  West. — A  Cincinnati  Park. — An  Odd  Tight  Rope 
Performance. —  The  Ride  over  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio. 
Alone. —  The  Last  Adventure. — Home  at  Last. 

The  first  point  of  note  was  the  "Seat  of  the  Mummy", 
which  consists  of  a  niche  in  the  left  wall,  about  forty  yards 
from  the  steps,  and  just  large  enough  for  a  human  being  to 
sit  in. 

The  body  found  in  this  niche  was  that  of  an  Indian 
woman,  dressed  in  the  skins  of  wild  animals,  and  ornamented 
with  the  trinkets  usually  worn  by  the  aborigines.  A  few  feet 
distant,  the  body  of  an  Indian  child,  attired  in  precisely  the 
same  manner,  was  discovered,  in  a  sitting  posture,  and  rest- 
ing against  the  wall.  They  were  both  in  a  state  of  perfect 
preservation,  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  they  wandered 
into  this  avenue,  and  becoming  bewildered,  as  any  one, 
inexperienced  in  the  direction  of  the  different  passages  would 


194  REGISTER   ROOM. 

have  done,  sat  down  and    died  in    the    position  in  which  they 
were  found. 

A  short  distance  beyond  the  seat  of  the  mummy,  we 
passed  a  large  stalactite  which  extends  from  the  floor  to  the 
ceiling,  and  is  called  the  Post  Oak,  from  its  resemblance  to 
a  variety  of  the  oak  tree  that  grows  near  the  Cave. 

The  First  Echo  which  we  next  approached,  is  the  name 
given  to  that  part  of  the  Gothic  Arcade  which  passes  over 
Pensacola  Avenue,  the  floor  of  which  when  forcibly  struck,  as 
with  our  walking  staffs,  emits  a  hollow  sound.  It  does  not 
appear  to  be  more  than  a  few  inches  in  thickness  and  it  is 
remarkable  for  possessing  sufficient  rigidity  to  sustain  its  own 
enormous  weight. 

Walking  on  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  we  entered  the  Regis- 
ter Room,  which  is  about  three  hundred  feet  in  length,  forty 
in  width,  and  from  eight  to  sixteen  feet  in  hight.  The  ceil- 
ing is  white  and  as  smooth  as  though  it  had  been  plastered. 
In  this  room,  hundreds  of  persons  have  displayed  their  utter 
bankruptcy  in  every  thing  pertaining  to  good  breeding  and 
taste  by  tracing  their  obscure  names  upon  the  ceiling  with 
black  candle  smoke.  It  presents  a  most  singular  appearance 
when  first  entered.  You  see  curious  caricatures  and  hundreds 
of  names  in  all  imaginable  positions  and  styles  of  lettering, 
and  often,  here  and  there,  a  neat  and  well  executed  monogram, 
bearing  evidence  of  the  possession  of  superior  skill,  if  not 
talent,  by  its  designer. 

After  leaving  the  Register  Room,  we  soon  entered  the 
Gothic  Chapel.  This  is  the  most  interesting  room  in  the  Cave 
from  the  fact  that  it  is  so  closely  connected  with  a  most 
romantic  life-scene  in  the  history  of  two  young  persons. 

About  two  years  ago  there  lived  a  family,  which  until  the 


A  LOVE  STORY  FOUNDED  ON  FACT.         I95 

time  of  which  I  write,  had  remained  an  unbroken  circle  with 
nothing  to  disturb  the  blissful  serenity  of  their  home  life  ;  but, 
as  misfortunes  never  come  singly,  the  old  adage  was,  in  this  in- 
stance, verified  by  the  sudden  illness  and  death  of  the  head 
of  the  family,  followed  very  soon  after,  by  the  decease  of  his 
cherished  wife. 

For  some  time  previous  to  the  occurrence  of  these  sad 
events,  there  had  been  two  suitors  for  the  hand  of  Elinor,  the 
eldest  daughter.  They  had  vied  with  each  other  in  their  un- 
ceasing attentions,  while  each  had  flattered  himself  that  he 
was  receiving  the  greater  share  of  favor  from  his  fair  mistress  ; 
but,  as  we  shall  see,  she  smiled  upon  one  with  her  face  and  upon 
the  other  with  her  heart.  One  of  these  young  men,  named 
George,  was  the  son  of  very  wealthy  parents,  who,  upon  his 
attaining  his  majority,  had  given  him  his  portion  of  their  estate, 
and  it  was  no  meagre  one,  as  he  was  the  only  child.  He 
possessed  every  luxury  that  the  imagination  could  devise  or 
the  lips  command,  consequently,  was  vain  of  his  wealth  and 
constant  in  his  attendance  at  the  gaming  table.  Notwith- 
standing these  faults,  he  was  extremely  handsome  and  pos- 
sessed of  a  good  deal  of  genuis,  quite  a  beau  among  the  ladies 
and  a  devotee  to  their  society.  He  escorted  them  to  all 
places  of  amusement,  had  them  to  drive  with  him  in  his  hand- 
some carriage,  and  behind  his  latest  *  pair,'  and  passed  five 
nights  out  of  every  week  at  parties  &c.  He  was  what  might 
have  been  termed  "  a  good-looking  city  fop." 

Frank,  Elinor's  other  admirer,  was  a  steady,  industrious 
young  man,  who,  with  his  father's  assistance  had  just  opened 
a  small  business  on  his  own  account.  He  was  prospering 
by  his  continued  and  untiring  labor.  He  was  the  possessor 
of  a  noble  countenance,  a  generous  heart  and  a  graceful,  win- 
ning address.  He  was  vastly  superior  to  his  wealthy,  but  in- 
Y 


196  THE   LOVE  STORY. 

digent  rival,  in  point  of  physical  development,  being  finely 
formed  and  bearing  himself  with  a  dignified  and  manly  carri- 
age. Elinor,  although,  in  her  heart,  she  appreciated  his  many 
virtues  and  inobstrusive  attachment  which  had  already  won 
her  love,  had  not  dared  to  discard  his  rival  for  fear  of  wound- 
ing her  kind  and  indulgent  parents  whose  wish  it  was,  to 
secure  for  her  wealth  and  position  by  an  alliance  with  him. 

It  had  been  six  weeks  since  her  father  died  and  now  her 
mother  lay  upon  her  death-bed.  Before  expiring,  she  extort- 
ed a  promise  from  her  daughter  never  to  marry  Frank  "  any 
where  upon  the  surface  of  the  green  earth."  After  the  funeral 
had  taken  place,  she  retired  to  a  country  town  in  Ohio,  with 
a  hope  of  recovering  from  the  shock  occasioned  by  her  sudden 
bereavement. 

Not  many  weeks  passed,  before  George  came  ;  and,  see- 
ing in  what  a  desolate  and  lonely  position  she  was  placed, 
offered  her  a  home,  and  wealth  beyond  her  most  extravagant 
conceptions.  Like  a  true-spirited  girl,  she  refused  his  kind- 
ness prompted  by  pity  for  her  misfortunes,  and  remained  in 
entire  seclusion. 

In  another  month,  however,  Frank,  whose  delicate  and 
sympathetic  letters  she  had  enjoyed  so  much  since  her 
mother's  death,  came  to  the  village  in  which  she  was  living, 
and  told  her  the  old,  old  story,  of  his  undying  affection,  and 
the  long-hoped-for  happiness  of  calling  her  his  own.  With- 
out hesitating,  she  confessed  *  frankly',  her  long  attachment, 
and  the  inexpressible  joy  of  this  unexpected  moment. 

Elinor,  in  the  secrets  of  her  own  heart,  had  formed  a 
plan  to  avoid,  and  yet  comply  with,  her  promise  to  her 
mother  ;  and  it  was  nothing  more  than  to  be  married  under- 
ground !     So,  now   that  every  obstacle  was  removed,  which 


SOLEMN  CEREMONY.  I97 

could  deter  her  from  executing  this  plan,  she  collected  all  her 
valuables,  and  started  in  company  with  Frank,  for  the  Mam- 
moth Cave.  Upon  their  arrival,  they  proceeded  at  once  to 
the  house  of  the  resident  minister,  and  engaged  his  services 
for  the  morrow.  The  guides  learning  of  the  event  that  was 
to  take  place,  and  hearing  it  rumored  about  the  hotel  that  the 
ceremony  was  to  be  performed  in  the  Gothic  Chapel,  illumi- 
nated the  room  by  hanging  lamps,  and  impromptu  chan- 
deliers, all  around  the  walls,  and  from  the  ceiling  of  the 
Chapel.  The  bride  elect  was  unconscious  of  all  these  pre- 
parations, so  that  when  the  little  procession,  with  the 
minister  at  its  head,  wound  around  the  last  sharp  bend  in  the 
avenue,  they  were  welcomed  by  a  dazzle  of  light  from 
torches  and  lamps,  and  a  wedding  march,  executed  with  fine 
effect  by  the  band  from  the  hotel. 

There  is  a  picturesque,  natural  pulpit  formed  by  the 
union  of  stalactites  and  stalagmites,  that  occupies  the  most 
prominent  position  in  the  chamber,  being  just  in  the  center 
of  the  smooth  floor.  Here  the  minister  stood,  when  he  pro- 
nounced them  *  man  and  wife.' 

The  guides  who  were  present  at  the  ceremony,  say  that 
it  was  the  most  affecting  and  solemn  scene  they  had  ever 
witnessed.  The  novelty  and  romance  of  the  surroundings, 
were  such  as  to  make  the  reminiscence  of  this  occasion,  one 
of  a  life-time.  The  bride  and  groom  stood  a  few  feet  in  front 
of  the  natural  stone  alter,  with  heads  reverently  bowed,  until 
the  wedding  ring  was  placed  upon  the  bride's  finger,  when  the 
groom,  bending  over  that  fragile  form,  imprinted  a  warm  kiss 
upon  the  upturned  lips.  At  this  moment  there  arose  a 
jubilant  shout  from  those  who  had  been  the  silent  spectators 
of  this  impressive  scene,  and  the  band  struck  up  an  inspiriting 
air,  that  echoed  strangely  along  the  vaulted  ceiling  of  the 
Chapel. 


198  VULCAN'S   SMITHY. 

After  receiving  the  congratulations  of  their  new-made 
friends,  the  happy  pair  left  the  Cave  followed  by  a  noisy  crowd 
of  people  who  would  praise,  too  loudly,  the  modesty  of  the 
bride  and  the  manliness  of  the  groom.  We  noticed  where  the 
ceiling  had  been  blackened  by  the  smoke  from  the  lamps  that 
had  been  suspended  from  it. 

After  leaving  the  Gothic  Chapel,  we  entered  Vulcan's 
Smithy.  This  is  a  room,  the  floor  of  which  is  strewn  with 
stalagmite  nodules,  which  are  covered  with  the  black  oxyd  of 
iron,  which  resembles  the  cinders  of  a  blacksmith's  shop. 

As  there  was  nothing  else  remarkable  about  this  apart- 
ment we  passed  on  to  Napoleon's  Breastworks,  which  consist 
of  a  ledge  of  rocks  that  have  been  detached  from  the  side  of 
the  avenue  against  which  they  now  rest.  From  the  front, 
they  appear  to  be  a  gradual  rise  in  the  floor,  terminatiug 
abruptly  in  a  perpendicular  descent,  which  forms  a  sort  of 
natural  rifle-pit  behind. 

Next,  we  came  to  the  Arm  Chair,  which  is  a  very  com- 
fortable and  unique  looking  seat,  formed  by  the  union  of 
stalactites  with  stalagmites.  Nothing  could  be  more  natural 
than  the  symmetrical  projections  upon  either  side,  that  answer- 
ed for  arms  ;  and  nothing  more  suited  to  the  graceful  inclina- 
tion of  the  head,  than  the  bowl-like  hollow  that  offered  it  a 
convenient  resting  place. 

We  were  now  not  far  from  the  end  of  our  journey,  so  we 
did  not  remain  here  long,  to  attest  the  merits  of  the  Chair, 
but  hastened  on,  past  the  Elephant's  Head  which  is  a  large 
stalagmite  bearing  the  above  form,  which  projects  from  the 
left  wall  of  the  avenue,  and  descended  a  very  steep  and  rug- 
ged hill  that  led  us  down  into  the  pit  beneath  the  Lover's 
Leap.     The  Lover's  Leap  consists  of  a  long  sharp  rock  that 


LAKE   PURITY.  I99 

juts  out  from  the  floor  of  the  cavern,  sixteen  feet  over  a  pit 
seventy  feet  deep.  It  is  a  very  curious  circumstance  that  this 
rock  should  occupy  such  a  position,  but  the  name  given  to  it 
is  so  appropriate  that  one  almost  forgets  to  notice  its  unique- 
ness in  the  thought  of  the  romance  connected  with  it. 

Elbow  Crevice  was  next  in  order.  This  passage  is  five 
feet  in  hight,  from  three  to  five  in  width  and  twenty  feet  in 
length.     It  is  another  Fat  Man's  misery  upon  a  large  scale. 

After  some  severe  climbing,  we  reached  Gatewood's  Din- 
ing Table,  which  is  a  flat  rock  that  has  been  detached  from 
the  ceiling.  It  is  about  twelve  feet  in  length,  and  eight  in 
width  and  is  named  after  one  of  the  old  saltpetre  miners. 

One  look  was  sufficient,  at  such  a  common  place  object  as 
a  rock,  so  we  passed  on  for  some  twenty  yards,  when  we  stood 
beneath  Napoleon's  Dome.  This  Dome  is  fifty  feet  high  and 
from  twenty  to  thirty  feet  wide.  It  was  formed  in  the  same 
manner  as,  and  somewhat  resembles,  Corenna's  Dome,  in  the 
Pass  of  El  Ghor. 

As  we  had  seen  so  many  and  such  immense  ones  already, 
this  offered  nothing  strikingly  peculiar,  either  in  appearance 
or  size,  so  we  tramped  along  again  toward  Lake  Purity,  which 
is  the  last  point  of  interest  in  the  route.  It  is  a  pool  of  per- 
fectly transparant  water,  and  is  situated  directly  under  Vul- 
can's Smithy. 

The  Avenues  through  which  we  had  passed,  turned  and 
twisted  so  continually  in  their  directions,  that  now  we  were 
back  again,  about  ten  feet  under  the  point  at  which  we  had 
seen  the  Smithy.  We  sat  down  here  and  enjoyed  a  refreshing 
draught  from  the  cold  waters  of  Lake  Purity. 

About  a  half  a  mile  further  on,  the  Gothic  Arcade  termi- 


200  ADIEU   TO   THE   MAMMOTH   CAVE. 

nates  in  a  dome  and  a  small,  but  picturesque  cascade.  After 
indulging  our  weary  limbs  as  long  as  the  guide  thought  pro- 
per, we  began  the  return. 

It  was  almost  three  o'clock  when  we  reached  the  hotel, 
and  having  ascertained  that  the  stage  was  to  leave  for  Cave 
City  at  four  o'clock,  we  had  just  sufficient  time  left,  to  hastily 
pack  our  traveling  bags  and  take  dinner,  when  the  coach  was 
announced,  and  we  were  off. 

In  concluding  my  remarks  concerning  the  Mammoth 
Cave,  I  would  say  that  there  have  been  over  one  hundred  and 
fifty  avenues,  discovered  ;  many  of  these,  however,  are  never 
entered  by  visitors,  and  consequently,  I  have  not  attempted 
to  describe  them.  There  has  not  been,  for  some  time  past, 
much  enterprise  displayed  on  the  part  of  the  guides  in  extend- 
ing their  explorations,  into  the  remoter  portions  of  the  Cave, 
there  being  now  something  over  a  hundred  linear  miles  which 
are  known  to  them,  this  being  more  than  can  be  displayed  to 
visitors  in  a  single  day. 

The  explored  Cave  is,  we  have  every  reason  to  believe, 
but  a  fraction  of  the  real  one  :  for  the  guides  who  have  certainly 
had  more  experience  than  any  other  persons  in  this  matter,  and 
are,  therefore,  more  capable  of  expressing  a  correct  judgment 
concerning  it,  say  that,  judging  from  the  general  features  of 
the  different  avenues  already  discovered,  and  examining  the 
rock  formation  that,  in  most  instances,  terminates  them,  the 
Cave  must  exceed,  in  reality,  several  times  its  present  dimen- 
sions. 

The  train  was  on  time  at  the  station  so  we  embarked 
with  a  feeling  that  now  indeed  we  were  homeward  bound. 

Three  hours^'  later,  we  alighted  in  Louisville.  Riding 
directly  to  the  Gait  House,  we  obtained  excellent  rooms,  and 
a  hot  supper,  late  as  was  the  hour. 


THE  QUEEN  CITY  OF  THE  WEST.  201 

We  slept  soundly  that  night,  and  rose  on  the  following 
morning,  in  time  to  take  the  seven-fifteen  train  for  Cin- 
cinnati. 

The  road  over  which  we  traveled  for  the  next  five  hours, 
was  very  interesting,  from  its  cultivated  surroundings  and 
luxuriant  growth  of  grains  and  timber,  but  possessed  no 
special  characteristic  to  distinguished  it  particularly  from  any 
other  road  in  the  western  states. 

At  noon  we  reached  the  Queen  City  of  the  West  !  and 
were  hurried  away  to  the  Burnet  House,  which  proved  to 
exceed  in  elegance  of  appointment  and  taste  of  finish,  our 
most  sanguine  expectations. 

After  dinner  we  spent  some  time  in  sauntering  about  the 
city  on  an  inspecting  tour,  but  at  about  four  o'clock,  we  re- 
turned, and,  while  I  adjourned  to  the  parlor  to  write  up  my 
journal,  my  friend  Stapler  ordered  a  carriage,  and  drove  out 
to  Auburn  Hill,  to  call  upon  a  college  acquaintance. 

At  five  P.  M.,  I  left  the  hotel  and  walked  leisurely  from 
one  street  to  another,  visiting  the  different  public  buildings 
and  other  places  of  interest,  until  at  last,  I  found  myself 
seated  in  one  of  the  beautiful  open  squares,  that  are  so 
numerous  in,  and  form  one  the  most  pleasant  features  of,  the 
city. 

Directly  in  front  of  me,  was  an  immense  fountain  with  a 
lake-like  reservoir,  upon  the  brilliant  surface  of  which,  great 
white  swans  floated  in  graceful  curves,  their  spotless  plumage, 
reflected  in  a  thousand  ripples. 

On  the  left  bank  stood  a  rustic  summer-house,  from  which 
the  music  of  some  bright,  operatic  airs  greeted  me  as  I  enter- 
ed this  little  gem  of  a  park.  The  smoothly  mown  lawns  were 
intersected  by  serpentine  walks   and  drives,  which  were  kept 


202  AN  ODD  TIGHT-ROPE  PERFORMANCE. 

in  perfect  order.  Large  trees  lining  these  miniature  avenues, 
cast  a  delightfully  cool  shade  over  the  long  rows  of  wooden 
seats  that  were  arranged  along  either  side.  All  was  rest  and 
quiet. 

I  noticed  many  gayly  dressed  ladies  with  their  frolicsome 
children  seated  over  the  park,  enjoying  this  scene  of  refreshing 
repose.  The  sun  had  set,  and  I  now,  for  the  first  time,  recol- 
lected that  I  had  a  long  walk  before  me,  ere  I  could  reach  the 
hotel ;  so,  with  reluctant  steps,  I  left  the  square  through  a 
gate,  opposite  to  that  by  which  I  had  entered. 

When  I  had  arrived  within  four  blocks  of  the  Burnet 
House,  and  while  crossing  one  of  the  side  streets  that  extend 
along  the  banks  of  the  canal,  I  noticed  a  great  crowd  of  people, 
assembled  to  witness  a  tight  rope  performance.  The  rope  was 
stretched  across  between  the  eaves  of  two,  five-story  houses 
on  opposite  sides  of  the  street.  At  the  time  I  came  along, 
this  prodigy  was  contentedly  cooking  his  supper,  upon  a  small 
kitchen  stove  that  he  dexterously  balanced  before  him.  The 
oddest  feature  of  the  scene  was  the  fact,  that  he  possessed 
but  one  leg,  the  other  having  been  shot  away  just  below  the 
knee.  It  was  wonderful  with  what  skill  he  poised  himself 
while  going  through  various  contortions  and  gymnastic  exhi- 
bitions upon  a  loose  rope-swing  that  dangled  above  the  middle 
of  the  street.  All  this  seemed  to  delight  the  vulgar  populace, 
if  we  are  to  judge  by  their  enthusiastic  plaudits  after  each 
successful  feat.  But  I  did  not  stop  long  to  behold  such  idiotic 
behavior,  but  hurried  back  to  the  hotel,  where  I  found  Stapler 
diligently  hunting  me. 

At  ten  o'clock  P.  M.,  we  stepped  on  board  the  train  that 
was  to  bear  us  to  our  respective  homes  ;  and,  it  was  with  light 
hearts  and  joyous  anticipations,  that  we  lay  down  to  rest  that 
night. 


THE  RIDE  OVER  THE  BALTIMORE  AND  OHIO.  203 

We  awoke  an  hour  before  reaching  Parkersburg  which  is 
situated  on  the  state-line,  dividing  Virginia  and  Ohio,  and  at 
which  place,  we  breakfasted. 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail  Road  is  one  of  the  most 
wonderful  feats  of  engineering  skill  in  the  world.  It  runs 
along  through  the  Blue  Ridge  and  over  the  Alleghanies,  now 
spanning  a  fearful  gorge  by  means  of  a  light  and  narrow  tres- 
sel-work  bridge,  and  now  winding  up  the  steep  side  of  the 
mountain  with  a  grade  of  one  hundred  feet  to  the  mile.  We 
darted  into  a  curved  tunnel  and  out  again  before  we  had  time 
to  realize  that  we  had  entered,  then.in  other  places,  they  were 
a  mile  in  length,  shutting  us  up  in  blackness  and  smoke  for 
several  minutes.  Ours,  being  the  sleeper,  was,  as  is  the  cus- 
tom, the  last  car  on  the  train,  so  that  we  had  the  benefit  of 
every  sharp  curve,  around  which  we  went  jolting  and  swinging 
from  one  side  to  the  other  with  dangerous  rapidity.  I  don't 
think  there  were  five  hundred  yards  of  straight  track  in  the 
whole  distance  from  Parkersburg  to  Baltimore,  except,  per- 
haps, after  passing  the  Relay  House.  This  road  possesses 
more  curves  than  any  other  in  the  country,  the  Pennsylvania 
Central,  not  excepted. 

The  scenery  was  very  beautiful  all  the  way  from  the 
western  bases  of  the  Blue  Ridge  to  Baltimore.  We  caught 
some  magnificent  glimpses  while  winding  over  the  Alleghanies. 
Every  now  and  then  a  sight  of  a  grand  vista  of  mountain- 
ous country  would  open  before  us,  and  perhaps  a  deep  gorge 
would  reveal  a  beautiful  sunlit  valley,  nestling  at  its  base,  or 
while  we  were  crossing  an  elevated  tressel-work  bridge  that 
seemed  as  though  it  were  suspended  between  heaven  and 
earth,  we  could  trace  for  miles  the  course  of  the  sparkling 
stream  that  flowed  far  beneath  us.  It  was  a  grand  exhilarat- 
z 


204  ALONE. 

ing  ride,  but  one  well  calculated  to  inspire  terror  in  those  who 
are,  by  any  means,  prone  to  t'midity. 

It  was  not  until  almost  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  that 
we  stopped  before  the  Relay  House.  Here  it  was,  that  I  was 
compelled  to  bid  adieu  to  my  friend  and  traveling  compan- 
ion— Stapler.  He  left  me  to  embark  on  the  train  for  Wash- 
ington. 

It  was  not  many  moments  before  I  was  whirling  away 
aorain  alone.  Any  one  who  has  not  left  one,  with  whom  he  has 
been  constantly  associated  and,  too,  amid  the  most  novel  and 
exciting  scenes  for  a  number  of  weeks,  cannot  appreciate  the 
feelings  of  loneliness  that  I  experienced  after  I  had  fully 
realized  that  he  had  departed. 

We  steamed  into  the  Monumental  City  and  all  was  noise, 
bustle  and  confusion.  I  immediately  adjourned  to  the  supper 
room  where  I  remained  for  the  next  three  quarters  of  an  hour 
in  perfect  contentment. 

After  thus  refreshing  myself,  I  took  a  long  stroll  over  the 
portion  of  the  city  immediately  surrounding  the  depot,  to  be- 
guile the  tedious  moments  that  must  intervene  before  the 
train  should  leave. 

At  last  I  was  on  board  again,  beginning  my  last  car  ride. 
I  slept  for  a  long  time,  I  know  not  Jiow  long,  but  waking 
with  a  start,  I  found  that  the  train  had  stopped  at  a  station. 
I  determined  to  step  out  upon  the  platform  to  rouse  myself 
I  got  off  the  car  and  wandered  about  through  the  depot  for 
some  time.  All  I  could  see  was  two  solitary  carriages  stand- 
by the  side  of  the  curb.  I  said  to  myself  "They  are  waiting 
for  some  one,  to  take  both  himself,  whoever  he  may  be, 
and  his  trunks."  I  entered  the  train  again  ;  and  and  was  just 
going  back  to  my  seat,  when  a  happy  thought  occured  to  me, 


THE  LAST  ADVENTURE.      HOME  AT  LAST  !  205 

viz  ;  to  ask  the  brakeman  what  station  this  was,  so  I  called, 
"holloa  there!  what  place  is  this,  sir  ?"  ''Wilmington"  he 
replied.  Imagine  my  astonishment.  To  think  of  my  walking 
into  the  depot  and  not  knowing  it.  Imagine  my  looking  up  the 
streets  and  not  recognizing  the  city  of  my  nativity. 

In  a  state  of  sleepy  mortification,  I  seized  my  carpet-bag 
and  overcoat  and  alighted.  On  approaching  the  solitary  ve- 
hicle that  I  had  noticed,  I  recognized  the  familiar  face  of  our 
old  coachman  James,  while  sitting  in  the  other  carriage  was 
Noah,  his  assistant,  ready  to  take  careful  charge  of  my  trunk, 
so  /proved  to  be  that  mysterious  individual,  about  whom  I 
had,  a  moment  before,  speculated  so  dreamily. 

It  was  not  many  more  minutes  before  I  drove  up  the 
long  avenue  and  stopped  before  the  door  of  my  home.  It 
was  now  very  late, — about  two  o'clock,  and  I  had  scarcely 
pulled  the  bell,  when  the  door  was  hastily  opened  and  I  was 
in  the  arms  of  my  sister  and  cousin,  and  was  home  at  last  ! 
What  a  relief  was  this  consciousness  to  one  who  had  been 
traveling  constantly  for  almost  five  weeks  !  There  is  no  ap- 
preciation without  deprivation  ;  I  now  appreciated,  if  never 
before,  the  blessings  of  home. 

It  was  with  a  thankful  heart  for  our  preservation  amid 
the  dangers  which  had  threatened  us  while  absent,  and  our 
happy  reunion  after  both  the  pleasures  and  fatigues  ol  such  a 
summer  tour,  that  I  closed  my  weary  eyes  in  sleep  that  night, 
and,  as  profound  stillness  again  reigns  throughout  the  house, 
let  us  draw  the  curtain  over  this  scene  of  peaceful  repose. 


